Some climbers like a separate harness dedicated to each particular niche they're into - be that hard sport climbing, trad, or winter/alpine use. If you take things seriously in a given specialism then that makes sense. But many of us are a bit more recreational in attitude. Perhaps we do a bit of everything, but we don't do much of it to a highly focused degree, and might happily do it all in the one harness. For that you clearly want something versatile. A reasonably light but very comfortable design with adjustable legs, cool and supportive padding, and winter capability, the Helios (Helia for women) is just such a do-it-all model.

I've had one on the go since last summer, during which time it's done the jack-of-all-trades thing very well, from mountain rock and roadside crags, sport and trad, to Scottish winter mixed and ice.

At £130 this is the Rolls Royce of Edelrid's harness range. Of the other adjustable-leg options the Jay and Jayne are £60, while the Sendero and Autana come in at £80. The Helios is an investment by comparison. Some all-rounders may be a bit of a blunt instrument, but the Helios has a refined feel. Bar some slightly irksome gear loop niggles there's practically nothing to fault.

Weight

Weighing 430g in the larger size the Helios seems a reasonable weight for a harness with its feature set (Edelrid say 385g, which must be for the smaller version), but nothing remarkable. For context, a light-ish sport-oriented harness would hover around 300g, give or take, while comfy all-rounders such as the Helios tend to be more in the region of 400g. It's quite compact in a rucksack, which is always welcome on a mountain walk-in.

Fit and comfort

For all-season use you will probably want adjustable leg loops to accommodate different clothing. The small self-locking leg buckles on the Helios are covered by fabric sleeves to help reduce wear on the webbing - a nice touch. You get plenty of elastic strap retainers on both the legs and the waist, too, so however long the webbing tail it can be neatly secured.

It's worth bearing in mind that this is quite a small-fitting harness, so while it always makes sense to try these things on in a shop before buying, this stock advice will apply to larger folk in particular. Three sizes of Helios are available (the Helia adds XS to that range):

• Small: waist 71-81cm; thigh 47-58cm
• Medium: waist 78-88cm; thigh 51-62cm
• Large: waist 85-95cm; thigh 55-66cm

With a waist of about 87cm (34 inches) and sporting pretty thick legs, I'm well into size Large territory, especially once I've added thick winter clothing. But while there's a lot more play in the belt and leg loops for people bigger still, the rise between leg loops and waist belt is less than you'll get on many harness designs, courtesy of really quite a small belay loop. In this dimension I'm pretty much at the top end of what seems a sensible fit, as a 183cm/6-foot tall person, so I suspect it may be this that limits the appeal to the bigger-than-average user.

If the fit works for you, however, this is a really comfortable harness. With split webbing inside the broad 'butterfly' shaped waist belt, the load is spread evenly around the body. Padding is minimal at the front and back of the belt, making for a lower-profile feel, while the more padded and structured 'wings' really cushion the bonier bits of the hips and pelvis. It's a similar story with the leg loops, which offer broader and deeper padding on the back of the thighs - where you'll get more pressure when hanging - and less at the front, where bulk would just get in the way. This is a harness I can wear very happily all day, with plenty of targeted support and cushioning when dangling around sport climbing.

The waist belt and leg loops are well-vented and seem quick-drying, making the Helios a good bet for use in warmer weather.

Features

The outer fabric is Bluesign-certified: every little helps. Another good feature is the tie-in point, which has a Dyneema wear indicator that will begin to show red threads if there has been excessive abrasion and damage. While I have never (yet) worn out a harness tie-in I do like the thought that it will be unambiguous as and when it does ever come time to retire the Helios on the grounds of wear and tear. Soft goods do not last forever, after all, and this is a part of the safety system that absolutely must not be in any doubt.

An all-rounder needs plenty of gear loops, with enough capacity to accommodate a fairly hefty trad rack. Here's where the Helios stumbles a little. Its four main loops are nicely shaped - with the rear pair angled forwards to keep gear you've racked there more accessible - but they are not huge, and if armed for a long trad pitch I find things get a bit cluttered. There is a good big rear loop though, with plenty of space for belay device, prussiks and maybe a couple more screwgates for the belay (it's officially for your chalk bag, but we all know these are better carried on a cord round the waist).

Size-wise I'd call the gear loops adequate rather than amazing. I have more of an issue with the fact that they are positioned quite far back, making the rear loops hard to see, and a bit of a fiddle to access, especially if wearing a rucksack. It's only a matter of being two or three centimetres further back than the loops on some of my other harnesses, but even this is enough to be an annoyance. Remember, I am wearing a size Large relatively tight; on a bigger person with the waist belt more open, the gear loops might sit further still towards the rear. My pal Dave, who uses a Helios in size Medium, has noticed the same thing, so it's not just me.

Back on more solid ground, the addition of four attachment points for ice screw clips gives you good winter racking potential, boosting the seasonal or alpine remit of the Helios. And lastly, Edelrid have made a quirky addition with the provision of a small zipped pouch, which can be threaded onto the harness to give you a place to carry keys or snacks. It's not something I've used, but I'm sure some folk will appreciate the option.

Summary

The Helios is a definite cut above your average all-round workhorse harness, with nicely sculpted and cleverly padded waist and leg loops that make it particularly comfy without excess bulk or weight. Sadly it is let down a little by the gear loops. For trad use in particular these seem slightly under-sized, while I find their positioning just a bit further back than I'd prefer. This may be influenced by fit and sizing, so it's something to look out for when trying this model on. In all other respects the Helios (and female-fit Helia) is a great year-round, do-it-all option.