Rockfax Description
A superb route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips many a suitor. Pull right over a narrow overlap and climb the wall on small sharp holds (looks harder than it is) then continue to ledges. Fill the horizontal break with runners then swing around the rib and power up the hanging flake. Only the weak are spurned, though the timid may have a hard time too. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Edgar 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E2 ticklist.

tom_lewis89 16/Nov 2nd

Dogged my way up after a brilliant lead from Marcin. Tough!

with Marcin
Mowglee 01/Nov 2nd O/S

Great route, pretty close to coming off at the lower crux. Very hot, shirts off in November!

with Jamie
JamieSparkes 01/Nov Lead O/S

Hard work in the baking sun. Tops off in November though so can't complain!

kermit_uk 30/Jul Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for ages and didn't disappoint. What a pitch! Well chuffed!

with Michelle
C May 24/Jul 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 24/Jul Lead β

Amazing route. Almost as good as Fern Hill. (Mostly ignored the planet fear write up but had read it, so I guess β)

with C May
harry_lewis 21/Jul 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul Lead dnf
M_Robinson 09/Jul Lead dnf

Wimped out, was exhausted after the last two routes

with Ben Selbie
Budge 03/Jul TR dnf
with Ade
danielroymoss 12/Jun -

the horizontal crack was weeping half way whioch made it very difficult

CharlieMack 08/Jun 2nd O/S
with Jim Burton
ChrisBrooke 06/Jun Lead O/S

Found this a lot harder than Fern Hill. Quite technical climbing. Made a bit of a meal of it in the process of figuring it all out. Looked bold from the ground but managed to get plenty of gear in all the way, including behind the flake at the top - I'm not one to run it out if I don't have to :)

with Duncan Bell
Hidden 05/Jun Lead O/S
benw681 04/Jun Lead O/S

A totally brilliant route.

with Jake
bigdrew 03/Jun Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/May Lead

So good, did the top in slow mo for picks

soph 25/May Lead rpt
with Chris Handy
oread 25/Apr Lead

As close to an onsight as possible with Callum falling before the crux

ashtond6 25/Apr Lead rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd
Phil79 01/Apr TR dog

Fantastic climbing, foot popped at top of layback. Will be back to lead in better conditions.

with Steve H
greenclimb 15/Mar Lead rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Mar Lead O/S

What a bloody great route. One of the best grit E2s

with Rich Lindsay, Al Willoner
adam 24 07/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Feb 2nd RP
Hidden 11/Jan Lead dog
Scooter Young ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Sam Simpson 19/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 04/Nov/14 Lead
with Sam hamer, Ed
robertmctague 01/Nov/14 Lead G/U

second go, hard.

Andy Peak 1 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Rite up ther with the rasp as the best E2 on grit.

with H washbrook
deacondeacon 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great stuff!

Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead β
JamesTurnbull97 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
climberchristy 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wow! Just brilliant! Middle section is committing but, as guide book says, not as hard as it looks. Then a great rest before the best top-out! Hard move getting up into layback on final flake. Worth more than 3 stars!

with Ben Cole
stuaart ?/Jul/14 2nd


with Neil Redgrave
simon1965 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with James
Stig 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ash Sayers 19/May/14 Lead dnf

It rained.... I fell.

ianjfsutcliffe 07/May/14 2nd O/S
with Jonny
thrutch 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed by a tramp.

with Sven
PaulTanton 04/May/14 2nd rpt
with Alan Barnes, Mark Grist
Alistair Corbett 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Mark Grist 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Gus 15/Mar/14 Lead


with Neil "Nige" Kershaw, ben rouse, simon "the horse" wilson
ashtond6 24/Feb/14 Lead

silly tiny dog at top, break was wet so didn't trust my feet on layback! best route on grit?! the face climbing crux is superb

Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2014 -
Gympaul ??/2014 -
theomoore ??/2014 Lead G/U

Awesome, hard

Ross.Cooper 07/Dec/13 Lead dog

Took a few falls working the lower crux

Patrick Hill 07/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Ethan 02/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Don Walker
Dirk Uhlig 25/Nov/13 -
Hidden 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
switch 19/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Vun, Ben Couch
dominic lee 28/Sep/13 Lead
with daniel lee
Jack.H.92 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great stuff.

nickdonohue 27/May/13 Lead
with Ian Bryant
mgeek 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S


with Neill Busby
sgl0jd 22/Apr/13 Lead
Si dH 20/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 08/Apr/13 2nd
Will Hunt 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Awesome awesome awesome. The lower crux is super.

Alex@home 07/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
climbingsheep 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Mike Watson
mwatson 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Nov/12 Lead

what a lovely lower section! top is allright too. easier and better than fern hill i think

with ben
James Oswald 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Superb route. The climbing is simmply sublime and superbly varied. Simply ace

Hidden 15/Oct/12 Lead
soph 12/Oct/12 Lead
with John McCune, Annelies Sarrazyn
Jethro ?/Oct/12 2nd
Matt Cooke 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
barni 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Merlyn, Bob
Daniel Heath 07/Sep/12 Lead RP

Seconded this last year. Powerful moves

with Coel
dr_botnik 25/Jul/12 2nd dog

caught a 5 metre wipper off the top move on belay, got lifted 10ft off the deck!

tonanf 24/May/12 -
with andy
highrepute 19/May/12 Lead β
Joe Costello 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Immense! Back in the game after too long away!

with James
david morse 17/May/12 Lead rpt


with nathan lawrence
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Si dH 12/May/12 2nd rpt

Went up on lead, fell off the first crux - think I got the sequence slightly wrong, ended up crimping on nothing with my right and the nothing broke. Got through it second go but then didn't have te psyche to go for the top properly after I'd already blown the onsight, so just tried the move in to the flake then escaped off. Then seconded Olly up it afterwards, who cruised it. Think the first crux is way harder than the top for me, was very surprised.

with Olly
Graham C 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

This route is SO good, possibly my new fav on grit. Ryan also led suicide wall in a one-er and fern hill, all in perfect conditions.

with Ryan
Trevera 25/Feb/12 Lead
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Mr. K ??/2012 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the first crux so lowered off in the hope of increasing subsequent route time!

Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Gallant 20/Nov/11 Lead rpt

Sketchiest I've felt in a very long time. Such a good route though.

Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 20/Nov/11 2nd dnf

sooo hungover could barely put my own shoes on. (sobering up all day until we tried this just before it got dark. cracking lead from john though, very impressive, although kinda cold hands from belaying. Sacked it off before the flake, just could not summon any enthusiasm.

with HPC
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead rpt
thomb 23/Oct/11 Lead dog

took a while to work out the lower mantle move (kept stepping up too far left), but otherwise all good. a stunning route!

phil64 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with nick gillett
Adam_42 04/Oct/11 2nd β

Great route. Had a bit of trouble with the mantleshelf at the start, but the bit in the flake was awesome. One to lead when I'm up to that level.

Hidden 04/Oct/11 Lead
drysori 02/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
msoldn 24/Sep/11 Lead β

Brilliant! Slab at bottom felt like the technical crux. Layback sequence at top well protected, if you can muster the strength to hang about that is.

with Sam
Chris_barr 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with James
simon1965 03/Sep/11 Lead

Unfortunately had one quick rest before the layback, tried to go up onto flake too soon. Got it easily once traversed slightly further left. Still scary for me though.

with dom
domskezz ?/Sep/11 2nd
with Si
Brown 07/Aug/11 Lead
with Tim
Hidden 07/Aug/11 -
M_W_Court 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I have a new favourite route on gritstone! This is pure joy climbing.

with Pagey
JRae 30/Jun/11 Lead

Layback is committing but fine if you keep moving and don't faf. Such a good route, one of the best ive done on so far on grit i reckon!

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 14/May/11 Lead O/S

AMAZING, well pleased to get this and fairly easily too, thought the fantastic crux sequence to gain the rest ledge was reasonably hard but the rest of the route felt about HVS 5b. One of the best E2s I've climbed.

akhughes 04/May/11 Lead O/S
JRae 04/May/11 Lead dnf

with P Latham
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett 01/May/11 Lead β

ok once you go for it!

billb ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Souljah 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark and Andi
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
spidey 02/Apr/11 Lead


with Jimmy
Hidden 14/Mar/11 2nd
quiffhanger ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/11 Lead dog
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Chubbard 24/Oct/10 2nd dog

Thought layback ok but getting up to it hard.

with C Godfrey
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
petegunn 20/Oct/10 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Gazleah 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with paul jones, tom ireson
Andrew Barker 06/Oct/10 2nd

Fun technical start and burly finish.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Paul D Jones ?/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Gaz
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 18/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Si 2
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead
MeMeMe 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
riddle 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Stunning route, will lead next time.

tigertim 05/Sep/10 2nd

Would love to repeat on lead, though quite delicate in middle section.

Hannes B 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Emmsi
Dave Foster 27/Jun/10 Lead

One stupid fall when I muffed getting into the flake at the top, think I tried to go too far right rather than starting at the base and greased off the hold. Annoying as I'd spent five minutes resting/psyching up on the ledge so felt really fresh. Went fine second go.Wouldn't want to lob off the top though, it's a matter of get gear in and fail or press on and risk a monster. Surely one of the best E2s on grit, so varied and excellent throughout.

with Andy
drcorbasisgod 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 21/May/10 Lead β

Lead on Ivan's gear

with Steve, Ivan
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead dnf
nacnud 05/May/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 05/May/10 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/10 Lead
with Rich Cross
Hidden 06/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead
bigie bob 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Tony Little 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Simon
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead
Cragrat Rich 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

I've never, ever been so pumped and close to falling off as I was at the top of this route... seriously - it's a full on buzz!

Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Lead
DavidEvans 15/Apr/09 2nd
with Jules Vulliamy
eddy-on-the-rocks 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
tuftynick ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with ben winston
dominic lee 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
metal arms 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
DannyK 20/Feb/09 Lead dog
with pep
Oli 18/Nov/08 Lead β

On Tom's gear.

with TomPR
Misha 18/Oct/08 Lead

Rested on the gear in the horizontal break as the crux looked really hard, then just went for it, turns out it gets easier the higher you get. Should put this as 'led with falls' but just put 'lead' so it would count for Extreme Rock ticklist!

Paz 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Onsight given I'd read 17 online articles about the route.

with TS, SC
Tim Steward 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with James Parrot
Alex Mason 15/Sep/08 Lead rpt

quite tired as last route of the day, having fallen off top lay-back before and flicked upside-down it felt scary. awesome route though.

with Andy Reeve
Dave Rumney 31/Aug/08 2nd

raining heavily

with Sean Roberts
Hidden 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Julian Mowbray 26/May/08 2nd O/S
with Richard
TomHaigh 03/May/08 2nd dog
with Fraser
IanJackson 03/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Tim Steward ??/2008 2nd O/S
with James Parrot
lukehunt ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Ian Jackson
timbanton ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
tuftynick ??/2008 -
NeilGriffiths ??/2008 2nd
with Simon Frost
willackers 06/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead
frost ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths, Adam
russonly 25/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Made it to the traverse under the layback. Faffed until i needed a head torch - it didn't help me!

with AndyN
Chad123 ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Classic route with some very cool moves. Not too hard if you just keep going when starting the top section.

with Rik and Viv
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Pete Graham ??/2007 2nd
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd O/S
cem 08/Oct/06 Lead dnf
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden ?/Oct/06 2nd β
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead
ASchwirtz 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Adam
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Apr/06 2nd
AJ007 13/Apr/06 2nd dog
with Dan
dan gibson 13/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
mbutton ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Laurie Saxton
Hidden 31/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
ellis ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/04 Lead O/S
WB 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Guy
Apharri ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 20/May/04 Lead
Hidden 15/May/04 2nd
Dave Bond 12/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
dominic lee 01/May/04 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
cornishben ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Gavin Edwards
Rich Malcolm 05/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Guy Tooth
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/03 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead RP
CrashMat Rob 22/Feb/03 TR
with Martin Whelan
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

prob my best onsight of the year

with Dan Holdsworth
Obi-Wan is lost... ??/2003 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Oct/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/02 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Adrian Casey
Hidden 28/Jun/02 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jun/02 2nd
with Andy Neath
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead O/S
highlux ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S

Got pumped at the top and felt a bit freaked momentarily. Cool cool route.

Brian Rodgers ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/01 2nd
andyblain ?/Jul/01 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 17/Jun/01 Lead O/S

Classic Grit E2

with Dave Taylor
CrashMat Rob 09/Sep/00 Lead β
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 26/Jul/00 TR
with Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
Hidden 21/May/00 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 26/Feb/00 TR
with Martin Whelan, Brian, Nicky
ian caton ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Matt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/99 2nd
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Steve Bell 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
chris sm 09/Sep/98 2nd O/S
with Jim Hall
Hidden ?/Jul/98 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/98 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
JulesV ??/1998 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 09/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Hidden 05/Jun/97 Lead
migs493 04/May/97 Lead rpt
with Steve Blake
Hidden 19/Apr/97 AltLd rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
sadams 27/Jun/96 Lead
with John Boyle
Hidden 12/May/96 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/96 2nd rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Mar/96 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 20/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
rob.grafton ??/1995 AltLd
with dean bradley
Hidden 24/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 30/May/93 2nd RP
Stoney Boy 09/May/93 2nd
with Andy Elliot, Bob Marks
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with J Hirst
Sean Kelly ?/May/92 -

Superb climbing! Repeated with Keith Bolton

with Duncan Lee
Hidden 12/Apr/92 Solo dnf
Roget 28/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden 12/Jul/90 Lead
Rich Kirby 20/May/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 09/Mar/90 Lead rpt
gordonday ??/1990 2nd O/S
with clive
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 27/May/89 2nd
with Dan Morgan
andybirtwistle 16/Apr/89 Lead
with Alec Burns
Hidden ??/1989 -
Gordon Stainforth 03/Jul/88 2nd

A superlative route, superbly led by Fliss. I found top very exciting and exited like a cork out of a bottle on the very last reserves of strength!

with Fliss Butler
Hidden 16/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 25/May/87 Lead O/S
rogerskews ??/1987 -

Steve strolled up it on lead, I was jolly puffed and chuffed by the top!

with Steve Walker
Tom V ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
John Marsland 21/Sep/86 Lead
with Dave Cousins
shark 17/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
Hidden 13/May/86 Lead
Hidden 10/May/86 2nd
Bruce Kerr 03/May/86 Lead
with Neville Elstone
Robmwatt ??/1986 -
Hidden 08/Jun/85 Lead
Chris Wright 28/Apr/85 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 2nd
with Andy Cave
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 2nd
with Bill Williamson
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1984 2nd
Hidden ??/1984 2nd
Mark Kemball 08/May/83 TR
with Paul Clark
keefe 05/Mar/83 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?/Jul/82 TR
with Brian W
charlesmfrench 12/Jun/82 2nd O/S
with Alan Bennett
stp 25/Apr/82 2nd

Think I've lead this too sometime.

Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead β
with Rich Lewis
Dave Musgrove 25/Jul/81 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
jonathan shepherd ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/81 2nd
Mark Kemball 18/May/80 Lead
with Jim Paxman
KRB 30/Mar/80 Lead O/S

Nice climb

with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 30/Mar/80 2nd O/S

Some say the Tiger Traverse ledge spoils the route,I beg to differ,it give me a welcome rest! I was at full stretch for the hanging flake,but once established romped to the top.Another Top lead Kev.

Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Mike Owen 15/Apr/79 -
with Keith Robertson
Hidden 29/Jan/77 2nd
petemeads ??/1977 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1976 Lead O/S


Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 78
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set