Rockfax Description
The biggest arete on the island is a wonderful climb in an eye-catching situation. Start up cracks, then climb the right wall of the arete to some technical moves above a hand ledge to gain the arete itself. Climb to a ledge, then the final section above to a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. J.Robertson, Mark Courtier 1993

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Natalie's Challenges, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ICAS Climbing Club, Orange Spot Portland, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, ULMC Classics.

FlavioL1989 22/Nov Lead O/S
R2B 18/Oct Lead O/S
with Craigo
crag_whitelamb 18/Oct 2nd
with R2B
bvilsue 11/Oct Lead
with Rebeca
s1362083 26/Sep TR dog
Hidden 26/Sep Lead dog
Steve27 06/Sep Lead
tom_lewis89 04/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Nick Sherring 30/Aug Lead O/S

great position, a bit run out but no hard moves really. Made a good change from face climbing

psborland 30/Aug Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 30/Aug Lead
Phil Murray 28/Aug Lead β

GLad to get the "flash" 10 years after last doing it with 1 point of aid & 1 rest. Fab!!!!!!!!!

with Steve Wright
Hidden 04/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug 2nd dog
hervenuttall ?/Aug Lead O/S


with Doug
tash 25/Jul Lead dog

Was supposed to be a quick easy tick but had a mare! Felt dirty and not sure if I was climbing the right bits... great views not 3* climbing IMO!

with ali k
Hidden 11/Jul Lead rpt
AlexBush 11/Jul Lead dnf

Rope got stuck after coming round arete. Had to bail. Use a long sling on the bolt before arete next time.

with Carl S T
Gloria 04/Jul Lead

Special again

BarnDawg 04/Jul Lead

breathtaking situation, just beautiful

sam_craddock 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Phil Belcher
mossrug 21/Jun Lead O/S


with Rob
RichyBOYY 19/Jun Lead O/S
with Ben M
Raisinbake 19/Jun Lead dog
Benzo 19/Jun 2nd O/S
with Ric
GeneralFifi 15/Jun Lead O/S

Great exposure, awesome views. No moves are hard, it's just long..

evans859 15/Jun Lead rpt

Retro flash - climbed it last year aswell.

John_Beesley 15/Jun Lead O/S

Scary run-out between bolts. Ended up clipping round side to avoid big whipper, made the climb quite a drag (excuse the pun). Wonder if one of the bolts is hard to spot? Still onsighted though, so no worries!

Gloria 13/Jun Lead β

second lead in 12 months on this beauty

with Kirsten
Hidden 13/Jun Lead β
Edward Kwong 13/Jun Lead O/S

Gorgeous climb, well worthy of its star rating. About a third of the way up you'll lose sight/sound of your belayer. Then it's just you, the sharp grippy arete, and the sea :)

JoshT 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Jack Peate
samparsons 30/May Lead O/S
with Emmie
professorcobra 02/May Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr Lead dog
JUSTADUDE 22/Apr Lead rpt
with Shane
JUSTADUDE 22/Apr 2nd rpt

Done a second time for an abseil finish to the day =]

with Shane
torsok 18/Apr Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 11/Apr 2nd β
adi bryant 04/Apr Lead O/S
emwarren 04/Apr TR
lukerathmell ?/Apr Lead
with Dom
chakrit 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 16/Mar Lead O/S
jrccrosby 15/Mar Lead β
Theeni 15/Mar Lead
with Joseph
garywong 08/Mar Lead dog
with Nick
Stanners 07/Mar Lead O/S

sensational position on the arete. Found it very technical and balancey though. Maybe I read it wrong and had poor body positioning as it felt more F6b! None the less, great fun. Psyched again.

with Andy G
mariannekhoo 07/Mar Lead O/S

Brilliant route (everyone should try it!), but the bolts are set so deep it's all too easy to climb past them! Had to downclimb a few times to clip the bolts (Nick just thought I was being bold)

with Nick Pike
Rgswarren ?/Mar Lead O/S
poeter210 15/Feb Lead RP

lobbed from top first go

druss 15/Feb Lead dog

Got hands and feet all wrong on the technical crux. Came off a couple of times sorting it out.

druss 15/Feb Lead dog

Second attempt and got foot wrong and lost balance and ended up on the rope. A lot easier second time round when you know what to do.

brian watson 14/Feb Lead rpt
with Sophie Nunn, anne marie sheppard
Sophie Nunn 14/Feb Lead rpt
with annmarie, Brian
Hidden 05/Feb Lead RP
Hidden 05/Feb Lead rpt
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead O/S

First ever outdoor lead,shitting myself but lovely climbing,ace route

jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good fun! The team before us left the crag, leaving behind their rock shoes. Get in touch and I will post them to you.

with Sophie
dobby 200 27/Oct/14 Lead dog

After finding a very big loose flake half way up, I used the quickdraw to pass it. All the loose rock has been removed. Im pretty sure this was the hand ledge from the description. I dont know if this has affected the grade

Gem Minihan 28/Sep/14 Lead RP

Forced to come down to have knee fixed, losing the onsight :(

Gloria 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful climb, but where was the crux?

with Lorène
JackMac 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Dave
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
rustyfishhook 02/Sep/14 TR dog
Luke Owens 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great positions and exposure on the arete, pure quality.

robbo99 16/Aug/14 Lead β

mistakenly finished on the adjacent anchor for 6b+ Paws for Thought. Great climb and worth revisiting

Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
sideshow84 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Went a bit off route and found it tricky in parts. There's a big loose flake that needs to be treated with care!

Jeromecooper 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with matt king
Sdentzel 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Awesome climb!!! Must do! The crux face section gets you thinking.

with Beau
royle883 19/Jun/14 Lead dog
JUSTADUDE 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

This route just feels nice to climb =]

shane4747 18/Jun/14 Lead dog
evans859 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ella7 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S

what an amazing route!!

peaterpan 08/Jun/14 Lead RP

One of the most awesome lines I have done. Fell a few times working out the crux, but pulled the ropes and completed it on the second attempts. So cool sitting at the top!

skippington 25/May/14 Lead O/S
ClemB 25/May/14 Lead dog
Albachoss 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Andrea
TimKnight 18/May/14 Lead dog
with Dave Marshall, Owen Daniel
martin one 17/May/14 TR rpt
with Markus
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Lewis201 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Lorène 04/May/14 Lead O/S
dom94 15/Apr/14 Lead rpt
richy85 14/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Paul
Paul Eckton 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
E30Adam 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Cook
BenL 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Corbey
E30Adam 08/Mar/14 TR O/S
with Roberto Isasa, Miles Gillespie
neitsroth ?/Feb/14 Lead O/S
maybe_si ??/2014 Lead O/S
louby 23/Nov/13 Lead dog

think i had a rest?

Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead rpt
anthonyjc 16/Nov/13 Lead β
Helen Gibson 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

didn't think rock fall has effected route or grade. The arête is where it's at!

with Sam
magsb 04/Oct/13 2nd
with John Roberts
dom94 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Huguet
CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 Lead

crux is harder since recent rockfall. Now not soft in grade

with Rob
Rafal Malczyk 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
armand_dude ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Henry.Todman ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ConstaBern 26/Jul/13 TR
skunky456 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ronan72 15/Jul/13 Lead RP
cathymiller 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Carodashes 11/Jul/13 TR
max_dickens 11/Jul/13 Lead dog

stepped on a bolt near the top

Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
Alex Norman 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S

fantastic route, stunning position!

jwpil 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
Jay-Ast 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Jack93 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I pulled a flake at the back of the rock scar out where the big flake used to be so you have no choice but to use the arete now. I was climbing with someone who's done it before and he reckoned it made it harder now

spidermonkey09 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Harder now the big flake has gone.

Graham Booth 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 27/May/13 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 27/May/13 Lead RP
with Kamil
artmal 27/May/13 Lead rpt
JackMac 26/May/13 Lead RP
Rowena Clare 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Airy ! gives you a great exposed feeling for a 6a

timmyhobby 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 25/May/13 Lead dog

Missing the flake, nice climb but beyond me on the day. (Completed but not clean)

gonggashan 18/May/13 2nd O/S
BrionyMartin 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb!

with Richy
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Stunning position! Climbs nicely too. I don't know where the recent rockfall was but it didn't seem to affect the climb

with Emily
DorsetGareth 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

A refreshing change.

tsyrett 01/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Curly Rich 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
Ed morris 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S

The small flake is very loose, needs a crowbar job.

with Ian
Hidden ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Ianhansen ??/2013 -
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Jobbo 10/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead dnf
LukeyG 07/Oct/12 Lead

Be very careful, a huge flake has come off leaving a ton of dirt over all the hold plus another smaller flake which moves about

Justin T 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JuneBob 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
JackMac 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with Andy H
JackMac 29/Sep/12 2nd dog

Great climb!

with Andy H
andy south devon 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
98%monkey 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Lewis Wilson, Nicki
Mistee 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Lewis Wilson, Phil
tradguy 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mark Hazell, philippa wiffen
ranga 26/Aug/12 Lead
GPN 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 30/Jul/12 Lead β

Had backed off 3 years ago. Scary!

popov86 28/Jul/12 -
Julesthe1st 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
mop449 17/Jul/12 TR β
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

amazing route for the grade. best 6a+ ever.

with Mo, John Salmon
jpksalmon 15/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Clear and sunny. Got halfway up.

with Matt Rust
Hidden 08/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead dog
Adamwillclimb 04/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Daniel
Hidden 01/Jul/12 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Daniel 01/Jul/12 2nd rpt

beautiful, long (for Portland) and nicely exposed arrete

with Jasmina Saric
Matt77 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo ?/Jul/12 Lead

Great route, good climbing and amazing positions, soft in the grade.

with Rob
TomLanc ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
misterb 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S


with nick
Chris Sansum 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Probably the best route I've ever done at Portland. Great climbing in an amazing position.

with James Pilgrim
chris wyatt 16/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Done in a gale making the arrete rather interesting

with rich
spidermonkey09 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Incredible climb that never seems to end. Easier than Reptile Smile but much longer and more exposed.

Chris Redding 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Well worth the years wait to onsight. Incresdible climb that just never seems to stop. Quite exposed and just epic in general :)

DJ Nelson 04/Jun/12 Lead β
with Paul Jackson
colkurtz 28/May/12 Lead
with Karin
Sami Mandeel 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Mike Davies
philhaigh 22/May/12 Lead O/S
virgil 20/May/12 Lead


with james, dylan
therat 20/May/12 Lead O/S
lukerathmell 20/May/12 Lead
with Rachel Bennett
Jonathan Emett 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Oli 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Fergus
Radical-G 19/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 12/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 TR dog
oodie72 04/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Evan, Alan Mountford
hotfeet 04/May/12 -
with Iain Gray
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
GilesV 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Skrapes
efrance24234 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Fabulous route. Very easy compared to all the other (sandbag?) 6a+ routes I did this week

with Paul Evans
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 TR
gibsond 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Great route

Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Perryman 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
surfer38 26/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Good project and a great climb, will try again next time

rd20 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Martin
martin one 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jeremy, Tim
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matty g 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

So pleased to get this route. Wanted to climb in for ages and it didn't disappoint! Great climbing with rich and a super sunny day to boot!

Nathanie1 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Perfect weather, gorgeous scenery and a stunning climb. I highly recommend it. had 11 quick draws and ran out 1 bolt from the top, however I was feeling fearless at that point. Probably a little too clipper happy on the first stretch to the ledge (I think I used 5). Also, we managed it with a 50m rope but literally had an inch left when I got to the floor, so not recommended.

with Good Looking Will
thetradlad 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Sadaat, Jake Lodge
Gambit 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Aban ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
matt perks ??/2012 -
PauI360 ??/2012 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
Duncan Turner 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

60 metre rope advisable... 50 m only just covers it!

with stu
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Izzy Brinsden 02/Nov/11 2nd
with Eddie Church, Jim McPetrie
KarolinaKlos 29/Oct/11 Lead rpt
lukerathmell 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ali Macphee
ali macphee 24/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Danny Crump 23/Oct/11 Lead
mlg678 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

good but not 3 stars for me

Oliver Sherman 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S


with Deniz Sumengen
scottski 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S

brilliant route

with A. Baguley
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
SMc 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Andy G
andybirtwistle 24/Sep/11 Lead

Stunning arete worth every star :)

PowerPigtails 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd β
UnkArl 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route, just keeps going and going but with some good rest ledges. Don't veer too far from the arete! The approach up from Diamond Slabs was very sketchy!

with Rich Russon, Claire, Stefano
flatcap 17/Aug/11 Lead dog

Wow, what a climb. A very exposed climb (not for the faint-hearted), and at 26m (not for the weak). Warm, sunny, still day. Just perfect. Had it been windy my nerves wouldn't have held out. Two rests (plus the two ledges) and a lot of leg wobbling. Finally made it to the top.

with Karl
dmaldonado 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Sam Jones
tom.ireson 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Just a brilliant route!

with Paul Ackland
leowestland ?/Aug/11 Lead
Kopinski 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
embob 30/Jul/11 Lead

One of the best sport routes I've done. Brilliant flowing moves, great exposure. EA.

with Alex
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Carnie Lisa 28/Jul/11 2nd RP


Lloyders 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
kingborris 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
James Moyle 14/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Bottled the moves to the last bolt. I'm such a wuss!

Gareth Bowen 14/Jul/11 Lead β
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Stunning climb, can't think of a single thing I'd change

Didymus 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Marcus
dh4096 ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with simon, ben
Dandan82 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
RachaelB 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Justin de Deney
ian-rad 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, really enjoyed using the sharp arete, felt like quite a journey by the time i'd finished it, definately worth 3 stars

plilley 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Rao
benscarter 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Simon Forman
TRFrost 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
np134 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Hines
Jack R-N 04/Jun/11 Lead β

Best 6A+ i have ever done by far

Sophie Nunn 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
Ben Harper 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Soph Nunn
fildac ?/May/11 Lead O/S
MarkyMark_7 ?/May/11 Lead dnf
Lyndsay Superclimber 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

1st 6a+ onsite..yey!

Jonathan Emett 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
Wil.Hooke 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Olly
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
Jonathan Emett 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with jimbo
el_Claudio 09/Apr/11 TR dog
Mike Green 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
KarolinaKlos 03/Apr/11 TR dnf

stuck on the most difficult part of the climb.

wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Carlos, Nat
tradguy 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
Abi Chard 15/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S


with Dan Hancock
Danhan 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
drysori 22/Jan/11 Lead

Jes flashed this on second.

Hidden 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 TR O/S
james.pilbeam ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
clukins 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Climbed the right side of the arete before moving round onto its other side briefly near the top.

Hidden 28/Oct/10 Lead O/S
wi11 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Gee
lewiz 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S


dmaldonado 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 10/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Sue, Andy
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

alzheimer's onsight

with simon
ElBarto 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Daithí O'hAngluinn
benscarter 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Best route yet for me. Phenomenal sense of exposure and exitement on stepping out to the long, sharp arete. Loved every second.

with Simon Forman
DrGav 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Dave
DafSWMC 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nik G, Alys
Claire S-J 15/Sep/10 2nd O/S

nice view!

Hidden 14/Sep/10 Lead rpt
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
dashitboarder 11/Aug/10 Lead dog

Too pumped had to rest twice..

with Jess
mikeconway 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 01/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Very dusty and not very confidence inspiring. Ended up getting tired and backing off

mutt 01/Aug/10 Lead

excellent and varied

with adam devine
mutt 01/Aug/10 Lead

excellent and varied

with adam devine
Daniel ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 18/Jul/10 Lead β
with Ian Cooper, Will Benfold
will_benfold 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ian C, Cameron
James Mitchelmore 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Kap 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
givemetea 04/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Vince
bastian 03/Jul/10 Lead
bercolano 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Superfocus.. loved the height and exposure

Luke Dawson ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Alaina 21/Jun/10 Lead

Brilliant route. Although the bolts on the left face of the arete caused a mess as it's not clear if they're they route or not..

with Josh Daymond
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dog
lottiec 13/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Singleton_Alex 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Amazing line, finished off a perfect week!

with Alice Rutter
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
steve taylor 30/May/10 -
with Steve Williams
John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Ztephan 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing, and spectacular exposure for an easy sportsroute.

Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
AsleepOnBelay 14/May/10 Lead O/S

Just brilliant. Last route of our trip, and an amazing send off. 26 metres of solid, steady 6a climbing all the way, with some really nice arete moves. Sat at the lower off I felt like a falcon in an eyrie, watching the sun on the water and listening to the soft crash of waves on the boulders. Awesome.

with Sarah Davis
Bulls Crack ?/May/10 Lead O/S

Long approach? Bless! Good route - feels more like E1!

with Ian C
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Bob 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with G. Macauley
eroica64 17/Apr/10 TR

Pulled block off arete where right-hand crack occurs. Magnificent climb and line.

with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead
nacnud 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead
Jack_F 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead β
tomsmartacus 07/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Ollie Lister
The Ivanator 04/Apr/10 TR

Atmospheric, nice positions, steady climbing.

IAmAStone ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Ramsden
robandian ?/Apr/10 2nd
g1m147 23/Mar/10 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
SuseH 14/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Iain
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Gareth 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
clipskipper 13/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Sue Hazel
Harphead 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Spicerman
TomBailey 30/Jan/10 2nd β

My first Sports Second

Uthikoloshe ??/2010 -
mark_wellin ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 TR dog
Matt Smith 11/Nov/09 TR dog

One of the best sport routes I have ever done

nickevens 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with stuart grieves
Hidden 11/Nov/09 2nd dog
green_bhind_da_ears 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Mowglee 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Amazing. Stunning line, exposure, wish it kept on going for longer. Had the whole of blacknor and battleship to ourselves, tops-off weather in mid October

with Jonathan Emett
Mowglee 08/Oct/09 Lead rpt

To get the clips back. Just as good second go.

with Jonathan Emett
KDhruev 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
michael burrows 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Lallylandslider 15/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
matthewjames 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Ghee
TonyB 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anni
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead RP
mjeffery 14/Jul/09 Lead
thomb 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jo
garburn 15/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Phil79 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route.

with Pete & Henry
andy dunn 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Awesome Route - done in the afternoon shade. Enjoyed the variety of climbing on offer from a big juggy start, through to more technical balancy stuff, laybacks on the flake (right next to the arete) and some arete climbing with a mantle to finish

with Alan
Max2559 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Stunning climb with nice exposure.

with Rod Burden
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ali.B ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
tigertim 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Polly Withers
Hidden 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
chris j 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Josh
Hidden 04/Apr/09 TR β
jbulger 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead RP
LiLaMont 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead RP
tobydunford 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
LC ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22/Feb/09 Lead dog
with John Morgan
sam_cox 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
eugeneth 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Seb
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead O/S

amazing climbing, especially pulling onto the arete for the first time with air beneath the feet

adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
candicegallab ??/2009 2nd
jominator ??/2009 Lead O/S
rubben ??/2009 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll ??/2009 Lead RP
with Claire
vertigo 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/08 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 18/Oct/08 TR
with Neil H
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Matt Taylerson
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
leigh 27/Sep/08 Lead dog

Disappointed to have needed a rest but what a fantastic climb.

with Ed
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead RP
al99 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
martinazando 23/Aug/08 TR

Lovely climb!

FrostyWebb 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

An amazing arete climb, scary at the mid section but extremly fun however exposed top section. One word for this climb would be WINDY

with Hannes
MarkRyder 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
danfitz ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Steerpike 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Bungle
jl 11/May/08 Lead rpt
with Penny
pennyb 11/May/08 TR O/S
with Jon
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
98%monkey 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Excellent climb, glad I nailed it 1st time. Saw a gull gliding the thermals 2 or 3 metres away from me when I was admiring the view at the top - MAGIC !!

with Katerina
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/08 Lead
with Andras Pinter
feilx 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
nicktr ??/2008 -
Kevster ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Ducks Rock ??/2008 Lead dog
Spacetourist ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
tobydunford 10/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
gfoster 20/Oct/07 Lead

One rest just below second ledge (one clip to go) Very frustrating but was last climb of a long and pumpy day... next time!

AlexD 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
MontyH 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S

what a great route with plenty of atmosphere, one of the best sport routes I have climbed.

with Paul Milton
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
Merlin 09/Sep/07 TR O/S
with Alex Elliot
richardr ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
gfoster ?/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/07 TR
just one more 28/Jul/07 Lead
with jason, tim b, john smith
david morse 21/Jul/07 Lead
with rampant and general
nblackbeard ?/Jul/07 Lead
general 18/Jun/07 2nd
with Rampant
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Danos 05/May/07 Lead
with Paul
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/07 Lead rpt
jw231 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/07 TR dnf
Matt Shepherd 20/Mar/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 20/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Richy
Hidden 20/Feb/07 TR dog
Paz 14/Jan/07 Lead β
with TS
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Julia Chatterton 07/Oct/06 2nd
with Will
tobydunford 07/Oct/06 Lead dog

Frustrated about the dogged ascent, but what a climb, simply wonderful, what a position. Next time now i know just to go for it, ill get it clean.

Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
JPGR 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
bigie bob 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Siderunner 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Best bolted route I've ever done. Almost as good as trad climbing :-)

with Jill
Bry ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Tom Brittain
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 18/Jul/06 Lead O/S

first route of portland not bad, well sustained and stuff.

Alex Been ?/Jul/06 Lead β
Dorset ?/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jun/06 2nd
chris j 19/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Nick Strange
Somerset swede basher 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve Elliff
dycotiles ?/Jun/06 Lead RP
with Patrik
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
beanfingers 28/May/06 Lead O/S

best arete climb i've ever done. ali got it clean on second

with ali
EG 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Kristy
Wilbur 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Morgan
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead β
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Abi Marchent
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
theloringharvey ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Jon Partridge
dan gibson ??/2006 Lead O/S
lukea 27/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Olaf
Morgan Woods ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S


with Stef
Owen W-G 20/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dan & Leo
jl 25/Jul/05 Lead dog
with Rachel
ASchwirtz 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Superb arete climbing!

with Shona D'arcy
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Dec/04 2nd dnf
Nigel Coe 28/Aug/04 2nd
with Simon Wyvill, Brian Wyvill
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
migs493 07/Aug/01 Lead O/S

Outstanding route - probably the best route of this grade on Portland.

Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
adriandesouza ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/1998 -
Simon cook ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 09/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Matt Vigg
kristian ??/1995 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1994 -

Approx date

MoWalker3 30/Oct/93 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, s1362083, Mouse Matt, AshleyLong, charlielow, James Yearsley, Ed Houghton, Hidden, Nesa, Hidden, Hidden, George Killaspy, professorcobra, Zane_18, Rich2002, jjb71uk, neitsroth, Hidden, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, Mike W, torsok, Hidden, rhino_bill, bsparky, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, dawesbub, Pughymonster, iksander, Hidden, toogreytogrind, richardw87, Rassapotimus, Hidden, Hidden, kateg2009, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, GilesD, kirsten, joshchalke, jameswhitty, JamesRich, reece.robinson, Adam_42, Graham C, Boogs, Hidden, Jeremy Crampin, Danh89, Hidden, JIMJIM, Tom_Harding, Emma-Louise Anderson, jackappleby, Ash85, Andreas.Klaedtke, Hidden, Hidden, lottiec, jez_springall, fleapitfan, ahaynes, stuntsbyjon, syv_k, clairepoppett, gidmord, Dan Lane, The Mountain Goat, Ezy Ryder, SC, poey50, flatcap, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, Warren Earle, groovy_nut, balmybaldwin, beegsyboy, Debs1, fivestar, PhilWragg, Hidden, Hidden, davewing, Hidden
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 152
Votes cast 151
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set