Rockfax Description
The soaring groove on the left-hand side of the wall is a fine line, although the groove itself is relatively easy. Move up with difficulty to the groove proper and continue up it more easily. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.88. The first ‘modern' route on Portland. 08/Aug/1988

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland.

Hidden 29/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
Chris Redding 20/Jul Lead O/S

Bit run out in places, keep calm and steady and it's fine.

with Dan Hobbs, Boulders Crew
La Mont 06/Jul Lead rpt
with Abi
Pete Scott 05/Jul Lead RP
afterthesend 02/Jul Lead RP

First attempt since failing miserably in the first few metres years ago. Climbed 'Into the Groove' just before this'un so knew the top section.

samparsons 21/Jun Lead RP

Great climb.

dbrooks 27/May Lead dog

Couldn't find a simple way through the crux, found it hard!

with Stu
Nick Russell 16/Apr Lead RP

Finally done, a bit of unfinished business ticked off! Excellent way to finish the day in the low evening sun.

Hidden ??/2016 -
JackMac 25/Oct/15 Lead dog

One to come back for.

with James
lawsy_boy1 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Matt.c.Warner 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Emily
richiebongo 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
hankyc 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

really hard start, probably because it was super greasy, unbalanced route

ThomasB ?/Aug/15 Lead β


Rockmonkey1977 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

First few moves felt harder than anything on Super fly guy to me but lots of the holds were very greasey which probably explains why...

Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/15 -
afrosam 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 30/May/15 2nd
ASchwirtz 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
richardashe 18/Apr/15 2nd
Dean177 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead
Fraser hill-casey ?/Apr/15 -
professorcobra 14/Feb/15 Lead RP
Fraser hill-casey ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Martin Bagshaw 03/Aug/14 Lead dog

Rested on 2nd and 3rd clip. Did not feel like risking swinging into Ed on his first outdoor trip.

with Ed Green
Nick Russell 12/Jul/14 Lead dog

Greased off the crux first time. Climbed through it and to the top from bolt 2. Probably fair for the grade, but hard to onsight.

drewish 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
samparsons 25/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Working this route, as it looks so great.

drcorbasisgod 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 TR RP
AlexD 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead RP
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead RP
richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead dog

Was too tired to do clean. Hard enough little sequence to it especially on slightly greasy holds but will definitely return to get it clean!

jonleighton 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

Got through the crux and then slipped off a greasy hold before the massive jug... annoying. Great climbing in the groove though.

philhaigh 02/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
nath_casper 21/Jul/13 Lead RP
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Billg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
Adam Booth 25/May/13 Lead O/S
littleluke 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
Nick Russell 01/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Had a few goes at the low crux. I think l I figured it out now, but was too tired to continue

Thinker01 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

Seemed really hard to on-site. A couple of goes gets the beta but so pumped afterwards that there was no point having another bash...

with Kev Stott
Sparky!!!3 26/Aug/12 TR dog
with alex more
Alex More 25/Aug/12 Lead RP

6c in condition much harder if greasey

with Ed babs, Sparky
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
PeterDawson 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Evie 21/Jul/12 Lead β
jiggerypokery 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Joe Day
dan gibson 19/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
John Mcshea 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Prajak
quiffhanger 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

V nice after but was somewhat lucky to lank the start a little (if this is the route I think it is).

dannyboy83 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Martyn
katiep 14/Mar/12 TR dnf
with Tom Taylor
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead dog
matt perks ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead RP
with James Kingswood
Sophie Nunn 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Alex
Toby Dunn 23/Oct/11 Lead
with Jon Emmet
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Misha 10/Jul/11 Lead dog

Misread the crux and fell off. Got the right sequence second go but fell off because when I got a good handhold it turned out to be damp. Got it third go by using a different handhold. The jug was damp, as were the crimps above - plenty of chalk was used. At least the beautiful groove above was dry. Ian and Mike opted not to do it and we decamped to Battleship in search of drier rock.

with Mike T, Ian W
Brian H 03/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Too hot.

Luke Dawson ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR dnf
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
La benya 31/Jul/10 Lead RP

2nd go after working out not to blindly follow chalk. very very good

Ceridwen 18/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Andy
trev_f 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2010 Lead dog
with jon biddle
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
dan gibson 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with sam read
w.pettet-smith 08/Aug/09 -

1st redpoint after trying to dyno the lower section on the onsight! upper groove sustained and immaculate.

with josh and steve
gejones 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
Glyn 07/Jun/09 Lead β

Really good!

Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
Ed Booth 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Andy Long
Ed Babs 24/May/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Jane Weir ??/2009 -
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 03/Sep/08 Lead rpt

hand popped of damp lower hold on onsight attempt

dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
feilx 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
JPGR 10/May/08 Lead
with Steve
robyn1 ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Jus ??/2007 Lead O/S
bigie bob 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 TR O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 03/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead O/S

Onsight. Absolute walk.

with James Dunlop, Jimbo, John Pullin
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with .
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Jason Lloyd
Steve Crowe 18/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
phardman 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 19/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Jun/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Roget 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
ukb shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
23 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set