Rockfax Description
A really good, long wall-pitch on fine rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a thrilling finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jun/1995

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

FlavioL1989 22/Nov Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 22/Nov Lead dnf
with Flavio
Graeme Hammond 18/Oct Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 25/Jul Lead
tash 25/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant long route, lots of variety.

with ali k
Hidden 11/Jul Lead rpt
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul Lead O/S
rachelvlc 28/Jun 2nd
Edward Kwong 28/Jun Lead β

Solid varied route. Crux in the sharp middle section. Be bold at the top, there are decent holds!

samparsons 25/Jun Lead O/S

Beautiful flowly climb.

mossrug 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 07/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun Lead rpt
jamesb101 05/Jun Lead O/S
with lucy
Hidden 05/Jun 2nd O/S
raymondlinklater 04/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May Lead O/S
David Staples 25/May Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 17/May Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
Alex the Alex 02/May Lead O/S

Even lenger! strayed on to the route to the right and had to traverse in before the bulge. bit thin...

with Mofire Crewdem
Hidden 27/Apr Lead rpt
David Staples 27/Apr TR
Ian Bell 25/Apr Lead O/S

Excellent route deserving of its stars. Good rests.

with Tania T
martin one 19/Apr 2nd O/S

1 rest required in one place

with Markus
Hidden 07/Apr Lead β
innes 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Ruth
chakrit 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Gary
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Mar Lead O/S
poeter210 08/Mar Lead O/S
with Peri
Hidden 17/Feb Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jan TR rpt
Carnie Lisa ??/2015 2nd β
penny.orr ??/2015 -
kingborris ??/2015 -
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Lorčne ?/Nov/14 Lead
Gem Minihan 23/Aug/14 TR dog

Peeled off at the chains :(

Luke Owens 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Flows so well! Classic.

elyben 19/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
lewiz 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S


Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Michael Aylen 25/May/14 Lead RP

1 redpoint

with Macca
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead O/S

considerably easier than burning skies!

with John
professorcobra 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Tomar 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Jay81 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tomar
TB30 20/Apr/14 Lead

First onsight of a 6b+ woop

philhaigh 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
GazzerM54 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt
ian caton 16/Mar/14 Lead β
with Abi
Abi Chard 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Ian
AlexD 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James Doc, Sarp
sarpedon 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt
BenL 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Sarp
sarpedon 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Last route of the day. Nice one, good length.

Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead β
Linc 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 23/Aug/13 TR O/S
just one more 29/Jul/13 Lead
with babs schempp
JackMac 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very nice route. All the holds are there - no obvious crux to me - I was just pumped by the end :)

philhaigh 19/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford, Shamina Kapadia
DDDD 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sham
adamjeffs 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dan_F 15/Jun/13 Lead RP

Flashed.!! Climbed this route 2 years ago on TR clean, but flashed it today... Awesome route even if it was 28mph winds.

with Ben jones
Ian Ash 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/May/13 Lead rpt
with alice thompson
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Graham Westbrook 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
el_monty 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Apr/13 2nd
Si27 30/Mar/13 TR O/S
with Dan
Joe Innes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Hmm... Possibly the strangest route name ever?!?

trev_f 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tsyrett ??/2013 2nd O/S
jonbwoy ??/2013 -
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??/2013 -
John Mcshea 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Jobbo 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
Rupey 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Barry
Hidden 07/Oct/12 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead β
ian caton 27/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Abi
philhaigh 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
MBarraclough 26/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012.

patrickc 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
pigeonslipper 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
metal arms 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S


catblack 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

felt quite steady, top not as hard as i was expecting, lots of ledges to rest on!

Andrew Barker 06/Apr/12 Lead β
Nathanie1 31/Mar/12 Lead dog

Took an unexpected whipper whilst faffing around on dubious holds. Until next time Lord Stublock...

Laurence Everitt 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 24/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Brian H 15/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
matt perks ??/2012 -
Kevster 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet, Toby
Toby Dunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

almost no redeeming features whatsoever

with Sophie Nunn
dswansonlow 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Barbour
dan gibson 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Sep/11 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
embob 30/Aug/11 Lead

Really really pleased with this, what a battle! Found the moves through the bulge very tough. Couldn't reach the knob and wasted loads of energy and skin. The sequence after felt tenuous. Then easy through the final groove, to the forearm destroying step up to the lower-off. > 1 hour on the route I reckon. EA.

with Alex
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Owen W-G 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Last and best route of day. Was still pumped before I set off so grateful for all the hands off rests.

with Jim
Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead dog

One fall at 2nd crux. Only 3 moves away from a decent rest! Not to be today I guess

Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
John Tanner 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Taylor, Joe Premier
ian-rad 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Another great 3 star climb, few people said the crux was the first scoop, found that relatively easy, my crux was moving up right after this. Hugely pumped by the anchor, desperate to find that good hold as your last clip seems a long way down :0)

plilley 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

Great route - just missed the onsite and took a lob from the top.... Too pumped to clip!

with Ian Rao
Jack R-N 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Far too hot to do this one. The sun drained all my energy so had nothing left to do the top. Definatly not a crag to come to on a hot day as there is no shade at all

Hidden 14/May/11 Lead
Pippa 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
Saurus 26/Mar/11 Lead RP

Brilliant route, two good sequency crux's but with good rests in-between. Don't run out of gas at the top though!

barfani chita 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Saurus
Alex More 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Howell
Abi Chard 15/Mar/11 Lead O/S
matthewjames 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Katie Keeley
Kopinski 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
Brian H 23/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 09/Jan/11 Lead
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead O/S
brices 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S

miles harder than burning skies burning skies is so much better 2

mlg678 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with simon
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/10 Lead rpt

practically onsight, I had forgotten it. btw it is memorable because it is good, not because it is hard!

with crispin
Joe Grondowski 05/Sep/10 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A great line, although it is longer than the book suggests. Oh it was very memorable.

with Yasmina
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Dandan82 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tucker
ursus77 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Not that sustained, more possibilities for rest. Now it is a second route from the big crack and follows left of the bush about 10m high

Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve H
givemetea 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Patrick
3 Names 15/May/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
feilx 17/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
hippo99 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with morgan
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 10/May/09 Lead dog
with Nic
Hidden 01/May/09 Lead O/S
chris j 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Josh
Jus 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Billg 14/Feb/09 2nd rpt
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead β
with billg
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Ducks Rock ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Felix
schof 06/Dec/08 -
with mike hawkins
Paz 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with MK
tobydunford 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
BenNorman ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S


with kev norman
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 12/Sep/08 Lead dog

one fall. emotionally drained at the end!

with Matic
Matt Bennett 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with David S
Steerpike 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
jw231 27/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Tom Grant
dannyboy83 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2008 -
just one more 28/Jul/07 Lead
with jason, tim b, john smith
Rob Kennard 24/Jul/07 -
with Jon Howell
Dan_Carroll 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
just one more 21/Sep/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
John Southworth 05/May/01 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Apr/98 2nd
with Jason Lloyd
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mrduk, Hidden, Gloria, James Yearsley, Hidden, George Killaspy, Zane_18, Rich2002, neitsroth, Hidden, mop449, Hidden, Rassapotimus, kateg2009, Hidden, Hidden, Jeremy Crampin, RFWilkie, jon_ridley, flashpanther, Siderunner, Aeneas, Emma-Louise Anderson, Hidden, SuseH, poey50, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set