Medusa Falls*** 7a
[Unknown climber at Medusa Falls area, 2 kb]15m. An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © ROCKFAX
FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Photo: Unknown climber at Medusa Falls area © Wilbur
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 274 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Sep/14

2nd go
Graham Westbrook - Lead RP - 01/Sep/14 with Gibbon

RKirke - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14

Acoustic_Olly - Lead RP - 21/Aug/14

Direct start
philhaigh - Lead RP - 19/Aug/14 with Tom Adams, Rob Kennard, Gem Minihan

Shane Willis - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14

philhaigh - Lead dog - 07/Aug/14 with Kathrin and Lars, Natalie Haigh

3 Names - Lead dog - 13/Jul/14 with Jon Leighton

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14

Dizz - 2nd - 13/Jul/14 with Sadie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Super route. Did the 6c+ variation after a fall on the direct start
s0458892 - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Rory Bascombe - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Dad

Amazing Climb, one of my best performances on rock. Equal grade to my hardest red point! Clean On-sight, one of those wonderful days when it all comes together.
pymn nice but dim - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

richy85 - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/14 with Paul

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Apr/14

Worked the crux between 1st and 2nd bolts, came down and cleaned.
SandyJJS - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - TR dog - 12/Apr/14

twem - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14 with Nicholas Eaton

BenL - Lead RP - 26/Mar/14 with Ben Corbey, Josh Bamsey

josh Bamsey - Lead RP - 02/Mar/14 with I_hang_dog

Tough and bouldery around the 2nd bolt, very polished at the bottom. Nice moves.
sarpedon - Lead dog - 01/Mar/14

mrteale - Lead RP - 29/Sep/13

redjerry - TR O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Danny

Sent first go placing draws. Led as a warm up. Soft.
andyman666999 - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/13 with Ash

Will be back, hopefully it won't get much more polish!
Jackwd - Lead dnf - 19/Aug/13 with Rob Smith

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13

First 7a. Worked it for longer than I care to say.
mop449 - Lead rpt - Aug/13 with Greg Headley, Sam Carr, Gaiane de Brabanter

Henry.Todman - Lead RP - Aug/13

Julian Cooper - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Liz Cooper

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13

Had to change my pants after dogging my way up this! totally bricked it! Think i could send it fresh but I had to clean the neighboring route
GrahamGiles - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/13

fantastic route some how just did it first go with no problems, pretty unusual for me !!
will black - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Jun/13

mop449 - Lead RP - 21/Jun/13 with John Beesley

Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with JackMac

Placed draws. Intuitive fingery start, fluffed OS by missing sinker jug at second draw. Plenty of tufa jugs but just have to find them. Found them figured sequence, settled into rest for RP. Sun came out, super hot and a queue developed for the route. Un inspired so left them to it. Will come back early AM to RP next visit.
andyman666999 - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

Neil Tucker - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Tom Adam, Robert Bronsdon, Richard Reynolds

Perryman - 01/Jun/13 with JAMES

Powerful but amazing. Must go back and try to get it clean
phardy - Lead dog - Jun/13

lewiz - Lead dog - 27/May/13 with Pete Gagie

Hidden - TR dog - 26/May/13

yuk. slippy tufa.
Jonathan Emett - Lead dnf - 16/May/13 with paulj

sammo247 - Lead RP - 06/May/13 with ambrooker, zappa, chiverstom

chiverstom - Lead RP - 06/May/13 with zappa, Sam Keyne

asmith37 - Lead RP - 05/May/13 with Bex Leigh

Horrible!
DorsetGareth - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/13 with Tom B

dmoir - Lead RP - 03/Apr/13 with Lauren Davies

Brilliant fun, got it on the First RP after getting very pumped on the onsight.
Stefan_Morris - Lead RP - 27/Mar/13 with AndrewJamesCherry

Stayed left of bolts the whole way. Super slippery footholds!
Lloyders - Lead RP - 26/Mar/13 with Air

I think it looks better than it climbs, was terrified the whole way up! 2nd go.
air - Lead RP - 26/Mar/13 with Lloyd

MartyJ - Lead β - 24/Mar/13

Nick205228 - Lead O/S - Mar/13

Hidden - TR - 07/Jan/13

Enjoyable RP, loved the strong crux.
AndrewJamesCherry - Lead rpt - 2013 with stef morris

RadekNowak - Lead RP - 2013

Tommyads - 2013

Worked moves whilst putting in draws then sent on first redpoint attempt.
DP1977 - Lead RP - 2013 with Jon Harris

LukeyG - Lead - 13/Nov/12

really slippery. worked crux, got it but couldn't clip 2nd bolt, came off and too pumped to give it another real attempt. very doable.
jackappleby - Lead dnf - 11/Nov/12

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Oct/12

DannyK - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12 with chrislgk, Katie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/12

etrillaud - Lead dog - 09/Sep/12

skhill - Lead RP - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Aug/12

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

Slipped off first hard bit - got back on and carried on, so not quite a redpoint.
Brian H - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12 with Andrew Hammond

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/12

Hard 2nd clip
mark20 - Lead RP - 25/Aug/12

TommityP - Lead dog - 23/Aug/12

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/12

keithpeck - Lead β - 11/Aug/12

gg4419 - Lead RP - Aug/12

Linc - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/12

EllaRus - Lead β - Jun/12 with john

becster - 2nd RP - 12/May/12 with Mark_Day

Finally! Never have to do it again!
Thinker01 - Lead RP - 12/May/12 with Bec

one fall, should have been an onsight. soft for the grade
adamjeffs - Lead dog - 06/May/12

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 02/May/12 with Lee

1st RP
Martin Cleaver - Lead RP - 20/Apr/12 with Alek

RP1
alek - Lead RP - 20/Apr/12 with Martin Cleaver

Rupey - Lead β - Apr/12

Sebastien Gastaud - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Kim Mulji

kim.mulji - TR dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/12

Flash. Nice flowstone.
Tomar - Lead β - 10/Mar/12 with Ross Davidson

An improvement over last years attempt!
yarrow - TR RP - 03/Mar/12 with Jack B

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Mar/12

Indy92 - TR β - Mar/12

matt perks - 2012

Brian H - Lead RP - 2012

2nd go.
Kevster - Lead RP - 13/Nov/11

Tophe - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/11 with tom maidwell

Tried to get sequence between 2 and 3 clip.
funsized - Lead dnf - 11/Nov/11 with Tom Maidwell

Starting raining just as i started, makes it so much more difficult
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 24/Oct/11 with Alex More

trants1 - 2nd dog - 23/Oct/11 with deklan

deklan - TR - 23/Oct/11 with mark, chris

First 7a
RFWilkie - Lead RP - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Sep/11

Jo Davison - TR dog - 02/Sep/11 with Keith Jackson

bad head day
Quiddity - Lead dnf - 20/Aug/11 with Curious Yellow

Second go - nice looking line but a little cruxy and the difficulties are over quickly.
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 23/Jul/11 with Ruth Buckberry, Harry Thorpe, Jay Kay

Matt77 - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/11 with Kalju

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/11

Bates - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

j miller - Lead - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jun/11

didn't enjoy this one
James Marshall - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

Alex More - Lead dog - 13/Jun/11 with Joel

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/11

tom106 - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with laura

loz901 - Lead dog - 06/May/11

That was hard work! But what a beauty once through the starting crux.
Daniel - Lead RP - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 02/Apr/11

1st RP
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11 with CarolineH

Very tough to clip 2nd bolt, was too tired really
Harry Thorpe - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/11 with Laurence Everitt

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Mar/11

yarrow - TR dog - 13/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 2011

such a cool route
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/10

Fell a couple of times on flash, toproped once then lead clean. Felt just like spanish limestone. Tufatastic!
lukehodson - Lead RP - 09/Oct/10 with Charlotte

natalietanzer - Lead RP - 26/Sep/10 with pete

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with jacquie robinson

willbatho - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/10

Bouldery little beast, brilliant flowstone climbing at the bottom - tricky footwork - which eases as you get higher.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Dunken

riddle - Lead dog - 31/Jul/10 with Yasmina

BluecrowX - Lead RP - 11/Jul/10 with Thomas Glover

Qisheng Xie - Lead RP - 11/Jul/10 with Thomas Glover

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/10

first 7a, direct start is a nice boulder problem
pawelx - Lead RP - 05/Jun/10

jh123 - Lead RP - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Ian Broome - Lead - 01/Jun/10 with Matt

slav - Lead RP - Jun/10

brices - Lead RP - 23/May/10

not the direct start
joese7en - Lead O/S - 21/May/10

'orrible climb.
thomb - Lead dog - 15/May/10 with Jo

marcpontin - Lead rpt - May/10 with huw

alaan - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

sam_cox - Lead β - 17/Apr/10

nacnud - Lead dog - 15/Apr/10 with Marcus Boal

Hidden - TR - 15/Apr/10

GarethHall - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10 with George Swadling

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/10

Amazing route... no where near climbing it yet though!
Ceridwen - TR dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Shona

Shona H - TR - 13/Mar/10 with Ceri Hutchinson

Gareth - TR RP - 13/Mar/10 with Mark

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Mar/10

timharrison - TR dnf - 07/Mar/10 with Iain Moodie, Suse

Finaly worked all the moves after 4 hours, will be back
Gareth - TR dog - 13/Feb/10 with Andrew

Kept getting shut down on the crux between 1st and second bolts. Eventually got a sequence but by then couldn't summon the energy to do it in one. Excellent climbing. Will be back ofr the red point soon.
andybenham - TR dog - 13/Feb/10 with Gareth Hayfield

What a crazy great flowstone route. Another 7a tick goes, 7b here I come!
Ben Vieyra - Lead RP - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Nov/09

2nd try.
AlistairB - Lead RP - 08/Nov/09 with Tom Coyne

gejones - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Sean

Dan 85 - Lead RP - 13/Sep/09 with Alex B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

The polish is ok if you keep to the right as per the easier direct variant. Interesting bolt locations for cosseted cheddar climbers!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Steve W

wolverine - 26/Jul/09 with Paul Latham

2nd bolt clipped.
Richard Hall - Lead RP - Jul/09 with Alex Collins

Slippery as a wet fish. Polish makes the route a bit of a chore rather than the joy it probably once was. Ended up leading clean twice today...
vertigo - Lead RP - 20/Jun/09 with Jake Lloyd

Really cool. One very hard sequence. Very scary to clip second bolt (preclipped).
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 08/Jun/09 with Jonny

derico - Lead β - 08/Jun/09 with Sadact

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/09

Birdo - Lead RP - 06/Jun/09 with Wicks

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/09

virgil - Jun/09

With a rest on the 2nd bolt.
HamishD - Lead - 02/May/09 with matt savage

Hidden - TR RP - 12/Apr/09

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Nick Arding

unbelievably polished, theres glassy flowstone and then there's this! nice rock formations, make it worth a star or two, but no way a 3 star now.
mark_wellin - Lead rpt - Apr/09

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 29/Mar/09 with Mike Hawkins

nblackbeard - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/09 with Billy Mclennan

JimR - 01/Mar/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

bottom crux is hard- first bolt seems high. weird route- mainly jugs but weir contortions neccessary to utilise them. grunted a bit at top.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 29/Dec/08 with oli tilbury

jfreeman - Lead RP - 25/Oct/08 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Jon Freeman

tobydunford - Lead dog - 18/Oct/08 with Lisa Paling

tobydunford - Lead dog - 18/Oct/08 with Lisa Paling

Ben Harper - Lead β - 23/Sep/08 with Nils Amelinckx

garburn - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08 with Ben Harper

1 fall
Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 12/Sep/08 with Matic

Felt hard - footholds weren't great.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Chunk

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Aug/08

Paz - Lead RP - 02/Aug/08 with WG

Ben Tyrrell - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/08

urgency needed at the start. good route
ksjs - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with goosebump

tedj234 - Lead RP - 18/Jun/08 with Kate Campbell

dominic lee - Lead - Jun/08 with andy elliot

Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead - 09/Feb/08

two falls but wayyyy cleaner than last time. pretty happy :-)
gfoster - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Nick Blackbeard

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jan/08

Hidden - TR RP - 2008

nawface - Lead - 2008

jw231 - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/07 with nblackbeard

finally got it clean :)
nblackbeard - Lead RP - 17/Oct/07 with James Whitlock

Such a nice route. Yet to get the clean lead tho :(, but I will beat her next time.
nblackbeard - Lead dog - 13/Oct/07 with James Whitlock

not hard so much as requiring a large amount of working
gfoster - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/07 with James Witlock

jw231 - Lead RP - 12/Oct/07 with gfoster

Lloyders - TR dog - Oct/07 with Matt Keyse

clean on TR
onlytovey - Lead RP - 24/Aug/07 with Mike Peddle

Castleclimber - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07 with Tim Hussain

I loved this climb. Amazing rock formations and a clear line make this a good route (unlike most sport routes which follow non-lines).
Monk - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Jon, Olivia, Matt, Mandy

Ramon Marin - Lead RP - 12/May/07 with Salomon Fernandez

StuM - Lead RP - 07/Apr/07 with Chris Watson, Alex Cannon

Jus - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Phil Belcher - 2007

JPGR - TR - 20/Aug/06 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/06

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with The Wife

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Jun/06

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jun/06

Hidden - TR dnf - 21/Jun/06

Richard Horn - Lead RP - Jan/06

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - 2006

1 fall in top section (pumped)
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 16/Jul/05

endless winter - Lead RP - Jul/05 with Iain

Hidden - Lead dog - May/05

Hidden - Lead dog - May/05

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Adam Mulholland

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2005

bigie bob - Lead RP - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Aug/04

Hidden - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/May/04

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/03 with Rich Tree

AlexD - Lead β - 19/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/03

2nd go
simon kimber - Lead RP - 2003 with Kev Kierney

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2003

Rock Fairy - 2nd dog - Jun/02 with david

Polished little number - 3 stars for looks and 1/2 for climbing through the polish!!! Very close to ground fall attempting to clip the third bolt as foot popped - FEW!
eddieclimb - Lead RP - Jun/02 with Kathryn Crouch

lx - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/01

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/01

Richard White - 2000

Paul Clarke - Lead - 2000 with Various

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Mark Kemball - Lead RP - 03/Apr/99 with Jason Lloyd

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/98

Hidden - TR dog - 1998

phardman - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/97

Approx date
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/95 with jon

Hidden - 16/Apr/95

kristian - Lead O/S - 1995

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris_woodsy, J1_TOV, Rich2002, neitsroth, Pete Dangerous, Tru, Dan_F, theloringharvey, joe1joe1joe2, JackMac, Mr Tumness, lewiz, DJ Nelson, kateg2009, Jeremy Crampin, Dean177, jameswhitty, Mike Green, olidea, PowerPigtails, jackappleby, Siderunner, givemetea, Robin Head, Wayne.Gaudin, Ezy Ryder, Bob Loblaw

Voting
Total votes cast 181
hard 7a+0 of 98
7a+0 of 98
easy 7a+1 of 98
hard 7a12 of 98
7a52 of 98
easy 7a21 of 98
hard 6c+11 of 98
6c+0 of 98
easy 6c+1 of 98
3 Stars40 of 83
2 Stars26 of 83
1 Star16 of 83
0 Stars0 of 83
Bag of .....1 of 83
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf