The Dalesman* HVS 5a
[Tom Simpson on The Dalesman (HVS 5a) at Stanage High Neb, 3 kb]22m. The beckoning horizontal break gives a good pumpy pitch with solid jams and runners galore. © ROCKFAX
FA. Roger Greatrick 1983

Photo: Tom Simpson on The Dalesman (HVS 5a) at Stanage High Neb © Penny Allchin
View all 8 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14

wet and pumpy.
benkelsey - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/14

Excellent pumpy fun!
Gudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/14 with Leon Winchester

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

pumpy but fun
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/14 with Shaun Humphreys

dogged it over a year ago, was abit sketchy at the end of the traverse but finally done it properly!
shaunhumphreys - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/14 with benkelsey

Very pumpy as there is little for the feet.Difficult to grade HVS maybe but there are a lot easier :)Great trip though.
andybirtwistle - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

ipegg - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Simon Clark, Rob Laird, Richard Apthorp

Rob Laird - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Massively dogged! Had to prussik to regain traverse after resting. Phill and Sonja both came off but Mike managed it without resting - impressive!
timreynolds - Lead dog - 14/Jun/14 with Mike Henesy

Jay.Carr - Lead - 11/Jun/14

mapperley samurai - 2nd - 08/Jun/14 with Lewis Holmes

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 26/May/14 with Fiona, Jonny P

Cool traversing, though seconding the 2nd half didn't go exactly as planned. Was going to face a giant swing on 2nd if I fell off the end of the traverse (jon had no more gear after the rest). So instead I went up the finish of old friends. Ace finish, pumpy!!
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 19/May/14 with Jon Stewart

dogged frigged rested and fallen. insanely pumpy, feck all for your feet.
pebbles - 2nd dog - 17/May/14 with mick green

sibluer - TR - 05/May/14

Chris lead a variation that moved off the hand traverse halfway. V tricky move off the break that took me a few goes to figure out. Another rock-over ...
petecallaghan - 2nd dog - 03/May/14 with Chris Brown

Fell on final moves onto arete, pulled through then fell again, a poor effort. http://youtu.be/z_EGiwYn5uE
caradoc - Lead dog - 03/May/14 with Matt H.

Hidden - Lead - 08/Mar/14

Dan Arkle - 2014

wet holds. fell/ditched twice on traverse. couldn't place second piece of gear.
DaveMo - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/13 with Will Tarran

one rest/slump good route, sustained
ade sheffield - Lead - 14/Sep/13

Pumpy but OK if you move quickly.
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Mark

Thinker01 - 2nd β - 31/Aug/13 with RFWilkie

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 26/Aug/13 with Alooker

ERH - Lead dog - 25/Aug/13

Sarah Radford - 2nd dnf - 25/Aug/13 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

alooker - 2nd O/S - Aug/13

One cam halfway across traverse which I was carrying in my mouth.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13

missed the lower break for feet and slipped off making a lunge for good holds. much easier when I saw what I imagine are gear placements for crypt trip.
dr_botnik - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/13 with deacon, Paul Hy

edd rab - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/13 with adrian scott

adrianscott - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Edd Rab

en7edh - TR RP - 22/Jun/13

Second attempt. Fell off, pulled the ropes. Fell off again and dogged it from there. Third time lucky...
SteveM - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13 with Kat

Not so much climbed as traversed with a rope for support...
kitkat78 - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with SteveM

Pumpy. Couldn't always see where to put feet. Tough traverse.
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/13 with Alan Mountford

Very little for the feet.
hotfeet - Lead dog - 30/Apr/13 with Matthew

great route, exciting traverse.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Matt Payne

cheeky - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Mark Philipson

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Nov/12

shaunhumphreys - Lead dog - 27/Oct/12 with franhammond92

Horrible pumpy bastard of a route. Got horrdendously pumped at the crossing with old friend, fell off and couldnt get back on. Ended up prussiking up for amusement to get back on.
franhammond92 - 2nd dog - 27/Oct/12

MikeLeeds - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Wayne Higgins

First route of the day. Vince lead across the hand traverse only to fall on the last move. Pulled the ropes through and I re-lead it clipping/resting on his gear. Very sustained!
Laurence Cowton - Lead dog - 20/Oct/12 with Vince

chrisallan - Lead dog - 14/Oct/12

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 08/Sep/12

Great fun. The footholds are there but sometimes not that obvious. Will swallow as many cams as you can carry.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Alex

David Kay - 2nd - 06/Jun/12 with Simon Coldrick

Could only just reach some of the foot holds.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Rachel B

This has to be about 5c if you're 5'4'' and not a monkey
Batt - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/12 with James Hoyes

Pre placed gear, fun route
Jake Young - Lead β - 04/Jun/12 with Chris

So pumped, was like one move from the end!
chrism225 - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12 with jem, Jake Young

Fell off trying to go up before the end - should have just carried on along the break until the slab!
Mowglee - Lead dog - 20/May/12 with Ali

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Rob

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Mike Lea

Ingenious use of a Kleimheist to get back on the climb after the rope stretched too far! :)
batterj2 - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with Tom Parry, Alexandra Lewis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

steven - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Will Taylor

PAJames - 2012

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 19/Nov/11 with random

Nigel Bond - TR - 02/Nov/11 with Bern Hardman

cobweb - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with euan naismith

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Jeremy Windsor

andysroom - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Lizzie

Skell - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jules

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Andy Houseman

bobstones - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/11

Very pumpy!
JYates - Lead dog - 31/May/11 with Stephen Kearney

1st effort climbed up too early from the traverse and got pumped.
Dibdawg - 2nd RP - 28/May/11 with Mark Sheridan

Chris M - Lead - 05/May/11 with Polly

very well protected but equally strenuous, can see why the 3 parties before me gave up half way
pudding - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with john phethean

Great fun!
willworkforfoodjnr - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Kieron

Hidden - Lead rpt - Apr/11

mattorford - Lead - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11

David Smith - 2011

A good example of an HVS that feels harder than many E1s. I got very pumped and fell at the end of the traverse. Make sure you warm up well before getting on this. No really hard moves, but many of them and very little rest.
nigel pearson - Lead dog - 06/Nov/10 with Yoko

marclloyd77 - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Dean Bucknall

John Tanner - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

SteveM - 2nd - 30/Sep/10 with Alex

SteveM - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/10 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/10

Found the first few meters hardest in many ways and was pushed physically. Placing the gear uses up a lot of energy and unless you are tall there isnt much for the feet(tall can use low footholds on first section my second said).
David Smith - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10

Hidden - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/10

Well fun, but not really at the time! Would be much harder without your second telling you where to put your feet! Mega disco fun times
jack89 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Purdy

JamesPurdy - 2nd - 16/Aug/10 with Jack Gilbert

joese7en - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/10

Wanted to do this for years, it was every bit as hard as I was expecting, had me squealing like a pig.
petellis - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Bex

hailtryfan - 2nd O/S - Jul/10 with AJ Bowley

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Chi Huo Cheng

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 28/May/10 with Rachel Stater

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Raho, Lee

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/10

raptorheli - Lead dnf - 16/Mar/10 with terryb

katyvose1 - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09

Not technically hard but v strenuous
petegruf - Lead dog - 27/Sep/09 with mark l

Twisty - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09 with Nigel Stock

Pumpy!
james.f.williamson - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Jez Wingate

Vicious.
Darragh - 2nd dog - Sep/09 with Mike

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with olly

Ben didn't fancy the traverse, so I filled in. Aparrently I would have taken a bit of a swing in a groundwards direction so maybe he was right.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - May/09 with Guy Buckingham

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

MONKEY78 - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/09 with Shauna Cunningham, Jules Vulliamy

i was extremely pumppy and only just made it onto the face
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with anthony

b.hayley - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/09 with alfredo

Alfredo - Lead - 04/Apr/09 with Ben H

Lou Kennedy - 2nd - 02/Apr/09

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Nicki Hearne

pigeonslipper - Lead dog - 2009

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Brian and Dave

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - Lead dog - 15/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

Toby Dunn - Solo - Aug/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/08

sparkass - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Andrew Wightman

Castleclimber - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Daniel Leite

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/08

fell at the end of the crack got to pumped dam. top hvs
Dale - Lead dog - May/08

gingerdave13 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with stig

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Skell

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Sorry bout the swing gareth.....
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Protheroe

JPGR - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Daniel

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/07 with AJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/07

Still desperate, 3rd attempt at this route in total, its so hard. Could have made it a bit further tha npreviously but Neil had rested on a nut in the same place I have done twice in the past, and I ended up sitting on the rope to get it out. The nhad to have a nother rest at the very end of the traverse though, struggled ot get round the arete. Very unfit at the moment.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/07 with Neil Furniss

Slumped on to rope at end of traverse then continued
Alfredo - Lead dog - Sep/07 with Ben H

b.hayley - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/07

mattyork2 - Lead β - 15/Jan/07 with Greg Sexton

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 14/Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

no desperately hard moves but sustained 4c/5a all the way and no rests at all, uber-pumpy. I had ot have one rest where it crosses Old Friends (the same place where I stopped and gave up 10 months earlier). Top-end HVS.
Si dH - Lead dog - 02/Dec/06 with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert

Nicos - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/06 with ray

Hidden - Solo - 10/Aug/06

ChrisJD - 2nd - 06/Aug/06 with rc

givemetea - Lead dog - 08/Jul/06 with Tim

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/06

cem - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Graham Dolman

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/05

Hopevalleypaul - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/05 with Gareth W

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/05

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/05 with steve burdett

Stone Muppet - 2005

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04 with Slim Beam

Gman - 2nd O/S - Aug/03 with Rob

Andy Chubb - 2nd - 01/Jul/03 with Bart, Steve Goodman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/03

rocktigger - 2nd - 2002 with Sum old gadgy

alex_th - Jun/00 with Stephen Lumb

Hidden - 2000

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/99 with Iain Fisher

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jan/67

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, LJC, theocelano, sibluer, Steve Waters, Mynydd, bobpilgrem, Mowglee, iceaxejuggler, Chi Cheng, Reds, petellis, Hopevalleypaul

Voting
Total votes cast 135
hard E10 of 47
E10 of 47
easy E15 of 47
hard HVS33 of 47
HVS8 of 47
easy HVS0 of 47
hard VS1 of 47
VS0 of 47
easy VS0 of 47
hard 5b0 of 46
5b0 of 46
easy 5b5 of 46
hard 5a27 of 46
5a12 of 46
easy 5a1 of 46
hard 4c1 of 46
4c0 of 46
easy 4c0 of 46
3 Stars5 of 42
2 Stars24 of 42
1 Star12 of 42
0 Stars1 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf