28m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the Windhover arete to the base of the jamming crack then head diagonally across the excellent airy upper wall. The positions are almost unrivalled in the Peak. Once given an outrageous grade of VS and, although the start is now harder due to lost holds, the wild finish is the same as it ever was. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Jackson, B.Starkey 1964

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, The Peak: past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Matt77 09/Jul 2nd

Nails first move - no way its 5c. Steady, enjoyable climbing after that.

with Ben Williams
ChrisBrooke 06/Jun Lead rpt

Evening session with Andy. Got pumped on the first move so split it but led both pitches. Beautiful evening and no midges. A birthday treat :)

with Andy
Chriswallis2 22/May Lead G/U
with Mike W
tebs 15/May Lead rpt
with Adam
Brannock 07/May AltLd G/U

Success on the third attempt. Finally go to the end. Led p 2 and 4, crux on p4 easier if drop down at the peg rather than going straight across with hands in the break as I did the first time. Great route.

theomoore 02/Apr Lead rpt
Graeme Smithy ?/Mar Lead O/S

Hard start ok after that

Mike W 24/Oct/15 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 05/Sep/15 2nd RP

Took a few tries for first move. Upper traverse is sensational.

DubyaJamesDubya 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The start has definitely got harder since 2002/3 but once past that an absolute stunner of a route.

with Joe Norris
Mark Grist 23/Jul/15 2nd
with Tom Doldon
dan gibson 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
theomoore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really hard first move and then hvs all the way. Can see why it used to get vs.

dr_botnik 04/Jun/15 2nd dog

Got dragged up start, traverse is quite exciting, made more so by deacon running out of quickdraws and not putting any gear after the crux midway through said traverse.

with deacon
deacondeacon 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Not a proper onsight as I've lead windhover a few years ago. The start felt harder than before and the peg has gone. Really cool traverse.

john lynch 01/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead β
davewsargent 13/May/15 Lead dnf

Peg at 3 m has gone as of last night

BigTone 10/May/15 AltLd dog

First few moves on P1 felt powerful. P2 had a jazzy move near the peg and the final few moves up the crack are character building. VS, i think not. P2 lead.

markalmack 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with little tom
WB 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Charlotte
manwithacam 21/Mar/15 Lead

Climbed the crux starting moves earlier in the day. Last climb of the day in the late afternoon sun, great fun, a good first trad day of the year.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 21/Mar/15 2nd RP

despite having worked out the start moves for windhover earlier in the day, I still had to try three times before I got up on this last route of the day. The rest was very pleasant.

Joughton 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
Jake Young 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

having just seconded the flakes... Really good route. will have to tick the rest off.

Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd
ChrisBrooke 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Did in a oner this time, as it should be done. Fantastic pitch of climbing.

with Duncan Bell
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Split at the stance, should have just led through to the top in a one-er. Next time. Fantastic climbing.

with Alan PD
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
robw007 23/Jul/14 AltLd
eel 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Stig 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
admackie 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with andy
Andy Peak 1 12/Jul/14 2nd
Rachel Slater 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Brannock 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing, got a bit lost at the finish and ended over by flakes direct finish.

dom94 01/Jul/14 Lead

Can't really claim an onsight as I've already done Windhover. Awesome finish, though I did get a bit lost.

Misha 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S

The start is nails! 6a? Got it clean but it wasn't easy! May be some more holds have fallen off? First hard sequence to get the right foot on the good foothold, second hard sequence to get the finger jug next to the peg. After that it's plain sailing, only about HVS with perhaps a 5b sequence going over a bulge at the end, but very pleasant airy climbing. Phil had a right mare seconding and Ed wisely declined! On the whole, a very unbalanced route and although enjoyable on the top section I wouldn't say it's a Top 50 on Peak lime but worth a couple of stars. Abbed off Scoop Wall at 10.30pm and just made it to the Moon as it was about to close! Home for 1.30am - another great evening session.

with Ed, Phil
philhilo 30/Jun/14 2nd dog

Done before, remember start was hard, now its desperate! Frigged to jug, need to see how its done again. Rest is 5a/5b.

with misha
Andrew Wilson 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Apharri 30/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jim Gayler
simon kimber 14/May/14 2nd
with Will
Mike_Hayes 28/Apr/14 2nd
with Mike Lea
Hannes B 21/Sep/13 2nd
with Phil
The Reaper 08/Aug/13 AltLd β

Got some good beta for the start off Windy Ledge, still tough mind. Absolutely love the belay position on Windhover arete.

Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd rpt
blaza1 20/May/13 Lead O/S
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead
robin_hackney 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Led on Daves gear. Tough moves to begin with, then a bit of poor ropework early on meant that the final pull through the overhang was a lot tougher than it needed to be due to rope drag. Lesson learnt...

Dave Foster 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Steady away. Nice open climbing up top.

with Robin, Si 2
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

took quite a few goes to figure out the initial moves

with Jamie
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/12 Lead rpt
nai 05/Jul/12 2nd β
with Andrew
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant!! (mainly o/s but had done start of Windhover before which is the crux) fantastic upper wall traverse with loads of good natural gear there is no real need to clip the rusty pegs or the fluttery symbol in the latest rockfax guide. 3 star stuff :)

Dafydd Llywelyn 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S
cookacat 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Had to downclimb the start twice, reet'ard lyk.

with jamie s, Dafydd
Hidden 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tom.e 27/May/12 Lead O/S
JRae 02/May/12 2nd
with Jamie S, Liam P
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead RP
Si dH 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route. The top wall reminded me of Debauchery at High Tor, similar rock and style.

with Andy
Bill Lawrence 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

really steady, so many pegs think i placed 3 bits of my own gear. really nice moves and confidence inspiring all the way

Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead β
James Oakes 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Easy E2, brilliant route.

bigdrew 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

trickey shiny! start but great once you've got past it

with Andy
GuyM ?/Aug/11 Lead

tricky start

with will
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 28/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
mark20 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 19/Jun/11 2nd β
robw007 19/Jun/11 AltLd β
JRae 16/May/11 2nd

Really cool top section!!

with P Latham
Hidden 16/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
John Postlethwaite 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with liam
akhughes 06/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Apr/11 2nd O/S

And Adam

with Dan McKinlay
smudge 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Finally found a good sequence for the start. One of the best climbs I've done on limestone in the Peak, feels wonderfully exposed on the head wall.

galpinos 12/Sep/10 2nd
with Ben
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 2nd
tebs 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Reall good route. Not too hard after the start, which is nails.

with Dunc
decs 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Bart
Pown 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
catblack 29/Jun/10 2nd
Brian Rodgers 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
philhilo 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Start was tricky and rest was straight forward but steadily sapping. Great traverse. Strawberries and boots at base of abseil,thanks Lou.

mattyork2 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Rabb
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
robw007 ?/Jun/10 Lead β
thomasadixon 07/May/10 Lead O/S

Very good, not hard but really enjoyable.

with Mike
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
reg_measures ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with neil thomas
willackers 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Napier
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Chris the Tall 02/Jul/09 Lead β

Not exactly onsight - had just seconded Windhover which made a big difference - but still got gripped on the traverse. Ran out of draws, almost ran out of strength on the final awkward crack/bulge

with Matt B
simonp ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/09 2nd O/S
galpinos 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Nick V
middlevern ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead rpt
BenJacobs 17/Aug/08 2nd RP

took me quite a few times to get the start, fantastic position.

with PeakDJ
Hidden 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
russonly 21/May/08 Lead dog

Very good route. Probably is E2 IF there wasn't a really handy peg to protect the bottom, very polished section. The upper section is excellent HVS / E1 climbing with in situ pegs and plenty of other gear potential.

with AndyN
The old James turnbull ?/May/08 Lead
with aiden
IanJackson 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
lukehunt ??/2008 2nd
with Ian Jackson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Alex Mason 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Couldnt figure the start out for ages, got fustrating, so many pegs i think i only placed one of my own rocks at the start the rest was on pegs!

with andy g
Brown 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Walker
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Al
JulesV 03/Aug/06 2nd
with toby dunn
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 15/Jun/06 Lead
with sam
timbanton ?/Jun/06 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 05/Aug/05 Lead β
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
nige 21/May/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/02 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 05/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Cedric Favre
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
lost.arrow 19/Jul/98 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
leadmat ?/Feb/95 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/94 2nd O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with mik
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Roget 21/Nov/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 29/Jun/93 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/91 Lead rpt
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
Stoney Boy 22/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Martin Heath
Chris Wright 18/Sep/88 Lead
John Marsland 17/Jul/88 2nd
with Dave Soles
Hidden 02/Apr/88 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
with Leeds Crew
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1985 2nd dnf
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
with Phil Burke
Hidden ?/Oct/80 Lead
Mark Kemball 03/Jul/80 2nd
with Paul Clark
Andy Stephenson 25/May/80 Lead O/S

Awkward start, then very exposed. Only HVS at the time.

Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
rogerskews ??/1980 AltLd

Stunning route, outrageous positions for what is mostly VS climbing.

with John Blackburn
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow 30/Sep/79 Lead

repeated as second 13/3/16 with Graeme

with Al Bennett
Chris Ellis 15/Jul/79 2nd
with Dave Crookes
charlesmfrench 30/Mar/79 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Dave Musgrove 30/Sep/72 AltLd
mikej 03/Mar/68 Lead
with Wil Hurford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Bernie L, hutchay, Stig, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, BeccaSnowden, Sam1991, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set