UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_857-7630...

An early post - trying to make up for recent week's of late ones!  Anyway, it is my last for a while, so wanted to be on schedule.

Another week with lots of chat across the channel, so we reached 50 posts and nearly 800 views, which probably indicates either some lurkers in the background or some serious obsessives across our little group.  I know which one my wife will be betting on, so she (at least) is relieved that I am taking a break from statting!

Tyler:  That’s quite a day on Wednesday – Dolmen and Bristly Ridges followed by an LPT session.  Plenty of adventure up in the hills followed by messing about on sport – very impressive.  I drove through Ogwen on Thursday evening and the ridges looked fantastic in the evening sun, so I have put them on my list.  Oddly enough, it was the day of the Tryfan descent race.

Good to see that you’ve got to Forwyn, also a place that has been on my must visit list for ever.  Nearly got there a few weeks back, but weather intervened.  Great to see you overcome whatever negative thoughts and get The Groan done – not sure I had particularly noticed this in scanning the guide, but it sounds like a pretty good target.

Further excellent work at the Diamond with Rub-a-Dub-Dub, which sounds thoroughly excellent, as do most things on the crag.  Clearly a top-class destination, though probably needs some local knowledge before initiation.  It also needs some proper fitness for much of the stuff on offer!

Somerset Swede Basher:  Wow!  That is one end of the country to the other in a few days, so a Mick Fowler-esque tour in terms of travelling distances and lack of sleep.  To follow the long drive with the walk-in and the very early start is an impressive bit of logistics.  On top of the planning, completing the traverse demonstrates considerable fitness and decent speed, especially with the add-ons that you’ve done – really stunning and no doubt will be a lifetime memory.  I have a mate who keeps mentioning the Cuillin Ridge, so I guess it will creep up my agenda next year.  Can old people expect to make it?!

Good to see that Heart of the Sun is still do-able – I think at one stage it was regarded as too loose to be worthwhile, but I think the line has changed a bit since.  Minus points for going all the way down there without suitable shoes though (that said, I once walked into Idwal slabs in school shoes as I’d forgotten anything suitable…).

You’ve certainly had an interesting summer travelling about and ticking off things from coastal walks to ticklist routes.  Still plenty of season to go locally if the weather manages to perk up at all.

AlanLittle:  I like the opportunistic goal setting which is the sort of ploy I might need for this year’s write up at this rate!  Ignore all the actual goals, but throw in some new ones based on where I happen to end up.  See this week’s report for a fine example of this creativity being practiced!  Actually, taking proper advantage of a family get-together has to be admired, especially as Norfolk is not on Scotland’s doorstep.

Still delivering some consistent wall sessions with some good lead performances.  That said, the first week for a while where the project hasn’t featured some incremental progress, though conditions don’t sound particularly helpful for that sort of thing.  It does sound like Germany has been suffering an unusual spell of weather that goes all the way back to Randy’s Spring trip to Frankenjura.

A lot of time on the bike including the MTB in the woods meant five days with some time in the saddle.  Given that some of these end up being a couple of hours, the cycling fitness must be strong by now.  I’ve never really done much on bikes, though I’ve pottered, so I don’t have much appreciation of what it takes to cycle for a couple of hours these days.  Perhaps something to put on the winter programme.?

Inglesp:  Your reaction to the Peak isn’t at all unusual, especially if your apprenticeship has been mainly on the Wye Valley limestone.  Grit is a different ball game and it can feel pretty alien if not practiced for a while!  I think Peak lime would probably feel similarly difficult in places, as the Wye Valley often has fairly featured rock by comparison and places like Shorncliff are slabby as well in any parts.  Anyway, an ‘educational weekend’ has always got to be worthwhile and visiting Millstone and Stanage has to be a rewarding pair of places to get on your CV.  Most people would want to build up their jamming skills gradually, rather than straight onto Bond Street, but kudos for going for it anyway!

Ross Barker:  Of course, Pigeon’s Cave has more than just the DWS – I’d forgotten that when commenting.  I agree that NWL is often pretty fingery in style, so interesting to hear that things are different down by the water.  I’ve yet to venture down to the sea-level stuff anywhere out there as I seem to have plenty to do higher up the hillsides at the moment.

Some changes in your hangs going on this week with the weighted repeaters making an appearance with aims to move the weight up gradually, though I note that you went up a fair bit on your second session!  I think your ‘regeneration’ sets are with assistance IIRC – I’m assuming so as 15 sets is monstrous otherwise.

Interesting seeing your persistence with DWS – obviously something that you want to do, but are struggling to get comfortable enough with to get going on your goals.  I can imagine it being great on a day where the water is (almost) the more attractive option, but I’d struggle if conditions were at all sub-par.  I don’t fall off much anyway, mainly because I don’t like the strong sense of disappointment, so a sport where much of the point is falling off seems odd to me.  Different strokes and all that.

Tom Green:   I think me giving out passes is a bit like Liz Truss giving out gongs in that it may be rescinded by the next incumbent…!  My judgement was simple – a bigger day than most that I’ve done in recent years.

I think the effect of tiredness should not be underestimated.  I’ve had several weeks where I have had a Thursday afternoon session after a morning of early start, drive, work and then head for crag.  I’ve definitely noticed that I’ve felt tired from the get go and also a bit distracted by thinking through work issues.  I’ve recalibrated my ambitions and got through anyway, but it clearly has an impact.

Great to make the effort for Esk Buttress as it is a fair step up there and conditions haven’t been that brilliant.  I’ve only been once, despite being at Lancaster Uni and living in the Lakes for three years!  Red Edge is a fine route though and I thought Central Pillar was also fantastic – my mate was keen on doing it, but it was better than I expected really.  You certainly tried to pack it in by transferring around to Wales – itself a fairly wearing journey, before making a surprising choice to go to a crag with a reputation for being all round hard work!  Almost every route description I read seems to include the note ‘top of the grade’.  Looks to be plenty of good stuff to do, but not a relaxing type of venue.

Randy:  yes – a very similar week!  Still, exactly what is needed if you are trying to set a base.  At least you are now getting rest every other day as a minimum, which is very different from a few weeks back.

The archer pull ups are stepping up this week, so some immediate progress with these, though I note that you are finding these hard.  They definitely do load one arm much more significantly, so it shouldn’t be surprising I suppose - it would be quite interesting to know what percentage load is on each arm with things like this.  After all, although there is quite a lot of assistance from the other arm, you have also pushed the reps quite high.  Steady away with the fingerboard repeaters and the push ups – some good volume being achieved here and they do have good antagonistic benefits.

Great to see that the foot injury continues to improve, although slowly!  It doesn’t look like you will be doing much running for a while, which is a pity as you were putting together some fantastic times and distances.

Ian Parnell:  Yes, I think you are showing the way with using the bouldering wall to good effect on a regular basis.  I did a few sessions a couple of winters back and found it quite enjoyable – more so than the lead walls – so I think I could get back to it with a more structured approach and a commitment to use the other facilities.  I like the approach you’ve taken from Ally’s posts to set targets and try to deliver aero-cap sessions.

What finger block are you using for your hangs?  I am planning to extend the variety of things I’m using, but there are a lot to choose from so wondered if any particular things came with recommendations?  Anyway, you are making decent progress with this particular tool as those are fairly significant one-hand loads.  I had read recently that these train the fingers better than hangs.

The one-day NW hit looks like an act of desperation from here – perhaps not surprising really.  Like others have commented, the Wendigo top-rope sounds like a fairly odd choice – surely something like Anarchist might have been an easier way to check things out?  The flake breaking sounds pretty scary and it going through a sling is a reminder of how things can get bad quite quickly.  Heading for multi-pitch slate in ‘constant, light rain showers’ also seems to have missed one of slate’s most notable qualities (lack of friction when damp), but the persistence has to be admired.  I suppose not much else would have stood a chance of drying anyway?

Decisions aside, putting it out there on Short Stories adds another legend to the ‘What would Ian do?’ mantra that fit club relies on so heavily.  Good work for getting on it and trying hard, in circumstances when many of us would have retreated to the caff (as AJM noted).  As ever, your determination shines through!

Ally Smith:  It seems as if you have been shaking off illness for quite some time, so hope you are finally back to something like full fitness?  Not that this is actually apparent in the outputs each week!

Interesting reflections on the board grade variations, though I suppose some of it is down to each person’s particular attributes?  Anyway, as a training facility, I guess the grading is only part of the point as long as the workout is delivering improvements?

The outside session is the first for a while so great to see that you got on a Nick Dixon special.  I had heard of Grinshill, but had no appreciation of how much stuff there was there – including bouldering and routes.  Quite a lot of stars spread throughout as well.  Sounded like a productive Dugout session as well – is the return match planned around family Christmas visits?  The three-move thing sounds extremely difficult if you invested all that time in without a full result.  It struck me that I haven’t bouldered at all now for years, so working at something that intensely is out of my experience these days.  I can remember the satisfaction of finally cracking something though!

AJM:  Good to hear that the experiment with sleepers went well.  I imagine that kids would be initially quite excited at the idea, but eventually it could become routine and make Euro destinations possible.  Anyway, the holiday sounded like a fantastic mix of stuff with a good balance of activity, sight-seeing and entertainment for kids.

Goat Crag looks like it has loads to go at, so not surprising that you were drawn in.  Your recounting of the day reminded me of the million times a similar episode has happened to me, so entertaining to read!   Doing Stac Pollaidh is fantastic and will no doubt be a memory for them, as will dolphins, seals and the like.  When you get chance, re-read your report and remind yourselves of what you managed to get through!  It reminded me that we eventually settled on a system of everyone having something they wanted to achieve each day (holiday rules so could be anything in scope).  This sometimes meant a roadside route snatched on the way to a ridge walk, followed by a dash to the beach for a sunset swim in the sea, then a favourite restaurant for food.  My (now very much adult) kids still talk about some of these mad dash days, so it definitely makes memories.

The Sheep:  Ah, the rugby is a feature that I don’t think I’d seen before (possibly my memory though) and the patio laying would likely have done it by itself anyway!  That bit, I do remember as we were both on it at similar times.

Your week went really well in terms of putting together plenty of progression in the pool and on the runs.  The distances are going up and describing things as a ‘really lovely 12k run’ shows that you are settling into the distances well.  You’re right, I should be able to step things up over Autumn as I am hoping to keep my work on a part-time basis for the rest of my career now, so I’m also looking forward to stretching my distances a bit.

Interesting to see the sprints appearing in the pool session – a bit of a change of emphasis and probably good to get the different stimulus going.  Not long to go until your next event, so keep the schedule ticking onwards.

Small Step:  In terms of getting out more, the biggest factor for me was having a good network of people to get out with regularly, along with recognising that the getting out was more important than what was actually achieved.  In the past I‘d be disappointed if I didn’t get on some target, but I’ve got much happier with just going with the flow.  As to breaking out of patterns – I guess that is something we all have to deal with at times and the steps are fairly basic usually – identify what you want to do, work out what is in the way, see if it can be adjusted.  I have spent years not getting on things, because I wasn’t sure I was ready.  I ended up walking away a lot.  I’m too old for that now!  I’ve managed to persuade myself that (looking back) I’m not happier for leaving things for another day, so I’ve adjusted my thinking to give myself credit for trying.  Turns out I’m often successful…

Although a quiet week (remember, it’s a deload) you’ve managed to keep a routine going, which is a success at this stage of the season.  Plenty of time on the hangboard, lots of stretching, pull ups and some core work isn’t a bad return for ‘quiet’ – I wish I was that productive at the moment!  The walk also sounds idyllic, so an excellent way to round things off.

Amazing to see a plastic-free week!  Only Alan holding things together on the plastic for Germany this week.

SteveJC94:  Understandably not a lot of training reported, but good to see that the signs are positive with the injury recovery.  Although it sounded pretty horrific on the first report (and looked pretty grim), you must be encouraged by the early assessments that you’ve had?  Hopefully, you can get some good advice from a specialist and start some gentle rehab soon, though I expect it might mean giving the injury repair time first?  You can always use a block and do finger exercises on the other hand (or indeed the other fingers) to keep some maintenance going.

Presumably, you’d be okay on the bike at an earlier stage anyway?  Not too late for that 100 miler.  I can always drive meat wagon if needed!

Steve Claw:  An interesting assessment of where Heart of the Sun sits in the grade spectrum.  It used to be quite a popular target until the rockfalls affected the start, but I hadn’t heard that it was back on the radar with an equipped descent.  Anyway, it sounds like a really good adventure route.  I must get back down to Baggy and the Culm next year!

Good work finding and sorting out the new routes and nice work getting Critic’s Choice done – it looks pretty challenging from the photos on UKC.  It also looks bold, so hope that getting it wrong at the top didn’t have serious consequences!  Amazing to be finding new stuff at Avon in such numbers.  I think we will all be of one voice that ‘hard tech 6b’ with big airtime is likely to be a minimum of E6 and quite possibly more! 

Mattrm:  Is away in Orkney or some-such far-flung corner of the globe…  However, I got in at sometime after 1 am last night and he had posted, which impressed me as he had said training was unlikely…

Good work getting the Monday run in before heading off later in the week – great to get another 5k in the bag.  These are getting a more consistent feature of each weekly report, though possibly going to have an enforced rest week as it sounds as if Orkney isn’t much of a running paradise – this surprised me really.  Getting good sleep is probably what holidays should deliver – I guess the place is also fairly quiet?  Anyway, enjoy the break and hopefully get some tick over stuff done.

Biscuit:  I did enjoy Barbie!  Lots of really interesting qualities in the film.  We were slightly disappointed that the cinema was not a sea of pink though – just our party of four…

I hope I’ve not missed it, but nothing in from you this week (857) – I’ve trawled back to 856 to check whether you were planning to be away, but nothing obvious.  Hope all good?

My week was pretty poor in terms of training, but probably with good reason.

Away last weekend with friends in Kirkby Lonsdale.  Managed to get a short run done, but turned back when the heaven's opened.  Just under 3 km.

Mon - nothing after travelling back.

Tues - got out locally-ish.  Went to the National Stone Centre for a change of scene and slightly better weather prospects.  Climbed on four separate crags across the day, so an interesting exploration.  Warm up route had a star, but not worthy of such an accolade, even allowing for 'quarry star' ratings.  Went thrashing through undergrowth in search of Coal's Hill Crag and found some very off-putting bits, before it finally revealed itself in all it's glory.  Considered not bothering, but I picked a line Forum Bellends (6b)and it was surprisingly reasonable - better than it looked.  Followed it with Den of Iniquity (6b), by which time we had decided that it would be worth a return visit.  It just need traffic and conditions were slightly damp.  A couple of the other things look quite good.  Both these were substantially better than the warm up, so easily worth a quarry star.

Headed into North-East, which also looks off-putting, but which has some attractive walls at the bottom end.  Did Frustration (6a+)The Scarlet Thread (6b+) and Turning Swords into Ploughshares (6b), all of which were genuinely good and surrounded by more blackberries than you could shake a stick at...  Someone has logged Scarlet Thread as 'a four star classic', which isn't as mad as it seems (bearing in mind this is a Peak District quarry).  Nipped into Colehill for two others on the way back to the car.

Despite having had several weeks of reduced training load and only one day out climbing anything, I'm managing to maintain something approaching a standard.  I enjoyed the Stone Centre and will definitely return for others that we missed.

Wed - Fri Childminding in Penmachno.  A couple of walks (6.5 miles), but ragged after a day in Green Wood Activity Park with three under nines.  Water slide good though.

Saturday - no longer had a small child on repeat with 'Grandpa, can I...?  Chose to do not much.

The weird thing about Dolmen Ridge (and presumably the other two hereabouts) is that it doesn’t look like anything from below, just a broken grassy face, but it deserves to be on any list. 

It’s underrated as in the last guide it was still completely covered in ivy but is a classic, similar in many ways to the Scoop at Stoney if you’ve done that although the crag itself is more reminiscent of Chee Tor

Yes pleased with that and notice it’s been upgraded to 7a+ in the guide but it’s not compared to other stuff on the Orme.

Much quieter week this week:

W: A quick visit to Tryfan Bach with Fi before the rain. Another new venue and another belter of its type plus one off my scrambles list. 
Evening Beacon where I tried on some hard routes until my skin hurt. No successes but I genuinely think I’ll be going into this winter (so depressing to be thinking like that) in better shape than last year. 
S: Weather better than forecast but decided to go on the auto belays in the Beacon in a rare moment of self discipline. Did better than usual but that’s because I was able to take longer rests. I managed 2 each of 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 7a and also fell off the last move of the 7a+ twice. Bouldering wasn’t really successful (no new V5). I’m glad I had a big session (I need more of this) but worried I might have overcooked it as I’m hoping to go to the Diamond on Monday. 
No new injuries to report and I’ve started leg rehab. 

I would guess the leading arm takes around 60-70% of the load, based on the number of reps that i can do. Also not sure how much tougher they really are then normal pullups, as you alternate between each arm. So 12 reps feel actually more like 2x6, and i doubt that could much more reps if i do normal ones (maybe 2-4 reps more.)
Recap last week:

Mon: Rest

Tues: Archer Pullups: 3x12,10 with 3 min rest, Fingerboard repeaters: 6x6x7,3 at 95% BW on 20mm egde, 50 Pushups 

Wed: Rest

Thurs: 4x12 with 3 min rest, Fingerboard repeaters: 6x6x7,3 at 95% BW on 20mm egde, 50 Pushups 

Fri: Rest

Sat: Rest

Sun: Assisted One-Arm-Lockoffs: 92,5% BW: 150°: 15s with right arm, 20s with left arm; 95% BW: 120°: right: 13s; left: 15s; 90°: right: 18s, left: 15s; 45°; right: 9s, left: 6s; 6x6x7,3 at 97,5% BW on 20mm egde, 40 Pushups 

Another rather quit week, but with some steady progress on the pullups. I think i've set a good base there again and can now switch to some specific training for the one armers in the next weeks. Pushups also progressing nicely. I am currently not pushing them to absolute maximum when i am doing them at the end of the session with an already wasted shoulder. Hence, i guess i could knock out 60-70 reps if i would do them rested and it would be a decent winter challenge to to shoot for 100 reps.

Thanks Derek for your very prompt stats. I use a wooden Lattice training block which has a variety of edges and pinch grips. Its pretty expensive for what it is and I think they've replaced it with something else now (metal?). However it would be very easy and very cheap to make something with a 20mm edge on. I think alongside your comments about my desperation and determination I think delusion would be a good addition!

Mon – Quick visit to Pleasley Vale, a new venue for me. Really quite good as a training venue, with lots of steep boulder probs in the 6s, some pumpy traversing and flat landings softened by cowpats. Did Frog Buttress Traverse (V1), Bulge (f6A+), Spark plug (V3) and Monk's Wall Start (f6A).  

Tues – 12 mile run on Monsal Trail in 1hr 45mins  

Wed – Foot on campus board 65 secs rest, 65, 65, 65, 63, 50, 41, 40 (389 secs total (391 total week prev)

Thursday – Density lifts 30 secs 2 mins rest 2.5kg, 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 17.5, 20, 20, 20

Friday – 3.5 mile plod round woods

Saturday - Nothing. Visiting my folks in Swindon

Sunday – Churnet bouldering. Enjoyable few hours wandering around different blocks in Farley Woods, most of which I’d visited during my only previous bouldering phase 10? Years ago. Twisted Traverse (f6A+), Amazing Tree Crack (f6A+), The Mastaba (f6A) and The Sphinx Traverse (f6A). Then got thoroughly lost for about an hour in overhead bracken trying and failing to find any of the Grasshopper Ridge blocks.  

Reflection - Frustrating not to be able to get on some routes today, I had a partner lined up until 7am this morning. Still enjoyed my two bouldering afternoons – kept me sane. Pleased to get The Amazing Tree Crack as I’d failed on that almost a decade ago.

Thank you Derek,

Quieter week as away on family holiday, but did get a day out before I left.

M - Cleaned and shunted a thin crimpy 15m 7b.  All unused sharp holds, and 2nd day on that sort of thing, so finger skin was all gone. 

T-S Away on Holiday - Did take the children out for a days top roping at Trewavas Head.

Thanks for the excellent statting Derek.  Going to miss your great stats.  Enjoy the break!

Weight - 12st 6lbs

STG - 15k a week by mid-September

MTG - 10k 1 hour

LTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24) and 86 mile (Sept 24)

M - Rest

T - 1h Bouldering

W - Rest

T - Stretches and core

F - S - Rest

S - 6.5k run and 10k walk

Weekly milage - 6.5k

Pretty good week all in.  As it's actually quicker to get to the bouldering 'cave' in the local leisure center here, then it is to get to the wall at home, I've been bouldering.  Managed to get a run in today, which was probably over the 6.5k recorded.  But I can't quite figure out where I went, so just putting in a conservative estimate.  Should manage to get a bit of running in next week, not sure how much but it should be something. 

Hi All. Congratulations on reaching the end of a mega-stint with the stats, Derek. I think we've all benefitted from your enthusiasm, insights and questions. A big thank you for all the graft.

Week 34:

A good week, with most planned sessions completed, although a bit too much eating and drinking.

M: Strength. Fingerboard and upper body.

T: Trail run and climb. 23.2km, 564m vert, 6:05/km. Although the run was actually broken in to sections as I stopped for a quick solo on three different crags: Fifteen Love (VD) at Ingelby Incline (topped out on to an adder), Long Bow (VS 4c) at Park Nab, and Zigzag (none 4c) at Captain Cooks. Fab evening.

W: Climbing at  Trollers. Back on The Jim Grin (7a) with little expectation, and then found myself at the last move on my first tie-in... only to not be able to keep hold of the last sidepull that you clip the chains from! Heart breaker, but actually pleased with my climbing. I've worked out better beta for the top now, so hopefully will go next visit.

T: Prehab.

F: Prehab.

S: Trail and road run. 21.5km, 168m vert, 6:10/km. Included some horribly sapping running over steep sand dunes -surely the most specific training for soft snow slopes you can find in summer?! Swim (about 300m -not far for the Sheep and SSB, but enough for a land mammal like me!)

S: Strength. Fingerboard, upper body, core.

Week 35:

M: Core. Prehab.

T: Run.

W: Rest.

T: Climbing.

F: Climbing.

S: Climbing.

S: Run.

STG (end Sept):

3 off big mountain day list (1/3)

Average twice weekly finger boarding. (currently 1.5)

5+ off Lundy hit list.

MTG (end Dec):

Hidden Dragon or White Wall (Masson, not Millstone!)

100m D6/7 in a session.

110 days climbing for the year.

1000 km running (and 40km vertical) for the year.

LTG (end March):

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1+ of Alpine Winter list.

Thanks for your long and detailed stats run Derek, a high bar has been set. In my enthusiasm to write about the Skye trip I forgot to answer your about DWS on the south coast. I didn't take my rock boots on the walk as it was more about spending time with Mrs. Swede and I didn't want her to feel that there was a time pressure to get to the end of the walk each day so that I could do some climbing. This week:

Mon. Rest 

Tues. 6 sets of repeaters at body weight and 3x10 press ups. All felt quite hard but I've not done any bouldering recently and all the climbing has been trad so not really a surprise that fingers are a bit low on strength at the mo.

Wed. Kids requested a boulder and a park so we had a play on the  Ponderosa Boulder where I did about 20 problems up to 6A+ with the kids. 8km run round Burbage in the evening.

Thurs. 11km steady cycle with the kids.

Fri. 8km cycle (into town and back to sort some jobs).

Sat. Drive south and family walk on the Quantock hills for a few hrs.

Sun. Swanage with AJM. Shared leads on Oceanid (E2 5b) and then Tudor Rose (E2 5b). Mostly managed to dodge the showers.

Cheers Derek, and thanks for a lengthy stint at the helm. Your encouragement has kept us on the straight and narrow for several months now and having done a stint last year I know it can be tricky to produce meaningful posts each week - something you’ve managed in abundance!

Still in a world of it with the house move but managed one testing session this week. The 3 weeks off has had minimal effect on my strength and tweaks feel noticeably recovered. Probably got another week of faff before I can get back in to some sort of routine.

Tuesday

• OA Hangs 20mm 6x 5s 4FD working up to (88%BW)
• Standing Ab Wheel Rollouts (negatives) 3x 3
• Straight Arm Hanging Wipers 3x 10 (+3kg of Ankle Weight)
• 40deg Woody. Repeated my 7A Project so haven’t lost anything, but still couldn’t do the 7A+.
• OA Lockoffs 3x 6s (90%BW). Lost 5% but my form was getting poor anyway so probably a good time to reduce the intensity and get strict.

It was a great trip. I figured with the sleeper even if it isn't the best nights sleep it's still easier than keeping them entertained on day trains for the same length of trip!

Yes, Stac Pollaidh and dolphins have come up in conversation several times since we got back! Hopefully we might be able to get them on another hill before the winter, try to lock in the hillwalking thing a bit further.

Thanks Derek, for this and all your other statting.

A bit of a transition week this week. Sleeper back on Monday and then working from my parents place on Tuesday and Wednesday. Wednesday night I got the train home after work, Thursday in the office again, Friday working at home. The rest of the family arrived back on Friday so Friday night and Saturday were taken up with post holiday admin.

So basically the only real climbing I did this week was on Sunday with SSB. Went down to guillemot and did Oceanid (E2 5b) and Tudor Rose (E2 5b). I led the easier pitches on both, although the second pitch on Tudor rose is probably still amongst the harder things I've led this year.

I was ok seconding both the harder pitches but had I been on lead I think a lack of that deep trad endurance base (for fiddling gear, testing holds etc) and the practice at questing onwards (Swanage is very like that, you've got to be comfy just pushing onwards, not the place for the hesitant climber) would have caused some issues. Which is fine, I think I've only done E2 at Swanage when I've been going fairly well elsewhere, ots never been somewhere I got fully into the swing of, and that's far from where I am at the moment.

Two good routes done, some more trad, a day by the sea - who could complain! SSB was making noises about Warlord, so who knows, maybe opportunities for more in future...

Looking ahead, I have tomorrow off with miniAJM, and hopefully there will be dws at the weekend. I also need to get back into the groove with rehab, I wasn't too bad at doing the therabands bit whilst we were away but didn't really have the ability to do the rest.

Good tickage (both of you). What are your running totals for each of the books now? 

It had passed me by that this was the end of your stint, thanks very much for all the effort you’ve put in. You’ve definitely raised the bar but hopefully the next person along doesn’t feel they have to clear it. 

You probably meant SSB really, but I'll use it as an opportunity to mention that today I found that I'm a quarter of the way through the original SW Climbs tick list.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/south_west_climbs_-_pat_little...

I was quite happy with that.

Otherwise, about 20% of hard rock (varies which edition) and 6% of extreme rock.

I like talking tick lists with anyone!

That a a really good effort, I’m always disappointed at how little of my lists I’ve ticked and 25% of a bit list takes some doing, especially as there are no sport routes. 

I was reminded how much mid range stuff SWC has in it as well - I could probably do half as many routes again just from stuff at about VS/HVS and below that gets decent stars, plus a bit more from leading good stuff that I've only previously seconded and a bit more again if I went a bit lower quality or obscure on the easy stuff. So potentially half way before I had to climb E1+ again (not that that's the aim mind you!)

I’d say seconding counts but not top ropes!

If I get to the point where all that stands between me and completion is a few seconds, I'll have done Antiworlds, Darkinbad and Il Duce, together with half a dozen decent E4s and umpteen E3s and will consider my options then

A fine end to a magnificent statting stint Derek. Family holiday / deload week for me. Knoydart is actually kind of a lifetime goal: I've always regretted never having made it there.

STG: Tranter Round (not sub-24!)and/or Knoydart Munros
MTG: Autumn '23 tick my first 7a in two years, and/or somthing from my (long) local 6c+ projects list
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: 
T: No time for the wall due to winding up work stuff pre-holiday. Did make it out for an hour in the woods on the bike in the evening when temperatures became tolerable, and did some tindeq pulls afterwards.
W: 
T - S: Post-pandemic family reunion in Norfolk. Lots of food & drink; some saltmarsh and pinewood walks.

Evening all, and excellent round off to the stats stint, Derek. Is it now my turn for the next couple months then?

It is a decent increase, but I think as I was starting at bodyweight I had a decent way to go before I hit my limit, so even bumping up 2.5kg a time, I'd still take a fair few sessions before I get there. I'll also stop increasing once I hit a weight that feels too intense on the recovering finger, but I've not hit that yet - hopefully it gets difficult before it gets painful!

Oh it's just picking up off the floor, super light stuff. If it was bodyweight I'd probably have died!

Yeah, it's a bit annoying. I think my "spicy" experience in Pembroke last month had affected my mental state more than I'd anticipated or truly appreciated. Even in a situation which is objectively safe (as much as can be, or course), and with other people who'd fallen in and exited no problem, I found it too difficult to even get into the water in control, never mind falling off something. It's pretty annoying and has been a source of self-loathing recently.

I'd like to have made some sort of improvement on it with a potential Portland trip next week, and potentially other trips next month too, but I imagine it's the sort of thing that might end up being made worse by rushing it. Might just have to let it go until next summer, but I'll at least keep trying what I can until it gets too cold.

Nonetheless, a good week from me. General good board scenes, and returned to the Dugout and dispatched an elusive (to me) link.

Last Week:

M - AM very light hangs. Sore neck and shoulders. Not sure if it was the cave or if I slept funny!

T - BW+7.5kg 5x7s hangs on 20mm, followed by Moonboard. Couple of benchmarks, 359 of 548 remain! May have been a little on the intense side, but the finger felt decent on the whole.

W - AM and PM very light hangs.

T - Weigh-in at 78.1kg. AM very light hangs. PM The Dug Out. Sussed the most reliable beta for Doug's Face (f6C), a bit steadier than the other three sequences. Utter bogey! Linked a section into it, thus finally completing Spade Face (f7A). Had a fondle of Sub Moron (f7C+) with Ally's left hand beta, and got to the same dead-end point where you need to release the RH but doing so would cause an instant backsplat! Really good catch-up with a mate, enjoyed myself.

F - AM very light hangs.

S - Rest.

S - Rest.

M - Rained off at The Roaches, ended up at Awesome Walls Stoke. Generally just loads of flash mileage, really enjoyed the setting. Had a play on the 2019 Moonboard set as well (local wall has 2016) and boshed out 8 problems around 6A+ or so. Finger felt quite good even doing some decent crimping, which I'm happy with.

Next Week:

T - Rest.

W - Climbing.

T - Rest.

F, S, S - Climbing?

Goals:

Rehab A2.

Restore DWS head game.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Work on PE.

Oberth Effect Proj.

Cheers, I've been using the ticklists on UKC as my yardstick which I think includes some routes that are mentioned rather than specifically titled in the books so some of the totals might seem a bit high. I've also been using the original first edition listings rather than newer ones where some extra routes have been added in. My goals have been to do all of classic rock, English and Welsh hard rock although I'd love to get the Scotland ones done too and with extreme rock I'm thinking all of Peak and Pennine (I'm happy to toprope the ones I'm too chicken to lead but it would be good to at least have done them clean e.g. Beau Geast) and else where up to E3.

Running totals:

Classic rock 38/83. All of Peak and Pennine done. SW just needs a day at chair ladder. Probably only one soloable one left in Wales so I'll need some easy trad days, similar lakes. Only done the Cuillin Ridge in Scotland.

Hard rock 21/61. All of Peak and Pennine done. SW just needs a day at chair ladder again. Lots to go at in Wales and lakes, all of Scotland to play with.

Extreme Rock 29/180. Plenty to go at everywhere but locally it's all E4+ so I'll need to get my big boy pants on for those. Still a couple of E3s to go at in Yorkshire. Plenty of E1-3 stuff around the country which generally sits in the fun zone rather than the terrified zone. I always drew my line at E6 or harder and 6b or harder (upped to 6c when I got better) justified a toproping first. Might have to have a more flexible approach for some of the local ones without much gear but maybe a happy middle ground of an abseil inspection before a flash go might bridge the gap between the stuff I'm willing to attempt onsight and things I'm totally cool with a headpoint (e.g. Green Death).

Can't resist a tick list ha ha. Classic Rock 27/83, Hard Rock (the definitive 2020 version of course ) 39/69, Extreme Rock 54/180. I don't think I'll ever even get to halfway on Extreme Rock but would like to think I'd have a chance of completing Hard and Classic before arthritis gets me.

It had also passed me by Derek, that this was your last stats as our spiritual leader. Great job - it's one of the fun things that attracted me to join in at the beginning of the year, and is something I've looked forward to each Sunday/Monday. Training can often feel a bit lonely so it's nice to feel that someone is looking over each week and acknowledging the effort, helped me think more clearly about what I've been doing and make me laugh. Thanks. 

Thank you for all the continuously detailed stats - never a week has gone by without a comment that hasn't made me think a little deeper than I might have otherwise.

Week 34

M – “Nothing”. Smartphone says I walked 5miles around Chester zoo. Much of that was with a toddler on shoulders, pushing a pram, (or both!) and felt pretty draining.

T – COMPEX core and hip mobility/stretching.

W – A real nothing (pack up and drive home in the evening).

T – Worst board session in weeks. I felt heavy, saggy and had atrocious skin. Failed on nearly everything, with a flash of a new 7A+ BM being the sole consolation prize.

F – Lots of evening stretches, really loosening up tight hip flexors (bane of the office worker).

S – 5min gentle aero-cap warm-up, then 10x flashes from 6B+ to 7B, including a bunch of future classics (?) from Ross. Feeling suitably warmed up, I tried a 7C BM without luck, but then smashed Ironarm, “7B” (7B+/C?) in a couple of goes. I then did a “7C+” variant 1st go/flash, which had the same crux start but a marginally harder finish. No change in difficulty between the 2 IMHO. Finally, had my best ever attempts at Kawaschuwu, 8A. I did all bar one of the moves, and got close on that one.  COMPEX core after dinner.

S – Another “nothing” which was actually a very tiring 4.5mile walk with toddler & baby at the open day of the Duke of Westminster’s country pile.

BHM – Back on the board, hoping to make progress on Kawaschuwu. No luck, with tired shoulders and poor skin (very sore pinkie nail bed split). Good links on a couple of 7B+ and 7C BMs, but no ticks. Still much better than the Thursday session.

Thanks Derek, had another solid week, feeling good building on the effort previously put in 

Monday, 2km lunchtime swim 

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5 k run in the evening whilst kids swim training

Wednesday,1km lunchtime swim

Thursday, 1.5km lunchtime swim followed by stretch class

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim. Eldest daughter wasn't feeling at her best so stayed in town to give her a lift home after she finished work so got a 5k run in and a 0.5k swim as a warm down

Saturday and Sunday were spent (wasted...?) trawling the shops for back to school clothes, shoes etc. as well as swimwear for the new season. Didn't get the usual long run in but as it was the bank holiday we pushed that on until Monday to fit everything else in.

On a very positive note my eldest daughter has enjoyed the longer runs so much that she has decided to do the Leicester half marathon with us 

Thanks Derek. A fairly low key week for me with a lot of finger stretching to start getting the joint mobility back, which is already feeling a lot looser.

M - Rest

T - Zone 2 base ride on Zwift. 1hr / 170 watt average

W - Rest

T - Zone 2 base into Zone 4 intervals on Zwift. 45 mins / 205 watt average

F/S/S - Rest

Hi Derek. A mix of forgetfulness and not much to report anyway.....but thanks for checking in.

I have been addressing a shoulder issue (long standing) and irritated the shoulder by doing so. I ended up with a nerve irritation: numb fingers, sore elbow and shoulder, especially in bed. I've also been pumping out fantastically quickly in my left arm. So much so I've had to wear my watch on my other arm as the band gets too tight.

So not much to report other than some below par climbing and lots of rehab.

It is on the mend now. Much improved and I'm sleeping better, which is more than half the battle. I don't do well off reduced sleep.

I'm starting training this week for our Leonidio trip in November. With my shoulder and the weather I have given up on trad for this year,  other than the odd nice day out when the weather allows.

Hi Ross - sorry for slow reply.

I'm not sure how these handovers work, but I thought you offered a stint, followed by Tom?  I will happily pick it up again at some point, but thought I should step aside for a while to preserve my marriage!

I'll also offer to provide feedback each week on your posts, as one of the problems as statter is you don't get much back.  If that would help, then let me know - for one reason or another, you've had some challenges lately!  

Thanks all for comments made.  As you can tell, I do like doing the stats, partly because it helps keep me keen, but definitely need a break as I want to invest in training more myself!  I'm also a bit behind on my targets for the year, so need to push on!  Happy to do another set in 2024!

I think I'll just start with posting next week's one tomorrow and take it from there? I'll have a go at doing my own feedback, but of course like normal anyone is welcome to comment or advise on anyone else's. That's the joy of FC!

Hi Derek,

Thanks for your encouragement and advice – and, of course, as everyone else has remarked, for your stint. I’m really grateful for how you’ve helped me feel part of the club – sharing your experience and knowhow, judicious remarks, a touch of humour…always giving me something to mull over. Thanks.

And this week is no exception! I feel as if I could reply to almost every word in your paragraph, from networking through to the credit for just trying. And to be truthful, I did – but I won’t post it because it ended up being very, very long.
What you describe sounds very much like a wonderful mellowing to my ears – almost as if you’ve protected / shielded your enthusiasm from the ravages of (too much?) expectation and disappointment...and success is seldom direct, but arrives around corners…exemplar…

Mon: stretching & hang board session, French pullups, core
Tue: stretching & leg work, bit of foam rolling in the evening
Wed: hang board, French pullups
Thu: wall, Thalkirchen: 5c, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 7a, 6b. Back with my regular midweek partner. I think it was the hottest day I’ve ever climbed…given my mini abstinence and the heat, turned out to be quite a pleasing session, the 6b+ went very smoothly, and I almost onsighted the 7a…
Fri: upper body & stretching
Sat: hang board, core
Sun: stretching – yoga

Thanks again, Derek – and welcome, Ross.
 

Thanks Derek for all your encouragement and insight this year!

Mon: 8km run.

Tue: to Wynd Cliff for Trial (HVS 5a).

Wed: 10km run.

Thu: to Wintour's Leap for Cheetah (HVS 5a).

Fri: 7km run.

Sat: -

Sun: to Ban y Gor, mostly to hold the ropes for a friend working the moves Match Point (8a).  Really inspiring to watch his process.

~~~

A recap of my goals for 2023:

* Become a well-rounded HVS leader.  I'm 17/23 through my ticklist of local routes for the year.  I certainly feel confident on Wye Valley limestone, but as Derek says, grit is a different ball game.  Am unlikely to get much chance to get more time away from home this year.

* Become proficient at redpointing 7a indoors.  I climbed three 7as earlier this year but haven't climbed indoors much over the summer.  I'm going to aim for five more 7as before the end of the year.  With the right mindset + approach, this should be doable.

* Run 1000km in the year.  Current required run rate 26.4km/week, so this is looking manageable

To this, I'm going to add:

* Submit my FC report each Monday morning.  No excuses!

Ticklist going well.  What have you got left to do?

One at Shorn Cliff (for next weekend hopefully) and the rest at Avon, to be picked off in a couple of trips in the autumn.

* All for One... (HVS 5a)

* Great Central Route (HVS 5a)

* The Corpse (HVS 5a)

* The Lich (HVS 5a)

* Hell Gates (HVS 5a)

* Suspension Bridge Arête (HVS 5a)

Nice list. If you get on fine with Great Central Route then Central Buttress at E1 felt very HVS like to me. Hell gates is great too, there used to be a book to sign in the cave on the way up.