Rockfax Description
A superb pitch. Sustained and delicate climbing with a strenny finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Apr/1994

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

ian d f 25/Oct Lead O/S
with Liz F
Angus Taylor 25/Oct Lead β

retroflash. felt okay today

chrismadar 25/Oct Lead O/S

First proper 7a onsight, pretty happy! Wasn't even that psyched and it just went!

with Alasdair Dickinson
Josh Hadley 25/Oct Lead β
Hidden 30/Sep Lead G/U
Hidden 11/Sep Lead dnf
Charlotteking 06/Sep Lead dog

Fell on the last hold because I was pumped and didn't warm up

max_dickens 03/Aug Lead dog

Great route should've gone for the Rp holds are all there just quite sustained

with charlotte
Didymus 02/Aug Lead dog
with Nick
hankyc 13/Jul Lead O/S

really good technical line best line of the day

Sam4242 08/Jul Lead O/S

First 7a onsight

xiangoh ?/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun Lead RP
SDM 28/Jun Lead
with Michael
rajeshwarbisht 28/Jun TR dnf
with Michael
samparsons 16/Jun Lead O/S

First 7a onsight get in!

Hidden 14/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun Lead dog
Giles Davis 06/Jun Lead RP

3rd go Redpoint, Superb climbing with a stiff little crux. Great moves. Probably the best 7a I've climbed so far.

Chloe 12/May TR dog

Came back to this after trying it a year ago and couldn't find the holds.

with Arran
Hidden ?/May TR
Hidden 18/Apr Lead RP
Rupey 14/Apr Lead RP

First go, tried once a couple of years ago.

with alan
innes 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 06/Apr Lead
chris_woodsy ?/Apr Lead RP
garywong 07/Mar TR dog
Angus Taylor 02/Nov/14 TR dog
petewebb 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Oliver Ross
OliverRoss 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

1st 7a! Almost onsighted it. 2 easy moves from the top, but was pumped and snatched for a hold and only just missed it. Appropriately named.

with Caesar, Pete Webb
Jane Weir 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 -
Giles Davis 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead β
Graham Westbrook 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Found it easier than Medusa Falls

with Gibbon
RKirke 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Chloe 31/Aug/14 TR dog

Almost flashed. Fell off easy move at the break by skipping the intermediate pinch.

Acoustic_Olly 21/Aug/14 Lead β
Dizz 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
with chris colebrook
Hidden 16/Aug/14 TR RP
GrahamGiles 01/Aug/14 Lead RP

Came back after trying it last year twice and retro flashed as a warm up due to rain expected and had to get it done quick.

jonleighton 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 13/Jul/14 Lead
with Sadie
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 TR dog
mop449 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

2nd go

RFWilkie 14/Jun/14 Lead RP

Almost a retro flash, felt very easy today.

tombrol 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Pawel Kedzierski
Hidden 04/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
philhaigh 31/May/14 Lead RP
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
nataliehaigh 31/May/14 2nd dnf
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, Phil Haigh
Caspian Johnson 04/May/14 Lead RP

Stunning climbing. 1st RP

with Tor
richy85 25/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Paul
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead RP
BenL 26/Mar/14 Lead β
with Ben Corbey, Josh Bamsey
josh Bamsey 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
Gabe Oliver 23/Mar/14 Lead
mrteale 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/13 TR dog
Barry Kerslake 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Shamina Kapadia
coneco 01/Sep/13 Lead RP

RP on 3rd go

with Julie Carroll
jsaric 31/Aug/13 -
Pete Dangerous 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Radek, Kamil, lewiz
artmal 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
lewiz 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great fun

Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Julian Cooper 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Liz Cooper
Perryman 21/Jul/13 Lead β
Monkeyboy 20/Jul/13 Lead dog

Will nail clean next trip.

Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
adamjeffs 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Dan_F ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Ben jones
GrahamGiles 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

By far my most favorite route in Portland. Worked the moves then went for the RP, got to the jugs at the top and i just couldn't hold any longer! HOW COULD I FAIL ON THE EASY BIT!?!?! next time

Laurence Everitt 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
Qisheng Xie 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
Aaron.Clifford 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 26/May/13 Lead rpt

Retro-flash. No recollection of route until I saw my previous UKC entry :) Really enjoyed it second time round too.

Julie Carroll 06/May/13 Lead RP
with Sol Fernandez
chiverstom 06/May/13 Lead O/S
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead RP

Retro flash :)

with Tom B
dmoir 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 31/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Iain
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2013 -

First 7a onsight. Probably a softy.

Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead RP
ANC 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First route at Portland....not the best warm up but a good route. Probably soft end 7a.

etrillaud 09/Sep/12 Lead dog
skhill 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First 7a flash/ onsight. Beautiful route, great technical wall then lovely jug pulling through the final bulge. Awesome experience

with Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mark20 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Daniel 20/Jul/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Tim M 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great route, but don't believe rockfax: Medusa Falls is the one to do!

with Emma
climbergg 01/Jul/12 2nd
philhaigh 06/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with john
Jeronimo 24/May/12 Lead O/S
Jay81 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with david
Martin Cleaver 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Alek
alek 20/Apr/12 Lead β
efrance24234 08/Apr/12 Lead β

pritty much onsight but had a go over a year ago but only got up to 2nd bolt then.

catblack 02/Apr/12 Lead RP

Great climb, every move is amazing! First 7a redpoint, didn't feel that hard. Nicely technical and slabby. Took me a while to figure out the move over the roof

Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead β
Tomar 10/Mar/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint. Techy climbing.

yarrow 03/Mar/12 Lead

Fall from last clip, just before the jugs.Be Back to finish soon

LJC 16/Feb/12 Lead RP
with Jack, Tom
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead dog
matt perks ??/2012 -
funsized 11/Nov/11 Lead dog

1 mess up on lower sequence (V. shoddy climbing on my part). Didn't have time to redpoint. should go next time.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Nov/11 TR rpt
Sami Mandeel 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight - whoop whoop!

Hidden 02/Nov/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Gates, Tom Hobley, Sam Tucker
j miller 22/Oct/11 -
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Jon Emmet, Toby
Toby Dunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

possibly the best route on this bit of wall

with Sophie Nunn
Joe Black 10/Oct/11 Lead rpt

First 7a and think i chose a good one really varied and good fun took 3 goes and i was not boring on the last try

with ollie
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very nice - thin but you're always on your feet. Better & easier than Medusa Falls imo.

adlamixion 25/Jul/11 Lead RP

Really enjoyable! Technical and sequency, first hard climb in portland!

with peter
LeahJamie 09/Jul/11 TR

Looking forward to this as a project!

with Ian Bell
Ian Bell 09/Jul/11 Lead RP

First 7a RP

Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
Thinker01 14/May/11 Lead O/S

First 7a! Nice and sustained - interest all the way but no real crux move. Excellent!

with Kev Stott
tom106 06/May/11 Lead β

clips in

with laura
loz901 06/May/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 10/Apr/11 2nd dog


Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Oli 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nearly fell off when I broke a hold...

with Fred
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Evie 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Yann
Bristoldave 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead β
La Mont 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S


dmaldonado 17/Oct/10 2nd dnf
nblackbeard 17/Oct/10 Lead RP

second attempt

Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with pete
dan gibson 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
willbatho 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

This and medusa make a brilliant pair of 7a's - completely different to each other. Really enjoyable delicate climbing (altho my skin was agony on those crimpers). Upper groove gives some proper sweet climbing! but the whole route is brill

with Dunken
mlg678 09/Aug/10 Lead RP
JKay 02/Aug/10 Lead RP
Pete Scott 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S

first 7 onsight in ages, didnt find it pumpy at all but it was already pretty chalked up.

pawelx 13/Jun/10 Lead RP
decs 05/Jun/10 TR dog
with Dave Potter
jh123 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
slav ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Vince 30/May/10 Lead RP
with John Percy
Vince 30/May/10 TR dog
with John Percy
harry40740 26/May/10 Lead dog
jw231 24/May/10 TR RP
brices 23/May/10 Lead RP

should have been onsight fell off on roof at top really ncie route

AlexD 03/May/10 Lead RP
sam_cox 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
timharrison 07/Mar/10 TR dog
Hidden ??/2010 -
ian1234567 ??/2010 -
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
givemetea 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
gejones 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sean
Dan 85 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex B
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rab Carrington
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead β
Stefan Kruger 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Sarah Porter
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
MarkRyder 02/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Ashley
Hidden 26/Jul/09 -
Ed Babs 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Harry
Morgan Woods 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route....didn't feel like having to repeat the bottom thin section so onsight was the way forward.

with David S
eugeneth 21/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Mike Burford
jacobjlloyd 20/Jun/09 Lead β
Owen W-G 20/Jun/09 Lead RP

First ever RP project. Dogged it deliberately to get clips in/suss out the holds and moves then got it on second RP. Successful ascent seemed unlikely but Gav's skillful lead provided the incentive. Never previously climbed anything harder than 6b+, I could get into this sport climbing lark.

with Gav & Si
Jon_Warner 08/Jun/09 TR dog

Very technical but no real stopper moves. Brilliant climbing. One to do.

with Jonny
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead β
Ed Booth 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
LC ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Wilbur 25/May/09 Lead RP

Got it second official RP attempt. Everyone seems to think it's very onsightable which would imply a soft touch, but i think it's pretty middle of the road 7a...

with Caine
onlytovey 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt

much better than medusa falls. a lot more intricate and sustained. should have done this one first

with Hannah Williams
embob 11/Apr/09 2nd dnf

Al did all the moves but took due to rope anxiety :-) Didn't do the last strenuous section.

with Alex
irenemil 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Dany
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
Rob Pitt 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
mark_wellin ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
matt green(uni) ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Mike W 22/Mar/09 Lead RP
JimR 01/Mar/09 -
nealh ??/2009 Lead
w.pettet-smith 29/Dec/08 Lead RP

great route- better than medusa methinks. delicate crux section and nice strenuous jug hauling at top. led clean second attempt.

with josh
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
jfreeman 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
simonr 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 18/Oct/08 Lead RP
garburn 23/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Will Searle
Jonathan Emett 12/Sep/08 TR dog

1 fall

with Matic
Hidden 22/Aug/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Soft 7a

Ben Harper 17/Aug/08 Lead RP
vertigo 17/Aug/08 Lead RP

Cracking route and a nice first 7a. So close to flashing it and was chuffed to get it second go.

with Ben and Dan
feilx 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Mark T
Andrew Barker 15/Aug/08 Lead β

Nicely contrasting sections of climbing.

with Chunk
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with WG
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead dog
schof 23/Jul/08 Lead RP
with jon howell
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
Ian Broome 12/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tanya
Martin Krasnansky 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead β
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Docent 01/Sep/07 Lead β
with pudel
Castleclimber 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Hussain
Richard Horn 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
JPGR 01/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Steve
keefe 31/Mar/07 Lead
with Tansy
DorsetGareth ?/Mar/07 TR β
with Yann
Jus 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
bigie bob 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Jake Shaw ??/2004 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/03 Lead dog
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
John Southworth 04/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Galley
Hidden 01/Apr/99 2nd
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1997 2nd

Approx date

lost.arrow 06/Apr/96 Lead
with Iain Kerr
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/95 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mrduk, Hidden, max_dickens, Neil_M_L, pete_naylor, najki_2000, GeneralFifi, Hidden, db79, AlexBush, chris_woodsy, Hidden, rwestcott, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mop449, mrmattwright, Hidden, Tru, Hidden, Hidden, Julia Chatterton, alexanderjwatts, Mike Green, bikeguerra, Joe Black, Seb2007, PowerPigtails, Ade7, cmb621, iceaxejuggler, AndyM-LVB, ian caton, Siderunner, Hidden, Robin Head, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JonBrown, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, J/mie
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 102
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set