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Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >

Elysium

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Lightning Wall

The Adventures of Portland Bill >>

38m. A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.1.68 07/Jan/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Elysium © Tobes
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 173 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

Good lead from Rog. I found the moves around the pegs tricky and getting the blasted thread out!
Edward Hastrop - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke

Roger Kirke - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop

well protected and sustained.
nigel pearson - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Robin

Robin UK - Lead - Sep/12

Kevster - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/12

Got a bit too psyched before leading and jittered up the first bit. Settled into the first crux on the lower wall and calmed a bit. Climbed the face after the mid height break, out right, and avoided the thrutchy corner. SO much climbing. So good. Need to get back to Swanage ASAP. Great trip. Thanks Johnny.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Johnny Richard

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12

Hard and awkward around the corner!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Caroline

CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Becca

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Mike

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12

w-watson - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/12

1st trad lead of the year, quite a wake up call!!
cooperman - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Greg Foster

Crux was very greasy and felt 5c
richardr - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Chris Wyatt

Tip: - wait till the sun gets on it before climbing. Good lead by Rich in damp conditions
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with rich

tricky crux on small crimps. the body jam was a very welcome rest. looking forward coming back for the lead
will moy - 2nd - 13/Jun/12 with paul taylor

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12 with Will I Am

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jun/12

iceaxejuggler - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12 with Hugh T

Vince McNally - Lead dog - 19/May/12 with Ed Bulman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12

Chris led.
stuaart - 2nd - 22/Apr/12 with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn

louby - 2nd - 22/Apr/12 with Stuart Reeves, Chris Burn

chris_B - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Staurt Reeves, Lou Atkin

Great to have some nice technical face moves before a hands free rest and a spot of chimneying, jamming and underclings. All withing a few meters! There's solid gear to make it all fun too...
Alan100 - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Alan Murray

LJC - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with ben.richards

First E1 and its been a long time coming! Nice moves up the finger crack, a bit thuggy getting into the first corner, then the rest is sailing on jugs. Pumpy, but good rests when you need them.
ben.richards - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Luca Celano

Simon Allcock - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Wilki

Ciro - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Ramon

Three years after having a bit of a nitemer on this I finally led it. sweet!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Mar/12 with Ted Piper

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/12

Kevster - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Tom Thorne - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Neil Weymouth

Finally... no nesting birds, other climbers on the route, water in the crack, or blood on the initial section! It was a long time coming!
LJC - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Too hot to climb
riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson

Awesom!
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - Oct/11

One of my first extremes - a fantastic, long pitch. Take a full rack!
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - Oct/11 with Matt

jasonpm - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Steve IMC

Different Steve - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11 with Jason

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Beautiful climbing up soapy chalk-slime covered cracks, less chalking up and more wiping hands on trousers, perfect!
quadmyre - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Cherry

First (proper) E1! Took some time working out the crux, but got there eventually!
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Alex Dennis

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/11 with Monkey Alan

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11 with Andy Mosienko

Aaargh! Nightmare of soapy rock & sea mist. Should have known better, but thanks to whoevers left all the jammed wires behind.
annetweddell - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

wi11 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Frank C

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Alex

AlexD - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Sophie

tonanf - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

second time up this, really enjoyed seconding, the upper part of lightning wall is such fun.
middlemarker - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Mike R

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Trev Wilson

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Emmanuel

uncontrollable - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11 with Daj

John Tanner - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Matt Smith

Really annoyed i didn't get it clean, did the traverse (crux?) and then slipped taking out gear. Brilliant route though.
Matt Smith - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/11 with John Tanner

halfwaythere - 2nd - 09/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/10

halfwaythere - 2nd - Nov/10

Great to do this at last! Hurray
middlemarker - Lead - 24/Oct/10 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Dan Metcalfe

cem - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

nordix - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Fell on the crux-finger crack. Would like to do it again clean!
petitflous05 - Lead dog - 13/Jun/10

WalnutHorse - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

brian watson - Lead β - 02/May/10 with scott titt

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - May/10

Bern - 2nd rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Richard White

Spicy move just below the roof but it is well protected.
givemetea - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Louisa

Single hard commiting move (for the short) above the peg on the lower section to reach the fault/break. Good gear.
LoopyLou - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Roslyn

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/09

shark - 2nd - 28/Aug/09 with Ed Southwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

sgl - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Jez

Pretty sustained and full on. Top route though.
jezb1 - 2nd - 30/Jul/09

PilarMartinez - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/09 with TheCherokee

left hand start less well protected than the central crack start that the locals did. caused a bit of rope drag and all.crux sequence very nice.
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with david coley

feilx - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/09 with Angus

mark89 - AltLd - 17/Jun/09

Fell and rested on the crux, which seams a bit reach dependent. So a bit gutted, fantastic climb none the less.
Ceridwen - Lead dog - 06/Jun/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 06/Jun/09

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Pete

timharrison - 2nd rpt - 20/May/09 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/09

I found this pretty full on but absolutely brilliant. Varied, technical move on the crux, burly groove higher up, good gear, good rests, great position and line. Superb.
Bart Shaw - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Mike

danm - 2nd - 04/May/09 with Sion

Bern - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/09 with Richard White

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Mar/09

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Angus

did the crux, made a mistake going round the corner and had to take a rest....gutted! Great climb.
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 14/Feb/09 with davenev

Had to clip a piece of gear to recover a bomber hex placement - otherwise clean. Strenuous sustained climbing
davenev - 2nd - 14/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

DDDD - Lead O/S - 2009

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Adam Thomas

adamscottthomas - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Pete Saunders

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/08

clipskipper - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/08 with Ed Babington

Seconded with Iain Moodie 19 May 2012. I had forgotten how good this is!
Ed Babs - Lead β - 13/Jul/08 with Coz

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 03/May/08 with Rebecca Holland

Tobes - Lead O/S - May/08 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/08

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 11/Feb/08 with eddie church

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Andy N

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07

Katex - 2nd - 09/Aug/07 with Dan

tonanf - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with rich

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 04/May/07 with Guy Reid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Brilliant climbing, never too steep
DrGav - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Andrey

Excellent route, well worth three stars - finger crack section fine and well protected, the cruxy bit is the higher run out wall to gain the groove and the easier upper wall.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

chrisbevins - 2007

timharrison - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/06 with Suse

Top route!
Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/06 with Jen Towill

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06

Brilliant
Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

timharrison - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Tim

timharrison - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Mike Clifford

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/06 with jamie evans