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The Grogan* HVS 5c

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[Unnamed prob, right of the grogan - B4, 2 kb]8m. The thin crack is protectable but a surprising struggle; fat fingers do not help at all. A proper gritstone HVS! © ROCKFAX
FA. Gerry Rogan 1964

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Unnamed prob, right of the grogan - B4 © village-idiot
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 208 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Nemesis route. Had trouble committing to the higher block after a couple of slumps...
Alex Thompson - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Sam Carey

Found it hard 44 years ago when it was VS and it is still desperate now.
rockman - 2nd - 04/Jul/14 with Andrew Edwards

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/14

Jonny M - TR dog - 05/May/14 with Barry McRobb

fatbuoybazza - Lead rpt - 05/May/14 with Grimbo, Jon

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

1 fall. got it second go.
mjeffery - Lead RP - 10/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jul/13

mapperley samurai - TR - 06/Jul/13 with Rosa Villaseca, John Cook

lanc23 - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/13

Slightly pumpy. laced like a shoe though. had to ab for (allll) the gear, since jake was broken, everywhere, and sacked it off with split tips, dodgy knee and groin.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Jake Shaw

nick ferro - 16/Mar/13 with Jonathan Aylwin

g1m147 - Lead - 16/Dec/12 with Wayne s

Wayne S - 2nd O/S - 16/Dec/12 with Gary

john lynch - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/12

daviesp2 - 2nd dnf - 13/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/12

Naughty onsight solo. Felt fine
Cake - Solo O/S - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/May/12

Whealiebob - 2nd O/S - 15/May/12 with Dave Saxby, Terry

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/12

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/12 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/12

Oceanic - 20/Apr/12

no more than 5b if you do it right
Alex@home - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/12 with The Doctor

3rd try lucky
mattorford - Lead - 23/Mar/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Solo - Mar/12

gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 17/Jan/12 with Andrew Deacon

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Took my first proper lead fall in ages, woo! That'll teach me for trying to use some stylish kneebar, layback and rockover, rather than getting properly stuck into the crack. Applied some MTFU the second time and found it fairly easy (but strenuous) on good hand jams.
adam carless - Lead RP - 06/Nov/11 with James Rowe

Nails. Definitely e1?! Fell off the crux then did it after a couple of attempts. Very physical but really good. Nice to fall onto my gear a bit.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

Took a couple of goes to work it out, but it seems that facing left is the best way for the tall with fat fingers!
Mr. K - 2nd rpt - 30/Oct/11 with James Oswald

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/11

Put gear in the crucial hand hold and ballsed it up. 2nd go GU.
mark20 - Lead RP - 18/Sep/11

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Graeme

after a hard session down the works this felt really hard!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/11 with Jim

Hmmm, what's the definition of 'led' again...
LP - Lead dog - 24/Aug/11

Kirill - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/11 with Rob Truckle

Kirill - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/11 with Rob Truckle

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with Rob Truckle

Nails..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with liv_the_div

Got well pumped!
busdriver - 2nd dog - 07/Apr/11

Lenny - TR dnf - 23/Jan/11 with Paul

mwatson - 2011

definitely a proper HVS!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Jamie

Tricky and a bit scary.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Tom Lyons

Brown - Solo O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Solo

Bob - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with G. Macauley

JamesBritton - TR dog - 05/Sep/10 with Dimi

angus - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10

schaff - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Jimbo

Jimbo C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Lassa

Hidden - 25/Jul/10

Got it first go. Wouldn't be keen on leading it though!
KarlH - TR - 03/Jul/10 with Gemma

Zygoticgema - TR dnf - 03/Jul/10 with KarlH

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 14/Jun/10 with Ben 250, Andrew

ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/10 with Andrew, Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/10

Pown - Solo O/S - 12/May/10

Hidden - TR dog - 08/May/10

Hidden - Solo - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Apr/10

Wow doesn't look so tough form the ground!
dashitboarder - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/10

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Max

shaun walby - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/10 with Phil West

cold hard bitch. but i did her in the first date.
ShaunD - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/10

gazfellows - 2nd - 19/Mar/10

nothing like an easy warm up on a very cold day - it is suprisingly overhanging... and quite tough! tones of gear thou, but hanging around to place it is costly! packs quite a punch for HVS - if the gear wasnt so plentiful and bomber, would be a tough E1
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with josh wyatt

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10 with J.Shewring

tough and squirmy, good lead tho
Oliver Houston - Lead dog - 10/Mar/10

TonyF - Lead - 2010

RossG - 2010

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2010

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 15/Sep/09 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 15/Sep/09 with Mark Williams

Fell off with the immortal words "its not a jug, sh1t aaaaaa"
James_D - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/09 with Esther

LardClimber - Lead dog - 30/Aug/09 with Al Pease

Absolutely ******* nails for HVS! Laybacked up the first bit, put a decent cam and nut in under the crack bulge (crux) couldn't figure out the move first time, climbed back to the floor, tried laybacking but couldnt get a decent right hand as it was pretty much a fingerlock. Back to the floor, back up, tried again, no luck, back down, back up, then figured out to swap my hands at the bottom, so I had my right hand right down below the bulge, then reached all the way through the bulge to the good hold at the top with my left hand. Swapped round hands, and put hand on the block... CLUNK, it moves... Shat myself, tried putting in gear here there and everywhere, getting pretty pumped. Moved up into the niche and got a poor rest in it by jamming my body using my head and feet and standing up. then tried moving on through pumped out of my mind. Traversed out left, continued trying to put in the wrong gear in the wrong placements over and over getting more and more pumped, got a poor cam in and hauled myself over the top. Most pumped I've ever been, and would not have liked to have fallen! Lucky escape, surely atleast E1?!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Matt Marshall

matthewjames - 2nd β - 21/Aug/09 with Alan Saul

Lisaaa - 2nd - 21/Aug/09 with Mike Watson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/09

Crikey. Downclimbed a couple of times after placing gear. Little route but packs quite a punch.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jun/09

markytaylor - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/09

Timo Austino - 18/Jun/09

JPGR - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Yvette

climb the slanting crack if you think you're hard enough... definatly not hard enough :(
Graeme Hammond - Lead dog - 10/May/09 with Thomas Dixon

Much harder to second than solo!
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 10/May/09 with Graeme

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Gav

thomasadixon - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/09

virtualinsanity - TR dnf - 03/Apr/09 with C

evilbree - TR dnf - 03/Apr/09 with N

Hidden - 24/Mar/09

keith leonard - 2009

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 28/Dec/08

Crack was full of green slime. Had worn my forearms out by the time I'd cleaned it out with chalky fingers. Should definitely go next time.
Mr. K - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/08 with Ben Day

ben__day - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with Mr. K

jimsrankin - Lead O/S - Oct/08 with Adrian

I think this the correct route.
briar4012 - TR - 25/Jul/08 with Phil Lawrence

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Jul/08

danm - Lead - Jul/08 with Mel & Annalise

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

nai - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Rob & Rik

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07

A number of rests taken
kyt341k - Lead dog - 29/Jul/07 with Nick Ingram

Nicos - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/07 with solo

Still hard!
BruceW - 2nd dog - 06/May/07 with Dave

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 22/Apr/07

Andy Chubb - Lead - 21/Apr/07

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

joese7en - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Oct/06

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 16/Sep/06

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Woodseats Venture Unit#

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Jun/06

Rampikino - Lead - 11/May/06 with Cat

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 11/Apr/06 with AJ

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jan/06

dan gibson - 2006

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 04/Dec/05

wibbled
baldcoder - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/05

slacky - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/05 with Gary

SteveM - 2nd - 23/Apr/05 with Keith

Chris M - 2005

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/04

Gambit - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/04 with Tim

Jon Greengrass - 2nd dog - 2004 with reeeve

Hidden - 2004

cem - Lead dog - 06/Sep/03 with Pete Atkinson

Phil West - Lead dnf - 22/Feb/03 with Chris Tan

Monk - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Solo rpt - 18/Oct/02

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 06/Oct/02 with Ian Pickles, Dave Pemberton

julian allen - TR - 13/Jul/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/May/02

JEP - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Boy - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/99

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Tough - 1 rest.
BruceW - Lead dog - 1997 with Al D.

Hidden - 1997

Laramadness - Lead dog - 26/Oct/96

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/96

ste_d - Solo O/S - 12/Mar/96

ChrisJD - Lead - 1996

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/95 with Olivia Horner

cragspud - Lead - 1995

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 07/Sep/94 with Gamba, Rachel Nicolson

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/93

Roget - Solo O/S - 12/Oct/92

Marti999 - Lead - 05/Sep/92 with kev

NickJH - Solo - Sep/92

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/92

Hidden - Sep/90

NeilGriffiths - 1989

Hidden - Solo - 25/Oct/87

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/87

Andy Say - Solo - 04/Sep/87

shark - Solo O/S - Nov/86

Hidden - Solo - 02/Nov/85

Hidden - Solo - 09/Jul/85

Use kneebar on the crux makes it more like VS 5a.
stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/85

Mark Kemball - Solo - 12/Jun/83

mark-abz - 2nd - 19/Sep/82 with Andy W

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/82

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/82

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/80

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 26/Jun/79

Mark Kemball - Solo - 22/Jul/78

mikej - Solo - 28/Oct/73 with John Bickerdyke, Geoff Williams

rogerskews - Lead - 1971 with CMC Members

Last move only.
mikej - TR - 13/Oct/68 with Wil Hurford, Ian Clayton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, loco wilko, Hidden, RobSimmo, PanzerHanzler, jeffsheard, adam carless

Voting
Total votes cast 183
hard E10 of 64
E10 of 64
easy E19 of 64
hard HVS42 of 64
HVS13 of 64
easy HVS0 of 64
hard VS0 of 64
VS0 of 64
easy VS0 of 64
hard 6a0 of 64
6a0 of 64
easy 6a0 of 64
hard 5c1 of 64
5c1 of 64
easy 5c36 of 64
hard 5b15 of 64
5b10 of 64
easy 5b0 of 64
hard 5a1 of 64
5a0 of 64
easy 5a0 of 64
3 Stars2 of 55
2 Stars38 of 55
1 Star13 of 55
0 Stars2 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
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Style of ascent

Soloed37 of 208 (17.8%)
Lead81 of 208 (38.9%)
Followed47 of 208 (22.6%)
Toproped13 of 208 (6.2%)
Unknown30 of 208 (14.4%)

'Climbed'82 of 208 (39.4%)
clean O/S59 of 208 (28.4%)
clean β1 of 208 (0.5%)
clean rpt11 of 208 (5.3%)
clean RP5 of 208 (2.4%)
dogged30 of 208 (14.4%)
dnf20 of 208 (9.6%)