40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd O/S
andycash 08/Aug Lead O/S
Daryl nayler
Hidden 03/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb Lead rpt
elliptic 25/Jan AltLd
Tom R.
Dave Thompson 10/Sep/14 Lead
Mark Lee
rd20 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mick1jones 05/Oct/13 AltLd dog

Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start

Rich Rogers
Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead
Julian Prieto 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

John Knight, Alan Blanchflower
Monkey_Alan 01/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!

John Knight, Julian Prieto
Dan Hostford 25/May/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
louby 22/Sep/12 2nd

Big move off the belay took a few goes

tobydunford 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead
nigel pearson 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts

Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.

Monkey_Alan 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!

Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dickie01 31/Jul/11 AltLd
Joe Heasman
clipskipper 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)

Paul Davis
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Ceridwen 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!

Sophie Nunn 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Bern 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

In one pitch. The start of P2 into the hanging corner is 5b.

Andy Mos
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ed Babs 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

in one pitch - great move off ledge

trev_f 07/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Richard Horn 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Mr Tickle 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.

davenev 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Scary leaving the ledge!!!

maresia 13/Sep/08 2nd dog

The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.

Rob Scheichl
Different Steve 13/Sep/08 AltLd rpt

Led P1

Simon Chandler
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
brian watson ??/2007 Lead O/S
scott titt
mike.moss ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!

Darren Lambert
twodada 05/Aug/06 Lead dog

only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.

Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
timharrison 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 05/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
cem 11/Nov/01 AltLd O/S

Led p1

Ian Folcard
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 AltLd

went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake

Roland, Roger
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
MoWalker3 26/Sep/93 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Oct/89 AltLd
dave kilburn
Nigel Coe 12/Sep/82 AltLd
Tim Dunsby
Falko 30/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
Howard Lancashire
Falko 29/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
Howard Lancashire
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set