Rockfax Description
Another of the classic E3 routes at Gardom's. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach a good jug. A gut-wrenching mantel gains the upper wall just right of the rib, which proves to be more delicate and bold. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Morgan 1976. FAA. Pete Biven 1956. Biven reached the mantelshelf using tension, though the moves were done free. The route then zig-zagged up the final buttress all the way out to Moyer's and back!

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
James Oakes 19/Sep Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 19/Sep Lead β
RosePearson 27/Jun 2nd dog

Cool mantle which I fell off. The third of the classic E3's for us to climb... and the 1st off which I fell. We didn't complete the set - the 1st proved too much for harry and too my shame I didn't even give it a shot at leading.

Harry Fogg
Teappleby 04/Jun Lead G/U

second go. Really annoyed I didn't commit first time, got mostly mantled and then scared about how high I was above the gear so lowered onto the jug and jumped off. So sweaty, this was not the day the be at gardoms, the first real day of summer!

Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
eduardo 03/May/14 2nd dog

Hard mantel!

Misha 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice to get this one after failing to do the mantelshelf four years ago. Still took three goes - first go a bit gung-ho (how hard can it be? pretty hard!), dropped onto the jug, second go sussed out the feet but lacked commitment, downclimbed to the hands free rest under the roof, third go went for it and it felt fairly straightforward - feet on, hold the sloper with the left, invert the right into a mantelshelf position, push with the right, foot on, sorted! Enjoyable 5b (may be some easy 5c) headwall, which is well protected with lost of small to medium sized cams and a large cam for the last break - I ran out of cams of the right size so got a sideways micro higher up which was a bit uninspiring. Ah, the brilliance of grit... Still ain't proper climbing though ;-)

Richard, Ed
switch 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Used a sling on the chockstone out L. Great crux.

WillDoyle 17/Mar/14 Lead RP
sgl0jd 17/Nov/13 -

Harder than any of the E5s and 6s i've done this year!

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
pudding 30/Apr/11 Lead dnf

gave it a go after nick and phil couldnt manage it, wish i had shorter legs, was so nearly over the bulge!

nick buckley, phil jarvis
Hidden ??/2011 Solo O/S
Adam Moroz 09/May/10 Lead

Mantel is ok if u just go for it and dnt pussy about. Got a bit lost higher up tho and think i went to far left not sure, gear on upper slab is pants.

john (Krank)
natalietanzer 09/May/10 TR RP

mantel is hard - pretty relieved to get it second go!

thomasadixon 26/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Nails mantel, climbed to it loads of times and back down then finally went for it. One proper fall (nice painful whack into the slab) then got it second go.

Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
thrutch 16/Aug/08 TR dog
Hidden 10/Aug/08 TR
Hidden ??/2008 -
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Adgar
Joe Costello 02/Jun/07 -
Liam, Kev, Matt, James
Luke Brooks 10/Apr/07 2nd
Kim Hayward
dannyboy83 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
Mark Riley 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf

The sloper above the jug was green/slippery, not sure if thats the way though...

Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
dominic lee ?/May/04 Lead O/S
daniel lee
lx ?/Apr/04 Lead


Roget 12/Mar/00 Lead rpt
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
ste_d 27/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/94 TR
mattnuttall 05/Mar/94 2nd O/S
Ian Vickers
Hidden ??/1992 Lead O/S
Roget 06/May/91 2nd O/S
colin, baccy
tapley 22/Apr/90 -
TonyF 17/Apr/89 2nd O/S
Tony Cox
goi.ashmore 28/May/88 Lead RP

Took one small fall at the overhang deliberately as I was recovering from a severly sprained ankle and did not want to set it off again

Rich Brook
John Marsland 24/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set