Rockfax Description
Beef a way up the steep crack at the left end of the wall, it gives a smart bit of jamming which manages to be slippery and sharp at the same time. © Rockfax

FA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1959

Hidden 11/Nov 2nd O/S
gavinpeach 08/Sep Lead O/S

Enjoyable crack climb with a nice crux sequence of jamming moves just before the top. Polish didn't seem to detract from the route.

with Scott
fifth 08/Sep 2nd O/S

The darkness made it quite good fun

with Gav
mrs milf 27/Aug 2nd

I`m going to rename this climb

with John Cook
PeteWilson 18/Aug Lead O/S

found this quite awkward and tiring!

with josh
James Lowe 09/Aug 2nd

Expected to get quite pumped but instead found it pretty enjoyable

with Fran
franhammond92 09/Aug Lead G/U

Had a go a while bag. Got it fine this time. Pretty pumpy.

eduardo 08/Aug Lead rpt
with Ian W
Rob Jarratt 02/Aug Lead

Getting a bit polished, but it yields to a positive approach and still has the big solid jams. Used my hex 10 for the first time in years. Good solid VS, not HVS.

with Bill McKee
Hidden 21/Jul 2nd O/S
Angus Taylor 21/Jul Lead O/S
Nick1812P 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd β
elfin girl 03/Jul 2nd dnf
with John Cook
Tom_Shill 27/Jun Lead
Hidden 23/Jun 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 19/Jun 2nd O/S
TobyA 15/Jun Lead O/S
with Tom R
pete1993 11/Jun 2nd O/S
with Calum W
Calum Wadsworth 11/Jun Lead O/S

Obviously used to be a class route, but now its stupidly polished

with Pete B
HannahGo 28/May TR dog
bigdrew 21/May Lead rpt
simon kimber 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Jez Portman
dom94 29/Apr Lead β
with shaun
shaunhumphreys 29/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead
Canyak ??/2015 -
Tony Holdsworth 25/Oct/14 2nd rpt

Also did one of the new routes across the road.

with Stuart Bolton, Peter Harris
georgenvk 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt
AidanMorris 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
MrBIond 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S
eduardo 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice smooth but snug jams, seemed pretty straightforward.

with Misha
OliverRoss 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Wil Treasure
drysori 29/Jul/14 2nd
rich_hw 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Will_PCC
robgixer 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 17/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Rob lead.

with Charline H, Rob G
Deezel65 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

With Kyle

vanderz 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
climbercrab 18/Jun/14 -
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 16/Jun/14 2nd rpt

ridiculous polish

Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
jamesclimbing 19/May/14 2nd dog
jamesclimbing 19/May/14 TR dog
drolex 30/Apr/14 2nd
jamesclimbing 24/Apr/14 2nd dog
Merlin 20/Apr/14 2nd dog

Horrendous! Very polished, slipped all over the shop! Escaped from the crack near the top to the left!

with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait
Matt Cooke 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
Hidden 05/Apr/14 Lead dog
James Oakes 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
dr_botnik 21/Mar/14 Lead O/S


with Andy
Andy Peak 1 21/Mar/14 Lead

In the Rain very slipey

PaulFidler 13/Mar/14 2nd dog
pulseroom 13/Mar/14 Lead
Derek Furze 07/Mar/14 -
Hidden 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
spenser 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Got up to the crux before deciding to down climb as I wasn't confident in my jamming ability, probably not the best choice for a first HVS lead.

Hidden ??/2014 -
amccann 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Matthew Ferrier 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sam, Mike, Alex McCann
Palindrome 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
tatz45 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
mapperley samurai 19/Jul/13 TR
with Ben Moss
danny_85 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

First climb with head torch.

with Hannes
ashtond6 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

great route!!! much better than it looks

alp79 30/Jun/13 2nd
davewsargent 26/Jun/13 2nd
with andy neath
Hidden 14/Jun/13 TR dog
jwpil 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 27/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jack
john lynch 26/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ed Austin
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 TR
with Clare Woolfrey, Ben Moss, John Cook
Tony Holdsworth 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Paul McCallum 06/Apr/13 2nd
with alex blaza
climbercrab ??/2013 2nd dog

very tiring and grunty trying to stay in the crack for the last 12 feet

mapperley samurai 24/Nov/12 TR dog

One careless slip.

with Ben Moss, John Cook
masa-alpin 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks. Good jamming route!

with Mitch
Hidden 13/Oct/12 -
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
treg 08/Sep/12 2nd


with Lynsey
cem 02/Sep/12 2nd
petellis 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with Sloth
Rachel Slater 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Olli-C 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brutal but commitment definitely helps. Worth much more than 1 star, the polish is almost a good thing in this case.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd
Wayne S 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/12 2nd rpt
MikeDowsett 18/Jul/12 2nd
with Andy Neath
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson 18/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
deacondeacon 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Done again. Absolutely soaked, horrible.

with Duncan
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead
Milne 29/May/12 Lead dnf

followed dave with a rest after failing miserably.

Hidden 19/May/12 Lead dog
Peakpdr 16/May/12 -
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
chrism225 09/May/12 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 09/May/12 Lead
with Chris
johncook 01/Apr/12 TR

Always a fun route.

lithos 29/Mar/12 2nd


with tony holdsworth, pete harris
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Stone, Peter Harris
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
climbercrab ??/2012 2nd RP
shouter 14/Aug/11 Lead
Mr. K 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
James Oswald 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Really good. Felt MUCH easier this time after falling a long way on it a year ago. Better at jamming, placing gear and going for it. Good to see the improvement.

Cake 20/Jul/11 TR O/S

Surely worth a couple of stars even if it is limestone

with Matt
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd RP
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 24/May/11 Lead rpt

Strenuous but perfect jams

with Adam Hughes, Ian Holtby
Chris Craggs 10/May/11 2nd

Solid jamming but 'uphill'!

with Graham Parkes
William_Rennie 01/May/11 Lead dog

Very pumpy, took trend left from crack and rejoined after big flake jug 3/4 up.

with Suz
Anthony Dixon 05/Mar/11 TR
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
James Oswald 11/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Got very pumped climbing this. Got through the crux. Felt too pumped to place any more gear. So carried on. Got more pumped. I then fell. I came within a metre of the floor. My top cam held. Was incredibly pumped and adrenaline filled for a good 40 minutes. Hex hit Mark's head. Must come back having improved my jamming! So glad the hex held!

gingerwolf 11/Sep/10 TR O/S
Matt Fry 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S


max_chan 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Steve Carty
spragglerocks 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Quentin Fisher
Ropeboy 06/Jul/10 Lead
with Bunny
DavidR 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Graeme Hammond 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

tom led this 1st and lowered off. I led after and tom re-climbed on 2nd again to practice his jamming after an impressive looking lead avoid the crack in the upper section first go

thomasadixon 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Ta Graeme, but much harder (for me) to stay in the crack! Really need to learn to trust jams...

with Graeme
mark20 30/May/10 Lead rpt
Dale ?/May/10 Lead dog

my first jamming practice for yosmite and first ever trad lead on a jamming crack. Really struggled rested on gear sevral times, but got up it then practiced it a couple more times after was getting up it okish then

with johny
Hidden 04/Apr/10 2nd
Justin T 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Felt pumpy at the grade but then I can't jam.

with Cherry
metal arms 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Bennykr 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Benji
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd dog
Si dH 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Chris Foster, Neil Furniss
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
danm 08/Sep/09 Lead
with Dan Arkle
bridget143 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Duncan Frisch
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
porridgefan 12/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Lead it in the dark after Joe Shaw retreated...

with Joe Ward
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A tough lead.

porridgefan 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S

slippery jamming crack, in darkness, no headtorch, puuurfect

with Joe Ward
catblack 11/Aug/09 2nd

Got my foot stuck/jammed in the crack and had to take my foot out of my shoe to free myself!

Hidden 11/Aug/09 Lead
IAmAStone 10/Jul/09 2nd
with Charlie Jefferson
Adam Potter 02/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
mark20 24/May/09 2nd dog

Rest to take out gear - honest !

smudge 22/May/09 Lead rpt

Ok, so I've done it three times. It now feels more like VS, think I was just weak before. Then again I know the moves, so the grade for on-sight maybe just about HVS. Did it in the rain, stays reasonably dry if the wind is in the right direction.

with Chris Dodd
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Dave Law
leepip 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with al mason
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
greenclimb 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
smudge 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Found it tough, so repeated it thinking I was just being a weed. It is still tough.

with Will G
TomHaigh 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Fraser
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Brown 21/Apr/08 Solo RP
Martin Haworth 03/Feb/08 Lead β

easy if you can jam

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 03/Feb/08 2nd rpt
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Fat Tim ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 28/Dec/07 Lead O/S

trying to make the most of a wet day, polished limestone is soo slippery, gripping.

with andy g
chris j 06/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Doug
chris j 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Doug
Pilch 19/Aug/07 2nd O/S

gets harder and steeper, but excellent jamming

with Simon
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
climber130887 26/May/07 Lead dog

a humbling climb. not technically difficult just very powerful.dont think i have ever been this pumped on a climb

with claire
Phil1967 11/May/07 2nd
with Dan
smudge 11/May/07 Lead
with Phil
Andrew Sloan 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Si dH 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S

This looked easy from below but turned out to be harder work than I'd expected - some awkward jamming and I think it is very slightly overhanging - theres no let up on your arms until the top.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd
JulesV ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 19/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 02/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/02 -
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
FrankW 15/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with James R
Roget 22/Jan/00 Solo rpt
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
JonBray ??/1997 Lead O/S
tlr 18/Nov/96 Lead
with Andy M
Roget 18/Dec/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Chris Ellis 09/Aug/95 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
colin milton 18/Jul/95 Lead
with eric milton
RossG ??/1995 -
Carl Smethurst 06/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 13/Apr/91 Solo rpt
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S

possibly lead at somepoint

Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Rob W
Hidden ??/1987 -
Neil R 12/Apr/86 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/85 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Apr/85 2nd


with Mick Moss
Chris Wright 14/Mar/85 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
Nigel Bond 13/Nov/83 Lead
with Nick
andy gittins ??/1983 -
malc 12/Sep/82 2nd
charlesmfrench 21/Feb/82 Lead O/S
Hammy 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
tapley 12/May/81 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 11/Apr/81 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
jcw ?/Jan/80 -
with Martin Harris
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/79 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/79 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Lead
with Mike Quantrell
Hidden ?/Nov/78 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/77 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/77 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 07/Jul/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Bolt Phobia 06/Mar/76 AltLd
with Martyn Hurn
Mark Kemball 18/Jan/76 Lead
with Mark Pearce
Tom V ??/1976 -
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1975 -
with Glynne Andrew
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 09/Oct/71 AltLd
greenbuoy 10/Jul/71 Lead
uphillnow ??/1970 Lead

done variously from 1967 inc 5.7.1979

mikej 01/Nov/69 Lead
with E
bob@daysmill ??/1969 Lead β
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pok, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 51
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set