Another of the classic E3 routes at Gardom's. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach a good jug. A gut-wrenching mantel gains the upper wall just right of the rib, which proves to be more delicate and bold. © Rockfax
FFA. Dave Morgan 1976. FAA. Pete Biven 1956. Biven reached the mantelshelf using tension, though the moves were done free. The route then zig-zagged up the final buttress all the way out to Moyer's and back!
Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|James Oakes||19/Sep||Lead O/S|
|Ram MkiV||19/Sep||Lead β||
Cool mantle which I fell off. The third of the classic E3's for us to climb... and the 1st off which I fell. We didn't complete the set - the 1st proved too much for harry and too my shame I didn't even give it a shot at leading.
second go. Really annoyed I didn't commit first time, got mostly mantled and then scared about how high I was above the gear so lowered onto the jug and jumped off. So sweaty, this was not the day the be at gardoms, the first real day of summer!
Nice to get this one after failing to do the mantelshelf four years ago. Still took three goes - first go a bit gung-ho (how hard can it be? pretty hard!), dropped onto the jug, second go sussed out the feet but lacked commitment, downclimbed to the hands free rest under the roof, third go went for it and it felt fairly straightforward - feet on, hold the sloper with the left, invert the right into a mantelshelf position, push with the right, foot on, sorted! Enjoyable 5b (may be some easy 5c) headwall, which is well protected with lost of small to medium sized cams and a large cam for the last break - I ran out of cams of the right size so got a sideways micro higher up which was a bit uninspiring. Ah, the brilliance of grit... Still ain't proper climbing though ;-)
Used a sling on the chockstone out L. Great crux.
Harder than any of the E5s and 6s i've done this year!
gave it a go after nick and phil couldnt manage it, wish i had shorter legs, was so nearly over the bulge!
nick buckley, phil jarvis
Mantel is ok if u just go for it and dnt pussy about. Got a bit lost higher up tho and think i went to far left not sure, gear on upper slab is pants.
mantel is hard - pretty relieved to get it second go!
Nails mantel, climbed to it loads of times and back down then finally went for it. One proper fall (nice painful whack into the slab) then got it second go.
Liam, Kev, Matt, James
|Mark Riley||29/Apr/06||Lead dnf||
The sloper above the jug was green/slippery, not sure if thats the way though...
|dominic lee||?/May/04||Lead O/S||
Took one small fall at the overhang deliberately as I was recovering from a severly sprained ankle and did not want to set it off again
|John Marsland||24/Aug/86||Lead O/S||