Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Finale Groove* VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Waterloo Sunset
 
Babylon's Groove >>
16m. The oddly-named first crack in the face. The crux requires some beefy pinch-gripping then things ease. © ROCKFAX
FA. David Penlington 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Jasmine, Kamil

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/14

cragtyke - Lead - 03/Aug/14 with john g

Ali Mortazavi - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Mike, Rita

Mike Soulby - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with alimortazavi85

Hidden - TR dog - 26/Jul/14

stevelismore - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with John PCC

john_ni - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Steve Lismore ( PCC)

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 01/Jul/14 with Julian L

Nice route with great gear where it matters. Lucky as I got pumped below the crux and had to rest. Then got up it 2nd go in very poor style due to poor footwork. Must do better.
Jules Lane - Lead dog - 01/Jul/14 with Mynydd James

ClareSenny - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Andrew Edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

hotfeet - Lead - 05/May/14 with James

Quick rest on gear...nearly!
GLO - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Keith P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

eduardo - Lead rpt - 03/May/14

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Phil Wadsworth

mol - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Jesse

farmerwad - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/14

riddle - Lead dog - 12/Apr/14 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/14

martinbettridge06 - Lead - Mar/14

masa-alpin - 2nd β - 11/Aug/13 with Andy Rich

sshandy - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Masa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Keith Poskitt, Trish Darling

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/13

DeanD - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Mike Brookes

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13

Reds - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

althesin - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

giuly - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders

slacky - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders

Hidden - TR - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

First VS!
Ramblin dave - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Paul B

Good lead by Dave
cem - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/13 with Paul Baxter, Dave Sim

AlanPedrick - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/12

Tricky crux move at half way point. Managed to reach right up and grab finger jug.
davemcummings - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Des

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/12

hangover climbing urghhh but pinches wow !
ashtond6 - Lead - 02/Sep/12

Dan Vaj - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/12 with Jonathon Clark

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

Barry D - Lead - 22/May/12 with Juan

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Rachel B

Batt - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with James Hoyes

sopaz - 2nd - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/May/12

HB1 - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/12 with KB

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Apr/12

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Ian JL - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nordie_matt - Lead dog - 26/Dec/11 with Matt JM Stevens

Such a stupidly awkward route!
Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 26/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Good route! Some unusual holds and moves - various combinations of bridging, jamming, pinching and crimping. Possibly more than one 5a move. Good lead by Mark.
andyjirvin - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/11

proper workout for the arms, this one
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Stu, Robby

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

As the guidebook said "on jams, pinches and layaways" - it didn't lie...
charley - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Calder - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Mike B

Really nice climbing throughout. No surprises on good pro.
wishicud climbHVS - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Big Fat Dan

bigdan050 - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with ash green, Tosh

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/11

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11

Felt hard and runout.
petellis - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Jenny Clarke

Fell off at crux, cam popped out. Luckily lower cam held. Ended up with my head six inches off the ground and unhurt. Still shaken!
Jim Brownlow - Lead dnf - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

wolverine - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 15/May/11 with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz

Mikael - Lead - 14/May/11

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

geddicakes - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with James Restorick

found it very tricky and strenuous for the grade. Had a cam rip when I fell just at the crux and hit my belayer. I was fine but a bit scared. didn't like it.
THardSevere - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11 with emily moore

ajc - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - Lead - 16/Apr/11 with The Bad Cough

hang_about - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

pete1993 - Lead - 02/Apr/11

Brannock - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

cem - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Graham Dolman

RalphC - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Ali

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

Good. Quite tricky for the grade.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Saffra

Good moves all the way
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Barry fatbuoy McRobb, Wavey Davey

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Scotty Mc, daveyw

wildrover220 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Royston Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Nick Briggs

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

petegruf - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with brad j

jon bradley - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Huw Howells

Shauna - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd - 28/Apr/10 with Shauna Cunningham

max_chan - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Lou

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Cat Tabbner, Max Streeton

migs493 - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with LO

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

JHiley - 2nd - 21/Mar/10

nickcanute - 2010

lithos - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with cookie

Found it quite strenuous because i'm really unfit at the moment. haven't a clue what this beefy pinch thing is all about.
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Pete V

Excellent fun, hard vs for me. Felt fine and wondered what the "beefy pinch" fuss was, and then found out! Surprisingly strenuous.
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Sarah Davis

barrylong - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Karl PCC

Karlos - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Random

Rampikino - Lead - 31/May/09 with Cat and Shirley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Brilliant
mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

keith leonard - 2009

skittles - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Andy Hext

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/08

bridget143 - 2nd RP - 23/Jun/08 with Brown

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Bridget

Kirill - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/08 with Paul Bolton, Lara

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Lara Thompson, Kirill Spiridonov

cem - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/08 with Mark O'Neill

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 14/Jun/08 with bob3141

bob3141 - 2nd - 14/Jun/08 with Jesse Dufton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/08

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Tried to lead it, and failed
Laurence Everitt - 2nd β - 03/Nov/07 with Tammy Hughes, James Cross

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/07

MeMeMe - 2nd - 07/Oct/07 with Nick and Andy

russonly - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with JonH

MD - 2nd - 16/Sep/07 with Misha

Ropeboy - Solo - 09/Sep/07

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with sean

Good route, well protected with cams, committing moves and steep
Pilch - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Graham

not too strenuous? I got to get out more!
EdShep - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Pilch

Budge - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie

Fantastic route, lots of gear and not too strenuous. Pinches and jamming all the way up. I wish I'd led it.
climbingpixie - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with James

gazfellows - 2nd - Apr/07

peter myers - Lead - Apr/07 with Rebecca Coles

steve taylor - 2007

Pete Horn - Lead - 2007 with Mark

Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

John Lisle - 2006

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/05 with Natasha Geere

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Mar/05

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/04

chrishedgehog - 23/Apr/04 with Erwin Bottomley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/03

Hidden - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

mikej - 2nd - 14/May/00 with Nick Salmon

John Marsland - 2nd - 09/Apr/00 with Duncan Bourne

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/99

rlrs - Lead - 1999

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1999 with Ian Smith

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - Aug/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/98

craig h - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/97 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/96

Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/95 with Alan Nuttall

Iain Thow - Lead - 26/Aug/95 with Rosy Wright

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95

Yourlead - 2nd - 12/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

andrewbooth1000 - 2nd - 07/May/95 with Ed Lewis

colin milton - Lead - 04/May/95 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/95

Roget - Solo rpt - 27/Jun/92

Roget - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/92 with JT

Laramadness - 2nd - 30/Jun/91

babymoac - Lead - 26/May/90 with Graeme

Raggar - Lead - 06/May/90 with Steve B

I'd led it in the dim and distant..
Andy Say - Solo - 25/Nov/89

steve prior - Lead - Jul/86 with Sam M

Hidden - 1986

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Oct/85

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Mar/85 with Charlie Leverton

malc - 2nd - 03/Jun/84

mark-abz - TR - 18/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Solo - 08/Jan/83

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/79

Nigel Bond - Lead - 02/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/75

RichardMc - Lead - 06/Jul/75 with Les Gillot, Ken Salter, Betty Seifert

Dave Musgrove - 08/Oct/72

mikej - 2nd - 26/Jan/69 with Wil Hurford

mikej - 2nd - 06/Oct/68 with Ian Clayton

mikej - Lead - 18/Feb/67 with Nigel Sumner

mikej - TR - 09/Oct/66 with Keith Gregson

mikej - 2nd dnf - 08/May/66 with Keith Gregson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WhipperSnapper, alp79, mapperley samurai, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 145
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS1 of 50
easy HVS5 of 50
hard VS10 of 50
VS33 of 50
easy VS1 of 50
hard HS0 of 50
HS0 of 50
easy HS0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 49
5b0 of 49
easy 5b1 of 49
hard 5a1 of 49
5a29 of 49
easy 5a11 of 49
hard 4c7 of 49
4c0 of 49
easy 4c0 of 49
3 Stars3 of 46
2 Stars13 of 46
1 Star27 of 46
0 Stars3 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 215 (5.1%)
Lead113 of 215 (52.6%)
Followed73 of 215 (34.0%)
Toproped4 of 215 (1.9%)
Unknown14 of 215 (6.5%)

'Climbed'94 of 215 (43.7%)
clean O/S89 of 215 (41.4%)
clean β3 of 215 (1.4%)
clean rpt10 of 215 (4.7%)
clean RP2 of 215 (0.9%)
dogged10 of 215 (4.7%)
dnf4 of 215 (1.9%)
Unknown3 of 215 (1.4%)