Rockfax Description
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade. © Rockfax

FA. H.Venables. FFA. Steve Taylor 3.10.93 15/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

LJC 28/May -
vickydavies 28/May Lead RP
with Helen Gardiner
Hidden 15/May -
HannahT 12/May TR dog


with Abi, Martin
professorcobra 08/May Lead RP
GrahamGiles 08/May Lead RP

Not the best route for a pulley injury... Very technical boulder problem in between good climbing

with Kim Lukas, Joanne
Giles Davis 01/May Lead dog
Hidden 01/May Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May Lead β
mop449 30/Apr Lead O/S

First pure 7a onsight

with Sam Clark
La Mont 30/Apr Lead rpt
with Will
RadekNowak 10/Apr Lead RP
artmal 10/Apr Lead RP
jacob shieldhouse hadley 20/Mar Lead O/S

bolts not spaced, amazing crozzly pocket climbing, bit snappy, 3 stars imo

with mum
TonyB 29/Dec/15 Lead RP

2nd go today. Had tried with Anni and Claudia 6 months earlier.

with Anni
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Nearly onsighted the bastard, but went up wrong handed towards the top. 2nd go and first clean 7a (though easy for the grade).

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
tommccluskey 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Jess
Gloria 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Clean until final clip. Many attempts at the two finger ledge crux on my first 7a lead

with Bekah Ryder, Tim Beeston
Nick Sherring 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Ok up to the crux section, but small crimps were way to greasy in the humid conditions. Would be better in dry conditions.

katiep 26/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got stuck at the crux - couldn't figure out how to use such tiny crimps!

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
Sam4242 18/Jul/15 Lead G/U
marcduhig 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Tops nails.

Robheirene 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very nice climbing. Bolts didn't seem too spaced in response to previous comments, especially not compared with some of the other routes on the island.

clarekissane ?/Jul/15 Lead

too short for one move!!

Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf
SDM 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with Michael
TonyB 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Went for the onsight and fell off between the last bolt and chain. Didn't go for the RP as too sharp!

with Anni
ArrMcC 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Toooo hot to climb hard. Nice route and cool moves. If slightly spaced bolts. How hard is it to just bolt routes properly?

Chloe 07/Jun/15 Lead dog

Very difficult in the heat. Bolts too spaced!

with Arran
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead β
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
tsyrett 24/May/15 Lead dog

the sea mist rolled in and the upper crimps became to greasy

tsyrett 24/May/15 TR RP
leglesslizard 16/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/15 TR
Hidden 28/Apr/15 TR dog
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
paultaylor 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Barry, alan
marcb 16/Feb/15 Lead dog
with Ben
Hidden 12/Feb/15 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Feb/15 Lead dnf
sam_craddock 06/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Phil Belcher
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead dog
AlexD 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Marti
Marti999 20/Oct/14 Lead rpt
RKirke 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ryu
dobby 200 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
La Mont 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Chloe 31/Aug/14 TR dog
Luke Owens 24/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd go, got wrong handed on the onsight. Quality crimping!

Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead dog
nacnud 27/Jul/14 -
with Richard Price, Laura Grifith, Ewan Panter
3 Names 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Douglas ?/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Martin Smith
samparsons 03/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
samparsons 03/May/14 Lead dnf
Henry.Todman 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
Coops_13 08/Apr/14 Lead dog

Fell right at the top on first RP attempt. Sun beat down and sweated up the crucial crimps. Nice moves

BenL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Missed the onsight with one sloppy fall then did worse trying to redpoint.

Justin T 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
L.miura 01/Sep/13 Lead
with Julie Carroll
goddamm7 30/Aug/13 TR β
lewiz 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 TR dog
trannumrahim 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with Rich
Rokmunky 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Trannum
RFWilkie 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
phardy 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Slipped off the crimp of the last crimp! ARRGGHHH! found new beta for the top

Hidden 29/Jun/13 TR dog
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
Aaron.Clifford 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
phardy ?/Jun/13 Lead dog

Amazing climbing, must go back and try to get it clean

quiffhanger 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Sharp but worthwhile.

with Kate
LucasHarazin 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 16/May/13 Lead rpt


with paulj
Sami Mandeel 25/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Shamina
bouldermonkey ?/Apr/13 TR
Alex More 29/Mar/13 Lead RP
with trev
trev_f 29/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Si, Alex M
DorsetGareth 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
mikewiggs ??/2013 Lead β
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Jobbo 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mlg678 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt

i've barely climbed this year and still manage to retro flash this. Not a 7a, 6c+ max!

skhill 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
andyman666999 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, easy to read, no too demanding. Puzzled thoroughly with variability of grades in portland.

andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go RP. Tried it once 2 years ago and felt hard. Felt easy this time.

with Leah
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

hard to read, long move off the underclings and a crappy crimp. need a steady head.

with Mo, John Salmon
Tim M 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Emma
climbergg 01/Jul/12 2nd
Qisheng Xie 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Gary Duke
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Ben Wolstenholme 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with john
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 15/Apr/12 TR dog
metal arms 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

1 rest

efrance24234 07/Apr/12 Lead RP

quick look then first rp

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
drewish 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Felt very steady on this. Super

Laurence Everitt 31/Mar/12 Lead RP
yarrow 31/Mar/12 TR O/S
philhaigh 28/Mar/12 Lead RP

Just as the sun set :-)

philhaigh 27/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Murray Freestone
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead β
Ducks Rock 10/Mar/12 TR dog
with Si
Linc 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead dog
thetradlad 03/Mar/12 Lead dog
Dandan82 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 15/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Jonathan Emett 23/Nov/11 Lead dnf

crimps hurting.

with toby
Toby Dunn 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
nataliehaigh 05/Nov/11 TR dnf
philhaigh 05/Nov/11 Lead dog
j miller 22/Oct/11 -
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
allydonald ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 13/Aug/11 TR RP
Jonathan Emett 28/Jun/11 Lead RP

clean 2nd go. On the first attempt I reached too high for the top break, even though I knew this was a mistake as I was doing it. move your feet up. do'h.

Hidden 28/May/11 Lead RP
Pippa 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
tom106 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with laura
loz901 06/May/11 Lead O/S
Bonkers Dog 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 10/Apr/11 2nd RP
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
wi11 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Nat
tobydunford 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Charlie
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
Tomar 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Flash. Clips in. Nice rock!

wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Nat
Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry Massey
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
james.pilbeam ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead β
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 10/Oct/10 Lead dog

fingertips on the top on my 2nd attempt - but then gravity looked up sharply, and demanded to know exactly what the hell I thought I was doing up there with no visible means of support.

with Lyndsay
mlg678 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead dog
dan gibson 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with anna barnes
mark_wellin 25/Sep/10 Lead β

i think too easy for 7a, 6c+ probably fairer. really tiny holds at the top, basically just wish yourself up

Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR
Vince 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
with John Percy
Vince 08/Aug/10 Lead RP
with John Percy
riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead dog

Ran out of steam and courage at the last move... big girls blouse.

with Yasmina
brices 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
sam_cox 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
eddieclimb 09/May/10 Lead RP

1ST RP, fingery little number!!!

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Duncan
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Gingerdarren 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with kate Boys
Billg 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
jacobjlloyd 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

Second go. Onsight attempt was a protracted affair. I was silly enough to finish up the 6b, then had to downclimb it, unclipping as I went, to get back on the line, only to follow chalk off to the right of the undercling and run out of holds. Muppet. If I had any route finding skills (see bolts, follow bolts..) it would probably have gone onsight. Felt pretty soft for the grade.

with Katie Preston
katiep 21/Mar/10 TR dog
Luke d 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

realy cool and slightly to easy for the grade i think but good climbing on it just walked up to it with no beta at all and sent it but needs another bolt at the top

Peterjuliandawson 07/Mar/10 Lead RP

My hardest route yet really cool did it when I was eleven

Hidden ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 17/Jan/10 TR dog

For the first time 7a feels possible! A bit more training and I'll have it.....

with Jon Brown
JonBrown 17/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Frustratingly good, last minute feet faff denied me

willbatho 10/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S

only one bolt at the lower off

with Mike Hawkins
MarkRyder 18/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Lee
Ben Harper 14/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Andy Webster
dannyboy83 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Seb1uk 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Scott Soithongsuk
BenNorman ?/Mar/09 Lead RP


with kev norman
tobydunford 14/Feb/09 Lead dog
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 30/Dec/08 Lead RP

grabbed the quick draw on the undercuts like a big pussy, then got through the thin, delicate crux without too much grief on first attempt. then took some falls, then sent it.

with josh
feilx 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
vertigo 18/Oct/08 Lead RP

Cracking moves from the undercut upwards. 1st RP.

rhino_bill 18/Oct/08 TR dog
ThomasB ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

1st 7a on sight!

DrGav 20/Sep/08 Lead rpt


with Wendy
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Great climbing, really had to look around for the holds but they appear just when you need them.

with Chunk
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead β
Matt Bennett 10/Jul/08 Lead RP

1st rp

Martin Krasnansky 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
schof 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/08 Lead RP


with John Marsland
Morgan Woods 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Excellent route....slightly more fingery than the 7a to the right.

with Wilbur
Wilbur 23/Mar/08 Lead RP

2nd go - chuffed with the quick redpoint

with Iain
catt 23/Mar/08 Lead dog

Bolt to bolt. Should go next time on it.

with George
marky ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden ??/2008 TR RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
Graham Westbrook ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 TR
DrGav 15/Sep/07 Lead RP

Hard to spot the crimp on the crux, then more hunting around. Lovely once i spotted the holds.

with Chris
andy jennings ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
chris sm 05/May/07 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
chris sm 15/Apr/07 TR β
with Pippa Froggatt
JPGR 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
Matt Shepherd 20/Mar/07 Lead RP
feeko ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 15/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Rin
givemetea ?/Oct/06 Lead RP
with Tony Yates
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
bigie bob 30/Jan/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
bobboulderer ?/Jul/05 TR dog
with Rob Shoosmith
Hidden 29/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/03 2nd dog
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/1997 -
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1996 Lead
Nigel Coe 15/Apr/89 2nd dog


with Harry Venables, Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HannahT, Hidden, vickydavies, Hidden, GeneralFifi, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Dangerous, Hidden, rhino_bill, Hidden, strudles, Mr Tumness, Hidden, Hidden, Seb2007, PowerPigtails, jackappleby, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, balmybaldwin, J/mie
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set