UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The lovely jamming-crack is best entered by a swift layback. Upgraded to HVS as climbers get ever worse at jamming! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 cracks to Squamish , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Froggatt Cracks (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , Proper Cracks UK , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
193 28 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If it was VS which it was and nothing has changed on it then it is still VS . The people who cannot jam it are failing or flailing on a VS. If they are bothered learn the requisite skills.
βeta?
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βeta: If it was VS which it was and nothing has changed on it then it is still VS . The people who cannot jam it are failing or flailing on a VS. If they are bothered learn the requisite skills.
Blod 3 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A high WC 5 cam protects the layback section.
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βeta: A high WC 5 cam protects the layback section.
Amberrosebrown 20 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hard work!!
βeta?
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βeta: Hard work!!
Alan100 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky to say, but I'd go for HVS as it's fairly sustained compared to Tody's and Chequers Buttress
βeta?
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βeta: Tricky to say, but I'd go for HVS as it's fairly sustained compared to Tody's and Chequers Buttress
Lurkio 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: VS is probably right, on a par with the File.
βeta?
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βeta: VS is probably right, on a par with the File.
Jon Greengrass 10 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A commiting layback to start leads to a romp on good jams. no harder than hawks nest crack. I got a friend 4 in the top of the starting offwidth by standing on tip toes.
βeta?
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βeta: A commiting layback to start leads to a romp on good jams. no harder than hawks nest crack. I got a friend 4 in the top of the starting offwidth by standing on tip toes.
Michael Hood 28 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Why has this route gone up to HVS 5a. Learn to jam, it's standard VS. If you look back enough guidebooks you'll see that it used to be given 4b!
βeta?
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βeta: Why has this route gone up to HVS 5a. Learn to jam, it's standard VS. If you look back enough guidebooks you'll see that it used to be given 4b!
Nick Smith - Climbers 30 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Offers some nice laybacking at the bottom, great jams in the middle, and at the top... ? A good crux!
βeta?
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βeta: Offers some nice laybacking at the bottom, great jams in the middle, and at the top... ? A good crux!
Mark Stevenson 10 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed - seemed very straight forward compared with say Nowanda at Gardoms. Perhaps VS 5a.
Show beta
βeta: Soloed - seemed very straight forward compared with say Nowanda at Gardoms. Perhaps VS 5a.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 263
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 243
Votes cast 213
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
John Peel

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovedale)

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