Sketched my way up the whole route to past the top pockets with my hands on bad crimps on the finishing ledge, but didn't find a good enough hold, my feet weren't on anything much and the inevitable happened. I didn't have any gear in any of the pockets, my last runner was a wire in a crack a long way below. Fell about 20 metres down to where the good rest is below the crux of Flaky wall.
Just pulled up the ropes and then escaped up the flaky wall finish. Can't believe I have to go back and do it again, I'll probably take some gear for the top pockets next time. I think I must have missed some holds at the very top, because the pocket sequence was OK, everything just seemed to run out at the exit. tim newton - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/14 with rachel slater
:( Basically got mega pumped and flustered trying to get a wire in the crack above the groove and wasn't overly happy with it, so backed it up but by this time was pretty goosed. Kept going but knew it was futile and was unwilling to risk a big whip onto the kit so down-climbed and dropped off. I'll be back.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/14 with Stadders
Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14
GrantB - 2nd - 17/May/14 with ally smith
dominic lee - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with nathan lee
Essentially onsight really. Had a little bit of beta for gear at the top which I didn't actually follow. Perfect pockets!
nathanlee - Lead β - 12/Apr/14 with Dom Lee
Amazing route, continually absorbing climbing, a really good battle...
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with steve_yo
mike mo - 2014
mike mo - 2014
Apharri - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Jim Gayler
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/13
Such a good route. Felt so relaxed on the initial groove. I got more and more scared the higher i got. Placed my rock 7 early in the route, so didn't have it to place before the final run out. So fun. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with chris todd
jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with nathan lee
seams decent bouldering strength will get you through most things, felt fine, got some large sideways nuts for the run out they looked ok. really happy to get this and tails on the day of my last ever university exam
mwatson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 28/Feb/13 with dan
Not a very smooth lead:
Fell onto the pegs at the start. Thought it was by far the hardest part.
Felt the whole route quite sustained and a bit scary.
For the last runout, I managed to place a skyhook upside down above a sideways offset nut. Great combination. I broke a hold off the very top move and fell on the skyhook. It held, making the route feel safer than most accounts suggest.
Daniel Heath - Lead dog - 28/Feb/13 with Andy
ejected - Lead O/S - 2013
Last done in 1980 with Dan.Looooooong time..
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/12 with nathan lee
I can't believe I've actually onsighted this! This has been a massive goal for me for a long time, and feels like a much bigger milestone than other E5s I've done. The lower groove has the technically hardest climbing, but the upper wall is quite committing and insecure, especially when your shoelace is undone! This is first route I've done with a bold, serious feel to it, so I got pretty scared a long way above gear before the last hard moves, starting to doubt if I could do it, and doubt the gear. Luckily I snapped out of it! Just brilliant.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12
Warmed up on Flakey Wall, was a bit disappointed, did this and was not disappointed. Absolutely brilliant.
Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jun/12
harvie - Lead - 27/Mar/12 with Hannes B
Followed Chris Gore up this in the 1980s
Brian H - 2nd - 2012 with Chris Gore
Fell off the tricky section on Flaky Wall and lowered off mildly grumpy.
gforce - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/11 with Emma
steve_yo - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with smacks
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11
Jordan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Joel Pixley
Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/11
alaan - 2nd rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Aly
barni - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/10 with luke, Liam fleming
Amazing. Final runout not so bold with tricams.
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Char Williams
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10
Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 26/May/10 with Dan Gibson
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/May/10 with martin cleaver
Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/10 with Duncan Critchley
Seymore Butt - 2010
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09
Adam Booth - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Ed Booth
feilx - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Andy L
Yeep, done it. Scary bottom groove on shit pegs,(didnt find the bomber rock 7, unless its the one i couldnt place until after the crux) well protected crux on flaky wall, then a steady E3 5c finish. Mega.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with tony M
Cassidy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Will, Duboust
Amazing, easier than Tales.
willackers - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Cassidy, Duboust
Nicolas Duboust - 2nd - 13/Jun/09
An amazing climb. Plenty of good rests but a bit tiring on your feet. I managed to stay on despite both feet coming off while trying to swap feet on a rest! About as onsight as it could be considering I did Flaky Wall last year.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Jack Symmons
morganator - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/08 with Graham Schofield
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve barrat
Mostly onsight although ive done flakey wall so i have done the middle bit before. Fantastic moves all the way up!
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Martin Cleaver
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Neil Pope
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/08
nige - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with mark hounslea
reeve gave me some beta about friends in pockets on the final run out, both of which in turn fell out as I climbed past them! fortunately wasn't too bothered.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Andy Reeve
alaan - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Broom
tricky start, an goey high up!
Ian Broome - 2nd dog - 31/May/08 with Al
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/08
robyn1 - 2008
shark - 2nd - 02/Aug/07 with Dan Arkle
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with dave evans
Hidden - 2007
Boy - 2006
Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/05 with Simon Wren
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005 with Mark Vallance
whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with Niall
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/01
craig h - Lead RP - 01/Jun/99 with Chris c
ellis - Lead O/S - Jun/99 with Simon Witcher
Jon Read - 2nd O/S - May/99 with Nick Bullock
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/98 with Al Willoner
Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/97
sadams - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/96 with Hugh Cottom
Roget - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/96 with jon
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/93
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/93
mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Good day. An E5 each.
Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton
Steve Walker - Lead - 1992 with stuart muir
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/90
Hidden - 1990
Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990 with Pete Brown
Billg - Lead O/S - 1990 with Nigel Slater
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/89
Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/89
1st E5, sneaky rock 7
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989 with Paul Evans
William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily
keefe - 1988
Onew fall on low crux
shark - Lead - 02/Oct/86 with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
shark - Lead dnf - 25/Jan/86 with Paul Hempstock
shark - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/85 with Seb Grieve
andy gittins - Lead O/S - 1985
Mike Owen - 19/Mar/83 with Joe Healey
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with Karen Ghiselli
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes
Chris Craggs - 1980
Al Evans - 2nd - 1976