10m.

Rockfax Description
The polished razor-edged iron bits (above a lurking flake) lead left then back right to the top of the slab. Escape via Great Slab. The only gear is a large cam above all difficulties. Stiff boots are a great help. © Rockfax

FA. Jonathan Lagoe 29/Aug/1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Consumed, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Teappleby 06/May Solo O/S

Lots of moves off the final big foot hold to the slot because I'm short. Lovely climbing.

tom russell 24/Apr Lead RP
with Dunc Campbell
sparkass 24/Apr Lead RP

Decided to just sack the onsight and just get on it. Glad, seems very fluffable. Great moves, heart in mouth going for the jug.

JimHolmes69 12/Mar Lead O/S
AndyPratt88 12/Mar 2nd O/S
with Jim
Ed morris 26/Aug/15 Solo O/S
with -
adi bryant 18/Jul/15 TR rpt
Ram MkiV 09/Jun/15 Solo O/S

Bit grim and sketchy up to the decent footholds but worth it for the move to the slot

Nick1812P 11/May/15 Solo O/S

3 pads. I found the last move to the pocket the hardest/most improbable, probably just scared though.

DanielGyi 15/Apr/15 TR RP

Ouch

Tommy Moore 26/Oct/14 TR O/S

Got it first go but subsequent attempts were poorer.

with Olly, Ash Sayers
DavidPC 22/Jul/14 TR

A few slips on the same move in the middle. Got it after about 4 tries

with Jamie Lilley
Jack Loftus 01/Jul/14 TR RP
Hidden 21/Jun/14 TR dog
mike mo ??/2014 -
spidermonkey09 30/Nov/13 Solo O/S

Awesome route, first E5 (is it?) really glad I went for the onsight instead of top roping it- wouldn't make much difference anyway. Resoled and clean shoes definitely helped!

Chris Redding 02/Sep/13 TR O/S

Thin... wierd how well you stick to the slab though

Jack93 02/Sep/13 TR
JakeWShaw 14/Mar/13 Solo dnf

Volunteered to go first. Didn't get anywhere as anticipated and scared the others off trying in the process even with all the pads!

Tony Kartawick ??/2013 Solo O/S
Ethan 23/Sep/12 Solo
with Ted, Ed, Don Walker
markalmack 15/Sep/12 Solo RP

didn't get scared today. felt fine.

efrance24234 15/Jul/12 Solo rpt
Jen Crook 12/Jun/12 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jun/12 TR O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Sent dnf
Adam Coles ??/2012 Solo O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
bleddynmawr ??/2012 -
GraMc 17/Sep/11 Lead RP

first E5 physced!!, climbed with no mats till half height, then decided they were a good idea!!, decided to bum slide off just before the crux first go, then got it clean second time

with pete abernethy, dave brigham, emily roo
Ben Taggart-Ryan 30/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 30/Apr/11 TR
misterb 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

no pads ,soft for e5 .

with sim
rikbattye 21/Apr/11 Solo O/S
jimmyrua 09/Apr/11 Lead β
with Glaswegian folk
Chris J Houston 09/Apr/11 Lead β

Epic, scary...

with The Dumby Team
dj_brigham05 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ali_robb ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
cliffrad 11/Mar/11 Solo β
jacobjacob 11/Mar/11 Solo O/S
C coldwell-storry 08/Mar/11 Solo O/S
with Adam Gill, Phil Vickers
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/11 TR dog
with Morgan Preece
harvie ??/2011 Solo O/S
mwatson ??/2011 Solo dnf
Peter Holder 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

got to trust your feet and have super stong finger nails for the edges. Safe with a spotter, as long as you don't mind sliding down a slab.

Diggler 16/Oct/10 Solo dnf

First attempt at an E5 onsight.6a slab easy I thought!!! Until I realised that it wasn't smearing but climbing on 3mm edges. 1/4 of the way up to the pocket bailed off tried again got no further then gave in. Back after some practice on slate possibly!!!

with Calder
nathanlee 08/Sep/10 Solo O/S
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 08/Sep/10 Solo O/S
akhughes 03/Sep/10 Lead rpt

blew onsight from 8m up when rubber came off shoes edge. Got it next go.

pete87abs 16/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Solo O/S
rclarke ?/Aug/10 TR β
DKclimb 04/Jul/10 2nd β
Chris_barr 04/Jul/10 Solo O/S

Really good if a little high.

with Oli
Gazleah ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
with adam radcliff
jowgli 16/Jun/10 Solo RP

first e5, pretty scary but not too ridiculous

with nai
AB1965 31/May/10 -

with rich b, 20 years after doing it on site, it stills feels thin but great

John 'B' Hutchinson 14/Apr/10 TR O/S

Flashed on a top rope. REALLY wish I'd just gone for the onsight. Next time I'm there will be jumping straight on it. Great moves.

with Kev Shields
Hidden 14/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 09/Apr/10 TR dnf
Boy 08/Apr/10 -
Hidden 27/Mar/10 TR dnf
drysori ?/Mar/10 TR

Easy, but also easy to fall off!

Trefo 18/Oct/09 Solo O/S

My hardest route. Fantastic moves on tiny edges, requiring the best of footwork. Recommended to me by Si. My sort of route. Felt so alive on the hard crux and let out a yelp of excitement as I latched the jug 6ft below the finish. Please don't top rope this route.Its going to wreck it!!!!!Go for the onsight and get a spotter!!

with Si Litchfield
smallerrich 12/Sep/09 Solo O/S

Eeep.

with Ollie Wragg
belay bunny turned bad 10/Sep/09 TR O/S

Should have led it but it looked harder than it was. Plus no mats :(

Hidden 10/Sep/09 TR dog
ebf 05/Sep/09 TR O/S

Damned hard, but very nice if you have the courage! The bottom half (to the big pocket) is very slippery, the top half not so much - is that where everyone falls (or backs) off??? lol

pastep 05/Sep/09 TR
with ebf
DaveFidler 14/Jun/09 Solo dnf

Got to last move and reversed it. WTF?

hamish2016 23/May/09 Solo RP

Climbed this clean on a top rope then did the solo.

Hidden 25/Apr/09 TR dog
Franco Cookson OLD ??/2009 Lead O/S

Soft. bit sketchy. Quite nice.

Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin ?/Oct/07 Solo RP

Not that bad if you trust your feet. Crux is easier for the tall.

Somerset swede basher 16/Jun/07 Lead β
with Aly Robertson
thrutch ?/May/07 TR dog

I thoought I'd cruise this as its a slab and my speciality. Not a chance!!!!

with helen
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Solo RP
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Solo RP
danrhodes1987 ??/2007 TR RP
with Craig Burgan
Pythonist 17/Sep/06 TR RP

Could I do it again after 3 years cleanly? No, and it's really odd how the memory changes the holds!

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Jul/06 Solo RP

Good route!

co1ps ?/May/05 Solo β
with Dave O'farrel
Hidden ??/2005 -
Pythonist 05/Sep/03 Lead RP
Gus ?/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/02 TR
Hidden ??/2002 -
chrishedgehog 21/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Sandra and M. Gill
Lepista 23/Jul/00 TR
Ropeboy 17/Oct/99 Solo
Obi-Wan is lost... 24/Sep/97 Solo
tuftynick ??/1997 Lead O/S

1st E5

with ciaran troup
Davros the Psyched ??/1997 Solo O/S
cornishben ??/1996 TR O/S
with Lee Anderson
Spottykidfromstourbridge ?/May/95 Solo O/S

1 that crash pads wud defo make easier

rc ??/1995 2nd
with Alex
mattnuttall 13/Jul/93 Solo O/S
adi bryant ?/Jun/93 Solo O/S
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/92 TR
with Bill G
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 TR
craig d ??/1992 -
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
Rob Davies 24/Aug/91 TR

Sustained on small edges

charlesmfrench 29/Apr/90 2nd
with Pog
Gambit ?/Sep/89 Solo RP
with Rob, Barney
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead O/S
richrox ??/1988 TR
mark-abz 02/Sep/87 TR
with Andy W
Alan James - UKC and UKH 08/Jul/87 Solo RP
Billg 16/Apr/87 Solo O/S
steve taylor ??/1987 TR
Hidden ??/1987 -
bleddynmawr ??/1987 -
Hidden ?/Aug/86 TR
AB1965 09/Jun/86 Solo
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 Solo
Ian Clare ??/1986 -
Hidden ?/Jun/85 Solo RP
John Marsland 10/Jun/84 TR
Steve Lewis 27/May/84 Solo
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 28/Aug/82 TR
with Dave Abbey
Mark Kemball 26/Jun/82 TR
AlanLittle ??/1982 TR
Chris Craggs ??/1980 TR
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 29/Aug/77 Lead RP

The true first ascent and called "Slideshow" MXS 5c. Toproped once before leading it. After work one evening.

with Phil Smith
Sean Kelly ??/1977 2nd

Very early ascent possibly 2nd repeat?

with Bob Millward
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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Style of ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set