In reply to jonnie3430:
Hi Jonnie3430, weight distribution and body composition is a major topic im working to address in my quest to improve my climbing. So in a round about way here is my advice.
So my stats:
Height: 192cm/6ft,4in
Weight: 90kg/14 stone
Best Annecdotal Advice:
Said by Carlo Traversi - "After training or climbing grade your performance based on your own expectations, only afterwards then weigh yourself - I often found that my weight didnt matter that much"
Training Advice:
I once performed weeks worth of eating salads and doing cardio to get my body fat down but the weight would not shift. After getting various measurements done it turned out I was 9% body fat so the return on investment of effort to drop 1% body fat would only yield 900grams.
-Go get your body fat measured
-If you pay up for the all single/dancing version bioelectric impedance type measurements they should calculate your basal metabolic rate (BMR).
BMR will tell you how many calories you need to simply exist per day if you did nothing. This helps plan how much you can eat and when combined with excercise helps you plan either a deficit, to maintain or to put on weight. Bear in mind your body is not like a calculator in that 1+2=3, these values are just a guide and should not replace common sense and a healthy balanced diet.
Now you have two choices. To ditch the excess body fat or if like me its a waste of time, train explosive power to get the most out of the muscle you have rather than accrue any more.
In simple terms of a pull ups, keep the reps per set low i.e 3 reps and keep the sets low i.e 3 and only perform this 2-3 times a week or less. Keep the recovery time between sets long i.e 10mins. This reps/sets ratio training protocol is adopted by similar strength to weight ratio sports like MMA fighters.
You are looking for all out effort so if body weight is too easy, the. Add weight.
I have had good results with this and have recently switched to a slightly different version of increasing the reps to 6 per set with the following profile.
1 x max added weight,
2 x half max added weight
3 x quarter max added weight.
So for me its:60kg, 30kg, 15kg
All the weights are set on slings so i can drop off the bar quickly, ditch the weight and carry on.
For fingers, google Eva Lopez maximum added weight, minimum edge width training protocol. Again this is the only evidence based finger training protocol available. Most training regimes are annecdotal and should be approached with caution.
For shoulders, google I's, Y's & T's performed on TRX or rings. You can perform these face down for compression strength or face up for shoulder stability.
Being heavy doesn't mean you cant climb high grades, im currently comfortable at 7C+ in a session, my other half who is 5ft2 and weighs around 67kg currently holds her own at 7A (although she can climb much harder when she tries!!)
Good luck with your quest, the guys and girls on here have posted some other interesting options which are also worth exploring.