Highland > Buachaille Etive Mor >
 
North Face Route** S

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[pete on the first pitch of north face route, 3 kb]220m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock.

Photo: pete on the first pitch of north face route © GD1234
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 210 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

MightyStew - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14

jev - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Eleonore, Stewart, HWUMC

Andy Moles - Solo - 18/Sep/14 with -

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/14

Top pitches were good. 1 and 2 forgettable.
Alastair MacSween - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/14 with Phil Warriner

Not a bad route, but don't think it's of Classic status. I did 1,2,4,5 pitches. Chimney pitch and last pitch were fun, rest scrappy and a bit pointless...
beds74 - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Colin Dyer

John Workman - AltLd - 07/Sep/14 with Lex

Mountain Gal - 2nd - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14

DundeeDave - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Justyna, Jenny Hare

I lead pitches 1, 3, 5 and 7. There are 2 "overhanging chimneys" next to each other at pitch 6, we did the left one. Someone put a video on youtube, I found this video very helpful for route finding https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5yEckFb5Hs8 Thank you!
daniela - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Anna

Jennie H - 2nd - 24/Jul/14 with justina, David

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 15/Jul/14 with Zack Coleman

TRFrost - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/14 with N. Price

As far as Hiccup
foostu4 - AltLd - 06/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/14

lithos - AltLd - 25/May/14 with karl c, jamie b

Superb route with amazing views over Rannoch Moor. Incredible exposure on the last pitch. Lead pitches 2 and 4.
Jamie Brown - AltLd O/S - 24/May/14 with Karl Claxton, Rob Stone

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 24/May/14

James & Jim also climbed as a pair
PieMan - 2nd O/S - 24/May/14 with Paul

calumhicks - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14

DavidMcK - AltLd - Apr/14 with Calum Hicks

IanGilbertJones - 2014

scottyskier82 - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Ben Brierley

stix - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13

Mapleleaf - AltLd - 27/Jul/13 with Jim Hall

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 27/Jul/13 with Judith Neaves

Ben_Megson - AltLd - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

papashango - AltLd - 12/Jul/13 with Craig

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

fuzzysheep01 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with James Lam

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Joe Norris

As far as Heather Ledge to start Hiccup
DundeeDave - AltLd dnf - 09/Jun/13 with Ewan Gourlay

Hyperopic - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dave

Led 1, 3, 5, 7
Darrell Read - 25/May/13 with Robbie King

robbiek - AltLd - 25/May/13 with Darrell Read

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

benny_m - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Su

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/13

captain - 2013

mjackson - 2013

DougSt - AltLd - 2013

I've done this before in nice dry conditions. Today the Met Office forecast was wrong, so the majority of it was wet. Still a good route- definitely climbable in wet nick.
Wee Davie - AltLd rpt - 06/Oct/12 with Steve McGill

Hidden - 06/Oct/12

Bob1984 - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Simon Taylor

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Mark B

first multy pitch route....had a great day & didnt fall..
mk 1 - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12

mrterrynelson - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Brian

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/12

tricky to find base. great route once on it. glencoe rock and ice climbs says step right out of chimney, I did this and ended up on dirty broken rock, it is clear that it is left onto an obvious ledge. Top pitch was great
scott gibson - AltLd - 13/Aug/12 with paul hainsworth

punj - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with john meechan

Brilliant route. Did as part of the link-up with Agag's Groove. Led pitches 2+3, 5, 8.
Mr Fuller - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Dave Watts

howlingbaboon - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Matt

Lovely route.
gurumed - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Mitch, Colin

Very good climbing.
colinerees - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Mitch, Gordon M

As approach to Hiccup
Ben Sharp - AltLd - 05/Jun/12 with Owen

worthwhile route. only did pitch 1 & 3 all part of a link up: north face route > hiccup > fracture route > crowberry ridge
OwenF - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Ben

olekemi - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with James C, Andrew T

bob johnson - 02/Jun/12 with Rich Ball

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/12

Great exposure on P3. Awesome weather (for a change).
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Dave Tait

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/12

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 02/May/12 with Welsh Tom, Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/12

g0rd0n davids0n - AltLd O/S - May/12 with Lenny shirkey, rab

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12

GraemeDiack - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Keith Alexander

TheAndyBarker - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

Niall B - 2nd - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/11

Liz Miller - AltLd - 24/Jul/11 with Tristan Hamade, Lynda Fenton

lead first pitch only, to get to Hiccup
cornishbekx - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

David Stevens - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Andrew Whale, Reuben Crook

awhale - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Reuben, Dave

Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - Jul/11

iansm - 2nd - 23/Jun/11 with Brian, John

Nice route especially the pitch before the chimney and the chimney itself
Badam - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Ian, John Jackson

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jun/11

jack 9895 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/11

from the top of Rock Climb only. Nice climbing & good gear.
karinh - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/11 with KeithAlexander

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11

morsy - AltLd - 02/May/11 with gerhard mors

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11

pitches 2,4,7. enjoyable but windy.
sneaks - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with janey

fall-line - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Erik Mackie, Karolina Mysiak

Followed Donald, Erik and Karolina. Don't know if I strayed too far right when meant to be following the edge on the 7th pitch (saw some crampon scratches, though). Got in a big mess with the ropes on one of the ledges and a hex got stuck on pitch 7.
markhammonds - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Claire Tunaley

gordon henderson - Lead - 29/Apr/11 with Kerry Johnstone

Erik_M - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Karolina Mysiak, Donald Slater

arduff - AltLd - 27/Apr/11 with Isi Oakley

Missed first pitch and started from heather ledge. January Jigsaw after, nice afternoon out :)
isi_o - AltLd - 27/Apr/11 with Andy Duff

centurion05 - 2011

adie84 - 2011

brianrunner - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

cold!
cogg13 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with dave laird

A great day out! Remained dry all day. Superb mountain route with airy traverses. We combined this with curved ridge to take us to the top.
mauchie - AltLd - 05/Sep/10 with Derek Graham

Very pleasant. Traverse under overhang exhilarating. Final pitch OK but pro is poor.
mastiffmat - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Maarten Krabbendam

Some bits of the route we definitely recognised from the description. Correct start, found the Heather Ledge (even if Steve did go to the top left instead of bottom right), found the recess (not sure about the bit after), definitely a chimney (my sort of pitch) then the slightly scary shuffle down the gravel before heading up the crack. Found our way to Rannoch Wall eventually.
Colin Matheson - AltLd - 14/Aug/10 with Stephen Loft

holly138 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Tom B

amy - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Elsie

brianrunner - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with martina

Some tough sections and not really 100% sure we followed the correct route. Quite exposed on the ledge half way up.
Koon - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Linda Corlett

Lead even numbered pitches
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Amy

Richard Alderton - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Ellie, Travis

Excellent! Great day out. Led P1, P4 and P6
EllieWoods - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Laura, Rich

up until heather ledge/ Hiccup in one pitch.
KeithAlexander - Lead - 06/Jun/10 with Jelle Muylle

Did a couple of pitches as part of the approach to Hiccup.
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Thomas Smith

thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Stuart Reeves

Did first half as approach to Hiccup which has a more logical line.
John 'B' Hutchinson - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Charles Hutchinson

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 17/Oct/09

Bailed from just above Heather ledge due to lack of daylight
oliverk - AltLd dnf - 17/Oct/09 with Tim Clarke

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09

Led the traverse, exposure at its best and the last (45m) pitch on the arrete.
steveadkinson - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Si

Hidden - Aug/09

It moves around a lot, but I think we managed the correct line. Scottish VDiff (British Severe)
gregoldridge - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Jared Rumble

SonicJ - 2nd - 11/Jul/09 with gregoldridge

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

A poor route on a miserable day. Not much worthwhile climbing.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with David Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

Nice route, loved the chimney and the slabby arete finish of D Scott.
jimorothy - Lead - 29/May/09 with Rachel Crolla

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 23/Aug/08 with Rob Horler

scott gibson - Lead - Jun/08 with john glendinning, steve lynch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08

Did first half as approach to hiccup. Nice climbing -led 2nd pitch
kevinknights - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08 with Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Boistelle - AltLd O/S - 07/May/08 with Jamie Bankhead

Hidden - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Charlie Prowse

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/07

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/07 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/07 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/07

My second attempt at this route, having completely failed to find the start the last time. Got to the Heather Terrace when the weather turned vile, strong winds, sleet and snow. We abbed off.
Howard J - AltLd dnf - 27/May/07 with John Waterhouse

alan wilson - 2007

Hidden - 2007

innesmac - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/06

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Duncan Hassell

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Rob

Captain Solo - AltLd - 01/Jul/06 with Jim Marshall

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 06/May/06 with Anne-Marie

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/06

maria85 - 2nd - 29/Mar/06

CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

bandersnatch - 2006

ZA - Jun/05 with UWCM CC

Novice - AltLd - May/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/05

timmy-ts - 2005

jaybob - Solo - 2005 with small group of gimps

keith leonard - Lead - 2005 with wife

Steve Lenartowicz - 2005 with Clare

Spade - Lead - Jul/04 with Jo Loughrey

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 16/Aug/03 with Laura

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Jun/03

Gman - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Carl

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/02

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/02

Rather damp
Dave Kerr - Lead - 13/Jun/02 with Colin Gregg

five - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with JT

Strictly, this entry is incorrect as we never actually found the route. We were too far left, wandered around for a while, and abbed off
Howard J - AltLd dnf - 17/May/02 with Steve Astley

the abmmc - AltLd - 2001 with Karl Rowe

Hidden - Lead RP - 2001

abbeywall - AltLd - Jun/00 with K

andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/00 with Pete Baillie

BRUCESTRAC - 2000 with Chris Cracknell,Various

graeme gatherer - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Climbed from Heather Ledge after climbing Kinloss Corner
Yourlead - AltLd - 08/Aug/99 with Raymond Simpson

Daniel Armitage - AltLd O/S - Aug/99 with Jonathan Robinson

BobbyMotherwell - Lead O/S - Jul/99 with Ken Harris, Eric Horne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Jamie B - AltLd - May/97 with Pete Morgan

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - Aug/96 with Ian Gardiner

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - Jul/96 with Ian Gardiner

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/95

keith hal - 2nd - 1995 with George McEwan

stokienomad - 1994

Hidden - Solo - 23/May/93

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/91

Andy Say - Solo - 28/Aug/90

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

graham lawrie - Lead - 1990

Can't remember if we bailed from Heather Ledge or finished the route
Yourlead - Lead - Jul/88 with Ric Gregory

Raggar - 1988 with roge, Jon B

rogerskews - 03/Jun/86 with Nigel Bond

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/85

Nigel Bond - Lead - 25/May/85 with Roger Skews

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/83

Lord of Starkness - Lead - Aug/83 with D Cameron

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1982 with Alastair Conkie

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/81

Winter conditions wiped out so did this as wet rock climb, very mild.
David Smith - Lead - 19/Feb/80 with George Wilson

arduff - AltLd - 1980 with EUMC pals

auldscotal - Lead O/S - 1977 with Mark Plenderlieth/Paul Murton/Ben Cooper?

Hidden - Lead - 1970

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Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard HS0 of 35
HS0 of 35
easy HS0 of 35
hard S0 of 35
S9 of 35
easy S22 of 35
hard HVD3 of 35
HVD1 of 35
easy HVD0 of 35
3 Stars8 of 38
2 Stars27 of 38
1 Star2 of 38
0 Stars1 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 210 (2.4%)
Lead39 of 210 (18.6%)
Followed20 of 210 (9.5%)
Alt Leads115 of 210 (54.8%)
Unknown31 of 210 (14.8%)

'Climbed'121 of 210 (57.6%)
clean O/S81 of 210 (38.6%)
clean rpt1 of 210 (0.5%)
clean RP1 of 210 (0.5%)
dnf6 of 210 (2.9%)