In reply to Connor Dickinson: I have noticed exactly the same injury when I came back from a trip to font. I was there before I went I think but can't remember exactly when it came on. I reckon it must have been upping the training recently. Likely the result of crimping? Anyway crimping feels sore whereas openhand feels ok.
I tried to train hard (steep board and fingerboard) open-handed but noticed that after the session it was worse so this week I have decided to dial it back and continue to boulder indoors on easier problems. for the last 2-3 sessions, I have spent them trying to tick as many problems as possible over a 1.5-2hr period - usually ends up being 25ish. I aim for problems that are easy all the way to ones that I can just about flash or slightly harder.
...oh and don't crimp anything on the offending hand.
I think that the icing/Lewis reaction that Dave is talking about might help as when you do it, your hand looks red implying more blood flow. This is why these injuries talk so long to heal as there isn't much blood flowing to your fingers. I find it difficult to get 30mins in the day where I can sit still and keep my hand in the ice water though.
What I need is a safe way of training crimps as I am weaker on this grip. Any ideas? Dave suggests climbing steep crimpey problems but I am inclined to use the beastmaker?