Rockfax Description
Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Gaz of Bath 08/Oct Lead RP
Louishmouis 04/Aug Solo G/U
Ewano 15/Jun Lead dnf

Ballsed it on the ground up and made a mess of my chin. Way too hot

CharlieMack 04/Jun TR RP

Second go. Much harder than I thought, two moves I've got to pop for. May be back...

with Shunt
Gambit 17/May Lead RP

Great route, felt so good on the lead https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq3vhOBpWuE

with OlI
Gambit 14/May TR RP

This will go, just need a cold day and a spotter

with Alone
theomoore 10/May Lead O/S

pleased to onsight this. would have certainly hit the floor from the top crux with my light belayer. scary but great.

with Roisin
NDD 24/Apr Solo G/U

Nice one, wanted to try this for ages. Got the beta off Malcolm.

with Malcolm
malx ?/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR O/S
petegunn 27/Oct/14 TR
with Davina
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Solo β
Ross.Cooper 29/Mar/14 TR dog

Tenuous and damp...

Gus 01/Mar/14 Solo
with ben rouse
atapper21 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Top rope to get it sorted, fine route with some tenuous moves!

pie_eater_pete 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with bwestwood
bwestwood 30/Nov/13 Lead RP
Bennykr 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Top roped to get warmed up. Climbing is pretty steady

admackie 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt

much easier than the hvs I fell off later

sopaz 05/Oct/13 2nd dog

Epic. Fell on the bottom bit a few times...

with Mackie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Solo
with Dan McManus
w.pettet-smith 05/Mar/13 Lead

fell off low down first time. found thumb sprag move rather ominous, had to have a word with myself beforehand at that ledge.oh my days. very exciting. first grit e5

with sean
Sidekick 02/Mar/13 Sent
mark20 02/Mar/13 Sent β
Jay C 02/Mar/13 Lead

Worked it on a top rope, then lead. Awesome route.

with Josh T, LUMC
kingholmesy ??/2013 Solo β


Hidden 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S
J.Wells 15/Nov/12 Solo β
BenNorman 11/Nov/12 Solo

Ground up, second go after coming off boulder problem once, felt real smooth apart from slight wobble on big reach at the top, tip toe stuff, buzzing.

pie_eater_pete 27/Oct/12 Lead RP

Couple of goes on top rope just to make sure, then went for the lead. Perfect conditions

with bwestwood
Harry Chaplin 07/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fourth attempt, two of which on top rope

Hidden 05/May/12 TR
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Sent dnf
Ethan 17/Mar/12 Lead


with Ted, Don Walker
alaan 02/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Brilliant and a wee bit scary - longer arms would have been reeeally nice!

Hidden ??/2012 -
pipof747 26/Sep/11 Lead RP
al123 16/Jun/11 Solo

ground up. got a rope lowered by some passing climbers as i was on the ledge when it started raining and i wasnt sure of the next move (cheers to who ever that was). left it for a while then came back and soloed it without much trouble, amazing route, first E5.

Lewis Andrew 16/Apr/11 Solo rpt
jacobjacob 20/Mar/11 Lead RP

Ground up. Fell off the boulder problem start then sorted it out second go. Placed about 5 bits of gear less than Ian!

i_a_coops 20/Mar/11 Lead

Ground up. Thank god for Jacob's gear!

with Jacob
harvie 18/Mar/11 Lead β
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
C coldwell-storry 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Vickers
Guy Wilson 03/Nov/10 TR
with Rick Cotgreave & Gavin Moy
nathanlee 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S

A touch worrying...

with Dom Lee
jamesturnbull ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
FlorianCastagne 25/Sep/10 Lead dog

Ground up ascent after 4 tries in the boulder start before placing the first gear.

with Nathan Rosenfeld
Hidden ?/Apr/10 TR dog
bigie bob 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
A Downing 31/Jan/10 TR RP
with Ben Monkton
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
nathanmanc 29/Oct/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 11/Oct/09 Lead RP
with Alice
akhughes 24/Sep/09 Lead β

Excellent route. Difficulties low down and probably only 6a. A good route for the on sight or flash. could easily become ruined with top roping.

with Tony Stone
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 24/Jul/09 TR dog
Hidden 25/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Solo RP
Lewis Andrew 15/Mar/09 Solo RP

good few attempts on tope rope. got psyched up and went for it. awesome route. glad i did it.

with Rich Armour
Dan 85 15/Mar/09 TR
with Lewi & Rich
john lynch 13/Mar/09 TR

amazing! would love to solo it someday.

with Lewis Andrew, rich armour
liamoloughlin ?/Mar/09 Solo RP

Clean first go on a rope. Fell off first move on lead! Got it second go...

Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
mattcyp88 21/Feb/09 Lead RP

Headpoint. Cleaned on top rope first time.

drysori 13/Feb/08 Solo RP

As the sun set. Sticky grit day it would seem!

Hidden 01/Nov/07 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Oct/07 Solo RP
Ram MkiV 02/Oct/07 Solo O/S

superb moves right from leaving the deck. Was very disappointed to not be able to reach the break having stood up off the ledge. moved feet around and used every mm of reach to piano play into the break whilst battling panic. scary.

Dave Bond 14/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Solo β
BoulderMonster 30/Jun/06 TR RP

fantastic climb must go back and do agin love to lead

Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 15/Jun/05 Lead
with Spence
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo β
Chris Reid 24/Apr/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
Hidden 21/Oct/00 TR
Vince Smedley 09/Oct/00 Solo β
with Anton
WuDavid ??/2000 -
sadams 08/Jun/99 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Apr/99 2nd
with Mike Weeks
r0b 14/Apr/99 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
Laramadness 15/Apr/97 Solo
switch ??/1996 Solo O/S
marconi ??/1996 Lead RP
with Darren T
Davros the Psyched ??/1996 Solo O/S
Laramadness 27/Apr/95 2nd
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Cowflinger ?/May/92 TR
innes ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 TR
Rob Davies ?/Sep/91 TR dog
Pedro50 07/Jul/87 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Solo RP

Top roped several times, eventually on a slack rope then soloed it.

Hidden ??/1983 Lead
mark-abz 28/Mar/82 TR
with Andy W
KRB 01/Apr/80 Solo O/S

Put all my trust into my EBs and suprised myself this day. Subsequently soloed in a pac-a mac (as you did in those days!

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set