South Yorkshire > Burbage South Edge >
 
No Zag* HVS 5b

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[Dangling off No Zag, Burbage South, 3 kb]8m. Climb the flake of Zig-zag to the break then step right to gain and climb the widening hanging crack with Diculty. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Dangling off No Zag, Burbage South © Nick Smith - UKC
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 147 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Absolutely brutal. Got outrageously pumped and fell off a lot.
franhammond92 - Lead dog - 30/Nov/13

Teappleby - 2nd - 30/Nov/13 with Fran Hammond

A pumpy and difficult climb! Doesnt feel much like HVS
MSchobitz - Lead dog - 30/Nov/13 with lewis

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Ben T

Start felt harder than the finish! Gets E1 in rockfax
Hexman - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Rich I

Bisteris - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/13 with Rhys Jenkins

Hand-jam got stuck and nearly exhausted me before I could free it and finish.
DaveInPortwood - Lead - 07/Jun/13 with Gwyn Arnold

Climbster - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 03/Jun/13 with Matt

Too weak currently
Cake - Lead dnf - 04/May/13 with John Cooper

Yet another of those burly grit routes which is too hard for E1, so it got HVS. Conditions weren't ideal, the break was full of green slime, the footholds below the crack were soggy and slippy, and the crack was so wet my jams kept slipping out. Eventually struggled up, great fight, hard HVS!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/12

Another tough cookie. Foot hold down to the right comes in very handy if you move across low on a fist jam.
marcduhig - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Marc

Rich Malcolm - 2nd β - 08/Sep/12 with Matt Brennan

bit burly but fairly straight forward jamming
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Andy Winter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/12

shark - Solo - 22/Jul/12 with Toby Foord-Kelcey

RossT - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Tim Bee

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with deacon

jaamez - TR - 27/May/12 with Ray Birch

Coel Hellier - Lead - 25/May/12

I am embarrassed to say. did not finish this one. hottest day of the year, excuses etc.. lowered of my cam in the break.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 24/May/12 with Fran Hammond

Ram MkiV - Solo rpt - 12/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 2012

Vincej - 2nd - 2012 with Nevil

Dirk Uhlig - Solo O/S - 04/Oct/11

JaseSSDD - 2nd dog - 21/Aug/11 with Ian Barker

Hidden - 27/Jun/11

tomthecoolperson - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/11 with Ben 250, Andrew

ben_250 - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/11 with Andrew, Tom

Oceanic - 04/Jun/11

Gazleah - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Emilio Bachini

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 18/May/11 with Ben 250

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/May/11

This is rapidly becoming my nemesis. This was the lamest effort of the 3 I can remember, had my SPI
petellis - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/11 with Bex

cem - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/11 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Different Steve - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/11 with Steve Gray

Peter Holder - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Dave Green

This was meant to be a bouldering day with perhaps a few routes if it warmed up. It wasn't actually particularly cold but we were essentially in a cloude the whole day, so it never got 100% dry and much of Burbage South was green anyway. Led this after Eddie backed off the starting moves. Those were ok but the finishing crack proved to be a bit of a battle due to being covered in slimy lichen. Poor footholds didn't help. Was pleased to find out it was 5b as felt very hard for 5a! The jams were good but painful. Also had a couple of goes at Nosferatu on a top rope that Brian, Ian W and Mike T had set up. Got all the moves second go (warm fingers helped) but would have needed a few more goes to link it.
Misha - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Ed

slacky - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Andes, Gary

Fell off moving right for the finishing crack.
DavidR - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jul/10

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with lewis fraser

not good as a last climb of the day for me..
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/10 with jim

Mr. K - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/10 with Nia Fletcher, Sam Walker, John Lewis, Bryn Wood

John Lewis - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/10 with Nia

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with dominic

Finally did it! After my failure last time i came back fresh'ish' and brawled my way up it. Its surprisingly sustained and stenuous as there is little in the way of feet for most of it.
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 31/May/10 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Mark Williams

Very hard Hvs! was down as E1 and defo is .
Alistair Corbett - Lead dog - 23/May/10 with sam corbett

ajc - TR dnf - 23/May/10

joe1979 - Lead - 20/May/10

liamoloughlin - 2nd - 17/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

kfowler141 - Lead - 26/Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Apr/10

bigie bob - Solo O/S - 05/Mar/10

nia - Lead - 2010 with Kyle Wood

Good until the crack but entering it feels really unstable, even when in, it feels awkward. Tried on lead but couldn't get into the crack as too pumped after boulders - Hannah finished it off and i followed
disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 30/Oct/09 with Hannah Moulton

Matt Bennett - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/09 with Lewis Grey

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/09

Maxim2023 - Lead dnf - 16/Sep/09 with Matt Smith

Boy - Sep/09 with Nige Kershaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

opted for an armbar on dave's recommendation and it got stuck, ow. funny though
twigulus - Lead O/S - Aug/09

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 22/Jun/09 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd RP - 22/Jun/09

Tried to lead first, total failure! Only fell once on 2nd though!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/09 with Tom

Never HVS, well hard!
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Becca

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 09/May/09

nice technical first half, savage traditional second half!
tallsop - 2nd - Dec/08 with Dave Saxby

More Jamming practice needed
highrepute - Lead RP - 21/Sep/08

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 25/May/08 with George MacIntyre

Hidden - Solo - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Sent O/S - 11/Apr/08

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/07 with Polish Pete

couldn't feel my fingers so decided to retreat :)
whistler - Lead dnf - 12/Dec/07 with Dangerous Dave

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/07

tlr - 2nd - 13/Sep/07 with Pom

nai - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/07 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - Jun/07

One fall due to screwing up the traverse move and getting knackered. Packs a real punch for such a short route
adam carless - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with SecretSquirrel

Seconded after falling on lead.
SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 19/May/07 with adam carless

adam carless - Lead - 19/May/07 with SecretSquirrel

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Al & Joe

tricky entering crack
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Steve Ramsden

climbingrick - Lead RP - 16/Aug/06

good god .. i take my hat of 2 anyone who does this in one clean lead ..this is hard
pauldr - Lead dog - 12/Aug/06 with phill

cem - Lead dog - 30/Jul/06 with Luke Whiting

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/06

aztec_bums - TR dog - 07/Jul/06 with phillip jennings

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/06 with oliver pickles

Pumpy little number... felt harder than HVS
loonyclimber - Lead - 18/Jun/06

shoulders - Lead - 17/Sep/05 with mike shewring

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 21/May/05

ChrisJD - 2nd - 16/May/05 with TimS & rc

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/05 with Rich Hatton

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead dnf - Oct/03

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/03

mark s - 2003

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jul/02

simon kimber - Lead dog - 2002 with Rob Barr, Tony Penning

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Oct/01

Dogged on pre-placed gear - oh the shame!
Siderunner - Lead dog - 28/Jul/01 with Steve G

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 01/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/01 with Kath Donohue

Gman - 2nd O/S - Aug/00 with Carl

Utterly gripped on finishing crack
jamiev - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/00 with Adrian Berry and John Arran

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 28/May/00 with Matt Brennan

Hidden - Lead - Apr/00

tlr - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

ajc - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/99

John Marsland - Lead - 26/Jun/99 with Mark Tolver

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - TR - Apr/99

Phil West - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/98 with David Atherton

Tim Bateman - Lead - 20/Aug/95

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Steve Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/95

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 07/May/95

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/92

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/92 with TIm Dan & Their Dad

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Apr/92

mik1miller - Solo - 1992

Roget - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/91

Andy Say - Solo - 07/Aug/90

NickJH - Lead dog - Jun/90 with I Smith, D Townsend

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/86

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/86

stp - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/84

Mark Kemball - Solo - 07/Oct/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, AlexxelA, psychomansam, jeffsheard

Voting
Total votes cast 103
hard E10 of 38
E12 of 38
easy E123 of 38
hard HVS12 of 38
HVS1 of 38
easy HVS0 of 38
hard VS0 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard 5c0 of 37
5c0 of 37
easy 5c3 of 37
hard 5b18 of 37
5b16 of 37
easy 5b0 of 37
hard 5a0 of 37
5a0 of 37
easy 5a0 of 37
3 Stars1 of 28
2 Stars9 of 28
1 Star17 of 28
0 Stars1 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed16 of 147 (10.9%)
Lead84 of 147 (57.1%)
Followed35 of 147 (23.8%)
Toproped4 of 147 (2.7%)
Bouldered1 of 147 (0.7%)
Unknown7 of 147 (4.8%)

'Climbed'61 of 147 (41.5%)
clean O/S45 of 147 (30.6%)
clean β3 of 147 (2.0%)
clean rpt3 of 147 (2.0%)
clean RP3 of 147 (2.0%)
dogged22 of 147 (15.0%)
dnf10 of 147 (6.8%)