Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the final break. Move right round the arete to find a precarious final couple of moves. Can be well protected with large cams. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| craig.england1 | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of cams required | ||
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βeta: Lots of cams required |
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| fenclimb | 24 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes. |
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| Si dH | 19 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams. |
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| leon | 17 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a |
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| Alex Mason | 20 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top |
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| gav p | 25 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS. |
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| Stefan Kruger | 7 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Chequers Buttress
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)