UKC

9m.

Rockfax Description
A real classic and rite of passage which is hard work but well protected. Climb the short arete to runners, then lean out (large wire in the flake) and layback onto the flake. About face, and finish briskly. A traverse of the lip rightwards is the neglected Cockchafer, E5 6b. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Extreme Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Hard Grit history , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , 50 of the Best , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , 30 For My 30s , Classic Lobs , 2019 Targets , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Hard Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Before 2025 , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25 , Will's Whippers , Frogatt 30

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Reeve 1 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I thought 6b, although admitedly don't have a lot of experience at flashing this grade. I'm quite short though and could only get two fingers on the bottom of the flake from the side-pull, so maybe the discrepancy in opinions in the grade is an arm span thing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought 6b, although admitedly don't have a lot of experience at flashing this grade. I'm quite short though and could only get two fingers on the bottom of the flake from the side-pull, so maybe the discrepancy in opinions in the grade is an arm span thing.
goi.ashmore 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E5,6a for sure. Technically its not that bad, you just need to spend a little bit of time using your feet and thinking your way up it..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E5,6a for sure. Technically its not that bad, you just need to spend a little bit of time using your feet and thinking your way up it..
Dave C 12 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Don't remember a 6b move on this at all. The flake is strenuous but 'only' 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't remember a 6b move on this at all. The flake is strenuous but 'only' 6a.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 63
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Wand

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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