Derbyshire > Birchen Edge >
 
Cook's Rib* E1 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Gun-Cotton Groove
 
Horatio's Direct >>
12m. Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete lowers the grade to 5b, not bad for an ancient Severe. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

too bloody hot!
Angus Taylor - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/14 with mark duncan

No arete. Quite tough 1st part to be fair, using poor crimps and sloopers, gear good though and easier after that
Mark Duncan - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/14 with James Rogers new

Well over graded more 5a! Than 5c.
scott mayled - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14

Jonny Harrison - TR dnf - 29/Apr/14 with Hugh smith and scotty maylead

With arete and some reach 5b is fair
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with liv_the_div

Jonny M - TR O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Barry McRobb

Hidden - TR rpt - 21/Apr/14

phildawson - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Magda Bo

Nice 5c flash.
jamesrogersakathebeast - Lead - 2014 with Mark Duncan

andy.smythe - Lead - 02/Jul/13

adamashcroft - 2nd - 02/Jul/13

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13 with Trev Tatler

First e1
antdav - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

gazfellows - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Nic

A lot of up and down placing the cams. Guidebook says left arÍte in, I used it, felt easy for 5c
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 31/May/13 with Paul Davies

daviesp2 - 2nd - 31/May/13 with Tom

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Paul Hazell

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/12

Tried this a few times on previous visits, finally got brave enough.
adam carless - Solo RP - 15/Sep/12

Wayne S - Lead - 20/Jul/12

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Tor Nockles

Without aretes. Slight wobble pulling over the crux. First E1.
Thony - Lead O/S - 08/May/12 with Charlotte

cammi - TR - 02/Apr/12

Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Nathaniel Gjoderum-Symons

Nathaniel Larsson - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/12 with Ross Cooper

Hidden - 2012

Nordie_matt - 2nd - 28/Dec/11 with craig morrison

belay bunny turned bad - Sent - 14/Oct/11 with loundsy

spacey - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with jo macey

I was the only person at the crag at the time, which was both nice and a bit unnerving.
Brian Rodgers - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/11

waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Antony Davies

antdav - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Wayne

Hidden - Solo - 28/May/11

lozowen - Solo - 24/May/11

Did the 5b arete
edmitchell - Lead β - 02/May/11 with Emma Rowe

emmarowe - 2nd - 02/May/11 with ed mitchell

Sam..Oliver - TR - 26/Apr/11

stpauliblade - TR - 26/Apr/11

shepman - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

Jokysparrow - Lead - 24/Apr/11 with shepman

No aretes - thought it was quite gentle for the grade
Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11 with Dave Saxby, Terry

RHarding - 2nd - 05/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Fell off which still hurts!
peteJ23 - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Scruffster

Half a star.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Max

1 nasty move but a bit of nerve would give you a good first E1 lead.
Dhcol - TR O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Glynn Dignum

mic_b - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/10

The Mountain Goat - 2nd dnf - 21/Mar/10

r@bag - Lead RP - 21/Mar/10 with Dan Wicks

phil stubbs - 2010 with Matt Wilson

Fluffable crux, slightly dirty top slab.
Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/09 with LUUMC

great first E1 climb Stretchy middle section
maxkellock - TR O/S - 08/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09

rubygem - 2nd - 07/Aug/09 with toby schofield

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Fell from the hard left crimp onto the slab. Descended to the floor and repeated clean on second attempt.
Ben_Bullbridge - 2nd RP - 16/Jun/09 with Milne

good moves and solid gear for grade. no use of either arete.
Milne - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with cooper

Got over the bulge with a struggle using the small crimp the blew the 5C by instinctively reaching for the arete! I'll take the 5B with the arete with a smile though. :-)
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Paul Taylor

paul76 - 2nd - 18/Apr/09 with Phil Mews

BicepAndrews - Lead dog - 13/Apr/09 with Adam Self

Hidden - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2009

tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Jens Verhagh

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead RP - 04/Oct/08 with Mac

Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - Sep/08 with Rob Richards

Used the arete.
donkster - Lead O/S - Jun/08

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Brian and Dave

mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/08 with john and chris

Chris wilson - 2nd - 01/Apr/08 with Ryan, John F

john lynch - TR - 09/Mar/08 with rich armour, Bo Robertson

Hidden - TR O/S - Feb/08

The arete is even harder to keep your toes off the your hands!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07 with Steve

Oceanic - 2nd - Aug/07

Rampikino - Lead - 22/Jul/07 with Cat

Hard to place solid gear then one good move over the bulge
Marvino - Lead - 11/Jul/07 with Rach

Had a couple of attempts at the crux.
rachelwheatcroft - 2nd - 11/Jul/07 with Marvino

tallsop - TR RP - 11/Apr/07 with andy

dicky79 - Lead RP - 14/Oct/06 with Pete

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/06 with Shane

Rampikino - 2nd - 23/Apr/06 with MMC Various

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/05

Alex Mason - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with andy g

crag_monster - Lead - May/05

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/04 with SUMC

Adam Potter - 2nd - 22/Aug/04

Stefan - TR O/S - 13/Jun/04

m675bowsl - Lead O/S - Apr/03

phardman - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/02 with Teresa

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/02

CrashMat Rob - Lead RP - 04/Apr/99 with Nicky

ajoliver - TR - 29/May/98

Hidden - TR - 22/May/90

Mark Kemball - Solo - 26/Nov/78

mikej - Solo - 17/Apr/71 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lgp81, mop449, Hidden, Robb.Haze, Hidden, sammyt, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E20 of 15
hard E11 of 15
E110 of 15
easy E13 of 15
hard HVS1 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c4 of 15
5c8 of 15
easy 5c1 of 15
hard 5b1 of 15
5b1 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars2 of 14
1 Star11 of 14
0 Stars1 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 99 (11.1%)
Lead50 of 99 (50.5%)
Followed19 of 99 (19.2%)
Toproped14 of 99 (14.1%)
Bouldered1 of 99 (1.0%)
Unknown4 of 99 (4.0%)

'Climbed'41 of 99 (41.4%)
clean O/S42 of 99 (42.4%)
clean β1 of 99 (1.0%)
clean rpt3 of 99 (3.0%)
clean RP7 of 99 (7.1%)
dogged1 of 99 (1.0%)
dnf4 of 99 (4.0%)