Rockfax Description
From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough. © Rockfax

FFA. Henry Barber 1973

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Hidden 10/Oct 2nd rpt
Felix la shat 20/Sep Lead O/S
dom94 19/Sep Lead O/S
amccann 19/Sep Lead β

On Dom's gear.

Jake Young 19/Sep Lead β

A Grit Day Out !

with Fabritzio, Dom, Tom Appleby, Alex M, Nick
Teappleby 19/Sep Lead

Much harder than gates of mordor. Did it after one false start but it was close!!

Hidden 11/Sep 2nd
gavinpeach 06/Sep Lead G/U

Nice steep climbing. Foot popped off on the starting moves but climbed clean on the second attempt. Feels more E1 5b than E2.

with Andy
andy.smythe 06/Sep 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug Lead
pearson9596 15/Aug Lead rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug 2nd β
Cake 09/Aug Lead O/S


Hidden 02/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul Lead rpt
KeenClimber 18/Jul 2nd O/S
with Jim Nutall
clairejane ?/Jul Lead dnf

Hot, should'na got on but psyche... was greasing off and being a twit.

with will
Hidden 28/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun 2nd
JamieSparkes 21/Jun 2nd O/S

Quite sustained hard work, with a stiff crux near the top going to a disconcertingly wobbly jug, which spoils the route a bit.

Liam Ingram 21/Jun Lead dog

Compulsory post-crux jug is very wobbly so jumped off. Finished it off after calming down a bit. The hold is probably well wedged but it does detract from the route a bit.

Bernie L 11/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd β
jshields 25/May Lead
jamesturnbull 23/May Lead
with rich howells
andy_e 17/May 2nd dog
FlavioL1989 17/May 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 17/May Lead O/S
with Flavio
gritnit 21/Apr 2nd

Came off once from high handhold for right hand on right wall, remedied by bringing left hand higher in crack . Steep,sustained and good. Excellent lead by Jon.

DanOsb 02/Apr 2nd

pumpy little number

with phil b
andybirtwistle ??/2015 -
nathanlee 25/Oct/14 Lead

Flailed on this years ago, can see why! Good warmup

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 25/Oct/14 2nd
Nick1812P 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Dan, Ben
benkelsey 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

after a bit of faffing

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead β
jkarran 07/Sep/14 2nd

Tough getting the gear out in from stress positions. Good climbing though.

with Aly
WB 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead
lena.drapella 27/Aug/14 2nd dnf
with Benjamin Corbey
KamilJ 19/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Dan
dannyboy83 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Kamil, Lena
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 24/Jul/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 -
pearson9596 12/Jul/14 Lead dog
onlyfoddington 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

A really pumpy start which proved far to pumpy for me.

with Michael
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Mattlamb90 05/Jul/14 Lead β

Lead on ry's gear

with Ryan
spidey 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
Rachel Slater 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Steve Franklin
Andrew Barker 28/Apr/14 Lead β

Got very pumped. Must climb more routes.

with Si
mike mo ??/2014 -
uphillnow ??/2014 -
morganator 21/Sep/13 Lead

Pumpy, especially so as it was damp

Rich Kirby 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Helen
soph 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lovely and pretty sustained route! Shame that the crucial top block is very wobbly and worrying.

with James O
James Oswald 10/Sep/13 2nd dog

With cold hands so really struggled. Tough. Got grit in my eye at the top.

with Masa
Ramon Marin 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The only route at Millstone that feels right at the grade... meaning easy! :)

with ciaran tracey
Ciro 01/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Still found the first few moves pretty hard, but the rest of the route felt much easier now that I'm starting to get the hang of this jamming malarky. Lovely moves at the very top, especially with a top rope allowing the confidence to dyno :)

with Ramon
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Shouldn't have warmed up on this, just scraped over the top.

Wayne S 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Brannock 27/Jul/13 2nd
Brannock 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
rurp 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

More like e1 5c. hard off ground and short. E2 with no mat

climberchristy 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Well protected so easy E2 but crux is a long reach that felt hard for 5b? Maybe just cos I did it last route of a tiring day?

with Ben Cole
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 06/May/13 -

No way on gods green Earth is this E2 Hard 5b to start hard 5a above very very nice

Hidden ?/May/13 2nd
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
James Oswald 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Hard. I reckon bang on at E2 as it says in the Rockfax guide. Gear is really awesome. There is a wobbly hold near the top that really needs to be pulled on.....! Couldn't see a way of not using it. Super

Mr. K 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Lots of rests, pumpy as hell!

Somerset swede basher 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Roxy, Rob
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Misha 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Only 5b - because every move is 5b, apart from the last few pulls, which are thankfully 5a! Hard to start but gets easier but pumpier.

with Ian W
Stoney Boy 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Conway
aretherenoneleft 16/May/12 Lead O/S
tom.e 12/May/12 Lead β
with Ben Silvestre
khawk 12/May/12 Lead dog
with DT
lithos 29/Mar/12 2nd

pete crusied it as usual. Nice moves and holds.

with pete harris
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/12 2nd rpt

A day of perfect weather.

with Rob Stone, Peter Harris
Apharri 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Matt Cooke 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 07/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with gaz
Dave Foster 01/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Absolutely agree with Cragrat Rich, the start's despo til just short of half way then the angle eases and the holds improve. Attempted the lead for the second time but couldn't commit to the moves up to the ledge. Handed over to Robin who crushed it with good technique and a solid head. E2 for sure.

with Robin
robin_hackney 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Pleased to see it gets E2. It felt hard for E1! Really well protected route if you don't drop half your nuts on the floor!

JRae 08/Sep/11 Lead
ste_d 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 26/Jul/11 Lead RP

Ground up!! So pumped

with loundsy
markfairbank 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Soft for E2 i'm sure, but i'll take it for my first :)

with Ray Sharples
Graeme Hammond 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing, no real hard moves, but never a proper rest and you must hang on to place the excellent gear, though every hold is bigger than expected. Just about E2 I think.

Jim Slater 19/Jul/11 2nd O/S
w.pettet-smith 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead
dan gibson 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Ahab ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
chrisbussell 28/Jun/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead
Shauna 09/Jun/11 2nd rpt

felt like the living end!

thomasadixon 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route, pumpy but never too hard, just keep on moving!

with Alan
Reaver2k 01/Jun/11 2nd
bullwinkle 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with John
victim of mathematics 19/May/11 2nd dog

Fell off after all difficulties as I was too pumped to hold the enormous jugs. Gutted.

soph 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead O/S
JRae 11/May/11 2nd
with P Latham
Boy 19/Apr/11 Lead
with Boggo
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 2nd
with smooth
dj_brigham05 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
cymjt ??/2011 -
J.Wells 26/Sep/10 2nd β
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Sep/10 Lead dog

Fell off at the good ledge 2/3 of way up cudn't get the jams in properly. So pumpy. Found the move 3/4 of way up to get the moving ledge really hard had to pop for it off flat side pull fell 1st time got it second. Felt like 5C it prob is 5b if I could do 5b jamming, or really tall. Then took bigger fall bout 20ft off the big falt holds at top so so pumped. Fun though great route. After rest finished it off.

with johny
Dan Lane 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S

get flash pumped as it was the first route of the day.

with James McHaffie
Mr Wild 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
PeteH 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Pumpy but always able to get a shake-out when you need it, and bombproof gear.

with Chris Fox
dominic lee 11/Jul/10 Lead rpt
OliBoyes 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Barr
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 04/Jul/10 Lead β
with Oli
vanderz 28/Jun/10 Lead dog
andrea83 28/Jun/10 TR dog

FANTASTIC!!! Such a lovely climb. Must be sustained on lead, had easier time top roping after Pat who removed gear. Had a fall as came out of balance.

disturbed_one51 25/Jun/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 25/Jun/10 Lead

Really enjoyed it, watch the loose hold at 2/3's height!

Ollie B 31/May/10 Lead
with M.Sharpe
sharpie530 31/May/10 2nd
with ollie b
mark20 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Thought I was off the crux! Solid 5b all the way

Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 18/May/10 Lead dnf

oops - far too hard for me to be honest.

with Steve
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd dog
Kirk 14/May/10 2nd dog
with P Harris, Crofty
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd rpt
gordonday 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with clive
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Adam Potter 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
joese7en ??/2010 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 30/Oct/09 Lead

This was a clean lead coming three years after a failed attempt and subsequent seconding. Still hard despite the knowledge gained previously. Problem with this climb is, the start leads you to think it's gonna be alot harder than it turns out to be, so it's hard to keep the spirits up onsight!

Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead RP
simonp ?/Oct/09 Lead β
with Annelies Sarrazyn
James Oakes 13/Sep/09 Lead β

Lead on bills gear till about 1/2 way, then lead rest placing gear...

with Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
mattyork2 05/Sep/09 2nd
with James Karran and Grante!
jkarran 05/Sep/09 Lead

No hard moves, no easy moves, no proper rests... not my strong suit! This took everything I had and was in doubt to the very last hold. Fantastic :)

with Matt, Grant
GrantB 05/Sep/09 2nd
with James
Hidden 27/Aug/09 Lead dog
sadams 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Es Tresidder
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
highrepute 20/Aug/09 2nd
Joe Costello 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Liam
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Hudson
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Tony Holdsworth 03/Jun/09 2nd rpt


with Peter Harris
Andrew Sloan 10/May/09 Lead dog

Dogged all the way, really need to build up my stamina!

with scott
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd dog
Si dH 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Soft for E2 - felt more like a hard E1. Really good route, just a shame it doesnt go on another few moves longer! (and then it would be E2 as well!)

with Chris Foster
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Dave Rumney 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Sean Roberts
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/08 Lead
with al & andy
andy gravestock 24/Jul/08 Lead β
with steve and al
Coel Hellier 22/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead dog
Ian Parnell 04/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Adrian Berry
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead dog
nai 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tim
tlr 20/Jun/08 2nd
with Pom
alaan 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/08 Lead O/S
jamesturnbull ?/May/08 Lead
with fraser
davidgent ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lydia
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Sep/07 TR
pelvoux 09/Sep/07 Lead dog

Too pump to do the last move. First E2

with Mario
ieverett ?/Sep/07 TR
with Richard Guest
danm ?/Sep/07 2nd
cem 13/Aug/07 2nd
with Ian Frith
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17/Jun/07 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Andrew Sloan 16/Sep/06 Lead dnf
Andrew Sloan 28/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

sustained hard E1 really pumpy tho with gradual ease.

with mick radford
Ben1983 ?/Jun/06 Lead dog
shark 24/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with Bruce Woodley
Ropeboy 04/Jun/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Hidden 17/Apr/04 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Fowkes
Hidden 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 16/Sep/01 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 21/Jun/01 Lead
skygodley 11/May/01 Lead O/S
Roget 06/May/01 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/01 2nd
Phill Mitch ??/2001 Lead O/S
with gaz
ian caton ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 2nd
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/98 Lead dog
babymoac 30/May/98 Lead dog
John Marsland 28/Aug/94 2nd
with Allen Newby
Hidden 02/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/94 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
charlesmfrench 16/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
Tony Little 18/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Merk
Hidden 07/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/92 2nd
NickJH ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
neilh 20/Sep/91 Lead
with sara hyde
Rob Davies 24/Aug/91 TR
leathers ??/1990 2nd
with James Thomas
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
tapley 10/Dec/89 2nd
Hidden 16/May/89 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
KRB 17/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Tom V ??/1984 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Mark Kemball 16/Sep/81 2nd
with John Jefferies
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Aug/77 -
with Phil Smith
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ralphio, Pok, Hidden, Bernie L, Calum Wadsworth, theomoore, mapperley samurai, robw007, alexjz, dr_botnik, Owen W-G, RFWilkie, pc1983, robin_hackney, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, Hidden, Hidden, Sam1991, alimckay, Hidden, Hidden, blancbleu, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set