40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Hidden 20/Sep AltLd O/S
andycash 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Daryl nayler
Hidden 03/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb Lead rpt
elliptic 25/Jan AltLd
with Tom R.
Dave Thompson 10/Sep/14 Lead
with Mark Lee
rd20 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mick1jones 05/Oct/13 AltLd dog

Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start

with Rich Rogers
Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead
Julian Prieto 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with John Knight, Alan Blanchflower
Monkey_Alan 01/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!

with John Knight, Julian Prieto
Dan Hostford 25/May/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
louby 22/Sep/12 2nd

Big move off the belay took a few goes

chris_B 22/Sep/12 Lead
tobydunford 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead
nigel pearson 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts

with Robin
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.

Monkey_Alan 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!

Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dickie01 31/Jul/11 AltLd
with Joe Heasman
clipskipper 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)

with Paul Davis
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Ceridwen 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!

Sophie Nunn 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Bern 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

In one pitch. The start of P2 into the hanging corner is 5b.

with Andy Mos
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ed Babs 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

in one pitch - great move off ledge

with Trevor
trev_f 07/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
Richard Horn 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Mr Tickle 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.

with davenev
davenev 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Scary leaving the ledge!!!

with luke
maresia 13/Sep/08 2nd dog

The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.

with Rob Scheichl
Different Steve 13/Sep/08 AltLd rpt

Led P1

with Simon Chandler
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.

with Ned
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
brian watson ??/2007 Lead O/S
with scott titt
mike.moss ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!

with Darren Lambert
twodada 05/Aug/06 Lead dog

only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.

with Ion
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
timharrison 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 05/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
cem 11/Nov/01 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Ian Folcard
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 AltLd

went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake

with Roland, Roger
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
MoWalker3 26/Sep/93 AltLd
with Joe
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Oct/89 AltLd
with dave kilburn
Nigel Coe 12/Sep/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Falko 30/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 29/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, mattprince, lukerathmell, Andy Chubb, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 24
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