Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
The Golden Fleece** HVS 5a

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40m, 2 pitches. A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line. 2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

rhys.nadin - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Richard Nadin and Ian Butterworth

Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start
mick1jones - AltLd dog - 05/Oct/13 with Rich Rogers

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/13

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with John Knight, Alan Blanchflower

Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/13 with John Knight, Julian Prieto

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Big move off the belay took a few goes
louby - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Chris Burn

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/12

I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Robin

The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Oct/11 with Matt Jackson

Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11

dickie01 - AltLd - 31/Jul/11 with Joe Heasman

Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Paul Davis

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/10

Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Aug/09

In one pitch. The start of P2 into the hanging corner is 5b.
Bern - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Andy Mos

Hidden - 2009

in one pitch - great move off ledge
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Trevor

trev_f - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Ed

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Jane Weir - AltLd - 27/Sep/08 with Rich

Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with davenev

Scary leaving the ledge!!!
davenev - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with luke

The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.
maresia - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/08 with Rob Scheichl

Led P1
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 13/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07

Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Ned

Rob Kennard - 2007

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2007 with scott titt

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2007

Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with Darren Lambert

only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.
twodada - Lead dog - 05/Aug/06 with Ion

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Jul/05

feilx - 2005

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Matt Perks

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/03

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/01 with Ian Folcard

Hidden - Lead - 2000

went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake
kp64zl - AltLd - Oct/97 with Roland, Roger

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 26/Sep/93 with Joe

jasper11 - 1990

steve taylor - AltLd - Oct/89 with dave kilburn

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 12/Sep/82 with Tim Dunsby

Falko - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/77 with Howard Lancashire

Falko - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/77 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lukerathmell, Andy Chubb, benny b, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E18 of 22
hard HVS11 of 22
HVS3 of 22
easy HVS0 of 22
hard VS0 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b6 of 21
hard 5a13 of 21
5a2 of 21
easy 5a0 of 21
hard 4c0 of 21
4c0 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
3 Stars2 of 18
2 Stars16 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead18 of 56 (32.1%)
Followed5 of 56 (8.9%)
Alt Leads26 of 56 (46.4%)
Unknown7 of 56 (12.5%)

'Climbed'20 of 56 (35.7%)
clean O/S30 of 56 (53.6%)
clean rpt3 of 56 (5.4%)
dogged3 of 56 (5.4%)