In reply to biscuit: Henry didn't "yo yo" if he fell or failed on a climb he pulled the rope down through what ever runners he had placed on lead (hex's and stoppers in those days)and as far as I have heard rarely took more than a couple of attempts to either succeed or back off, taking his kit with him, leaving the crag clean and the route for a better man or day.
"yo yoing" is to lower off on the rope after a fall, leave the rope in place and then use it to regain the high point before continuing on,in an up and down fashion like you guessed it a "yo yo"!
"yoing" and "hang dogging"(where one simply hangs on the rope at the failure point before continuing) are so similar as to be only marginally distinguishable from each other, both diminish the achievement of the ascent as they use the protection equipment for aid to achieve the ascent even if it is only to gain beta, as do abseil inspection and top rope practice.
On any route, any grade, sport or trad (Other than unroped soloing) ground up, on sight, first go is the style that offers the most challenging scenario for any would be ascentionist ,anything else uses the equipment to make up for lack of ability or stamina, it seems strange to make climbing a route easier in order to achieve a higher numerical grades in ever decreasing increments.
There are thousands of climbing challenges in the uk alone, enough to satisfy the number of outdoor climbers operating at all levels in the Uk , it's just that some of them require a level of commitment some people do not wish to take on board this doesn't give them the right to leave their equipment strewn all over at what are often places of outstanding scenic or cultural value.
If we all do damage the environment for our own selfish pleasure (or self promotion) perhaps it's time this sector of society (climbers) that in general likes to think of itself as being conservationist and protective to wild places, had a rethink about the effects of it's actual activities and started to tread more gently on the earth.