Stalactite Direct* HVS 5a
[John on Stalactite direct, 3 kb]15m.

Rockfax Description
A short but useful filler-in. Start below a corner with a block in it above the horizontal break. Climb the wall past the horizontal breaks to the block and finish up the short corner above. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Pigs Ear on the vertical flowstone wall beneath the finishing fist crack of Stalactite. Climb on large spaced holds passing good but technical natural protection to the niche below the steep finishing crack on Stalactite. Finish up Stalactite or step up and left into a steep groove for a move or two of 5a. Belay off the tree.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: John on Stalactite direct © Master Chief
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 124 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

something to do on cold drizzly day
lem - TR O/S - 28/Mar/15 with Filthy Cock

MattSkipper - TR O/S - 06/Dec/14 with Matt Coleman

ManxClimber - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/14

LDJ - Lead - 12/Sep/14 with Lou

Hidden - TR O/S - 01/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/14

Nice climbing at the start, not really matched by the second half.
R2B - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Charlotte

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Copped out at first horizontal break after placing bomber wire, pumped from finding and placing gear prior to this... Shunted clean afterwards, next time!
OllieF - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/14 with mpcfowle

burto - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with rowena, hertha

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/May/14

I agree with new guide this is HVS.
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

Shunted. Definitely on the list to lead, awkward top out I found.
OllieF - TR O/S - 15/May/14

Horrible top out
Lee_Meaden - Lead O/S - 14/May/14

Don't think I would place as many (2) microwires on a vs to be fair!
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Ian Pegg

Enjoyed, but interrupted by heavy rain
Robin Brooke - Lead - May/14 with Paula Ryan

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/14

Hidden - TR rpt - 14/Apr/14

mark schramm - Lead - 09/Apr/14

Lovely climb - delicate in places
DCIGadget - 2nd β - 09/Apr/14 with Dr Fox, Mark Schramm

No surprises.
Neil Rigiani - TR O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Harry Pearce

Is this not HVS in the guide?
Sean Kelly - 09/Apr/14 with Harry Pearce

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

nice little climb
roryferris - Lead β - 2014 with emily

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Jimbo

LH finish, good route, good gear.
Justin T - Lead - 28/Aug/13 with Nancy

guy757 - 21/Aug/13 with John Frost

Awkward left hand finish. I'd take HVS 5a.
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Tammy

metal arms - 2nd - 27/May/13

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Mike Irving

stephen ashworth - Lead - 06/Apr/13 with caroline blackmore

ian d f - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Pete H

Grabtheslab - Mar/13

Grabtheslab - 2013

jacobjohncharles - Lead O/S - 2013

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

MBano - TR - 16/Sep/12

timorme - TR dog - Sep/12 with Alex Frosty

RossT - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with Tim Howell

Pretty good route I just wish the tufa climbing was a bit more continuous as that bit was good, a little spoilt by the top in my opinion.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with The Likely Lads

left groove finishes on grass and slopers, had to down-climb and finish direct.
AlexD - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Ed

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with AlexD

Lyndsay Superclimber - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Mark S

mark schramm - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Lyndsay

Alex Steele - Lead - 20/May/12 with Doug miller

Pulled off a flake and decked out. Doesn't affect the climb as Alex showed afterwards.
SteveoS - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with Alex Steele

Brilliant climb!
Shynnagh - TR O/S - 18/May/12

Doug miller - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with chris wildblood

beautiful climb!!
cwildblood - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12 with doug miller

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

AJH - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Rob

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

MBano - TR O/S - 06/Apr/12 with philgriffiths

philgriffiths - TR - 06/Apr/12 with Matt Bano

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/12

Chaman - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/12 with David Llewellyn

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Dan Haberson-Butcher

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/12

martin clarke - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with nick andrews

dparsons - Lead O/S - 2012

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/11

Really nice climbing, even if the top section was running with water, the middle section fairly overrun with beasties and cobwebs and the start requiring some bramble bashing. Abseiled back down to retrieve gear since Rik was only on belay duty due to a dodgy ankle.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Rik

Big Rik - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Karl Gregory

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/11 with Dave L, tom m

tommoulds - 2nd - 22/Oct/11 with Schramm

Gear was a little thin/fiddly and had to do a bit of gardening to clean a jug, but some worthwhile climbing.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave

stephen ashworth - Lead - 16/Sep/11 with floss_81

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Chaman

Chaman - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Mark Schramm

mark schramm - 2nd - 01/Aug/11 with chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11

Luke90 - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/11

Master Chief - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with John

Hard VS 4c but no more... a good quickie!
Spearos - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Master Chief

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Kirsty Kerr

davenev - 20/Apr/11 with luke

VS feels the correct grade
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with davenev

Given HVS in the New West Country guide.But VS is a fair grade.
Popkids - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Nolan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11

nickdonohue - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Chawn ?

francois - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/11 with Chris

Solid lead by Chris, slightly fiddly gear at the start.
francois - 2nd - 08/Mar/11 with Chris

Fun little route with very little polish and some interesting flow-stone at the start.
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Francois

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Eleri

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Good climbing. Needs traffic on top section. Went up big crack on the right. LH was wet.
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/11

First trad fall, no stars, HVS 5a in rock fax
dale1968 - Lead dog - 25/Feb/11 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/11

berry - 2nd - 27/Jan/11 with Kafoozalem

dmaldonado - TR O/S - 11/Dec/10 with Nick Blackbeard

nblackbeard - TR O/S - 11/Dec/10 with Dan Maldonado

Hidden - TR - 17/Oct/10

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Mick Ward

Frostie - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/10

Eike - TR - 09/Sep/10 with Chawn Harlow

Some sort of variation of this, dont thin exactly this but something similar
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/10

Jimma - TR O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/10

Matt02003 - TR O/S - Apr/10 with James

tskelhon - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with John_Warner

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/09

Jack_F - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Total votes cast 83
hard E10 of 29
E10 of 29
easy E10 of 29
hard HVS0 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS22 of 29
hard VS6 of 29
VS1 of 29
easy VS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a12 of 29
hard 4c17 of 29
4c0 of 29
easy 4c0 of 29
3 Stars0 of 25
2 Stars7 of 25
1 Star12 of 25
0 Stars6 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat