In reply to UKC News:
Even without the pegs, the grade of the route wouldn't bump up any higher than E9, as the natural protection is adequate, if very hard to place on lead.
This statement doesn't make sense to me. Surely on a route where the kit is very hard to place this influences the grade? Wouldn't it be better to wait for an onsight or at least a few more ascents before making this type of comment?