From a lurking boulder, mantel onto a narrow ledge then use the old peg hole (6a for the short) to gain finger-holds and easier climbing. Soft, but unprotected. Pads help lower the grade. Long John's Left-hand is a different ball-game at E6 6c. © Rockfax
FA. Al Rouse (solo) 1969
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Ultimate E3 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Above 2 pads, took some time to commit.
|jacob shieldhouse hadley||03/Oct||Solo O/S||
dirty at top. quality
|Alex Winter||27/Sep||Solo O/S||
Jake and Alice
Solo onsight. Hardest two moves are just barely off the ground so that's nice, then it eases the higher you go. Great moves, shame about the somewhat scrappy middle section. 2 and a half stars?
3rd time now. always climbed terribly.
|Antonio Ferra||?/May||2nd β||
|Graeme Hammond||15/Apr||Solo RP|
|Jake Young||11/Apr||Solo O/S|
Something and nothing. A singular hard move leads to positivity and a romp up on jugs past a distinctly hollow flake.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||30/Nov/14||Solo|
Tricky move low down but really just a boulder problem with a pad. V easy after that.
|Sam Marks||26/Oct/14||Lead O/S||
|Dan Hostford||19/Oct/14||TR O/S||
Had a mat for the start.
Saw the line and really wanted to climb but not confident enough on lead - just as well as I fell off first time. Beautiful climb though.
|Matthew Ferrier||21/Sep/14||Sent rpt|
Not sure I can quite claim the full E3 as I had a mountain of pads and spotters beneath me.
|Calum Wadsworth||21/Sep/14||Sent β||
Slipped off the bottom moves once irritatingly.
awesome. 5+ boulder problem in to an hvs solo
Did on TR a few years ago, did ape drape, and played on the starts to joe's slab
managed to work out some short person beta :)
Harder crux than Downhill Racer for midgets like me...
Tried the start, and got to the move past the pocket before I wimped out and reversed. Flashed clean on top rope and then flashed on lead. Gear in the high flake to protect the top (even though it was dead easy).
Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
|David Stevens||19/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
|David Kay||22/Feb/14||Solo dnf||
Slid down to the bottom after my foot popped before getting it into the peg hole. Someone else did exactly the same almost straight after which made me feel a little better!
First grit E3 and felt 6a for the short for sure! Ground up, fell once having committed to the initial rockover. Got back on it and did it. Amazing climbing and theres even gear if you want it- took all the pressure out of the final moves. Recommended, particularly if you are a stretch monster.
Shoes left at bottom! Tenaya Ra, any info much appreciated. I can drive to pick up! Thanks :D
|Ram MkiV||28/Dec/13||Solo rpt||
|Matthew Ferrier||04/Dec/13||Solo O/S||
Nay pads. Crimped down pretty hard and got through with minimal technique.
Fell once when I missed the good rail and tried to swap feet with the worst handhold I could possibly have found.
Need to get a pair of balls.
retro flash on top rope, too much bad juju set my spidey sense off, another day ill be ready, but not today.
Just have to trust your feet to rock up off the ledge, then gets easier the high you go - Friend 1.5 in the flake but it's all over by then
Awesome but the first move is tough if you can't reach the crimps from the ledge.
First E3 lead!
|Martin Bagshaw||02/Nov/13||Solo dnf||
couldn't quite reach the first decent crimp, took a little fall, and thought I best save it for another day
|Andy Moles||01/Oct/13||Solo O/S||
|Dr Toph||31/Aug/13||Solo O/S||
Good to know I can crimp again! Difficulties over too soon though!
Jumped off this last year but went fairly well today. No pads.
|Matt Cooke||10/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||?/Mar/13||Solo O/S||
Tim Hill, Katy Whittaker
Just thought this looked good, so set up a toprope and got it onsight, need to come back later on in summer for the lead.
|ian d f||16/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
|Nick Sillem||??/2013||Solo O/S|
|Double Knee Bar||16/Dec/12||TR rpt||
Quite chuffed to get on toprope. Couldn't touch it a year ago.
|Matt Harle||11/Nov/12||Lead O/S|
Very tough start. I didn't think I'd be able to get my toe in at the very beginning, but then I tried one more time and I was at the gear placement all of a sudden. 3rd E3 of the year.
|Haydn Jones||16/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
went up and back down about 4 times before i committed to the pull on.
My first E3 (and I've only done two E2s) - really pleased I did it. I was just about to solo it when Ralph said he'd like to second it and that I might as well get gear in the flake near the top since it's there - glad I listened (although the top is straight forward enough). I got a small cam in the shot-hole that was bomber if pulled to the right, unfortunately it fell out when pulled to the left (the way the route goes) - glad I didn't have to test it as it fell out when I got to the flake near the top.
|Daniel Heath||16/May/12||Solo rpt||
To get some better footage with the new camera. Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWaxnSyOmDI
|henry peter jenkins||06/May/12||Sent O/S|
|Phil Mercer||05/May/12||2nd RP|
Some much needed belay assistance over the crux
|Daniel Heath||21/Mar/12||Solo rpt||
For the video. Easy when you've done it once! Very hard until then.
|Daniel Heath||20/Mar/12||Solo β||
Finally had the guts to pull on the crimps. It wasn't so bad after all!
Will lead next time, had to dyno the first crux.
Nice moves, felt scared but secure! Glad to have taken gear up with me for the end though. Not hard but still insecure feet, maybe I'm just a wuss tho :-)
James Morrison, Dave LE
mr g walters
|Tony Kartawick||??/2012||Solo β||
Soloed at least 3 times.
|Matt JM Stevens||30/Nov/11||2nd||
|Matt JM Stevens||26/Nov/11||TR|
Tied in around the waist with uni, good fun!
|Tom Keaveny||11/Nov/11||TR O/S|
Gwen L, Jez, Charlie T
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||16/Oct/11||AltLd|
|Rachel Slater||25/Sep/11||Lead rpt||
waay harder to lead than second. almost sketched off it but very pleased i managed it
|Peter Holder||14/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|Chris Ellyatt||28/Jun/11||Solo dnf||
Archie Nicholson, Jason Almeida, Shane Standing, Owen Jefferies, Nick Herbert, Kay Alchin, James Lawrence, Paul Windross
Chuffed with this, been wanting it for ages!
Such a good route!!! No mat, just Thom.
|Ollie B||12/May/11||Lead O/S||
no mat, between showers ie damp, had to do intermediate moves as im not exactly tall
|Kyle Rance||26/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
|Ed morris||20/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
A very good route which you might as well solo if you are competent to lead past the crux.
|Mike Goldthorp||03/Mar/11||Solo rpt||
First tricky moves are no pushover, solid bold E3 with the unpleasant landing
first go, climbed it much better
|Aaron Hauptmann||30/Jan/11||Solo β||
Easy for the taller of us. If you can reach the crimps from the peg hole without using the bad feet it really didn't feel hard at any one point. Pure head game really.
felt 6a but with 1 pad
|Richard Hall||27/Oct/10||Solo O/S||
Good fun but a bit disappointed by how quickly it was over. Pretty easy for E3.
|dominic lee||16/Oct/10||Solo rpt|
Beautiful onsight lead from Ben. No gear until the flake and no pad. I managed it clean, but only just avoided a fall by crimping harder than I've ever crimped before.
Rachel, Ben, Bird
Had done it before but was scary as the larger holds higher up were damp and I didn' take a chalkbag. No mat or spotters, way to go...
|James Oakes||10/Aug/10||Solo O/S||
Feet popped near the bottom but managed to stay on (just!!!!!) not ideal conditions
|Bill Lawrence||10/Aug/10||Solo rpt||
second time ive done this and it seemed harder, was really warm though
ground up, brilliant intricate moves
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||26/Jun/10||Solo rpt|
|Richard G Wilkinson||13/Jun/10||TR RP||
Top roped and felt comfortable after a few attempts, will go back and lead when its not raining!
|Bill Lawrence||24/Apr/10||Solo O/S||
nice moves, eases very quickly. cruised it and it was my first e3!
|irish paul||24/Apr/10||Solo O/S|
|Lawrie Brand||14/Apr/10||TR RP|
Sam, Cal, Willl Wilson
will wilson, cal coldwell-story, rob lay
no mats, no spotters
nick faulkner, james higgins
hit the deck from the good rail at about half height, had some good spotters and fell neatly into the mat at the bottom. Gutted i didnt finish it!
|Mike Goldthorp||13/Mar/10||Solo O/S|
|C coldwell-storry||?/Mar/10||Solo O/S||
Sam Anderton, rob lay
|bigie bob||31/Oct/09||Solo O/S|
After 20 years...
|Dave Foster||18/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
First E3 onsight.
Rachel Slater, Jack Metcalfe
|Rachel Slater||08/Oct/09||2nd O/S||
Only manageable in my testerossas. Sirens noo good
Mgeek, Andy Innes, Emma Hughes
|Tim W||20/Sep/09||Solo O/S||
Did first move. Crux holds thick with chalk so down climbed to to get a brush. Brushed the hold on the way back up.
|dan gibson||18/Sep/09||Solo rpt|
|Alex Mason||06/Sep/09||Solo rpt||
crimps felt small on this too, wanted to do long johns but by the time the punters and wrapped-up it rained
Noaksy, Billy Laurence
|Mike W||19/Aug/09||Lead O/S|
Fantastic, used a mat, I'm tall and I put gear in the top section but I climbed the thing and it was amazing, to me that's all that matters. Quality climbing and I was chuffed to get the onsight.
|Ram MkiV||09/May/09||Solo rpt||
Guy & Oli
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||02/May/09||Solo rpt|
Used a few runners in the easy upper section so technically not a solo
|dan gibson||15/Mar/09||Solo rpt||
|Dan Lane||07/Mar/09||TR O/S||
Very nice, Mantle up onto ledge then a long reach to 2 crimps, foot up it tiny edge, pull, other foot into pocket and it is easy from there.
|john lynch||06/Mar/09||Solo O/S||
Lewis Andrew, rich armour
|Lewis Andrew||06/Mar/09||Solo O/S||
John Lynch, Rich Armour
|metal arms||06/Jan/09||Solo O/S|
|Dave Bond||09/Dec/08||Solo β|
Tricky start, steady above.
Pleased with this no mats or spotters and its not over as quicky as you'd hope, difficult move similar to browns eliminate
Took a fairly painful fall from below where the crimps improve and landed on the rocks below. Pleasantly suprised nothing broke!
Got gear in the flakey thing at half height - looked ok. Top is easy.
Done before. Cool!
no chalk on the rock, was bloody scared
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||27/Jan/08||Solo rpt|
One mat. Felt pretty easy.
Felt harder than Heartless Hare
|Ed Booth||09/Aug/07||Solo O/S|
|craig matheson||?/Apr/07||Solo O/S|
First E3 yeyeyeyeyeyeye
|dan gibson||03/Mar/07||Solo rpt|
|david morse||14/Jan/07||Solo O/S||
Very nice route
No mats (or fat spotters). One hardish/fingery pull (for a shorty) then steady climbing to the top. Solo for maximum enjoyment.
|Owen W-G||12/Nov/06||Solo O/S||
No mat or spotter. Needed a lie down at the top.
Another easy, fun E3, crux low down but as you get higher the easier moves get scarier. Take some spotters!
used a mat and runner at floor level
Was buzzing at the top, awesome route!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||14/Oct/06||Solo rpt|
|Cragrat Rich||12/Oct/06||Solo O/S||
My first E3 onsight. I didn`t use padding and am quite short but flexible for high foot placements which helped. Eases rapidly but steady climbing required throughout the ascent
|Somerset swede basher||06/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
|Alex Mason||19/May/06||Solo O/S||
after 'streching' my anticipation to its length i finally felt comfy enough on the crimps to crank and get my foot in pocket, calm down, crank, and one last time and i was onto the flake and the home-stretch, at 5' 8" i found the best method was too step right to the little endge from the initial ledge this aids reaching the first right hand crimp, step back left and you can reach the left-hand crimp then pull away, i'd say sub 5' 7" and this would be a very different proposition
|Ram MkiV||19/May/06||Solo O/S||
scariest element was the contemplation. Fine once committed.
I'll be back
|Andrew Barker||10/Dec/05||Solo O/S||
Awesome! The crux pulls off the ledge felt like 6a for me as I could only just reach a couple of tiny crimps that taller people could ignore (I'm 5'9). It would be really tough for anyone much shorter!
didnt quite know what i was up to. left the ledge and got committed. not a serious attempt but somehow found myself at the top!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||27/Aug/05||Solo rpt|
|Mark Riley||?/Aug/05||Lead O/S||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
the first time i felt the true power of the boldness hat!!
Fell off this previously trying to kick the gear out of the foothold - didn't make that mistake again! Easy.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||15/May/04||Solo β|
Spen, James Latham
|Just Another Dave||15/Jun/02||Solo O/S|
Sahra, Miles, simon?, Martin Whelan, Nicky
|Brian Rodgers||??/2002||Lead β|
|adam carless||??/2001||2nd O/S||
pocket move is very hard for shorties.
someone from CUMC
Martin Whelan, Brian, Nicky
|Tim M||??/2000||Solo O/S|
|craig h||06/Sep/98||Solo rpt|
|Obi-Wan is lost...||07/Feb/98||Solo|
|D Tempest||??/1998||Solo O/S|
Better this time!
I remember going very white at the jugs and deciding that I shouldn't listen to advice against my better judgement!
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||09/Mar/97||Solo O/S|
|Charles Arthur||31/Oct/95||Solo O/S||
Done just previous to calamitous gravity-aided descent from Great Slab (nominally easier). Twanged a tendon doing this one. Mind the flake at the top - it can't have improved over the years.
jim whitford, Chris Shorrock
Jo Mitchell, Chris Shorrock
|Scott McRae||?/Apr/94||TR O/S||
Coukldn't psyche up for the lead / didn't have a big enough rucksack to pack the rock!
|Chris Reid||15/Oct/93||Solo O/S|
|Jon Read||?/Jul/93||Solo O/S||
Andy Dixon & Richard Fielding
|Craig Barton||??/1993||Solo O/S|
|Tony Little||13/May/92||Solo O/S||
Chris, Vince, Alan and James
Great Day Long John is a finger wrecker
|adi bryant||30/May/91||Solo O/S|
|andy farnell||??/1990||Solo O/S||
Date a rough guess
|Nick Rundall||??/1990||2nd O/S|
|Rich Kirby||??/1989||Solo O/S|
Toproped once a year before
|Stoney Boy||30/Dec/87||Solo O/S|
|Carl Hamer||??/1987||TR O/S|
lead in may 1986
|mark mcgowan01||??/1986||Solo O/S|
|Dave Musgrove||12/Jun/85||Solo rpt||
I'd done this several times by now. Becoming a party-piece.
Would be easier as a boulder problem with a bouldering mat and spotters.
|Dave Musgrove||28/Mar/81||Lead O/S||
Keith Robertson, Elaine Watson
I am short and I thought 6a
|Steve Bell||??/1978||Solo O/S|
|Mark Kemball||03/Jul/77||Lead dnf|
|Mark Kemball||??/1977||Solo O/S||
Had attempted the start a number of times and backed off.
|Jonathan Lagoe - UKC||??/1977||Solo|