Rockfax Description
The overhang-dotted corner is an excellent route with both technical and strenuous climbing. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 24.3.91 24/Mar/1991

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland.

tonevert 06/Aug Lead dog
with Paloma
Adam Willison 13/Jul Lead

3rd go. Amazing route

td72 10/Jul Lead RP

great climb, worked it a few times the day before then got it on the first tie in today. hard in the grade!

with katie93, bryan stevens
ThomasB 30/Apr Lead RP


MichaelGallimore 30/Apr Lead dnf

3rd day on, got past the first groove but struggled on the headwall above. Wow how strenuous.

with Flavio
Hidden 24/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 16/Apr Lead dog
ASchwirtz 19/Mar Lead dnf

stopped by the roof.

i_a_coops 13/Mar Lead RP
blaza1 27/Feb Lead dnf


tobydunford 23/Jan Lead dnf
with Kirsty Kerr
Albachoss 16/Jan Lead RP
with Ben
chris_woodsy 10/Jan Lead RP

Finally! Took a bit of work. Brilliant climb.

with Widdaz
jacobjlloyd 19/Dec/15 Lead RP

Yes! I never have to try it again! Not as good as I had been led to believe. And it took me more goes than any other route, ever.

nimajneb 19/Dec/15 Lead RP
Albachoss 12/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Sustained and technical, great route and making progress

with Jake, Andrea
BenL 28/Nov/15 Lead RP
with Andrea, Alex Banks
burto 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with ferdia
ferdia 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with Hertha, Burton
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul/15 Lead dnf
dswansonlow 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Alex Banks
philhaigh 07/Jul/15 2nd dog

Want out work out

with Hely
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead RP
Ed Babs 30/Apr/15 Lead RP

Really good. Precision required.

with Marcus O
innes 05/Apr/15 Lead RP

Techy! Great moves. Worth 7b+ IMO.

with Ruth
RFWilkie 04/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
oliver.ghill91 11/Sep/14 Lead dog
Graham Westbrook 10/Sep/14 Lead RP

3rd go. Great sequence! Hard 7b

Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 30/Aug/14 TR dog

Ahh heck. Couldn't touch it. Not for me!

with Jonny
Garrouli 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Ioanna
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd dnf
lewiz 24/May/14 Lead dog
3 Names 23/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Mar/14 TR dnf
Coops_13 08/Mar/14 Lead dog

Hard and a bit wet

Luxulyan 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf
with Tim
tim.fairhall 16/Feb/14 Lead dog
with Richard
Ed Booth 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Hard to on sight on this wall!!

anguskille 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go, great moves

Luxulyan 07/Dec/13 Lead dnf
with Tom Murrell
lewiz 15/Sep/13 Lead dog

Only one rest. Nice I can remember most of the moves :-)

Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
lewiz 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Chapter closed: hardest line to date. Had all the moves dialled but was still surprised when I pulled over the top. Really great sequence and moves, very enjoyable, hard climbing. ***

with Endre Joachim Mossige
lewiz 25/Jul/13 Lead dog

Two falls trying to do the roof. Big progress. It should go soon.

with Endre Joachim Mossige
jonleighton 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Fantastic route, unfortunately I powered out before I could make the redpoint. One for next time...

lewiz 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
natalietanzer 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go,great bridgy route

with tom, will
thomasmouse 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
with natalietanzer
wi11 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
lewiz 15/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got my sequence through the crux perfect first try (warm-up) but couldn't repeat it. Wasn't in the game mentally.

with Tom Stone
Wayne.Gaudin 03/Jun/13 TR dog

Clipped sticked up and tried it twice. Hard move to side pull then hard move to left pinch. Done on a tight rope. Top was ok, it seems you can go left, right of straight over. It is a great route. Take a while to go.

with Janice
billb ?/Jun/13 Lead

Very sequency and hard but main difficulties are short lived. Great route

lewiz 12/May/13 Lead dog

Think I've found my 2013 project :)

tonevert 10/May/13 Lead dog


Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead dnf
Adam Booth 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

3rd RP over 2 days. Awesome climb but felt pretty tough for 7b. So many different ways of doing every section! Eventually picked the right combination!

Adam Booth 19/Oct/12 Lead dog

1 go on TR trying to figure out the moves then 1 RP, then started raining :-( Account open...

Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Marcus 16/Sep/12 Lead
Ali 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
3 Names 06/Sep/12 TR dog

quick look at the moves

with Nick
Tangerine_Kingdom 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Witold
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR dnf
rustaldo 20/Jul/12 Lead dog

tough route, not too strenuous but lots of technical bridging. had a guidebook fail and took the top roof direct which was hard and very blind. definite kudos to any OS accents, v hard to read first go. looking forward to trying it again.

Hidden 08/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jun/12 TR RP
givemetea 26/May/12 TR dog

Tried 5 times over sat/sun and made progress each time. Have a continuous sequence now.

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
Spacetourist 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Si Brice
brices 07/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Dan_Carroll 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Mateusz
drysori ?/Nov/11 Lead dog
Kevster 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
dale1968 21/Oct/11 TR dnf
with Tom
Hidden 21/Oct/11 Lead RP
willbatho 21/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with toby
quiffhanger 21/Aug/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Really good. Not that sutained imo but the crux section is bouldery with awesome 3D moves. Warm the hips up first.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Chris Rooke, Harry Massey
Mike_Hayes 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Kevster 21/May/11 Lead dog

Still eludes me.

Hidden 06/Feb/11 TR dnf
jgustafsson ?/Sep/10 Lead RP

Much trouble linking the crux; went away for 4 month and came back and did first go, having put draws in on abseil. getting stronger? I adore this route.

with Pino
Dandan82 18/Jul/10 Lead RP

Great route, with some cool moves, leave some energy to drag yourself over the roof at the top though!

with Chris
Kevster 18/Jul/10 Lead

Not clean.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Jul/10 TR dog
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead RP
La benya 28/May/10 Lead dog


marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead RP
with huw
Linc ?/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
jacobjacob 14/Feb/10 Lead RP
timharrison 31/Jan/10 TR dnf
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 23/Jan/10 Lead dnf

bloody hell. used up my pultry power reserves working out what the flippin heck to do on the crux. suffice to say, i found it quite hard.

with steve
pezzerrr 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead dog
Marti999 05/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead RP
hippo99 04/Jan/09 Lead RP
with sam cox, louis bosence
sam_cox ?/Jan/09 Lead
rubben ??/2009 Lead dnf

Could not do?!?

Richard Horn 09/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead RP
John Southworth ??/2008 -
feilx 01/Dec/07 Lead RP
dannyboy83 25/Nov/07 Lead RP
Tony Little 22/Oct/07 Lead RP
with Claire
Martin Krasnansky 06/Aug/07 Lead RP
lukea ?/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Olaf
lukea 14/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Olaf
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 21/Aug/06 Lead RP
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Jon Read ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S

I certainly wanted out at the top of that groove. Bleg: too many moves!

with Tanya Holdsworth
Hidden 20/Jul/96 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dale Turrell, paultaylor, Dan_F, Bernie L, George76, _m.cox_, Hidden, lawsy_boy1, jelaby, samparsons, Oliver Tilbury, Sandy1, Oddjob, RFWilkie, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Goonie, lukea, guyblackwood
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set