Crewcut** HVS 4c
[Millstone laybacking, 2 kb]22m. An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack, fortunately it is easier than it looks. Threaded chockstones or large Friend runners protect. Those heading Stateside might want to ‘off-width' it just for the practice - a different ball-game! © ROCKFAX
FA. Alan Clarke 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Wide Cracks, Millstone HVS's, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

Photo: Millstone laybacking © Andy Beanland
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 162 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Stateside baby !!!
gazfellows - Lead - 25/Oct/14 with Billy

madasten - 2nd - 25/Oct/14 with Gaz

Climbed this as an offwidth, utterly desperate!
adam 24 - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14 with Stuart Johnston

Climbed betting full involved with jams in the off width. Felt like E2!
Stuart Johnston - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Adam Ryan

First half of the climb is protected by two chockstone threads. Protected the top section with a number 11 Black Diamond Hexentric. Biggest cam we had was a number 3 Camalot, which was too small.
cragsman9000 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Neil

bob_cbr - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with cragsman9000

robgixer - 2nd - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

Dirty route
Mattlamb90 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Ryan

spidey - 2nd - 05/Jul/14 with mat lamb

Backed off as wouldn't committ to the upper crack without a big cam.
Giles Davis - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/14 with Dan Roberts

Hmmm, couldn't even get this on second. Really tough.
Giles Davis - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/14 with Dan Roberts

NICE layback..
adi bryant - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with Sam

Chris M - 2nd - 10/Jun/14 with John B

Chris M - AltLd - 10/Jun/14 with John B

Excellent fun. Did it on a dry day, wouldn't like to try it if at all damp. Got a good big hex on the top section, as well as the no 5 cams.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Stve mc D

Marvellous. One No. 4 cam (the big silver one) is sufficient.
planetmarshall - Lead - 17/May/14 with Chris Brooke

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Andrew Marshall

farkas.time - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13 with Aaron Comeault

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/13

Been wanting to try this for ages, but didn't get the result I hoped for. Backed off when I realised that even Pat's biggest cams weren't big enough and the only gear was going to be the low chockstone.
treg - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/13 with Patrick

sputnik - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13

mark4344 - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/13 with Andreas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Backed off after 2nd chockstone as didn't have big enough gear :(
MikeLell - Lead dnf - 07/May/13 with Chris Gudgeon

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Chris Allan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13

WillDoyle - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Physical! Was even forced to resort to laybacking at one point. Definitely felt like an HVS-worth of effort!
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Adam

quite brutal offwidthing, got a knee properly stuck at one point. Definitely worth looking left & right for other holds.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with victim of mathematics

pie_eater_pete - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12

Peter Reynolds - 06/Oct/12

Good scary-ish fun. Straightforward laybacking, but was glad of the big cams. Worth HVS without, I would think.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Tim

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/12

Lead on Rob's gear as it was in already. With our kit it was definitely HVS. Perhaps with a couple of Camalot size 5's it could be top end VS. No easier than David (HVS4c) though
psychomansam - Lead β - 01/Sep/12

A sandbag at VS. The 3 E2s I did in Wales last week were less strenuous than this.Take number 4 camelots!
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 16/Aug/12 with Tim

langirl - TR dog - 23/Jul/12

cleaned it up a bit, much better and easier than it looks! only 2 chockstones now though, one below the first ledge and one you can sling from the first ledge. a number 4 ish cam will just about fit in the bottom of the upper section from the second ledge.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with David Kirsfelds

David Kay - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Jamie Sparks

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Perhaps my most memorable route of the day. Got my knee well and truely jammed near the chockstone and had to stay focussed to free it without the aid of mtn rescue/fire brigade! Staying calm and cold got me out in the end :-) Next time, Ill stick to laybacking it, or work out a foot jam which keeps my knee on the outside of the crack.
robin_hackney - 2nd dog - 05/May/12 with Si

Sunny and warm here. Part of wide crack program so tried to offwidth it but couldn't get knee into crack so had to resort to layback. Managed very insecure offwidth ascent of first half on top rope afterwards but still had to layback the top part
harold walmsley - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/12

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Jake

tsjx - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Andy Lole, Ric Moat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

Dirk Uhlig - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11

Only possible by moving my largest cam up the crack after each move. hard for VS.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Matt Payne

cheeky - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Mark Philipson

Hidden - TR - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd RP - 01/Jun/11

shaky2 - Lead - 01/Jun/11 with jamie

Amazing, worth 3 stars??, One of the best lay backs I've ever done, only found one chock stone right at the bottom! should I have looked harder?? Friend 4 only just fitted at the rest ledge, too busy enjoying the 'ride' for anything else.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Becky E, james pcc

Becky E - 2nd - 31/May/11 with Graeme Hammond

Just when you think it can't get worse... it does.
stuaart - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Chris Burn

chris_B - Lead - 21/May/11 with stuart reeves

vs=very scary I think
chris_B - Lead - 21/May/11 with stuart reeves

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Katy Vose

absolutely stinking route! read the guide book nxt time
bigdan050 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Tosh

ha ha, Dan sandbagged himself, try reading the guide book. easy laybacking route, hard non laybacking route. poorly protected.
wishicud climbHVS - 2nd - 11/Apr/11 with Big Fat Dan

Brown - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Henry

howifeel - Lead - 12/Mar/11 with Rick

pauldr - 2011

First chockstone loose - didn't fancy it after finding that.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/10 with Nick Mitchell

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 01/Sep/10 with sam, pabage

pabbage - 01/Sep/10

Terrific climb! Used the technique of (big) cam sliding while climbing up for the first time! This route well rivals Bond Street or even better!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Andy Rail

bold if you haven't got massive cams
SGD - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Rob Gray

rob1 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Stu Day, martin haworth

Chris M Thomas - AltLd - 24/Jul/10 with Luke

Only gear was 3 chocks. John did about a 7m layback between chocks. Very scary.
hellboundblr - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with John Bayliss

bit green on lower slab, feet skidded off going over bulge & fell onto 1st chockstone. Then picked myself up & led - just kept going till reached 3rd chockstone & bridge across. Rather bold, only gear = 3 chockstones; none of my cams big enough for that crack.
john_ni - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Bryan Lewis

good fun yosmite training. I off-width it, felt safe but was slow progress scwirming my way up. will cum back and lead b4 yosmite.
Dale - 2nd O/S - Jul/10 with rob

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/10 with Ben Burns

geddicakes - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Paul Phillips

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 11/Jun/10 with Jane Rigby

JRigby - 2nd - Jun/10

John Pickles - 2nd - 27/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Pown - 2nd - 05/May/10

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10

tonanf - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Paul R

Maybe should be HVS 4c without a massive cam - VS 4c with.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Colin Binks

Very tough and commiting! Someone lent dad a size 5&6 cams!
dashitboarder - 2nd - 23/Aug/09 with Dad

Tobes - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09

Matthallinan - Lead - 14/May/08 with Nicky Winn

Graham led, not bad if you dont stop, big red cam makes it safe.
Pilch - 2nd O/S - 08/May/08 with Graham

Hidden - Lead dog - Feb/08

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

Grimbough - 2nd - 02/Nov/07 with Tim Steward

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Seb P

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/07

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Cat Higgs

tom.ireson - TR O/S - 01/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06 with alex at home

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/06 with John Nightingale

Very good, HVS not VS
Si dH - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/06 with Kane Chandler

Wonderful in a slightly mental way. A fine christening for my two new big cams. Rather green making some of the layback moves quite worrying.
TobyA - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Matthew Higginson

Glad I was seconding - it allowed me to layback the whole crack - excellent use of two big cams by Toby
Matthew Higginson - 2nd - 01/Jun/06 with Toby Archer

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/05

Hidden - 2005

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

Stig - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/03 with Geraldine Lawless

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/03

Hidden - 2002

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/May/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Banjo

cragspud - Lead O/S - 1998

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997

colin milton - Lead - 06/May/95 with eric milton

astrecks - Lead β - Jun/93 with Mike S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/90

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/89 with Justin Shiels, Jack Rossindale

steve prior - Lead - Jul/88 with Rob W

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

John Marsland - 2nd - 13/Jun/87 with Mark

Hidden - 1987

babymoac - Lead - 15/Jun/86 with Rich Reeder

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1986 with Phil

andy gittins - 1985

tapley - 2nd - 01/Jul/84 with Tony Charles

John Marsland - Lead - 17/Jun/84 with Gill Peacegood, Dave Mould, Mark Cohen

Tom V - 1984

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

mark-abz - Lead - 1982 with ?

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1982

nbotting - 1982

ewar woowar - 1982

johnny20whales - Lead - 13/Jun/81

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Ken Taylor - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/80 with Steve Pogmore

Hidden - Lead - 02/Mar/80

jasper11 - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 25/Nov/79

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 10/Jul/79

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1979

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/78

Al Evans - 1976

Nigel Bond - 03/Sep/75 with Tony Cuddy

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead - 1975

rogerskews - 1972 with Dane Atkins

mikej - 2nd - 29/Jun/66 with Frank Chester

Spent ages excavating a chockstone to use as protection at the start of the layback. Not sure that it had ever been used before. However I could not quite commit to bridging out into the resting position before the chockstone protected finish.
mikej - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/66 with Frank Chester

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Duck Egg, WhipperSnapper, humptydumpty, MikeLell, kim.mulji, pc1983, Ander, Steve Waters, Mynydd, b.hayley, thinair48

Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E10 of 49
E10 of 49
easy E10 of 49
hard HVS0 of 49
HVS1 of 49
easy HVS25 of 49
hard VS13 of 49
VS10 of 49
easy VS0 of 49
hard 5a0 of 46
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easy 5a2 of 46
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4c38 of 46
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3 Stars8 of 46
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