19m.

Rockfax Description
A steady little face-climb that heads right from Doughnuts and Duvets and then up the wall to the first roof and break. © Rockfax

FA. A. Jende 13/Mar/1993


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 14/May 2nd dog
s.thursz 30/Apr Lead
Horton 09/Apr TR β
Hidden 02/Apr Lead O/S
dohart 28/Oct/15 Lead dog

Another last route of the day - should have done really -as its pretty straight forward AND you can stand on a ledge to work out the move (1 out of 10 for effort). Really good route though.

with darren
bvilsue 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rebeca
wyzfen 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dana
Paul Baxter 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
danusiatycia 26/Sep/15 TR
Julesthe1st 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Pilar
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
DanielGyi 04/Jul/15 Lead
LaraKate224 04/Jul/15 -
chris85 ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with alan
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth White
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Brian
brian watson 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
lewiz 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
AJ007 09/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
knighty 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Wicked moves. Quite delicate. Very fun.

SuperLee1985 07/Dec/14 2nd
with knighty
neveyj 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt

first 6a lead, top ropped first

Giles Davis 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
bobstones 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
Sophie Gibbens 24/Aug/14 2nd
richardashe 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Trannum
royle883 12/Aug/14 Lead dog

Found the section between the penultimate and last bolts a bit tricky, bled quite a lot. Fun climbing.

Ugly Kid Jo 09/Aug/14 2nd

Delicate face/slab route. I tried to lead it first but didn't make it.

with Chomp
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
BIgYeti86 04/Aug/14 Lead
rushy11111918 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Stephen Powell
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
sideshow84 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 26/Jul/14 TR
Martin Bagshaw 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Has a pretty tricky rockover for a 5+. I think this was harder than a lots of the 6a'a in the area

Matt77 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

5+ in my guidebook and tricky at that grade.

with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 13/Jul/14 -
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
emmafizzle 14/May/14 Lead rpt

had to downclimb a few times to get the trust with my feet near the top, overall a nice climb

Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/May/14 Lead
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
rd20 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Alex CC
petegruf 16/Mar/14 Lead
with Chris cc
Nick Clement ??/2014 Lead
with mandy clement
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead
wil_perry 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JayAsh 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with BZ
albt 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
philmcf ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Flippy ?/Jul/13 Lead
with Emma
Jack93 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quite airy at the top

Amy Hare 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead
LifeAboveTheBolt 18/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
patrickc 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
lewiz 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gocha Gamrot
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd RP
Ed morris 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

v pleasant end to a good day

with Ian
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 -
Peter Lovell 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
angie 29/Sep/12 TR
davemcummings 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First 6a lead outdoors. Brilliant climb.

bsparky 28/Sep/12 Lead dog
Helen Gibson 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

one tricky, balancy move..quite a nice warm-up.

with Paul
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR rpt
mattgrange 19/Aug/12 Lead β

Much easier than the last time I did it, when it was my first outdoor lead and scared me witless!

Dan_F 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

pretty cool route really enjoyed it..cant beleive its not worthy of stars tbh

Markmclimby 04/Aug/12 TR dnf

Managed to almost get to the ledge but my fingers missed a hold and that was that.. I thought best leave it and come back with a fresh head.

with Dan_F
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Good
Adamwillclimb 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
Jaime Mitchell 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
ellmang 26/May/12 Lead
SteveHC 20/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Paula Ryan ?/May/12 TR
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
RioVista23 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Solid climb with a trickier finish

nataliehaigh 12/Apr/12 Lead dog

Very challenging for me as I'm still very scared of leading. Got myself into two situations where I rested as I didn't know what to do, climbed up a little above the clip and then got scared and down climbed to the clip. After deliberation, I eventually pushed on. At the higher crux I encountered a blank wall (well blank for me) and eventually found a balancy position to clip from. Whilst clipping, I pulled the rope up but although I was high enough the drag in the rope and my tentative position meant that I had the rope loop 2cms below the clip for ages without being able to pull it higher without unseating myself. When I tried to pull it up and clip again I felt myself fall away. I was so scared as my worst fear is falling whilst clipping the next bolt! I'm ashamed to say that I grabbed the quick draw to stop me coming off and then clipped it. I was cross, but I would have been super scared if I'd actually fallen at this point. I took a rest after this and did the move again to prove to myself that I could do it. Overall pleased that I managed to push on through the scary above bolt bits of the climb even after taking a couple of small falls and getting scared. Lots to work on though!

DaveGarrity 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
mikehenesy 17/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Gambit 02/Mar/12 2nd
with Barney
Hidden 15/Jan/12 Lead β
ian d f 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 07/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Ian
angie ??/2012 -
robblowen 22/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Chris, Jules
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
pearson9596 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
tcn_2002 16/Oct/11 Lead
samparsons 08/Oct/11 Lead
gidmord 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead dnf
timreynolds 18/Sep/11 Lead
mikehenesy 18/Sep/11 2nd
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Percy
Duncan Turner 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
louby 14/Aug/11 Lead
chris_B 14/Aug/11 Lead
benparratt 05/Aug/11 Lead dog
laurence orchard 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with George Newham
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Grace
Greg Pittam 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stanbridge
airwalk123 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
willreddin 19/Jun/11 TR
Coops_13 29/May/11 Lead dog

fell after being too pumped at top

with Tom Sturgeon
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead
Dave Reeve 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Matt250 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jgustafsson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, did it twice.

with Jen
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
Danh89 21/Apr/11 Lead dog
with LukeyG
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Steve27 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead β
kleinej 27/Mar/11 TR
with Mark S, Robert
rd20 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Mark S, Jason
Mr Tickle 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tradguy 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
bluesharper 13/Mar/11 Lead β

pre-placed quickdraws

with Roger
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
tbs105 ??/2011 -
Matt250 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Ian Bell ??/2011 Lead O/S
phildavies84 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Craig
clukins 20/Nov/10 Lead β
Ed Babs 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Magnus
manwithacam 19/Sep/10 AltLd

dust rock but enjoyable climbing, sustained, thin and delicate. A bit stiff for the grade?

with Joris
Steve13 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 15/Sep/10 Lead
Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Braintax 11/Sep/10 Lead
jamespilgrim 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
tania 04/Sep/10 Lead β
with mike
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
najki_2000 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

a few sharp holds at the bottom section, thin moves in the upper half, but quite a nice climb

with Chris Rose
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead RP
mikeconway 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
clipskipper 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Thought it was a touch hard for 5+, glad it has been felt by everyone else! Nice route, fingery delicate finish.

with Dugald
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Gaffney 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Cooper
RachaelB 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely gorgeous - really loved the climb - fantastic slabby bit in the middle.

with Rob Battams
Ceridwen 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
toby2000 ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
fildac 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than a 5+ and apparently it is.

Hidden 25/May/10 TR dnf
Don Jebus 20/May/10 Lead O/S
ahaynes 13/May/10 Lead dog

Thought the last 2 bolts deserve a higher grade of 6a or slightly more. Next time.....

with Eddie Goodey
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Popkids 24/Apr/10 TR O/S
with david
Bob 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with G. Macauley
3 Names 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
g1m147 23/Mar/10 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ian JL 27/Feb/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/09 Lead dog
mark4344 30/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt Payne
sophie291188 ?/Sep/09 TR
Rob Laird 30/Aug/09 Lead dog

Surprisingly hard top section.

with B Sosin
mr random 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Could not do the very last move, the guide gives it 5+ def 6a.

sara n 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Karl Blanchet
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dog
jon bradley 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route, much harder at top

with Huw Howells
TonyB 03/Aug/09 Lead β

Completed after Anni had to lower off midway. Crux section onsight.

with Anni
JimR 12/Jul/09 -
RFWilkie 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Monk 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Julesthe1st 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Stana
keithpeck 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
BicepAndrews 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 20/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Fran, Chris Bailey, Riaz Shaik
philhaigh 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
jl 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Brad, Penny
Chris Harding 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Stevenson
The Mountain Goat 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
DeclanMurphy 04/May/09 Lead
with Melody
Whitto 02/May/09 Lead dog
andyfeds 12/Apr/09 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
AndyM-LVB 03/Apr/09 Lead RP

Great climb, very technical, but very hard for the grade. We both thought 6a+ at least.

with Nicolas Tardy
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Beck Holland 15/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
thompson1000 ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
jominator ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ceridwen ?/Dec/08 TR β
jacobjlloyd ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with John Scarrott
Tightsgirl ?/Oct/08 Lead
shoulders 28/Sep/08 Lead
with dai
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead dog
MarkRyder 26/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Rich
vertigo 26/Sep/08 Lead β
lemon 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Peter Brook
Joemanglerocks 22/Sep/08 Lead
with Ed Causton
FrostyWebb 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 05/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead β
Marq 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alan (Craggy)
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
djp1 09/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
chalk bunny ?/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Chris Warmington
steve taylor 25/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
flatcap 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A delicate climb. I really didn't feel to confident about this one. I had to take my time at the top.

with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 Lead

agree with the description, and other comments about the top. bottom rock a wee bit cheesy.

Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
existing debt 21/May/08 2nd
with Iain a
Julian Mowbray 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Richard
rd20 10/May/08 Lead dog

slight slip last section

with Roslyn
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with andy
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 Lead
98%monkey 26/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Katerina
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Oct/07 TR
Hidden 29/Sep/07 -
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/07 -
tobydunford 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Julie Carroll 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

lovely climb, especially top section . . . . . beautiful!

with Suzie, Carole Dawson
harryt 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Really nice absorbing route. Why no stars? Disagree with the comments about the grade - lots easier than the other 6as that I dogged (Meg's got Leukaemia etc) this weekend.

with Patrick
Hidden ?/Jun/07 -
Steerpike 19/May/07 Lead β
with Bruce
Brian Rodgers 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Louise Rodgers
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Darragh ?/Apr/07 -
Hidden 24/Mar/07 TR dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
clipskipper 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Ok up to the split with Doughnuts, then gets thin and very fingery. Sandbag with the true grade around 6a - bit of a shock and scary in places.

with armchair climbing
Hidden ?/Oct/06 2nd
vet 19/Aug/06 TR RP

NH leads but takes 6b route to finish, by mistake.

with Nick
Wilbur 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Awful downgrade - it's at least F6a...

with George
jimjimmyjimjim 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Abi Chard ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Peter Swift ??/2006 Lead dog
with paul
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
lukea 16/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with dan
michael burrows 05/Oct/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 29/May/05 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Haglington ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden 03/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 03/Sep/01 Lead β

This is quite simply not F5+. Used to get F6a+ in the 2000 Dorset Rockfax

with dean howard
AlexD 10/Sep/00 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

done several times

Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
brew_guru ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with chris williams/jon ratcliffe
tapley ?/Jun/98 2nd
with Simon Tapley
Hidden 14/May/98 Lead O/S
nai 06/Jul/97 Lead
with Rob Smitton
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 14/Jul/96 Lead O/S

The original 6a+ grade seemed the right grade for this climb. The crux is defo 5c

with Steve Lucas
chris sm 17/Feb/96 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/1996 -
rob.grafton 29/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead O/S

Was 6a+ because the whole wall stood a lot more upright in the 90's. It's slumped and as such was downgraded. Crux is still 6a+ territory but the rest isn't any more.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ??/1994 Lead

Approx date

MoWalker3 01/Jan/93 -
with Joe
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dantheoptimist, Rich153, shaws, Markmclimby, joshchalke, Hidden, dan23584, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 78
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set