Rockfax Description
The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Portland Unwishlist.

elfka 04/Oct Lead
with Camille King
Hidden 27/Sep Lead G/U
smollett 30/Aug Lead
Ed Houghton 08/Aug Lead RP
Tithe Technique 08/Jul 2nd dog
charley 08/Jul Lead O/S

Not the best choice for a warm up. The guide said to stick right of the bolts but I pretty much went up the middle. Polished, not very enjoyable and harder than the 6b next to it.. Only just got the O/S, my foot popped off just after the crux but luckily was on the good hold by then..

with Kev
Valentino 29/Jun TR RP
with Jay
simonsnake77 22/Jun Lead G/U

Had a major fall from the fourth bolt! Led with left hand to gain the shelf and then promptly bombed off with slack in my hand whilst clipping, fell 3-4m and twisted my ankle. Had to take a moment whilst the pain subsided before doing it clean from the ground up.

royle883 19/Jun Lead dnf

failed at the crux move

Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun Lead dog
Adam Perrett 09/May Lead
with Simon Fowler, Paulus122, Mick Ward, Andy Dunford, Sarah Perrett
Hidden ?/May Lead
harty92 05/Apr Lead dog
RebekkaB 04/Apr TR dog
John Harrison 21/Mar AltLd dog

Hard, not nice, alternated onto hamburger disaster to finish route,

leggsimon 01/Mar Lead dnf

Reached 2nd bolt

Hidden 08/Feb AltLd O/S
Marcus 08/Feb AltLd
knighty 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing.

Chris dyer 02/Sep/14 2nd RP
with Ash Murrell, Jack Hunter, Jodie pointer
Joe W-O 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Douglas ?/Jul/14 -
with Martin Smith
Kap 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 26/Jun/14 Lead
max_dickens 25/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Robin Brooke ?/Jun/14 Lead
LJC 18/May/14 Lead

Pretty crap route really. Some broken holds and probably harder than 6a.

with Phill, Little Ben, Tom
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead dnf
Lazytraveller 04/May/14 Lead
RichyBOYY 04/May/14 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 30/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Theodorus2 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Slick 29/Mar/14 Lead dog
Egons Issy 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
jtree03 21/Mar/14 Lead
with Paul C
Semtex 16/Mar/14 TR RP
with Ben
Ross.Cooper 08/Mar/14 Lead dog


henry.jeffreys 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with UBMC
raymondlinklater 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
yarrow 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Becky P
HazelMacLean 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with UBMC, Sting Ray
davemcummings 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Very tricky section to gain 3rd bolt. ended up left of bolts.

adamraymondwhite ?/Mar/14 2nd
with henry jefferys, jonny
kieranbowen 22/Feb/14 TR dnf

Did it with the left crack but think its cheating

with Ruth
Ruth Sankey 21/Feb/14 TR dnf

Not sure what area was in. If repeat, go right of bolts.

Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead dnf
AaronBosley ??/2014 Lead
dprctr 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Bloody horrible, and hard.

with Patrick
Wayne.Gaudin 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Janice
dom94 10/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Sam Huguet
LauraTejada ?/Sep/13 AltLd
tomB 31/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Juliette
Senna 25/Aug/13 Lead dog

2 falls in the middle section

Chomp 24/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Half way up way too polished to proceed :(

dereke12000 04/Aug/13 Lead dnf


with Rob
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Horrible. Very polished. Nothing nice about it at all!

with Kate Tarrant
Chomp 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Left the rope up for Laura and Jo to top rope Little Chef

JUSTADUDE 18/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Just didn't have a chance. Last climb of the day, expecting a nice 6a, it clearly wasnt, well under-graded route, no holds once on the 3rd bolt. Where do you go!?

with longol
alice_loudon 13/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Geoff
robbo99 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

harder than Little Sod adjacent

Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jack93 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dog
anthonylewis 18/May/13 Lead O/S
ico 18/May/13 Lead dog
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
the ant hill mob 01/May/13 TR O/S
ColinVern 01/May/13 TR dog
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
professorcobra 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Christina, Anna, Sabine Wilkins
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead dog
Laurence Everitt 30/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Stroppy 18/Mar/13 Lead O/S
tombushell 18/Mar/13 Lead
with Ed
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead
sonic46 01/Jan/13 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2013 -
mattc 09/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Si
Didymus 27/Oct/12 Lead RP

Expecting a F6a. Quite surprised when I fell off!

with Dan
danp 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Jobbo 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
will_benfold 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Paulshipman 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ayumi Gallagher
Psych ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/12 TR dog
Dax 05/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took a good while to figure out the crux.

with RhysP
gg4419 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead dog
saalty 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Andy S, Lynsey, Terri, eddy, colin
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Alex Norman 18/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Vespa63 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
srowlandx11 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
colkurtz 27/May/12 2nd
with Karin
oddessy_uk 26/May/12 Lead O/S
munch88 20/May/12 Lead dog

fell at crux then did second time

with rob
afrosam 15/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead RP
RioVista23 14/Apr/12 Lead dog

Took some working out for the crux. two attempts each between Alistair and me

with Alistair Baxter
Marcin78 10/Apr/12 Lead β
with Basia
jez_palmer 25/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 18/Mar/12 TR dnf
TiffTiff 19/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Phil
ewanthomson 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 Lead β
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 TR dnf
ChrisBrooke 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mattc 02/Oct/11 Lead rpt
marcb 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mattc 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
Gazleah 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with joey gilham
mrmoe17 08/Sep/11 2nd O/S
wild_nomad 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Did it clean onsite, but damn hard. 6a in Rockfax, 6a+ on this website - I've done 6b's in this area that are easier! Very delicate move on the crux. I did this route going right of the bolts and avoiding 'Little Chief' as shown in Rockfax.

with Paul Day, Kevin
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
Mongoose 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't clip the 3rd (?) bolt. Got frustrated and quit!

tim.fairhall 20/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Hui
gibsond 08/Aug/11 Lead RP

The description says easy to right of bolts, but I can not see how you to do it this way. Went straight up using holds either side of bolts, body slightly on left of bolts. Got it clean on third attempt.

Robin Brooke ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/11 Lead dnf
grakgrak 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with nicktong, duncan
Tadams 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gianpaolo 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Sarah
Gecko2k 03/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Martyn Brown, Adam Olive, Ola Bartkowska
danfunkman 25/May/11 Lead
Shua1990 25/May/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with John Andrews, Richard Vaughan, Sarah Pentelow
Dave89 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with Fat Al
ian d f 07/May/11 Lead β
with Joe Kinsella
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
antdav 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Wayne
mattc 20/Apr/11 -
jon_ridley 16/Apr/11 Lead dnf

got pumped and gave up

hfac 16/Apr/11 Lead dnf

got pumped, gave up, will try again when revisiting.

31770 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 16/Apr/11 Lead
loz901 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kyle F 05/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Keiha D
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jim Gaffney 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with George Swadling
mikespooner 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Keith Jackson
Will Fuller 12/Mar/11 TR dog
with Kieth Jackson
Sami Mandeel 20/Jan/11 Lead RP

Gutted - went to the left and spent about 5 minutes trying to figure out what to do. Then tried going more to the right and using the bulgy thing as an undercut. Lovely sequence once it was cracked - 6a when you know how.

with Shamina, Col Dawg
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead rpt
nick jeans ??/2011 Lead
Boogs ??/2011 Lead β
barfani chita 21/Nov/10 Lead dnf

Last route of the day and got lost!!!! So bummed, ended up traversing across to Little Chef. Bit slippery from the rain in the week, so guess I have an excuse.

mattshort 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead RP
Danhan 23/Oct/10 Lead dog

So annoyed I messed this up. Started pissing it down half way up.

tcn_2002 23/Oct/10 Lead
mlg678 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 05/Oct/10 Lead dnf

I think I attempted this with too narrow a blinker.

lewiz 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
Qisheng Xie 20/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
gibsond 18/Aug/10 Lead dog

Having dogged my way past the crux I still can not see how to do this clean. Must be something I am missing, but I can't see what. Will be a new project.

with Steve Newman
chiverstom 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Alice
Tom Seccombe 17/Jun/10 Lead dog
Tj murray 17/Jun/10 Lead dog
Rhys Jones 05/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
SamuelHarris 15/May/10 Lead dog

Fell just before the last bolt.

LoopyLou ?/May/10 Lead O/S


with Thea Williams, Helen Lear
benwhit ?/May/10 Lead
sammycolon 18/Apr/10 Lead β
Danny Crump 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
J.Atkins ?/Apr/10 Lead
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mynameisjen 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jack Lawson
Hidden 13/Mar/10 TR O/S
benthfc ?/Mar/10 Lead β
with Tim
sweenyt 20/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Took a massive fall, having missed the 3rd bolt, buggered my foot.

with UBMC
catemuir 20/Feb/10 TR
with John Murphy
El3ctroFuzz 30/Jan/10 Lead dog


with Elaine Budden
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
nick jeans ??/2010 Lead
with tony adshead
Big Steve C 18/Oct/09 Lead
with Sammi
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR
nath_casper 10/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead
Ceridwen 06/Sep/09 Lead dog

Horrible climb, polished and dirty.... yuch!

with Simon
JonBrown 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
eastley 06/Sep/09 Lead
Tony Adshead 30/Aug/09 TR O/S
thelizard 30/Aug/09 Lead β
with Jude Adshead, Nathan adshead, Tony Adshead
ptcmbk 28/Aug/09 2nd
mr_cf 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
AlexDexter 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with sophie heavey
Dan Lane 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S

First 6A on Portland, very good moves.

with Dad
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Simon Bowyer 13/Jun/09 Lead β
with Lydia
olmo 06/Jun/09 -
with Johannes
clgladiator 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ducky
djking1983 26/May/09 Lead
tom169 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Hannah
markfairbank 24/May/09 Lead dnf

First route of the day and never really got going on this 1, pretty hot but seemed dam hard.

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 24/May/09 TR rpt

Previously completed onsight but with clipping the bolt of the adjacent route. Repeated on top-rope cleanly; felt hard in the heat.

with Mark Fairbank
tew105 07/May/09 TR rpt
with Jhonny Harris
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead
hannahi 07/Apr/09 2nd dog
gav 05/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Anthony Allsopp 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Conheeney
philhaigh ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Crossley, Natalie Haigh
El3ctroFuzz 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Adam West
tdudley 28/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
wilchivs 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Louise Ramsden
LardClimber 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Gawthrop
TiffTiff 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Tracey, Tom
tbs105 24/Jan/09 2nd dog

Nice sequence when I found it.

with Tracy
ArranR ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
thompson1000 ??/2009 -
mark_wellin ??/2009 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
hrgcb ??/2009 Lead
with Joe Prinold
A-dog ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
hutchay ??/2009 Lead O/S
Pryan ??/2009 Lead
cymjt ??/2009 -
bbrowne 12/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Rich Mayfield
james.f.williamson 15/Nov/08 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Nov/08 Lead dog
Adam Billing 02/Nov/08 Lead
with Tom
Hidden 02/Nov/08 Lead
Steve954 25/Oct/08 TR dnf

Failed at the crux

with Andy, Rich
00nip 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with David Clarke
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead dnf
nblackbeard 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Definitely Maybe Not!!!

with Tom Grant
Rollo 28/Sep/08 AltLd dog

Stupid route; was 5+ in our (old) book but fully deserving of 6a+ if taken direct(ish). Climbed by committee!

with Kit
bpmclimb 29/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Friction not good today, and this felt hard for the grade.

with Clare
Hidden 06/Aug/08 TR dog
cherad 06/Aug/08 Lead O/S
FrostyWebb 02/Aug/08 Lead dog

Happy to have achieved another 6a however didnt partically enjoy the route because the head wall was very hard and polished.

with Ricky
shepman 26/Jul/08 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
budoghost 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 22/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with andy
leemaybr05 20/Jun/08 TR RP

very polished under foot at the crux

with Dee
Hidden 17/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
98%monkey 14/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Climbed the face of this wall rather than either of the 2 sides, quite hard this way.

with Flatcap
flatcap 14/Jun/08 Lead dnf

It starts OK, but quickly becomes horrid. Not one I want to try again.

with Phil
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Dan Wicks
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 Lead

on uea club trip. found the crux quite hard, ended up popping for a jug. got pissed off with claire for chatting to neighbours.

with claire jane carter
nadeem ?/Jun/08 Lead
joshwales ?/May/08 Lead rpt
98%monkey 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Katerina
Hidden 14/Apr/08 Lead RP
alexsharp 10/Apr/08 2nd β
with Steve Beckwith
theone 10/Apr/08 Lead
with bryan
Hidden 06/Apr/08 TR
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead
climbingrev 04/Feb/08 TR dog

I'm getting very close to this grade on Portland. Challenging and balancey. But a great climb - wish I was 6' though!

bpmclimb 28/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 -
rhino_bill 30/Dec/07 Lead RP
vertigo 30/Dec/07 Lead RP
rhino_bill 29/Dec/07 Lead dog
chrisrogers 27/Dec/07 Lead dog
with Nic C
Hidden 27/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 24/Dec/07 Lead rpt
with Peter Weston
Hidden 01/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/07 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf
with Peter Weston
jchenoweth 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Alfie
martin one 11/Aug/07 TR dnf
with Sue
Wayne.Gaudin 09/Aug/07 TR dog

I only found this to have one tricky move, but that is pretty hard and if leading it the move is some way above the bolt. Will try and lead next time.

with David Turland, Phil Renwick
Hidden 09/Aug/07 -
Herron 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
hippo99 ?/Jun/07 Lead RP

stupid polised shit

BennyBoy ?/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Dylan Burgess
AsleepOnBelay 06/May/07 TR dog

Straight up, fell at the crux (undercling near top). Got it next time, and then redid it completely differently! :)

with Sarah Davis
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
petebale2000 21/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Rob Laird 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
eppa 14/Apr/07 Lead dnf

backed off before the upper crack

toasted 24/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Paul Greenhow
tradguy 16/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Pete and Lee
tobydunford 03/Feb/07 Lead RP
jchenoweth 01/Feb/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Scott N ??/2007 -
sam_cox ??/2007 Lead
Monk 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with RUMC
trevor macalonan 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead
jonnyboy 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 05/Sep/06 2nd dog
with Jonny
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Sandy Holford ?/Sep/06 Lead
chris sm 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
dobby 200 20/Aug/06 Lead rpt
guyblackwood 06/Aug/06 Lead dog

tough move after the overlap

with David, Ricardo, Olga
Greg Pittam ?/Aug/06 Lead
Chris Sansum 22/Jul/06 TR dog
with Darren Garlish
endless winter 15/Jul/06 Lead
with Blane
jonathan watt 15/Jul/06 Lead
upontop ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
maddogmac 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with munky
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead RP
Stuart Johnston ?/May/06 Lead O/S
JPGR 23/Apr/06 Lead
with Ickshi
AR ?/Jan/06 2nd
with Colin
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Philip de-Beger ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Lloyders ??/2006 Lead rpt
Phil PBC ??/2006 -
Dr Avid ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
sasmojo ?/Sep/05 Lead dog
with kate farley
Rokmunky ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Rob in a Field ?/Apr/05 Lead
mikeyjbs 15/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with paul callander, wilko, sven hassle, will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
PWEI_fan ??/2005 -
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Lead O/S
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Oli ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Gemma Paterson/Ian Killey
homing-penguin 09/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 29/May/04 -
jl 07/Apr/04 Lead
with Rachel
Bruce Kerr 18/Feb/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
chris murnin 18/Sep/03 Lead
timharrison ?/Mar/03 Lead
sam coward ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Helen
Richard Horn ??/2003 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz ??/2003 Lead O/S
mikeshewring ??/2003 Lead
furry 06/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Phil B
furry 06/Oct/02 TR
with Phil B
aged_ape ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Ian G
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 23/Apr/02 Lead O/S
jonberry791 ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/01 Lead O/S
climbingrev 23/Oct/01 Lead dog

Nice sequence of tricky moves up quite a steep slab, with a wall on your right. 5B to BB. Lots of rests (at least 3). Overhang with slopey undercut. Probably went too far left for genuine lead claim. On 1st lead attempt (on route proper), On passing crux (having done it!) slipped, twisting / spraining ankle as I hit the wall. Crux gives good name to climb.

rrrock! ?/Jun/01 2nd
lost.arrow 28/May/01 Lead
with Paul Palfreyman
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
FrankW 04/Nov/00 Lead rpt
with Rob K
FrankW 24/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Joe
gripped01 ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 26/Oct/98 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
simon kimber ??/1996 Lead
simon kimber ??/1996 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WilliamD, Sebastien Gastaud, Jeremy Crampin, nublet, Hidden
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set