9m.

Rockfax Description
A real classic and rite of passage which is hard work but well protected. Climb the short arete to runners, then lean out (large wire in the flake) and layback onto the flake. About face, and finish briskly. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 50 of the Best, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Misha 14/Jul Lead dnf

Hard but brilliant! Fell off the barndoorey layback flake a few times. Strenuous and technical but very safe. Pleased to get into the crack on the first go (great transfer onto a finger lock, not that hard as the feet stay on). Had a few goes but just couldn't crack it, even from sitting on the gear. Found a good way to place the gear though - LH palm up in the bottom of the diagonal crack, RF on the sloper below the hand jam break, LF flagging out L - this gave me plenty of reach, still a bit blind but the placements are good (cams 0.3 and 0.4 or nut 6ish (though didn't place it), cam 0.5 can be placed higher in the flake after moving below it but probably best not to as it gets in the way a bit). I was going high LH in the flake but in the photos some people are going high RH, might be something to try but ultimately RH needs to go in the pocket. Got to the pocket on the last go but still barn doored off. One to come back to!

with Eszter
GwilymR 22/May Lead dnf
FlavioL1989 14/May Lead dnf
morganator 04/May Lead dnf

Multiple ground up attempts. Can place the no 8 wire and get into the layback but kept falling off there. I'll be back!

with Brian McAlinden
M_Robinson 19/Mar Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Mar Lead G/U
Will Hunt 13/Mar Lead G/U

A beautiful climb.

Sam Marks 13/Mar Lead G/U

Fell a few times getting across to the flake, awesome climbing once across once on the flake!

Dave Warburton 13/Mar Lead β

Placed wire and then rested on jams. Said I 'may as well have a look'. Unexpected success...

amccann 07/Mar Lead G/U

Fell off from the rail just below the top a couple of weeks ago. Felt much easier today.

with Ed Teale
mrteale 23/Feb Lead dnf

Had a few goes today, hit the sloper on my last but peeled off, cam in flake ripped out and ended upside down... will use a nut in any future endeavours..

NDD 23/Feb Lead β
with sam harvie
Gus 14/Feb Lead G/U

Totally destroyed from bouldering yesterday which added some spice, took the ride then dispatched. Amazing movement!

with ben rouse
Hidden ??/2016 -
deacondeacon 23/Oct/15 Lead RP

Climbed it a few nights ago with lanterns but had the first bit of gear protecting the starting arête pre clipped. Went back after work today to do it properly. Amazing route. Thanks for the belay Phil.

Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead RP
Gaz of Bath 04/Oct/15 Lead RP
karol dubas 03/Oct/15 Lead G/U

So happy to have it done 1st go on second session trying. Felt so much better this time. Thanks Marcus for all the encouragement and the belay:)

with Marcus
MichaelGallimore 02/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got my right hand into the final crack, then fell.

with Jenny
Joedt 16/May/15 2nd
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
scott quinn 25/Apr/15 Lead dnf

got onto the layback and struggled to make progress fell of 3 times and called it at that, found a video which shows an obvious move that I wasn't even looking at maybe next time...

AsleepOnBelay 11/Apr/15 2nd dnf
with ian
Hidden 02/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/15 Lead O/S
gazhbo 27/Mar/15 Lead RP

Long time coming

phil64 ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
morganator 02/Nov/14 Lead dnf

Next time!

with Ross Mckerchar
quiffhanger 02/Nov/14 Lead β

So pleased to get a surprise flash of this. Had a bit of gear beta but pretty much figured out the moves as I went.

with Jon M
markalmack 26/Oct/14 Lead G/U

fricking hard. took multiple lobs before finally getting it...just.

with will-i-am-old-as-fuck, little tom
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd dog
spidey 06/Jul/14 Lead dnf

had a flash go after watching footage, placing gear on lead, got to the layback position and rested. had 1 more go after which was equally disappointing. will be back, ace route

with mat lamb
robman 23/Jun/14 Lead dog

got pumped placing gear out right, went after 1 rest.

jamiev 05/Jun/14 TR dog

Made the stretch move out right 1st go (thanks to Tim's beta after he'd led it!), but blew the top move of the top crack..brilliant route though

with Tim Parkinson
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/14 Lead G/U
with Mal Scott
JulesV 24/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Ground upped this nine years ago. Glad to get it first go today, placing gear on lead.

with Shauna
Ethan 13/Mar/14 Lead β
with Jon Clark, Don Walker
oliver.ghill91 22/Feb/14 Lead dog
with Zardoz
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Nov/13 TR
Dan Bates 13/Nov/13 -
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead RP
BillyRidal ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

took a while to commit to the stretch out right, through a nut in the flake, climbed above it and kicked the nut out. let out a feminine yelp before sprinting over the top.

mshorter 17/May/13 Lead RP
sparkass 17/May/13 Lead G/U

Ground up. The only soft thing about this is falling. Felt really hard, really glad to have done it.

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf
sgl0jd 15/Apr/13 Lead RP

Ground up

Hidden 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S
sgl0jd 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf
Peter Holder 14/Jan/13 Lead
Hidden 12/Jan/13 Lead
BRoe 18/Nov/12 Lead G/U

Ground up, awesome line.

Michael Allday 14/Nov/12 Lead RP
LJC 11/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Ground up, first session.

with Tom
Harry Chaplin 05/Nov/12 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf

flip me that layback felt desperate! Just watched Hard Grit and now I have a much better sequence though. About face... now there's an idea!

nimajneb 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf
harvie 03/Oct/12 Lead
Chi Cheng 23/Sep/12 Lead dog
Stone Muppet 12/May/12 TR dnf

TR DNFBGRPAWMRRDTTC. (rr=rigging rope). Toprope tough guys!

with sd-l, md
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead RP
pmurdy 24/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Apparently getting onto the flake isn't the hard bit!

with Mike W
Alex@home 23/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with The Doctor
Daniel Heath 20/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Did the big press into the crack but got psyched/pumped out.

with Remus
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
dj_brigham05 03/Jul/11 Lead RP

Failed to onsight it so dogged to top, rested for 20 mins then bashed it out next go. Happy

Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead dnf
stephenhartley ?/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Burns
markalmack 17/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell off multiple times from the top layback. Couldn't finish it!

with james marjot
steve_yo 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

2nd go,ground up

Brown 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Ground up

with Oska
Kyle Rance 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Scott Purdy
ScottPurdy 26/Mar/11 2nd dnf
GPN 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

3 tries. Felt tired.

with Annette
highlux 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

Awesome movement and climbing. Took 3 shots, and did the RP with the gear in.

PeteH 02/Mar/11 2nd dog

Took a lot of attempts to get the sequence at the crux that would work for me. Will defo be back to lead it.

malx ?/Mar/11 Lead G/U
Ed Booth 23/Jan/11 Lead

ground up. Had a day in the past and realy struggled. Took 3 falls today, then did it. Felt not too bad on the actual go when you get everything in the right place. A cool sequence.

Harry Thorpe 21/Jan/11 TR RP

Not too hard, though I do it a different way to everone else it seems...

with Sarah Wright
grady ?/Jan/11 Lead dnf

fell a few times from the layback, next time

Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Nov/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead dnf
A Downing 24/Oct/10 TR dnf
with Ben Monkton
Joe Costello 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt

3rd or 4th go ground-up stylee.

with Alec, James
DaveFidler 12/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Fell off last move, about 3 times and gave up. Grrr

Kevster 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf
alaan 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

What Mat said.

Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
AdamjBailes 06/Sep/10 Lead rpt
FlorianCastagne 13/Aug/10 Lead dog

Ground up at my second go

with Guillaume Lion
richiebongo 11/Aug/10 Lead dog

Got a dodgy nut in the crack, fell off, thought nut would pop so filled the crack with gear then had no room for fingers, swore at myself and then TP'd it in one go...next time!

geddicakes 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Jun/10 Lead β

It's a retro flash really since it's been 4 years since I last tried. Chuffed to bits with it though!

St0neMonkey 10/Jun/10 Lead β
hamish2016 14/May/10 Lead dnf

A few attempts, couldn't get feet into crack.

with pete graham
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead dnf
irish paul ??/2010 Lead dnf

Lovely moves, nice to finally get on and try it!

with Dave R + Mike D
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead dog
with Andy S
jeffmcd56 ??/2010 Lead RP
with Wez
Ross Kirkland ?/Oct/09 Lead RP
with Neil McGeek
CharlieMack 23/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Found upto the vertical crack pretty straight forward, but couldnt reach across far enough to get established into the crack! Just need 2 grow an inch or two.

with mgeek
mgeek 23/Sep/09 Lead G/U

ground up 3rd go. Awesome powerful safe climbing!

with adam hughes
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
barni 18/Aug/09 Lead dnf
DaveFidler ?/Jul/09 TR RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Apr/09 2nd
with Nic and Katherine
nige 05/Apr/09 Lead RP
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Nige
dav 15/Mar/09 Lead

failed onsight missed a foothold, loser.. done second attempt. short and sweet.

with Gill B
Ram MkiV 24/Jan/09 Lead β

only new tick today but a good 'n! (had belayed the count on it back in '07)

with Guy, Tez, Stead, Sean & Tez's mate.
koopa ??/2009 TR dnf
Jacob Bloodworth ??/2009 Lead G/U
Hidden 30/Dec/08 Lead dnf
timbanton 09/Dec/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/08 TR dog
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
andy gravestock 25/May/08 Lead RP

a lot of hard work but its well worth it.

with dad
Nom 16/Apr/08 TR dnf

I'll be back!

with Joe Bream
Ed Booth 04/Mar/08 Lead dnf

This climb pisses me off so much! I don;t even like it, i'm just going to headpoint it one day when i have nothin better to do.

with Matt Pickles
willackers 20/Nov/07 Lead

Fell off the top when I was about 15. Cruised it this time.

with Chris Cubitt, Dan Walker
Hidden 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 13/Nov/07 Lead dnf

Fell off numerous times reaching crack

Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson 08/Oct/07 Lead RP
with AJ
sam8oy 07/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Managed to reach the vertical crack but found it hard to move my body for the layback

with John
btc 27/Aug/07 2nd
with keith daly
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead rpt
fizzy_elephant 26/Mar/07 2nd dog
with Lloyd Betsworth
Toby Dunn 08/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Aug/06 Lead dog

Fell off on final crack and then finished the route. Absolutely awesome though, can't wait to try again when I'm a bit fresher.

redjerry ?/May/06 Lead
with Josh Horniak
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
dannyboy83 ?/Dec/05 Lead RP

Tricky move moving rightwards

with Dad
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Jody Vallance
JulesV ??/2005 Lead β

Ground up

ali_robb ?/Jul/04 Lead RP

ground up 2nd go

johnboyrevel ?/May/04 2nd O/S
with Spider
mark s ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 TR dnf
rapidrich ?/Nov/03 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Jun/03 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Apr/03 AltLd
Jeff25 01/Mar/03 Lead β

Found it ok with the hard part being reaching the last holds. Maybe F7a+ if youre not into bouldery routes.

with Oliver
Hidden ?/Mar/03 -
lx ?/May/02 Lead

gear preplaced

justin c ?/Mar/02 -

lovely route

sadams 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead G/U
Rich Kirby 06/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Mike Owen 17/May/98 -
with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Jan/98 Lead RP

2nd go

with Chris Ranner
ukb shark ??/1998 Lead

Year a guess

Chris Reid ??/1998 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Nov/97 Lead RP
with Dave Edmunds
goi.ashmore 12/Apr/97 Lead RP

Just missed the on sight when my boot toe rubber ripped!

with Dave Banham-Hughes
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead RP
ste_d 19/Apr/96 2nd O/S
with mik
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Dave Pritchard 23/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Bryn Bardsley
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/91 Lead β
Hidden ??/1991 Lead β
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Steve Crowe ??/1990 2nd O/S

circa 1990

with AJ
Alan James - UKC and UKH ??/1990 Lead
Billg 08/Oct/89 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 03/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 -
ewar woowar ??/1982 2nd
Mark Kemball 08/Jun/80 Lead

Many falls over two weekends before I got it. Back then it was my second E4 lead!

Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Graham Parkes
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 54
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set