Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Finale Groove* VS 5a

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16m. The oddly-named first crack in the face. The crux requires some beefy pinch-gripping then things ease. © ROCKFAX
FA. David Penlington 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 196 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Phil Wadsworth

mol - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Jesse

farmerwad - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/14

riddle - Lead dog - 12/Apr/14 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/14

martinbettridge06 - Lead - Mar/14

masa-alpin - 2nd β - 11/Aug/13 with Andy Rich

sshandy - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Masa - Avalanche Valley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Keith Poskitt, Trish Darling

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/13

DeanD - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Mike Brookes

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13

Reds - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

althesin - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

giuly - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders

slacky - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders

Hidden - TR - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

First VS!
Ramblin dave - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Paul B

Good lead by Dave
cem - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/13 with Paul Baxter, Dave Sim

AlanPedrick - 2013

sazmaz - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/12 with Frank Ramsden

sazmaz - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

Tricky crux move at half way point. Managed to reach right up and grab finger jug.
davemcummings - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Des

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/12

hangover climbing urghhh but pinches wow !
ashtond6 - Lead - 02/Sep/12

Dan Vaj - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/12 with Jonathon Clark

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

Barry D - Lead - 22/May/12 with Juan

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Rachel B

Batt - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with James Hoyes

sopaz - 2nd - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/May/12

HB1 - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/12 with KB

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Apr/12

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Ian JL - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nordie_matt - Lead dog - 26/Dec/11 with Matt JM Stevens

Such a stupidly awkward route!
Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 26/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/11

proper workout for the arms, this one
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Stu, Robby

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

As the guidebook said "on jams, pinches and layaways" - it didn't lie...
charley - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Calder - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Mike B

Really nice climbing throughout. No surprises on good pro.
wishicud climbHVS - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Big Fat Dan

bigdan050 - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with ash green, Tosh

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/11

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11

Felt hard and runout.
petellis - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Jenny Clarke

Fell off at crux, cam popped out. Luckily lower cam held. Ended up with my head six inches off the ground and unhurt. Still shaken!
Jim Brownlow - Lead dnf - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

wolverine - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 15/May/11 with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz

Mikael - Lead - 14/May/11

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

geddicakes - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with James Restorick

found it very tricky and strenuous for the grade. Had a cam rip when I fell just at the crux and hit my belayer. I was fine but a bit scared. didn't like it.
THardSevere - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11 with emily moore

ajc - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - Lead - 16/Apr/11 with The Bad Cough

hang_about - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

pete1993 - Lead - 02/Apr/11

Brannock - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

cem - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Graham Dolman

RalphC - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Ali

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

Good. Quite tricky for the grade.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Saffra

Good moves all the way
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Barry fatbuoy McRobb, Wavey Davey

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Scotty Mc, daveyw

wildrover220 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Royston Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Ollie Houston

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Nick Briggs

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

petegruf - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with brad j

jon bradley - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Huw Howells

Shauna - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd - 28/Apr/10 with Shauna Cunningham

max_chan - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Lou

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Cat Tabbner, Max Streeton

migs493 - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with LO

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

JHiley - 2nd - 21/Mar/10

nickcanute - 2010

lithos - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with paul cookson

Found it quite strenuous because i'm really unfit at the moment. haven't a clue what this beefy pinch thing is all about.
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Pete V

Excellent fun, hard vs for me. Felt fine and wondered what the "beefy pinch" fuss was, and then found out! Surprisingly strenuous.
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Sarah Davis

barrylong - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Karl PCC

Karlos - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Random

Rampikino - Lead - 31/May/09 with Cat and Shirley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Brilliant
mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

keith leonard - 2009

skittles - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Andy Hext

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/08

bridget143 - 2nd RP - 23/Jun/08 with Brown

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Bridget

Kirill - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/08 with Paul Bolton, Lara

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Lara Thompson, Kirill Spiridonov

cem - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/08 with Mark O'Neill

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 14/Jun/08 with bob3141

bob3141 - 2nd - 14/Jun/08 with Jesse Dufton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/08

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Tried to lead it, and failed
Laurence Everitt - 2nd β - 03/Nov/07 with Tammy Hughes, James Cross

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/07

MeMeMe - 2nd - 07/Oct/07 with Nick and Andy

russonly - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with JonH

MD - 2nd - 16/Sep/07 with Misha

Ropeboy - Solo - 09/Sep/07

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with sean

Good route, well protected with cams, committing moves and steep
Pilch - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Graham

not too strenuous? I got to get out more!
EdShep - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Pilch

Budge - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie

Fantastic route, lots of gear and not too strenuous. Pinches and jamming all the way up. I wish I'd led it.
climbingpixie - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with James

gazfellows - 2nd - Apr/07

peter myers - Lead - Apr/07 with Rebecca Coles

steve taylor - 2007

Pete Horn - Lead - 2007 with Mark

Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

John Lisle - 2006

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/05 with Natasha Geere

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Mar/05

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/04

chrishedgehog - 23/Apr/04 with Erwin Bottomley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/03

Hidden - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

mikej - 2nd - 14/May/00 with Nick Salmon

John Marsland - 2nd - 09/Apr/00 with Duncan Bourne

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/99

rlrs - Lead - 1999

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1999 with Ian Smith

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - Aug/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/98

craig h - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/97 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/96

Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/95 with Alan Nuttall

Iain Thow - Lead - 26/Aug/95 with Rosy Wright

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/95

Yourlead - 2nd - 12/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

andrewbooth1000 - 2nd - 07/May/95 with Ed Lewis

colin milton - Lead - 04/May/95 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/95

Roget - Solo rpt - 27/Jun/92

Roget - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/92 with JT

Laramadness - 2nd - 30/Jun/91

babymoac - Lead - 26/May/90 with Graeme

Raggar - Lead - 06/May/90 with Steve B

I'd led it in the dim and distant..
Andy Say - Solo - 25/Nov/89

Hidden - 1986

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Mar/85 with Charlie Leverton

malc - 2nd - 03/Jun/84

mark-abz - TR - 18/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Solo - 08/Jan/83

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/79

Nigel Bond - Lead - 02/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/75

RichardMc - Lead - 06/Jul/75 with Les Gillot, Ken Salter, Betty Seifert

Dave Musgrove - 08/Oct/72

mikej - 2nd - 26/Jan/69 with Wil Hurford

mikej - 2nd - 06/Oct/68 with Ian Clayton

mikej - Lead - 18/Feb/67 with Nigel Sumner

mikej - TR - 09/Oct/66 with Keith Gegson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WhipperSnapper, alp79, mapperley samurai, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 130
hard HVS0 of 45
HVS1 of 45
easy HVS5 of 45
hard VS9 of 45
VS29 of 45
easy VS1 of 45
hard HS0 of 45
HS0 of 45
easy HS0 of 45
hard 5b0 of 44
5b0 of 44
easy 5b1 of 44
hard 5a1 of 44
5a28 of 44
easy 5a7 of 44
hard 4c7 of 44
4c0 of 44
easy 4c0 of 44
3 Stars3 of 41
2 Stars12 of 41
1 Star23 of 41
0 Stars3 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 196 (4.6%)
Lead104 of 196 (53.1%)
Followed66 of 196 (33.7%)
Toproped3 of 196 (1.5%)
Unknown14 of 196 (7.1%)

'Climbed'89 of 196 (45.4%)
clean O/S81 of 196 (41.3%)
clean β3 of 196 (1.5%)
clean rpt8 of 196 (4.1%)
clean RP2 of 196 (1.0%)
dogged7 of 196 (3.6%)
dnf3 of 196 (1.5%)
Unknown3 of 196 (1.5%)