Rockfax Description
The thin crack is protectable but a surprising struggle. Fat fingers do not help at all. © Rockfax

FA. Gerry Rogan 1964

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Hidden 20/Oct Lead
Hidden 19/Oct Lead dog
Jack93 11/Oct Lead O/S

Good fun! Entertaining climbing using a shuffling knee bar to get through the crux

with Remy Veness
charley 20/Aug Solo O/S

Brilliant climb. Tried soloing it earlier on in the year but couldn't commit to the crux, was planning on coming back with gear. Went okay today, managed the crux no problem but felt fairly tough & although the holds are good at the top it was a pretty gripping solo.

Hidden 30/Jul Lead
dr_botnik 23/Jul Lead dnf

Harder than it looked from the ground. Ha ha.

with ken
Nevil 19/Jul Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/Jul 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 21/Jun 2nd dnf
toasted 20/Jun 2nd
with Michael Kurach
PeteWilson 07/Jun Lead
with mark, James
Louishmouis 05/Jun Solo O/S
MatthewH 10/May Lead dnf
with Andy S
Hidden 03/May 2nd
harry_lewis 20/Apr Solo O/S

fairly gripping solo

shaunhumphreys 20/Apr Lead rpt

wasnt psyched for much else so thought id re do this and not be such a punter!

SeanSmith 19/Apr TR O/S

Easy top rope but would have felt sketchy to lead

shaunhumphreys 13/Apr Lead dog

Thought i was getting somewhere with the grit... apparently not! got fully shat on by this! time to get on some other rock i think!

with Dawn
Dawn_K_B 13/Apr 2nd
gavinpeach 06/Apr Lead dog
with Max Pendleton
FlavioL1989 01/Mar 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 01/Mar Lead O/S
with Flavio, Rob
Hidden 06/Nov/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 04/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Teappleby 26/Oct/14 Solo

fun, was interesting climbing all the way.

Nick1812P 14/Sep/14 Solo rpt

still hard.

with Pete
Matt Groom 30/Aug/14 Lead
Alex Thompson 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Nemesis route. Had trouble committing to the higher block after a couple of slumps...

rockman 04/Jul/14 2nd

Found it hard 44 years ago when it was VS and it is still desperate now.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
Jonny M 05/May/14 TR dog
fatbuoybazza 05/May/14 Lead rpt
with Grimbo, Jon
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mjeffery 10/Sep/13 Lead G/U

1 fall. got it second go.

LakesWinter 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf

FFS!!!!! Made stupid mistakes

with Cake
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
mapperley samurai 06/Jul/13 TR
with Rosa Villaseca, John Cook
lanc23 12/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/13 Lead
benkelsey 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Slightly pumpy. laced like a shoe though. had to ab for (allll) the gear, since jake was broken, everywhere, and sacked it off with split tips, dodgy knee and groin.

nick ferro 16/Mar/13 2nd
g1m147 16/Dec/12 Lead
with Wayne s
Wayne S 16/Dec/12 2nd O/S
with Gary
john lynch 16/Oct/12 Solo O/S
daviesp2 13/Oct/12 2nd dnf
Curly Rich 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with GMC Rodger
Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead dog
LakesWinter 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Hand on the top of the crag and I fell off.

with Dave
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Cake 24/May/12 Solo O/S

Naughty onsight solo. Felt fine

LakesWinter 15/May/12 Lead dnf

So close - over the crux, totally pumped. Next time.

Whealiebob 15/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/12 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 30/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Oceanic 20/Apr/12 -
Alex@home 16/Apr/12 2nd rpt

no more than 5b if you do it right

with The Doctor
mattorford 23/Mar/12 Lead

3rd try lucky

Matt Cooke 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Solo
gavinpeach 17/Jan/12 2nd dog
deacondeacon 17/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
adam carless 06/Nov/11 Lead RP

Took my first proper lead fall in ages, woo! That'll teach me for trying to use some stylish kneebar, layback and rockover, rather than getting properly stuck into the crack. Applied some MTFU the second time and found it fairly easy (but strenuous) on good hand jams.

James Oswald 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Nails. Definitely e1?! Fell off the crux then did it after a couple of attempts. Very physical but really good. Nice to fall onto my gear a bit.

Mr. K 30/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Took a couple of goes to work it out, but it seems that facing left is the best way for the tall with fat fingers!

Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead β
mark20 18/Sep/11 Lead RP

Put gear in the crucial hand hold and ballsed it up. 2nd go GU.

Jim Slater 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 04/Sep/11 Lead rpt

after a hard session down the works this felt really hard!!

with Jim
LP 24/Aug/11 Lead dog

Hmmm, what's the definition of 'led' again...

Kirill 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Kirill 04/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
fatbuoybazza 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S


busdriver 07/Apr/11 2nd dog

Got well pumped!

Hidden ?/Apr/11 Solo G/U
Lenny 23/Jan/11 TR dnf
with Paul
mwatson ??/2011 -
JamieSparkes 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

definitely a proper HVS!

with Nick
Nick1812P 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Andrew Barker 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S

Tricky and a bit scary.

with Tom Lyons
Brown 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Solo
Bob 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with G. Macauley
JamesBritton 05/Sep/10 TR dog
with Dimi
angus ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
schaff 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jimbo
Jimbo C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Lassa
Hidden 25/Jul/10 -
KarlH 03/Jul/10 TR

Got it first go. Wouldn't be keen on leading it though!

with Gemma
Zygoticgema 03/Jul/10 TR dnf
with KarlH
tomthecoolperson 14/Jun/10 Lead dog
ben_250 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Andrew, Tom
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Pown 12/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo
Hidden 04/Apr/10 2nd
dashitboarder 28/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Wow doesn't look so tough form the ground!

psychicbread 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Max
shaun walby 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf
with Phil West
ShaunD 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S

cold hard bitch. but i did her in the first date.

gazfellows 19/Mar/10 2nd
Woodiee 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

nothing like an easy warm up on a very cold day - it is suprisingly overhanging... and quite tough! tones of gear thou, but hanging around to place it is costly! packs quite a punch for HVS - if the gear wasnt so plentiful and bomber, would be a tough E1

Ollie B 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with J.Shewring
Oliver Houston 10/Mar/10 Lead dog

tough and squirmy, good lead tho

TonyF ??/2010 Lead
RossG ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 15/Sep/09 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/09 Lead
James_D 13/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Fell off with the immortal words "its not a jug, sh1t aaaaaa"

with Esther
LardClimber 30/Aug/09 Lead dog
Reaver2k 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely ******* nails for HVS! Laybacked up the first bit, put a decent cam and nut in under the crack bulge (crux) couldn't figure out the move first time, climbed back to the floor, tried laybacking but couldnt get a decent right hand as it was pretty much a fingerlock. Back to the floor, back up, tried again, no luck, back down, back up, then figured out to swap my hands at the bottom, so I had my right hand right down below the bulge, then reached all the way through the bulge to the good hold at the top with my left hand. Swapped round hands, and put hand on the block... CLUNK, it moves... Shat myself, tried putting in gear here there and everywhere, getting pretty pumped. Moved up into the niche and got a poor rest in it by jamming my body using my head and feet and standing up. then tried moving on through pumped out of my mind. Traversed out left, continued trying to put in the wrong gear in the wrong placements over and over getting more and more pumped, got a poor cam in and hauled myself over the top. Most pumped I've ever been, and would not have liked to have fallen! Lucky escape, surely atleast E1?!

matthewjames 21/Aug/09 2nd β
Lisaaa 21/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Watson
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead dog
markytaylor 26/Jun/09 2nd dog
Timo Austino 18/Jun/09 -
JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Graeme Hammond 10/May/09 Lead dog

climb the slanting crack if you think you're hard enough... definatly not hard enough :(

thomasadixon 10/May/09 2nd rpt

Much harder to second than solo!

with Graeme
Hannah Moulton 22/Apr/09 2nd
with Gav
thomasadixon 21/Apr/09 Solo O/S
virtualinsanity 03/Apr/09 TR dnf
with C
evilbree 03/Apr/09 TR dnf
with N
Hidden 24/Mar/09 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Sgt. Vest 28/Dec/08 Solo O/S
Mr. K 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Crack was full of green slime. Had worn my forearms out by the time I'd cleaned it out with chalky fingers. Should definitely go next time.

with Ben Day
ben__day 12/Oct/08 2nd
with Mr. K
jimsrankin ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Adrian
briar4012 25/Jul/08 TR

I think this the correct route.

Hidden 25/Jul/08 TR O/S
danm ?/Jul/08 Lead
with Mel & Annalise
craig matheson ?/Apr/08 Solo
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
NickST ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
nai 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rob & Rik
Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
kyt341k 29/Jul/07 Lead dog

A number of rests taken

with Nick Ingram
Nicos 06/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with solo
BruceW 06/May/07 2nd dog

Still hard!

with Dave
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22/Apr/07 Solo rpt
Andy Chubb 21/Apr/07 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
joese7en ??/2007 -
Hidden 05/Nov/06 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd dnf
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Phil Jennings 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Woodseats Venture Unit#
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead dnf
Rampikino 11/May/06 Lead
with Cat
dan gibson 11/Apr/06 Solo rpt
with AJ
Hidden 15/Jan/06 2nd dog
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 04/Dec/05 -
baldcoder 07/Sep/05 Lead dnf


Hidden 20/Jun/05 Lead O/S
SteveM 23/Apr/05 2nd
with Keith
Chris M ??/2005 -
Hidden 22/Jun/04 2nd dog
Gambit 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Tim
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 2nd dog
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2004 -
cem 06/Sep/03 Lead dog
with Pete Atkinson
Phil West 22/Feb/03 Lead dnf
with Chris Tan
Monk ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/02 Solo rpt
Carl Smethurst 06/Oct/02 2nd
with Ian Pickles, Dave Pemberton
julian allen 13/Jul/02 TR
Hidden 28/May/02 Solo O/S
JEP ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
uphillnow 03/Nov/99 Lead

done before but no dates

Hidden 18/Aug/99 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/1997 Lead dog

Tough - 1 rest.

with Al D.
Hidden ??/1997 -
Laramadness 26/Oct/96 Lead dog
Laramadness 26/Oct/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 12/Mar/96 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 24/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
cragspud ??/1995 Lead
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/94 2nd
with Gamba, Rachel Nicolson
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden 15/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Roget 12/Oct/92 Solo O/S
Marti999 05/Sep/92 Lead
with kev
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Solo
Hidden 21/May/92 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/90 -
samt 23/May/90 Lead

Horrific time after an initial lob onto gear (or not since dad let go of rope to spot me). Proceed to storm off up it, get hideously too pumped to place more gear and very nearly came off the top having elected to push on rather than place gear. Memorable

with Dad
NeilGriffiths ??/1989 -
Rob Davies ?/Apr/88 2nd

I'm sure I had failed on this little nasty in the past

Hidden 25/Oct/87 Solo
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/87 Solo O/S
Andy Say 04/Sep/87 Solo
shark ?/Nov/86 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/85 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/85 Solo
stp 02/May/85 Solo O/S

Use kneebar on the crux makes it more like VS 5a.

Mark Kemball 12/Jun/83 Solo
mark-abz 19/Sep/82 2nd
with Andy W
Hidden 13/Mar/82 Solo
Nic Robinson 13/Mar/82 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/80 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/79 Solo
Mark Kemball 22/Jul/78 Solo
mikej 28/Oct/73 Solo
with John Bickerdyke, Geoff Williams
rogerskews ??/1971 Lead
with CMC Members
mikej 13/Oct/68 TR

Last move only.

with Wil Hurford, Ian Clayton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, George Killaspy, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, RobSimmo, PanzerHanzler, AsleepOnBelay, adam carless
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 68
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set