Rockfax Description
Climb to the overhang and layback through it via a finger-crack to easier ground - awkward gear. Spoilt by a grotty exit. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Reading 1975

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day.

ian d f 11/Jul 2nd O/S
with Mark S, Tor
Hidden 11/Jul Lead
Hidden 28/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun 2nd β
Andy Fielding 19/Apr Lead dog
with Mike Walton, Paul Wright
goddamm7 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with mike walton, andy fielding
robgixer 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Robin Nichols 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jemma, Roger
Roget 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with robin
jonleighton 28/Jun/14 Lead dog
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Brown ??/2014 Lead
with James T
shouter 24/Jul/13 Lead
Graeme Hammond 08/May/13 Lead rpt

previously backed off in rain after having a rest. Still seemed fairly tough and very dirty and loose at the top.

with Jim
Yeknom ?/May/13 2nd O/S
henry peter jenkins 22/Apr/13 Lead O/S

early crux. remember seeing paul deck on this route :/

with dale clover
sebbo 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Bit of a struggle. Should've climbed earlier in the day not as the last climb when totally pooped. Found difficult to protect but mainly due to missing pieces of rack and lack of practice. Crux was still wet - not ideal!

rd20 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Tim Rodgers 21/Oct/12 AltLd dog
Kirill 20/Oct/12 2nd RP

Failed to lead, then seconded with difficulty.

SPD224 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim Hardwick, Martin Smith
cem 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

Got up to just below the roof on my first attempt (making life difficult for myself by not spotting a couple of holds) but backed off because I didn't trust my wire. Kirill then had a go before I got it on my second attempt (although not without a couple of rests after moving up to the roof and finding some decent gear)

papashango 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Charlie
Charlie Zephyr Booth 29/Sep/12 AltLd
disturbed_one51 01/Sep/12 Lead
mike lawrence? 14/Aug/12 Lead

The Nav placed most of the gear and then let me lead it.

with James the Navigator
martroberts 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Nice first half and grotty, loose, gritty top half which is such a shame

Pete Graham 01/Mar/12 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
DanC1985 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Martin
JYates 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Awsome route! bar the grotty exit

with Lawrence Ramsey
bullwinkle 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Bart, John
Hidden 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
stuaart 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
tonanf ?/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
mark20 20/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 -
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead dog
climbing_rocks1983 10/Jul/10 Lead dnf

KP finished off, the seconded clean

Hidden 20/Apr/10 2nd
gripped01 ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Rob Patchett
Ollie B 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

awesome moves on the main part of the route despite the grubby exit

with M.Sharpe
sharpie530 13/Mar/10 2nd
with ollie b
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
clairejane ??/2010 2nd
with gav
Ewano ??/2010 TR
melonmike 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
PeteH 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Great start, one good honest strenuous move, then extremely loose-looking stuff above that, which I avoided by finishing up Gimcrack (which wasn't much better, to be honest - covered in soil and sand.)

with Brad Cain
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Better section of rock than the guidebook suggests.

with Helen Lear
miastacey 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
summo ??/2009 -
ASchwirtz 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
Lewis Andrew ?/Oct/08 2nd
with John Lynch
Martin Haworth 17/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 17/Aug/08 2nd rpt

The best thing about this climb is the name; you can go into work on a monday morning and say 'I did the whore this weekend'!.......or, if you got spat off it like Martin did, 'the whore did me'!!!

Hidden 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S
IAmAStone 06/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom Parry
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Unexpectedly hard.

with Brian Q
Nicos 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with ryan
tom.ireson 18/Feb/08 Lead dog

So frustrating having all those cracks and not being able to get gear in without much faffing on almost every one! Awesome climb though, will definitely repeat sometime. Not too keen on the sandy dusty finish though.... put a small wire in at the last possible opportunity before mantling if you dont want to sweat all the way up the scrabbly bit.

with Jens Verhagh
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead dog
Somerset swede basher 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jim & Amanda
Andrew Sloan 09/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Richard
davidgent ?/Mar/07 2nd

lead clean in may 2008

with Luke
Lukey B ?/Mar/07 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Oli 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with Wayne
dan gibson 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead RP
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 07/Sep/05 Lead β
Hidden 11/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
zero six ??/2005 Lead O/S
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
nickdonohue ?/May/04 2nd
with Jim Barradale
phardman 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
reg_measures 04/Oct/02 2nd O/S
with hugh thomas
Hidden ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 22/Oct/00 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 21/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 26/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with Paul Kerr
Roget 12/Oct/97 2nd O/S
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
andybirtwistle 02/Oct/93 Lead
with Ed Williams, Steve Brewis
Hidden 25/Jun/93 2nd
uphillnow 26/Mar/93 -
Hidden 06/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/92 Solo O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 09/Sep/89 Lead
John Marsland 05/Nov/88 2nd
with Dave Soles
Hidden ??/1987 -
TonyF 10/May/85 Lead O/S
with George Fowler, Alistair Gordon
GordonHart ??/1985 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
nbotting ??/1982 -
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/81 Lead
with Steve Finch, Bill McKee
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Apr/76 -
with Al Baker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hannah Moulton
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set