A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start
|Julian Prieto||01/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
John Knight, Alan Blanchflower
Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!
John Knight, Julian Prieto
|Dan Hostford||25/May/13||Lead O/S|
Big move off the belay took a few goes
|nigel pearson||18/Dec/11||Lead O/S||
I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts
|Dave Mahon||?/Oct/11||AltLd O/S||
The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.
Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!
Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)
Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!
|Sophie Nunn||12/Sep/09||AltLd O/S|
In one pitch. The start of P2 into the hanging corner is 5b.
|Ed Babs||07/Dec/08||Lead O/S||
in one pitch - great move off ledge
|Richard Horn||27/Sep/08||AltLd O/S|
|Mr Tickle||20/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.
Scary leaving the ledge!!!
The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.
|Different Steve||13/Sep/08||AltLd rpt||
|Owen W-G||08/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.
|brian watson||??/2007||Lead O/S||
|Different Steve||25/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!
only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.
|bigie bob||?/Jul/05||Lead O/S|
went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake
|William Robertson||??/1995||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc