Rockfax Description
An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

afterthesend 15/May Lead RP

Got it first go after climbing to first bolt and backing off this time last year. Amazing climb, possibly best 7a I've done on Portland.

Jack Shewring 14/May Lead RP

I used the crimps out to the right, I'm not sure if these are in at the grade. It seems a bit eliminate if you can't.

ali.scott 08/May Lead RP
Dandan82 07/May Lead O/S

Disgusting first half, not enjoyable at all.

Hidden 19/Apr TR
Hidden 19/Apr Lead rpt
AlexD 16/Apr 2nd rpt
with Sophie, Brian, Mike
Sophie Nunn 16/Apr TR dog
with Brian
brian watson 16/Apr TR dog
Kipper-Phil Smith 22/Mar Lead RP

1st RP very good route hard bit is at the bottom

jacob shieldhouse hadley 20/Mar Lead G/U

never climbed flowstone, turns out im shit, but this route is worth 4 stars! very cruxy route!

with mum
tommccluskey 13/Mar Lead RP
with Jess, Petar
TonyB 13/Mar Lead RP

Slipped by the 1st bolt. Climbed it the next go but with very bad style.

with Adam
Rembrandt 13/Mar TR dog
Marti999 07/Mar Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2016 -
FlavioL1989 22/Nov/15 Lead RP

2nd go

rajeshwarbisht 22/Nov/15 TR dnf
with Flavio
Bernie L 01/Nov/15 Lead RP

1st RP

cdpuk 01/Nov/15 Lead dog
ian d f 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Liz F
Angus Taylor 25/Oct/15 Lead RP

1st RP, felt pretty burly at the start.

chrismadar 25/Oct/15 TR dog

Really cool route, kind of wished I'd gone for the lead as probably would have tried harder!

Dizz 25/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Ian F
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 12/Sep/15 -
Didymus 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with Paul
lewiz 09/Aug/15 Lead RP

HARD! Hardest I've had to work for 7a in a while. Is it harder for tall people?

with Artur Malczuk
artmal 09/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Lewis
hankyc 13/Jul/15 Lead O/S

slippery flow! just mangaed to sketch up it

Sam4242 08/Jul/15 Lead G/U
ElArt 08/Jul/15 2nd
GrahamGiles 04/Jul/15 Lead RP

Got on this 2 years ago and nearly s**t my pants, tried it today and got it second try. Had a mental scar from this one so it's nice to finally put it to bed.

with Renna Clifford, Aaron Clifford
Aaron.Clifford 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Graham Giles
Sam4242 01/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Jun/15 TR β
henry.jeffreys 15/Jun/15 Lead RP

2nd RP

with Em K
Hidden 28/May/15 TR dog
Nick Russell 24/May/15 Lead RP

Very good, but I found it hard. 7a felt fair for the sequence to the right (between bolts 1 and 2). I couldn't make the direct go at all, maybe because I was tired?

Martin Bagshaw 16/May/15 Lead dog

Rested around the first clip twice, then got to the top with no more falls.

with Ed Green
jamesb101 04/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Apr/15 TR dog
Fraser hill-casey 13/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead
raymondlinklater 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Ben Talks, Chris stepanek, Charlie Noakes, Joe Seymour
Charlie Noakes 21/Mar/15 Lead RP

2nd go

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
garywong 07/Mar/15 TR dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead dog
Graham Westbrook 01/Sep/14 Lead RP

2nd go

RKirke 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ollyisaclimber 21/Aug/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 19/Aug/14 Lead RP

Direct start

Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 07/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Kathrin and Lars, Natalie Haigh
3 Names 13/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 13/Jul/14 2nd
with Sadie
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
s0458892 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Super route. Did the 6c+ variation after a fall on the direct start

Rory Bascombe 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Dad
pymn nice but dim 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing Climb, one of my best performances on rock. Equal grade to my hardest red point! Clean On-sight, one of those wonderful days when it all comes together.

Caspian Johnson 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Quite a fight at the start

with Tor
richy85 25/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Paul
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead RP
SandyJJS 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

Worked the crux between 1st and 2nd bolts, came down and cleaned.

Hidden 12/Apr/14 TR dog
twem 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Nicholas Eaton
BenL 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
josh Bamsey 02/Mar/14 Lead RP
sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Tough and bouldery around the 2nd bolt, very polished at the bottom. Nice moves.

mrteale 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
redjerry 24/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Danny
andyman666999 20/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Sent first go placing draws. Led as a warm up. Soft.

with Ash
Jackwd 19/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Will be back, hopefully it won't get much more polish!

Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
mop449 ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt

First 7a. Worked it for longer than I care to say.

with Greg Headley, Sam Carr, Gaiane de Brabanter
Henry.Todman ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
Joedt ?/Aug/13 Lead β
gheadley27 ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
with mop449
Julian Cooper 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Liz Cooper
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Had to change my pants after dogging my way up this! totally bricked it! Think i could send it fresh but I had to clean the neighboring route

Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead rpt
will black 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S

fantastic route some how just did it first go with no problems, pretty unusual for me !!

Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead RP
mop449 21/Jun/13 Lead dog
Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
andyman666999 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Placed draws. Intuitive fingery start, fluffed OS by missing sinker jug at second draw. Plenty of tufa jugs but just have to find them. Found them figured sequence, settled into rest for RP. Sun came out, super hot and a queue developed for the route. Un inspired so left them to it. Will come back early AM to RP next visit.

Neil Tucker 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Tom Adam, Robert Bronsdon, Richard Reynolds
Perryman 01/Jun/13 -
with JAMES
phardy ?/Jun/13 Lead dog

Powerful but amazing. Must go back and try to get it clean

lewiz 27/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 26/May/13 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 16/May/13 Lead dnf

yuk. slippy tufa.

sammo247 06/May/13 Lead RP
chiverstom 06/May/13 Lead RP
asmith37 05/May/13 Lead RP
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead dnf


with Tom B
thomb 21/Apr/13 2nd dog
dmoir 03/Apr/13 Lead RP
Stefan_Morris 27/Mar/13 Lead RP

Brilliant fun, got it on the First RP after getting very pumped on the onsight.

Lloyders 26/Mar/13 Lead RP

Stayed left of bolts the whole way. Super slippery footholds!

with Air
air 26/Mar/13 Lead RP

I think it looks better than it climbs, was terrified the whole way up! 2nd go.

with Lloyd
MartyJ 24/Mar/13 Lead β
Nick205228 ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/13 TR
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead rpt

Enjoyable RP, loved the strong crux.

RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2013 -
DP1977 ??/2013 Lead RP

Worked moves whilst putting in draws then sent on first redpoint attempt.

Stefan_Morris ??/2013 Lead
with Andy
LukeyG 13/Nov/12 Lead
jackappleby 11/Nov/12 Lead dnf

really slippery. worked crux, got it but couldn't clip 2nd bolt, came off and too pumped to give it another real attempt. very doable.

Hidden 07/Oct/12 TR dog
DannyK 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with chrislgk, Katie
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf
etrillaud 09/Sep/12 Lead dog
skhill 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Aug/12 TR dnf
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Slipped off first hard bit - got back on and carried on, so not quite a redpoint.

with Andrew Hammond
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead β
mark20 25/Aug/12 Lead RP

Hard 2nd clip

Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 23/Aug/12 2nd dog
keithpeck 11/Aug/12 Lead β
gg4419 ?/Aug/12 Lead RP
Linc 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead RP
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead β
with john
becster 12/May/12 2nd RP
Thinker01 12/May/12 Lead RP

Finally! Never have to do it again!

with Bec
adamjeffs 06/May/12 Lead dog

one fall, should have been an onsight. soft for the grade

MarkRyder 02/May/12 Lead RP
with Lee
Martin Cleaver 20/Apr/12 Lead RP

1st RP

with Alek
alek 20/Apr/12 Lead RP


Rupey ?/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR
Sebastien Gastaud 24/Mar/12 TR
kim.mulji 24/Mar/12 TR dnf
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Tomar 10/Mar/12 Lead β

Flash. Nice flowstone.

yarrow 03/Mar/12 TR RP

An improvement over last years attempt!

with Jack B
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead RP
Indy92 ?/Mar/12 TR β
matt perks ??/2012 -
Brian H ??/2012 Lead RP
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog


with James Kingswood
Kevster 13/Nov/11 Lead RP

2nd go.

Tophe 11/Nov/11 Lead O/S
funsized 11/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Tried to get sequence between 2 and 3 clip.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Oct/11 Lead dog

Starting raining just as i started, makes it so much more difficult

trants1 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
with deklan
deklan 23/Oct/11 TR
with mark, chris
RFWilkie 15/Oct/11 Lead RP

First 7a

Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
Jo Davison 02/Sep/11 TR dog
with Keith Jackson
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 20/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Second go - nice looking line but a little cruxy and the difficulties are over quickly.

Laurence Everitt 23/Jul/11 Lead RP
Matt77 09/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Kalju
Hidden 05/Jul/11 Lead RP
Bates 02/Jul/11 Lead RP
j miller ?/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead dog
James Marshall 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

didn't enjoy this one

Alex More 13/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Joel
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
tom106 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with laura
loz901 06/May/11 Lead dog
Daniel ?/May/11 Lead RP

That was hard work! But what a beauty once through the starting crux.

xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 TR dog
Bristoldave 19/Mar/11 Lead RP

1st RP

Harry Thorpe 14/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Very tough to clip 2nd bolt, was too tired really

Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead β
yarrow 13/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S

such a cool route

lukehodson 09/Oct/10 Lead RP

Fell a couple of times on flash, toproped once then lead clean. Felt just like spanish limestone. Tufatastic!

ThomasB ?/Oct/10 Lead RP
natalietanzer 26/Sep/10 Lead RP
with pete
dan gibson 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
willbatho 10/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Mike Goldthorp 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Bouldery little beast, brilliant flowstone climbing at the bottom - tricky footwork - which eases as you get higher.

with Dunken
riddle 31/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Yasmina
BluecrowX 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Thomas Glover
Qisheng Xie 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Thomas Glover
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead
pawelx 05/Jun/10 Lead RP

first 7a, direct start is a nice boulder problem

jh123 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 01/Jun/10 Lead
with Matt
slav ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
brices 23/May/10 Lead RP
joese7en 21/May/10 Lead O/S

not the direct start

thomb 15/May/10 Lead dog

'orrible climb.

with Jo
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead rpt
with huw
alaan 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
sam_cox 17/Apr/10 Lead β
nacnud 15/Apr/10 Lead dog
with Marcus Boal
Hidden 15/Apr/10 TR
GarethHall 11/Apr/10 Lead dog
with George Swadling
Hidden ?/Apr/10 2nd dog
Ceridwen 13/Mar/10 TR dnf

Amazing route... no where near climbing it yet though!

with Shona
Shona H 13/Mar/10 TR
Gareth 13/Mar/10 TR RP
with Mark
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead RP
timharrison 07/Mar/10 TR dnf
Gareth 13/Feb/10 TR dog

Finaly worked all the moves after 4 hours, will be back

with Andrew
andybenham 13/Feb/10 TR dog

Kept getting shut down on the crux between 1st and second bolts. Eventually got a sequence but by then couldn't summon the energy to do it in one. Excellent climbing. Will be back ofr the red point soon.

Ben Vieyra ??/2010 Lead RP

What a crazy great flowstone route. Another 7a tick goes, 7b here I come!

Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Nov/09 Lead RP
AlistairB 08/Nov/09 Lead RP

2nd try.

with Tom Coyne
gejones 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sean
Dan 85 13/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Alex B
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rab Carrington
Tim M 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S

The polish is ok if you keep to the right as per the easier direct variant. Interesting bolt locations for cosseted cheddar climbers!

with Steve W
Mike_Hayes 26/Jul/09 -
Richard Hall ?/Jul/09 Lead RP

2nd bolt clipped.

with Alex Collins
vertigo 20/Jun/09 Lead RP

Slippery as a wet fish. Polish makes the route a bit of a chore rather than the joy it probably once was. Ended up leading clean twice today...

jacobjlloyd 20/Jun/09 Lead
Jon_Warner 08/Jun/09 Lead RP

Really cool. One very hard sequence. Very scary to clip second bolt (preclipped).

with Jonny
derico 08/Jun/09 Lead β
with Sadact
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead β
Birdo 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Wicks
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead
virgil ?/Jun/09 -
hamish2016 02/May/09 Lead

With a rest on the 2nd bolt.

with matt savage
Hidden 12/Apr/09 TR RP
Rob Pitt 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
mark_wellin ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt

unbelievably polished, theres glassy flowstone and then there's this! nice rock formations, make it worth a star or two, but no way a 3 star now.

Ed Babs 29/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
nblackbeard 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
JimR 01/Mar/09 -
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
w.pettet-smith 29/Dec/08 Lead

bottom crux is hard- first bolt seems high. weird route- mainly jugs but weir contortions neccessary to utilise them. grunted a bit at top.

with oli tilbury
jfreeman 25/Oct/08 Lead RP
simonr 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 18/Oct/08 Lead dog
tobydunford 18/Oct/08 Lead dog
Ben Harper 23/Sep/08 Lead β
garburn 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 12/Sep/08 TR dog

1 fall

with Matic
Andrew Barker 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Felt hard - footholds weren't great.

with Chunk
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead β
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead RP
with WG
Ben Tyrrell 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
steveb2006 27/Jul/08 Lead

Led with one rest after Roland does it clean

with Angela Pingram, Roland Smith
ksjs 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

urgency needed at the start. good route

tedj234 18/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Kate Campbell
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
Martin Krasnansky 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead
gfoster 09/Feb/08 2nd

two falls but wayyyy cleaner than last time. pretty happy :-)

Hidden 28/Jan/08 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 TR RP
nawface ??/2008 Lead
jw231 17/Oct/07 Lead rpt
nblackbeard 17/Oct/07 Lead RP

finally got it clean :)

nblackbeard 13/Oct/07 Lead dog

Such a nice route. Yet to get the clean lead tho :(, but I will beat her next time.

gfoster 12/Oct/07 2nd dog

not hard so much as requiring a large amount of working

jw231 12/Oct/07 Lead RP
with gfoster
Lloyders ?/Oct/07 TR dog
with Matt Keyse
onlytovey 24/Aug/07 Lead RP

clean on TR

with Mike Peddle
Castleclimber 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Hussain
Monk 26/May/07 Lead O/S

I loved this climb. Amazing rock formations and a clear line make this a good route (unlike most sport routes which follow non-lines).

with Jon, Olivia, Matt, Mandy
Ramon Marin 12/May/07 Lead RP
with Salomon Fernandez
StuM 07/Apr/07 Lead RP
with Chris Watson, Alex Cannon
Jus 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
JPGR 20/Aug/06 TR
with Steve
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
whispering nic 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jun/06 TR dog
Hidden 21/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jun/06 TR dnf
Richard Horn ?/Jan/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
ASchwirtz 16/Jul/05 Lead dog

1 fall in top section (pumped)

endless winter ?/Jul/05 Lead RP
with Iain
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
_m.cox_ ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Lead O/S
bigie bob ?/Sep/04 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/04 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
Hidden 07/May/04 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 03/Aug/03 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
goi.ashmore 04/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Tree
AlexD 19/Apr/03 Lead β
Hidden 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
simon kimber ??/2003 Lead RP

2nd go

with Kev Kierney
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd dog
with david
eddieclimb ?/Jun/02 Lead RP

Polished little number - 3 stars for looks and 1/2 for climbing through the polish!!! Very close to ground fall attempting to clip the third bolt as foot popped - FEW!

with Kathryn Crouch
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/99 Lead RP
with Jason Lloyd
Hidden 01/Apr/99 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 TR dog
innes ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1997 2nd

Approx date

Robmwatt ??/1997 -
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 16/Apr/95 -
kristian ??/1995 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
evans859, Matthew Davies, Hidden, Hidden, max_dickens, John_Beesley, Giles Davis, James.Burnett, Ben J, Hidden, chris_woodsy, Hidden, Rich2002, neitsroth, Pete Dangerous, theloringharvey, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Mr Tumness, lewiz, Hidden, kateg2009, Jeremy Crampin, Dean177, jameswhitty, Mike Green RIP, olidea, PowerPigtails, jackappleby, Hidden, Hidden, givemetea, Robin Head, Wayne.Gaudin, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Bob Loblaw, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 94
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set