Derbyshire > Horseshoe Quarry >
 
Demolition Man** 7a

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20m. A technical start and a finish that feels bolder than it is. There is also a finish to the right, which is harder, but less bold. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ian French, Mark Pretty
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Second go, after dropping the top moves on the onsight. Pleasantly powerful moves through the first three bolts are the best of this route, the top half is easier but less obvious. Would be high in the grade were it not split by such easy climbing.
MischaHY - Lead RP - 13/Sep/14

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Shane Donnelly

Second bolt is hard to clip and should really be placed a bit lower. After faffing there and then grabbing the draw I ended up just missing it out on lead and clipping it from the jugs above. Top bit is not too hard when you know where to go but the easiest way is not at all obvious. Like other routes on this wall finding the holds is often the hardest thing about them. An OK route, more like one star than two though.
stp - Lead RP - 18/Jul/14 with Julie

drcorbasisgod - Lead rpt - Apr/14 with Marc Weisner

done in about 2 degrees in 11th of january, repeated ascent
MartinPL - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/12

chiverstom - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12 with Sam Keyne

this was a really nice climb with a tricky start and finish. really good moves. got on 2nd attempt.
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 17/Sep/12 with david proctor, paul jones

Nails, tried easier 7b+s, not that Im an expert.
dprctr - Lead dnf - 17/Sep/12 with Henry Jenkins, Paul Jones

Fell of reachy move after last clip again.
James Oakes - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Keith Poskitt, Trish Darling

Great climbing, look out for cheky crimp above 2nd bolt
Nick Allen - Lead RP - 18/Aug/12

soph - Lead β - 07/Aug/12 with jon morgan

1st crux went fairly easily. worked top crux for a while but still not sure I got the right sequence
Mick r - Lead dog - 26/Jul/12 with Miles, Olli

Great low crux sequence, easy middle section and a hidden hold on the top crux. found it of benifit to put two opposing quickdraws on the top bolt (made the top crux calmer)
Gambit - Lead RP - 19/Jun/12 with Barney

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Lisa Marsh

Must come back and do this clean
drcorbasisgod - Lead dog - 16/Oct/11 with David Gilling

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/11

Fell off the last move twice going for the lead, one for next time.
James Oakes - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11 with Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence

Too hot and too hard for me. Was pretty pleased to be able to clip the first bolt (it's a long way up, and not an easy reach for the short). Not so pleased when I had to get the 'draws back, though.
jelaby - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/11 with CoffeePot

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead β - Feb/11

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 2011

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Dec/10

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/10

A good tough route, just a pity the two hard sections are split by much easier climbing.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Chunk

jamesgodwin64 - TR dnf - 21/Jun/10 with Phil Craven

felt more like 7a+
Leeds - Lead RP - 20/Jun/10

smudge - Lead RP - 07/Jun/10 with Will Kelsall

it all went wrong near the top, just couldn't do / figure out the sketchy moves above last bolt. great route though and it was v hot
jamiev - Lead dnf - 20/May/10 with Chris the Tall

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Andy and Eric

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Sep/09

sadams - Lead - 13/Aug/09 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/09

ASchwirtz - Lead RP - 29/Mar/09 with Misha

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Mike Todd

Completely shut down for a while, then finally made it to the last very difficult move near the top and failed.
sasmojo - Lead dnf - 07/Mar/09 with Mark G

robal - Lead O/S - 2009

hard for 7a, bottom felt like proper English 6b. Top stupidly run out. Not 2*'s!
Ian Broome - Lead dog - 04/Jul/08

Hidden - 2008

Mick B - Lead RP - 23/Jun/07 with Steve Pritchard

Andrew Sloan - TR dog - 20/May/07

Whitt - TR dnf - 06/Apr/07 with (Shunted)

skygodley - Lead RP - 16/Jun/06 with SarahM

shark - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/05 with John Codling

Hidden - TR O/S - Sep/02

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Aug/02

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/02 with Arnaud Leclerc

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - TR - 17/Aug/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/93 with colin

whispering nic - Sep/91 with slow hand nick

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/90 with Jon Barton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/89

shark - Lead - Feb/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Leo Woodhead, Hidden, Adam_42, Duz, crag_hopper_Jay, drcorbasisgod, pr1984, thefuturesmiles, Hidden, stoneguitars, Hidden, Chazz, Jarin, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard 7a+0 of 28
7a+1 of 28
easy 7a+2 of 28
hard 7a17 of 28
7a7 of 28
easy 7a1 of 28
hard 6c+0 of 28
6c+0 of 28
easy 6c+0 of 28
3 Stars4 of 19
2 Stars11 of 19
1 Star3 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....1 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead52 of 60 (86.7%)
Toproped5 of 60 (8.3%)
Unknown3 of 60 (5.0%)

'Climbed'9 of 60 (15.0%)
clean O/S11 of 60 (18.3%)
clean β3 of 60 (5.0%)
clean rpt4 of 60 (6.7%)
clean RP14 of 60 (23.3%)
dogged9 of 60 (15.0%)
dnf10 of 60 (16.7%)