Rockfax Description
A rounded classic that used to be given VS. Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the final break. Move right round the arete to find a precarious final couple of moves. Can be well protected with large cams. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

svdie 11/Oct Lead O/S
Dan Geh 10/Oct Lead O/S
with Arjun
Hidden 10/Oct TR
DanChad 04/Oct 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 04/Oct Lead

Loads of gear all the way up (including the start).

Sean Kelly 03/Oct 2nd

Good climbing but bold finish!

with Chris Ebbutt
EllieWoods 03/Oct 2nd O/S
with Josey, Chris Brown
chris ebbutt 03/Oct Lead

Enjoyed the climbing so much forgot to place gear until half way up.

with Sean
harry_lewis 26/Sep 2nd
amccann 26/Sep Lead O/S
Mattlamb90 20/Sep Lead O/S
with Ad Aus
greenclimb 13/Sep Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 29/Aug Lead O/S

Good fun! Nothing strenuous but few very positive holds. Plenty of time to think and ok gear on most of it.

with Richard Williams, Katy Mouritz
BTphonehome 23/Aug 2nd
with Tony
tmawer 23/Aug Lead O/S
with Bram
RKirke 15/Aug 2nd O/S
Stroppy 15/Aug Lead O/S
Becks87 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Loved this! Would like to go back and lead but think the top bit would take me a long time to pluck up the courage!

with Adam L
atom 09/Aug Lead O/S

Wonderful lead, great exposure in the final section. Very bold finish moves. Came so close to fluffing the top.

Hidden 02/Aug 2nd
Matt Harmon 23/Jul Lead RP

seconded a few days ago with poppy, ended up back in the area and it was a nice route so went for the lead.

Hidden 16/Jul Lead
chisanga 15/Jul 2nd O/S
with Jim Reid, Stephen Lumb
bullwinkle 12/Jul Lead rpt
with Jon
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
Radical-G 07/Jun Lead O/S
paulwaterhouse 26/May 2nd
with James McHaffie
RosePearson 23/May Lead O/S
with Becky Howard
Andy Fielding 17/May 2nd
with Mike Walton
bigdrew 10/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May 2nd O/S
drysori 17/Apr TR
Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
Canyak ??/2015 -
Tim Rodgers 18/Oct/14 Lead
with David Forster
wazzalad20 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, steady all the way with a technical move at the top

with anna henshaw
ralphio 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S

One of the most absorbing climbs I've done with nowhere to really relax and get your head together. A bit like Hargreaves' Original but a lot steeper and more sustained. Plenty of cam placements but they are all quite flared. Had just enough left in the arms for the finish.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 24/Sep/14 2nd
with Ralph
mike8331 14/Sep/14 Lead
tim.fairhall 13/Sep/14 Lead
with Eric+Kasia
robman 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
tomB 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jake Young 03/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Olli-C 20/Jul/14 Lead β
with Barry, Weeds
Olli-C 13/Jul/14 2nd

Was a mixture of this and Wild and Wooley

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Sidekick 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 18/May/14 Lead O/S

A route that captures the Stanage style perfectly. Climbing breaks with thoughtful moves but from nice rested positions. Bold but reasonable. Just altogether pleasant.

with David Alcock, Ben Moss
davidalcock 18/May/14 2nd
climbercrab 18/May/14 2nd O/S

very fun route

C May 04/May/14 2nd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder ?/May/14 Lead
with C May
the power 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with deacon
fifth 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

A little bold at the top but good fun!

with Gav
gavinpeach 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Scott
markfairbank 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Wadsworth
farmerwad 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Mark
chris smith 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

You need a monster cam for protecting the top section.

with Malcolm watson
jogh 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Pete
youwillfindjimbo 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Oct/13 2nd O/S
elbeanio 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Andy Moles 25/Sep/13 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
sparkass 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Another damp route ticked today. The damp made this feel pretty serious with few actual holds and pretty dubious gear. This is excellent but would benefit from being dry.

madasten 08/Sep/13 2nd

Slopers, rounded holds and elephants arses. Not much else. Good though!

with Nicola, Gaz
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd β
gazfellows 08/Sep/13 Lead

Awesome sloper climbing at its best. Never desperately so but just enough t make you think!! Wicked....

with Billy nic, steff
Mowglee 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols, Ali
Mike W 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 2nd
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Fragmod 25/Jul/13 Lead
Deezel65 25/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Cool but nervy climbing on slopers

Hidden 12/Jul/13 -
Gudge 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Helen B
helin 05/Jul/13 2nd
with chris
Sam Simpson 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
migs493 16/Jun/13 2nd β

Stanage HVS

with LO
joesmith 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with tony
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
gavinpeach 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed. Felt straightforward but a great example of a good Stanage gritstone route.

psychicbread 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Gavin Peach
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Really good. Made more exciting by not having enough big cams.

with Kate
stevetheleg 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Theo Moore
Gambit 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Barney
Voltemands 20/Mar/13 2nd dog


with Amy Till, Carlene HIll
jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with big Si
Nick1812P 13/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Boy 14/Aug/12 Solo
hotfeet 12/Aug/12 2nd
with Fraser Campbell, Mark MacDonald
Blue68 12/Aug/12 2nd dog

Good climb, the sloppers at the top were scary, it was raining and I needed a hand over the wet sloppy top out

with Fraser Campbell, Alan Mountford
mtempest 09/Aug/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 09/Aug/12 Lead

Wished I'd had another huge friend for the top break as I felt the moves up on the right wall were the crux. Enjoyable and exciting and a classic Stanage grit outing.

Chris Craggs 28/May/12 2nd
with Dan Parkes
JamieSparkes 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Solo O/S
MoWalker3 06/May/12 -
Ricky Rocks 05/May/12 Lead O/S

v.cold hands and first trad for ages.

john lynch 13/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
deacondeacon 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route, has a 'popular end' feel to it being a rounded arete climb amongst the sharper quarried routes here.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 2nd
with Rich
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Will Hunt 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Really 3 stars?

Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
lizzie789 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf
lizzie789 29/Oct/11 2nd dog

This was tricky, was a bit miffed that I had failed to lead it, dogged it at point I had backed off...after this it was bloody hard, unless u are very good at slopers.

marcduhig 28/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Moved across onto the route to the right near the end. Ooops!

Nigel Bond 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
tsjx 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
djones66 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Interesting moves all the way. Gear is good for the first 2/3, mostly cams, but I didn't get anything good in the top 1/3 so felt a bit nervy - might be able to get in a Friend 5 (if I'd taken it with me. Recommended!

with Stve mc D
Tamati 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
rich_hw 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
caradoc 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

enjoyable finish

with nick yapp
Neil R 23/Jul/11 2nd
with John
Brannock 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Slopey, tough final moves as well.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
rurp ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/11 Lead
with Phil Ashton
gordonday 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with clive
fatbuoybazza 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
stratandrew 17/Apr/11 2nd

Very tricky slopers.

with Jim Symon, Colin Maddison
Fran S8 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/11 2nd O/S
max_chan 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Phil PCC
chris_B 02/Apr/11 Lead


louby 02/Apr/11 2nd
harold walmsley 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Neil McGovern
uphillnow ??/2011 -

ist lead about 1983. climbed most recently 25/6/2015

with Richard Griffiths
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
tri-nitro-toulumne 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
akhughes 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Dan led

with Adam Hughes, Dan McKinlay
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
DavidR 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
jtree03 24/Jul/10 2nd
with Tony, Brother Al
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
nick ferro 05/Jun/10 -

Really nice climb, interesting all the way and good gear (friends).

geddicakes 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Liam
liamoloughlin 28/Apr/10 2nd
Jonathan Hall 24/Apr/10 Lead
chrisallan 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Simpson
whiting.jp 18/Apr/10 Lead
with jamesca
The Bad Cough 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Christian Minett
drcorbasisgod 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
atom 08/Mar/10 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
AielSavage ??/2010 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Brown
ian d f 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Zak
Chris Craggs 04/Oct/09 2nd
with Colin Binks
Ketu 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/09 2nd
melonmike 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Lole
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
AJ007 20/Sep/09 Lead
dan gibson 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with AJ, michael porter
Hidden 14/Sep/09 2nd
tallsop 09/Sep/09 2nd
with Dave Saxby
Compo 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd O/S
johnwilson123 ?/Sep/09 -
with paul
craig d 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
babymoac 12/Jul/09 2nd
Lil'Lou 05/Jul/09 TR
Hidden 05/Jul/09 -
Ben1983 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Clee 27/Jun/09 2nd
with Steve
Different Steve 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clio
Hidden 25/Jun/09 -
Graeme Hammond 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

top route!! really enjoyed it though it would be a stinker without cams.

with Greg Slee
Reaver2k 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb! Sloping holds all the way up, and "not as good as you would like" cams! Found one moves quite hard about 1/3 height, the rest was just a bit pumpy and all round fun! Moved round right for the finish and found this to be the hardest/scariest bit! No real great gear and quite intimidating precarious moves!

with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca
garywong 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Thanks for the cams Perry!

with Perry Keller
figfour 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with ken
stuckonarock 21/Mar/09 2nd dnf

Retrieved all the gear then backed off final move due to the wind, cold hands and exhaustion! Fantastic first HVS by Mr. Phil.

with Phil M
boulderholder 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

First HVS lead, lovely climb although very windy.

with Helen R
al99 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Thomas
john.gaffney 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S

Quality, long way off leading it mind.

with Peter Morrisdaboss
morrisdaboss 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Handy Vicks
Mrs Weasel 28/Sep/08 2nd
JiveWeasel 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 28/Sep/08 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
HughM 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Shane Norton
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead β
Pete Randall 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Albie
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 2nd
with Will
smudge 20/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Rob
MikeLeeds 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 15/Aug/08 2nd
Another James 28/Jul/08 Lead

Didn't read guide properly before starting and at top stepped too far right and finished up the small crack instead of the groove. Still not too easy though.

with Jamie T
Jim Slater 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
swoosh 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Chris Vanderhoven

feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead
Chriswallis2 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jenny
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dan gibson ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 22/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Pilch 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Very big cam useful in top break, relatively straghtforward up to last few moves then a thin pull and brave step up leads to a vaguelayaway and a thoughtful exit. A Stanage classic

with Graham
malc 07/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Paul and Andy
Hidden 18/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/07 2nd O/S
OffshoreAndy 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
debbien1 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Really nice climb, one of my stanage favourites

with Robin
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead
Duncan Skelton 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kai Green
bullwinkle 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Paul, Abbi
dan gibson 16/Jun/07 -
mooseloose 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Ian Gas Bennet
mje1398 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with John M
Hidden ?/Jun/07 2nd
Stig 20/May/07 Lead rpt
with Maciek
Brown 01/May/07 Solo O/S
with John
John Marsland 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with John Haslam
Hidden 14/Apr/07 2nd rpt
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
cat22 ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 16/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Coel Hellier 13/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead
Tom M Williams 02/Jun/06 2nd
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 28/Apr/06 2nd
Stig 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Les
Nicos 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
Phill Mitch ??/2006 Lead O/S
with dave
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Walker
Hidden 06/Aug/05 2nd
leon ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

an incredibly windy day made the top section very exciting. i felt good on the climb but the top is scary. glad i had micro cams, without the top must warrant e1.

Lev 01/May/05 2nd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Alex Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S

steve led first so i just clipped the gear. not a bad route well rounded. id def give it e1

Ram MkiV ?/May/05 Lead O/S

felt more like E1 than HVS on this day but it was warm and i think i made a bad job with the gear.

with Alex Mason
reg_measures 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Angela Kirby
Dave Bond 13/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
johnboyrevel ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Big Mike
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Phil West 06/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with James ?
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
darren1 26/Jul/03 -
with Janna Miller
mikej 15/Jul/03 Lead
with Rick Naylor
chris sm 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
PenJD 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Jim and Matt
SMc 29/Jun/03 -
with Anne
Hidden 11/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Ropeboy 05/Apr/03 Lead
cem 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Led several times since

with Liam Mark, Neil Northrop
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
Pete Nugent 04/May/02 Lead O/S

Excellent but hard, very tr4icky finish on slopers.

sims 27/Oct/01 2nd O/S
with Nick
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
nige pacer 24/Nov/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Boy ??/2000 -
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/97 Solo
Mark Riley ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/96 Lead
goi.ashmore 02/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/96 Lead β

Used gear placed by Bill

with Bill G
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/May/95 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden ?/Jul/93 AltLd
Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Andy Say 28/Jun/92 Solo
rob.grafton 30/Jul/91 Lead
with Bruce
Roget 29/Jun/91 Solo O/S
NickJH ?/May/91 Lead O/S
with N Hancock
Hidden 14/Jun/90 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
steve prior ?/Aug/89 Lead
with Chris S
Hidden 04/Jun/89 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 06/May/88 2nd
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/87 Lead
shark 06/Jun/87 Solo O/S
John Marsland 29/Jun/86 Lead
with Dave Cousins
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/83 -
charlesmfrench 06/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/82 TR
Ken Taylor 20/Jul/81 AltLd
with Andy Bond, Richard Langthorp
Rob Davies 28/Jun/81 Lead

Figured out that Friends would make this safer

with Ian Smith, Mick Moss
Hidden 07/Sep/80 Lead
Mark Kemball 17/Mar/80 Lead
with Andy Stephenson
Nigel Bond 30/Sep/79 Lead
with Dave Grey
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 94
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 83
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set