UKC Logbook - South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Contributed by duncan Sep/19 - This public ticklist has been seen 4,077 times

The shock of the new. When published it was the first time Pentire Head, Tintagel or Carn Gowla had appeared in a widely available guidebook. It still works as a fine selection of middle-grade routes, though some of the Cheddar and Torbay choices in might raise an eyebrow in the 21st century.

Morning Glory (Cheddar), Easter Egg (Swanage), Crimtyphon and Caravanserai (Compass Point), Spacewalk (Lundy), and Yankee Doodle (Land's End) have changed significantly or disappeared completely.

Syd Clarke on pitch 1 of Albion © cathsullivan — Syd Clarke on pitch 1 of Albion
© cathsullivan, Aug 2012

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	Marti999	74%	22 Aug
2nd	duncan	60%	26 Mar
3rd	Hidden	56%	Mar, 2004
4th	steve_gibbs	44%	16 Aug
5th	Steve Claw	39%	11 Jun
5th	Iain Weymouth	39%	30 Jul
6th	timreynolds	38%	3 Aug
7th	Dunthemall	36%	22 Nov, 2010
8th	Martin Bennett	34%	21 May
9th	Hidden	32%	13 Nov, 2010

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades

Trad

Sport

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Diamond Solitaire (VS)** Lundy. © rockcat

Parminder making light work of the classic The Cormorant’s Bill on the first outing of the year. © Rich Draisey

An exhilarating solo of The Devil's Slide, my 400ft intro to Lundy © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route © Luke Carroll

Falling barbecues and resultant belay-ledge fires are a hazard in Avon © Seb Samways

First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago. © Marc Elliott

Waiting for the rock to dry, Blackchurch © petecallaghan

Diamond Solitaire (VS4c), Flying Buttress Main Cliff, Lundy © THE.WALRUS

Fighting for space on a loaded harness © Julesthe1st

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	AVON GORGE
1	The Earl of Perth	E1 5b ***	553	46m	• 2	Avon Gorge...
2	Suspension Bridge Arête	HVS 5a **	1399	35m		Avon Gorge...
3	Giant's Cave Buttress	VS 4c ***	1569	80m	• 3	Avon Gorge...
4	Great Central Route	HVS 5a ***	627	68m	• 2	Avon Gorge (Main...
5	Central Rib	VS 4b *	519	61m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
6	The Arête	S 4a **	2114	40m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
7	Direct Route	S 4a *	1254	27m		Avon Gorge (Main...
8	Sinister	HS 4b **	1410	52m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
9	Mike's Mistake	E2 5b **	373	53m	• 2	Avon Gorge (Main...
10	Pink Wall Traverse	HVS 5a **	318	47m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
11	Dawn Walk	S 4a *	504	65m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
12	Pink Wall Direct	E2 5c ***	139	60m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
13	Lich Gates	E2 5c ***	239	54m	• 2	Avon Gorge (Main...
14	Malbogies	HVS 5a ***	1017	57m	• 2	Avon Gorge (Main...
15	The Preter	E2 5b ***	146	77m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
16	Krapp's Last Tape	E3 5b ***	198	35m		Avon Gorge (Main...
17	Think Pink	E3 6a ***	193	69m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Main...
18	Bon Bogies	HVS 5a **	287	30m		Avon Gorge (Main...
19	The Lich	HVS 5a **	498	27m		Avon Gorge (Main...
20	Nightmare	S 4a **	1801	50m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Sea...
21	Last Slip	E3 5c ***	127	40m	• 2	Avon Gorge (Sea...
22	Morpheus	HVD **	2150	67m	• 4	Avon Gorge (Sea...
23	Yellow Edge	E3 5c ***	345	72m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Sea...
24	Unknown Wall	VS 4c **	675	55m	• 3	Avon Gorge (Sea...
25	The Blik	E3 5b **	102	50m		Avon Gorge (Sea...
	BREAN DOWN
26	Pandora's Box	VS 4c *	139	?		Brean Down
27	Cyclops Slab	HVS 4c *	81	?		Brean Down
28	Great Corner	E2 5a *	28	?		Brean Down
	CHEDDAR
29	Ready Steady Go	E1	7	50m		Cheddar Gorge South
30	Consolation	E1 5b **	58	?		Cheddar Gorge South
31	Temptation	HS 4b	88	?		Cheddar Gorge South
32	Brainbiter	E2 5b ***	38	?	• 2	Cheddar Gorge South
33	Doomwatch	E1 5b	7	?		Cheddar Gorge South
34	Utopia	HVS 4c **	86	?	• 3	Cheddar Gorge South
35	Nirvana	E2 5b *	3	?		Cheddar Gorge South
36	Burma Road	E2 5c *	29	?		Cheddar Gorge South
37	Mourning Glory	VS	28	?		Cheddar Gorge South
38	Crow (WW)	E3 5c ***	70	120m	• 5	Cheddar Gorge South
39	Sceptre	VS 4c	51	?		Cheddar Gorge South
40	Coronation Street (WW)	E1 5b ***	671	?	• 6	Cheddar Gorge South
41	The Twilight of Imperialism	E2 5b **	102	?		Cheddar Gorge South
42	Eat a Peach	HVS 5a *	16	?		Cheddar Gorge South
43	Thor	HVS 5b **	86	?		Cheddar Gorge South
44	Knight's Climb (WW)	D	199	52m	• 3	Cheddar Gorge South
	SWANAGE
45	Mars	E2 5b ***	167	25m	• 2	Subluminal and...
46	Melpomene	E4 5c ***	30	30m		Subluminal and...
47	Strophanthin	HVS 5a	27	45m	• 2	Boulder Ruckle
48	Elysium	E1 5b ***	652	38m		Boulder Ruckle
49	Lightning Wall	HVS 5a ***	910	38m		Boulder Ruckle
50	Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds Combination	HVS 5a *	44	35m	• 2	Boulder Ruckle
51	Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)	VS 5a ***	264	46m	• 3	Boulder Ruckle
52	Finale Groove	HVS 4c ***	1006	35m		Boulder Ruckle
53	Wall Street	HS 4b ***	597	32m	• 2	Cormorant Ledge
54	Quality Street	HVS 4c ***	448	?		Cormorant Ledge
55	Ledgend Direct	HVS 5a **	506	33m	• 2	Guillemot Ledge
56	Tensor II	VS 5a ***	1169	35m	• 2	Guillemot Ledge
57	Zo-Zo	VS 4b *	288	40m	• 2	Guillemot Ledge
58	Warlord	E4 6a ***	84	45m	• 2	Guillemot Ledge
59	Tudor Rose	E2 5b ***	223	?		Guillemot Ledge
	TORBAY
60	Love Not War	S *	7	65m	• 2	Babbacombe Crags
61	Safari	HVS 5b **	21	96m	• 4	Long Quarry Point
62	Black Ice	E3 5c ***	199	53m	• 2	Long Quarry Point
63	Ruby in the Dust	VS 4c *	62	60m	• 2	Long Quarry Point
64	The Gilded Turd	HVS 4c	7	73m	• 4	Long Quarry Point
65	Steppenwolf Direct	E2 5c *	6	70m	• 3	Long Quarry Point
66	Incubus Direct	E3 5c *	15	43m	• 2	Sanctuary Wall
67	Sacrosanct	E1 5a **	97	70m	• 2	Sanctuary Wall
68	The Mitre	E3 6b ***	49	25m		Anstey's Cove
69	Gargantua	E1 5b ***	215	40m	• 3	Daddyhole Main Cliff
70	Gates of Eden	VS 5a ***	641	46m	• 3	Daddyhole Main Cliff
71	Last Exit to Torquay	HVS 5b ***	384	41m	• 2	Daddyhole Main Cliff
72	Triton	VS 5a **	347	46m	• 2	Daddyhole Main Cliff
73	The Pearl	HS 4b	54	63m	• 2	Daddyhole Main Cliff
74	The Watchtower Part II	6c+ S1 ***	149	130m		London Bridge
75	Moonraker	HVS 5a ***	763	76m	• 3	Berry Head - The...
76	Dreadnought	E3 5c ***	169	79m	• 3	Berry Head - The...
77	Goddess of Gloom	HVS 5a **	79	59m	• 3	Berry Head - The...
78	Yardarm	E2 5b **	38	57m	• 2	Berry Head - The...
79	Magical Mystery Tour	6a+ ***	937	335m		Berry Head - The...
80	Rainbow Bridge	7a+ ***	477	280m		Berry Head - The...
81	Yellow Rurties	E1 5a *	14	60m	• 2	Berry Head Quarry
82	Paranoid	E1 5b *	7	45m		Berry Head Quarry
83	Quality Street	VS 4c **	112	85m	• 4	Berry Head Quarry
	CHUDLEIGH ROCKS
84	Gagool	E2 5c **	259	33m	• 2	Chudleigh Rocks -...
85	Sarcophagus	VS 4b ***	788	31m	• 3	Chudleigh Rocks -...
86	Barn Owl Crack	HVD **	780	?		Chudleigh Rocks -...
87	Machete Wall	E2 5c ***	496	27m		Chudleigh Rocks -...
88	Jollies Route	HVD ***	1440	40m	• 3	Chudleigh Rocks -...
89	Inkerman Groove	VS 4c ***	1480	35m		Chudleigh Rocks -...
90	Never On Sunday	HS 4b **	941	50m	• 2	Chudleigh Rocks -...
91	The Spider	E1 5b ***	572	44m	• 2	Chudleigh Rocks -...
92	Great Western	VS 5a ***	754	43m	• 4	Chudleigh Rocks -...
93	The Equation	E3 6a **	5	69m	• 3	Chudleigh Rocks -...
94	Plexus	VS 4b **	71	30m		Chudleigh Rocks -...
95	Nexus	S 4a **	114	30m		Chudleigh Rocks -...
96	Nimrod	HVS 5a **	41	30m		Chudleigh Rocks -...
	HAYTOR AND LOW MAN
97	Canis	VS 4c *	203	33m		Haytor
98	Vandal and Ann	HVS 5b ***	580	27m	• 2	Haytor
99	Raven Gully	S 4a **	1794	27m	• 3	Haytor
100	Interrogation	E3 6a ***	244	35m		Haytor
101	Aviation	E1 5b ***	1217	36m	• 2	Haytor
	THE DEWERSTONE
102	Pinnacle Buttress	VD **	1190	?		The Dewerstone
103	Mucky Gully	D **	2235	40m		The Dewerstone
104	Colonel's Arete	VD **	2215	?	• 4	The Dewerstone
105	Central Groove	HS 4b ***	4019	?	• 2	The Dewerstone
106	Fruitflancase	E1 5a ***	545	46m	• 3	The Dewerstone
107	Climbers' Club Direct	HVS 5a ***	1055	50m	• 2	The Dewerstone
108	Route B	HVD **	1601	?		The Dewerstone
109	Needle Arete	VD **	1348	?	• 3	The Dewerstone
	BAGGY POINT
110	Ben	S 4a ***	1779	?		Baggy Point
111	Kinkyboots	VS 4c **	1047	61m	• 2	Baggy Point
112	Midnight Cowboy	HVS 5b ***	681	?		Baggy Point
113	Pink Void	VS 4c *	98	?		Baggy Point
114	Undercracker	E1 5a **	283	?		Baggy Point
115	Urizen	VS 4c **	783	?		Baggy Point
116	Shangri-La	S 4a ***	1752	45m		Baggy Point
117	Scrattling Crack	VD **	532	?		Baggy Point
	BLACKCHURCH
118	The Almighty	E1 5a *	10	?		Blackchurch
119	Savage God	E4 5c **	10	74m		Blackchurch
120	The Verger	E1 5a *	44	?		Blackchurch
121	The Archtempter	E3 5b **	43	?		Blackchurch
122	Sacre Coeur	E2 5c ***	657	?		Blackchurch
	CORNAKEY CLIFF
123	Wreckers' Slab	VS 4b ***	827	115m	• 3	Cornakey Cliff
	LOWER SHARPNOSE POINT
124	Mascon	E1 5b **	321	?		Lower Sharpnose...
125	Clawtrack	HVS 4c **	183	40m		Lower Sharpnose...
126	Lunakhod	HVS 5a ***	779	40m		Lower Sharpnose...
	COMPASS POINT
127	Tydomin	HVS 4c **	293	?		Compass Point (Bude)
128	Crimtyphon	E2 5c ***	301	30m		Compass Point (Bude)
129	Caravanserai	HVS 5a	201	?		Compass Point (Bude)
	FOCAL BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
130	Ulysses Factor	HVS 5a *	100	?		Lundy
131	Golden Gate	E4 6a ***	18	?		Lundy
	WEIRD WALL (LUNDY)
132	Apsara	HVS 4c	3	?		Lundy
133	Wodwo	E2 5b *	5	?		Lundy
134	Navigator	E3 5c **	1	?		Lundy
	OLD LIGHT CLIFF (LUNDY)
135	Albacore	HVS 5a **	90	?		Lundy
136	Sambo	HVS 5a *	4	?	• 4	Lundy
	ALPINE BUTTRESS AREA (LUNDY)
137	Wolfman Jack	E3 5c ***	168	?	• 2	Lundy
	FLYING BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
138	Diamond Solitaire	VS 4c **	676	40m	• 2	Lundy
	DEVIL'S CHIMNEY CLIFF (LUNDY)
139	Spacewalk	E3 5b	19	90m	• 3	Lundy
140	The Promised Land	E3 6a ***	50	?		Lundy
	DEEP ZAWN (LUNDY)
141	Quatermass	E2 5c ***	121	?		Lundy
142	Antiworlds	E5 6a ***	26	?	• 3	Lundy
	EGYPTIAN SLABS
143	Immaculate Slab	HVS 5a ***	247	?		Lundy
	GRAND FALLS ZAWN
144	American Beauty	HVS 5a ***	496	?		Lundy
	THE DEVIL'S SLIDE (LUNDY)
145	The Devil's Slide	HS 4a ***	1646	117m	• 5	Lundy
146	Albion	VS 4c ***	949	107m	• 4	Lundy
	FLUTED FACE (LUNDY)
147	Performance	E1 5b **	41	?		Lundy
148	Magic Flute	HVS 5a	17	?		Lundy
	ARCH ZAWN (LUNDY)
149	Headline	E1 5b ***	147	?	• 2	Lundy
150	Stop Press	E2 5c **	44	?	• 2	Lundy
	TINTAGEL HEAD
151	Il Duce	E5 6a ***	53	?		Tintagel Head
	DOYDEN POINT
152	Caprice	VS 4c **	163	?		Doyden Point
153	Lotus	E1 5b ***	157	?		Doyden Point
	PENTIRE POINT
154	Eroica	E4 6a ***	280	?		Pentire Point
155	Darkinbad the Brightdayler	E5 6a ***	161	?		Pentire Point
	CARN GOWLA
156	America	E4 5c ***	50	?		Carn Gowla
157	Mausoleum	E2 5b **	15	?		Carn Gowla
158	Happy Hunting Ground	HVS 5a *	8	?		Carn Gowla
159	Demerara	E1 5a *	21	?		Carn Gowla
160	Mercury	E2 5b ***	166	?		Carn Gowla
161	Journey to Ixtlan	HVS 4c **	115	?		Carn Gowla
	CHEESEWRING QUARRY
162	Simanon Direct	HVS 4c **	169	?		Cheesewring Quarry
163	Eyefull Tower	E2 6a ***	88	?		Cheesewring Quarry
164	Traitor's Gate	HS 4b *	69	?		Cheesewring Quarry
	THE DEVIL'S JUMP
165	South East Climb	VD ***	113	25m		Devil's Jump
	BOSIGAN
166	Alison Rib	D ***	4457	59m	• 3	Bosigran
167	Ledge Climb	HVD ***	1875	73m	• 3	Bosigran
168	Little Brown Jug	VS 5a ***	2824	66m	• 3	Bosigran
169	Doorpost	HS 4b ***	4201	67m	• 3	Bosigran
170	Bow Wall	E2 5b ***	753	52m	• 2	Bosigran
171	Suicide Wall	E1 5c ***	1260	78m	• 5	Bosigran
172	Autumn Flakes/Nameless	VS 4c **	161	60m	• 3	Bosigran
173	Ding	VS 4c **	941	42m	• 2	Bosigran
174	Ochre Slab Route I	HVS 5a **	915	32m	• 2	Bosigran
175	Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge	VD ***	3917	161m	• 8	Bosigran Ridge Area
176	The Variety Show	HVS 5a **	246	57m	• 2	Great Zawn
177	Green Cormorant Face	E2 5c **	85	50m	• 3	Great Zawn
178	The Dream/Liberator	E3 6a ***	149	64m	• 3	Great Zawn
179	Desolation Row	E2 5b **	150	36m		Great Zawn
	GURNARD'S HEAD
180	Right Angle	HS 4b ***	1079	73m	• 3	Gurnard's Head
181	Behemoth	E2 5c **	79	43m	• 3	Gurnard's Head
	CARN KENIDJACK
182	Gneiss Gnome	HS 4b *	253	27m		Kenidjack Cliffs
183	Saxon	HVS 5a ***	978	50m		Kenidjack Cliffs
	CHAIR LADDER
184	Pegasus	HS 4b ***	781	70m	• 3	Chair Ladder
185	South Face Direct	VS 4c ***	1421	59m	• 4	Chair Ladder
186	Pendulum Chimney	S 4b ***	1202	59m	• 5	Chair Ladder
187	Aerial	VS 4c **	309	47m	• 3	Chair Ladder
188	Flannel Avenue	HS 4b ***	396	52m	• 3	Chair Ladder
189	Diocese	VS 5a ***	986	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
190	Bishop's Rib	E1 5b ***	788	53m	• 3	Chair Ladder
191	Terrier's Tooth	HS 4b ***	670	40m	• 3	Chair Ladder
	LAND'S END
192	The Cormorant's Bill	E1 5b **	67	28m		Lands End
193	Johnstone's Route	HS 4b *	31	28m	• 2	Lands End
194	World's End	E1 5a **	44	25m		Lands End
195	Zawn Face Route	HVS 4c *	36	27m	• 2	Lands End
196	Yankee Doodle	E2 5b **	34	?		Lands End
	SENNEN
197	Double Overhang	VS 4c **	1251	18m		Sennen
198	Staircase	D **	1855	18m		Sennen
199	Corner Climb	VD **	2301	20m		Sennen
200	Demo Route	HS 4b ***	4006	19m	• 2	Sennen
201	Zig Zag	HVS 5a **	645	18m		Sennen
		174 e, 436 stars	115,861	7,280m	391