UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a shuffling traverse out to the left to gain the final easier slab. © Rockfax

FA. Bert Smith 1934.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Quantum 20 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route hadn't done it for years, and it was fantastic redoing it. Medium cams protect the crux moves low down and on the traverse. Easy top out. Take some extra big cams for the belay.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route hadn't done it for years, and it was fantastic redoing it. Medium cams protect the crux moves low down and on the traverse. Easy top out. Take some extra big cams for the belay.
samwhiteley 23 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good little problem
βeta?
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βeta: Good little problem
MorganMcGlade 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of gear spots. weird getting out of the chimney at the top
βeta?
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βeta: Lots of gear spots. weird getting out of the chimney at the top
victim of mathematics 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route, but the upper slab is disappointingly easy.
βeta?
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βeta: Really good route, but the upper slab is disappointingly easy.
Monk 28 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think if you were pushing your grade on this route it would be amazing. If it is well within your ability it is good but a bit of a one move wonder.
βeta?
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βeta: I think if you were pushing your grade on this route it would be amazing. If it is well within your ability it is good but a bit of a one move wonder.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 273
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 252
Votes cast 257
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
April Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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