Rockfax Description
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.1.68 07/Jan/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Martin Bagshaw 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
cem 20/Sep Lead rpt
kenneM 21/Aug 2nd
with Chris
tim.fairhall 18/Aug 2nd rpt
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 18/Aug Lead O/S

Brilliant route with two contrasting crux sections (thin crimps up to the main roof, and then hard off-balance moves getting around the corner). Well protected but a few of my cams walked a bit due to rope drag, a reminder not to get complacent from Tim was well received!

with Tim
BenL 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Andrea
Andrew Sloan 01/Aug Lead O/S

A bit greasy where it mattered i.e. getting past the peg.

with Tim
Hidden ?/Aug Lead dog
LJC 25/Jul 2nd rpt
with Greg
AJM 28/Jun 2nd β
with Gregor McCombie, Tom Lambert
Tubs 28/Jun Lead dog

Greasy mess under the roof so rested on the peg to dry holds. Nice climbing, but a bit disjointed as the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.

with Gregor, AJM
jon_gill1 13/Jun Lead O/S
LJC 04/Jun 2nd rpt
with George
RosePearson 30/May Lead O/S

A great 50m pitch. Fun and with interest, but not too challenging.

with Becky Howard
richardashe 17/May 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 17/May Lead O/S
islandlynx 09/May 2nd

Found this harder than expected on second. Need to improve my bridging

Matt77 09/May Lead O/S

Fantastic route with a well polished crux. The bit coming round the roof and into the corner is exciting 3-D climbing.

with Shane
Hidden 03/May 2nd O/S
pearson9596 11/Apr Lead O/S
with Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 11/Apr 2nd rpt
with Mark Condon, Michael P
ollie1 25/Mar Lead dog
youwillfindjimbo 17/Mar Lead O/S
Dr Toph 24/Jan Lead O/S

Bit damp under the corner but didnt detract. Great route with contrasting styles required.

with Steve
Shane Willis 02/Jan Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Bristoldave 15/Nov/14 2nd
with Luke
Si dH 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Fox
stevoland 17/Sep/14 Lead β
Oli 17/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Dave Thompson
Dave Thompson 17/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd
will moy 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Roberts
roberts1234567890 07/Sep/14 2nd
with Will Moy
RFWilkie 06/Sep/14 Lead
with Mark
nige pacer 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Lea
Kirill 02/Aug/14 2nd rpt
cem 02/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 01/Aug/14 2nd
with Andy
khalidq 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
brices 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Llinos
rustaldo 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great route! The crux was just below the roof, holds were a little greasy. Once established in the corner there's a hands-off rest and pretty straight forward from there. ***

with Alex
Alex Hallam 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Three weeks from now, I will be harvesting my crops. Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line. Stay with me. And if you find yourself alone, riding in green fields, with the sun on your face. Do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium and you're already dead! This is probably one of the best climbs, to top of one of the best days climbing I've had. Ever.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Llinos C 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tash 12/Jun/14 2nd
with ali k
markalmack 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
chrisallan 25/May/14 2nd O/S
bigbobbyking 25/May/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Allan, Chris Bull
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
MPSBunny 25/May/14 2nd O/S

First clean E1 second, well pleased with myself (followed this with a clean E2 second). Took plenty of rests and shook out loads! So happy with this.

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead
Brannock 25/May/14 Lead
Misha 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Hard start and very un-Swanage like crux on crimps. Missed the peg as it's awkwardly mid crux and there are good wires below. Going round the roof and up the corner was surprisingly straightforward, lots of jugs to aim for. Great hands free rest in the corner. A good route but somehow lacks the 'top 50' quality in my opinion.

with Sue
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
Fran S8 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 03/May/14 2nd O/S

Perfect weather - fantastic place

with Martin Haworth
Duncan Campbell 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Sustained interest but with a great crimpy crux.

with Bubbles
Cheese Monkey 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Pleased with this one. First crux was completely obvious what to do so had no issues. Second crux getting into the corner was tricky!

with Iggy
squicky 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Great lead from Ben. Never too tricky but serious and foreboding, a wonderful climb with atmosphere and challenge.

with Ben
andycash 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Ash
Ash Sayers 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 04/Apr/14 Lead

desperate, metal led upto peg and I led on his gear with one rest

with Metal
Luxulyan 30/Mar/14 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Richard
Kirill 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
brices 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Remus
cymjt ??/2014 -
Monkey_Alan 10/Nov/13 2nd
Tom Livingstone 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good climbing but with a tricky, crimpy crux.

Matthew Robinson 25/Jul/13 Lead
with Joe
Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd β
LukeyG 24/Jul/13 Lead
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Sarp, Tiff
sarpedon 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Sophie led.

TiffTiff 20/Jul/13 2nd β
with Sophie
wi11 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Mat, Vicky Hau
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
adam 24 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Stroppy 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Good lead from Rog. I found the moves around the pegs tricky and getting the blasted thread out!

RKirke 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rockwarrior ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Tangerine_Kingdom ??/2013 2nd O/S
ian caton ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Abi
nigel pearson 11/Nov/12 2nd O/S

well protected and sustained.

with Robin
Robin Woodward ?/Sep/12 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Ian Bryant
Kevster 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Paul Eckton 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mattyork2 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Got a bit too psyched before leading and jittered up the first bit. Settled into the first crux on the lower wall and calmed a bit. Climbed the face after the mid height break, out right, and avoided the thrutchy corner. SO much climbing. So good. Need to get back to Swanage ASAP. Great trip. Thanks Johnny.

with Johnny Richard
Haydn Jones 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Hidden 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Hard and awkward around the corner!

CRiddiford 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becca
Jake Young 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead rpt
w-watson 21/Jul/12 Lead dnf
coneco 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Asha Osbon
cooperman 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

1st trad lead of the year, quite a wake up call!!

with Greg Foster
richardr 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Crux was very greasy and felt 5c

chris wyatt 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Tip: - wait till the sun gets on it before climbing. Good lead by Rich in damp conditions

with rich
will moy 13/Jun/12 2nd

tricky crux on small crimps. the body jam was a very welcome rest. looking forward coming back for the lead

with paul taylor
paultaylor 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
3 Names 19/May/12 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd O/S
chakrit 10/May/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/May/12 Lead O/S
stuaart 22/Apr/12 2nd

Chris led.

with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
louby 22/Apr/12 2nd
chris_B 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Alan100 15/Apr/12 Lead

Great to have some nice technical face moves before a hands free rest and a spot of chimneying, jamming and underclings. All withing a few meters! There's solid gear to make it all fun too...

Rowan Mitchell 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
LJC 13/Apr/12 2nd rpt
ben.richards 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First E1 and its been a long time coming! Nice moves up the finger crack, a bit thuggy getting into the first corner, then the rest is sailing on jugs. Pumpy, but good rests when you need them.

Simon Allcock 11/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Wilki
Ciro 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/12 Lead

Three years after having a bit of a nitemer on this I finally led it. sweet!

Hidden 03/Mar/12 2nd
Kevster 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
LJC 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Finally... no nesting birds, other climbers on the route, water in the crack, or blood on the initial section! It was a long time coming!

riddle 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Too hot to climb

Dave Mahon 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

One of my first extremes - a fantastic, long pitch. Take a full rack!

matt.jj ?/Oct/11 2nd O/S


jasonpm 24/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Steve IMC
Different Steve 24/Sep/11 Lead dog
with Jason
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
Justin T 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Beautiful climbing up soapy chalk-slime covered cracks, less chalking up and more wiping hands on trousers, perfect!

with Cherry
Monkey_Alan 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First (proper) E1! Took some time working out the crux, but got there eventually!

AlexD 31/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Andy Mosienko
annetweddell 29/Jul/11 2nd

Aaargh! Nightmare of soapy rock & sea mist. Should have known better, but thanks to whoevers left all the jammed wires behind.

with Jeff
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wi11 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Frank C
Sophie Nunn 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Alex
AlexD 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with james
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
manwithacam 19/Jun/11 2nd

second time up this, really enjoyed seconding, the upper part of lightning wall is such fun.

with Mike R
Jim Slater 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
ian d f 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Emmanuel
uncontrollable 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Daj
John Tanner 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 12/Mar/11 2nd dog

Really annoyed i didn't get it clean, did the traverse (crux?) and then slipped taking out gear. Brilliant route though.

halfwaythere 09/Feb/11 2nd
Oli 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Mega. Getting back into the Swanage feel...

with Pete UKC
halfwaythere ?/Nov/10 2nd
manwithacam 24/Oct/10 Lead

Great to do this at last! Hurray

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
cem 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Speeddemonsi 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
nordix 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Jul/10 -
with Andy Reeve
petitflous05 13/Jun/10 Lead dog

Fell on the crux-finger crack. Would like to do it again clean!

WalnutHorse 12/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 02/May/10 Lead β
with scott titt
Graham Westbrook ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Bern 30/Jan/10 2nd rpt
givemetea 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Spicy move just below the roof but it is well protected.

with Louisa
LoopyLou 13/Sep/09 2nd

Single hard commiting move (for the short) above the peg on the lower section to reach the fault/break. Good gear.

with Roslyn
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead
shark 28/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
sgl 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jez
jezb1 30/Jul/09 2nd

Pretty sustained and full on. Top route though.

PilarMartinez 12/Jul/09 2nd dog
with TheCherokee
w.pettet-smith 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S

left hand start less well protected than the central crack start that the locals did. caused a bit of rope drag and all.crux sequence very nice.

with david coley
feilx 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
mark89 17/Jun/09 AltLd
Ceridwen 06/Jun/09 Lead dog

Fell and rested on the crux, which seams a bit reach dependent. So a bit gutted, fantastic climb none the less.

Sophie Nunn 06/Jun/09 2nd
Andy Peak 1 02/Jun/09 2nd
with Pete
timharrison 20/May/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
danm 04/May/09 2nd
with Sion
Bern 05/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Rob Pitt 31/Mar/09 Lead dog


with Nick Arding
tobydunford 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Angus
Mr Tickle 14/Feb/09 Lead dog

did the crux, made a mistake going round the corner and had to take a rest....gutted! Great climb.

with davenev
davenev 14/Feb/09 2nd

Had to clip a piece of gear to recover a bomber hex placement - otherwise clean. Strenuous sustained climbing

Hidden ??/2009 -
DDDD ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd
clipskipper 15/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 13/Jul/08 Lead β

Seconded with Iain Moodie 19 May 2012. I had forgotten how good this is!

with Coz
Matt Bennett 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 03/May/08 Lead dog
with Rebecca Holland
Tobes ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 24/Feb/08 2nd O/S
dan gibson 11/Feb/08 2nd rpt
with eddie church
Neil Adams 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Andy N
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Katex 09/Aug/07 2nd
with Dan
tonanf ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with rich
Different Steve 04/May/07 2nd rpt
with Guy Reid
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
DrGav 12/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Brilliant climbing, never too steep

with Andrey
Chad123 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, well worth three stars - finger crack section fine and well protected, the cruxy bit is the higher run out wall to gain the groove and the easier upper wall.

with Emily
Hidden 21/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
timharrison 08/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with Suse
Different Steve 24/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Top route!

with Jen Towill
Richard Horn 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Boxy 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S


timharrison 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 18/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Tim
timharrison 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with Mike Clifford
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd dog
dan gibson 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Bern ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
brian watson ??/2006 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Kyuzo ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Bernard Lam
Owen W-G 07/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Seconded a few times since and felt harder than I remember on crux and traverse R just above, conditions maybe a factor?

with Max
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
bigie bob ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 26/Jun/04 2nd
timharrison 08/Jun/04 2nd O/S

I will lead this one day.

Dave Reeve ?/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden 27/Apr/04 2nd
benjino ?/Jan/04 -
cem 27/Sep/03 2nd
charlesmfrench 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
pezzerrr 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
JasonG ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 -
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
WB 23/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/99 Lead
DafSWMC ?/Feb/99 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Apr/98 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
OMSKB 05/May/93 2nd O/S
with Richard Winfield
jcw ??/1993 -
with Paul Drew
kp64zl ?/Mar/92 Lead
with Giles
Roget 08/Feb/92 Lead O/S
with jon
ewjudge 05/May/91 2nd O/S
with Sven Wardle
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Ket
Dave Musgrove 31/Mar/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Finklaire
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Pete Nugent 31/Oct/88 2nd

living in Bristol at the time.

with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
Nigel Coe 18/May/86 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
adriandesouza ?/May/86 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1986 AltLd
ill_bill ??/1986 2nd
GuyM ??/1985 -
Richard Weller 02/Sep/84 TR
Nigel Coe 23/Feb/84 2nd
with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 20/Nov/82 Lead
with Dave Kyle, Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Longsufferingropeholder, Hidden, andycash, Bernie L, Hidden, hutchay, lukerathmell, Hidden, Hidden, mattrm, JonmapDL, Alex the Alex, budchawla, crag_hopper_Jay, Graham C, Steve27, Master Chief, pigeonslipper, rustaldo, stvredmond, Ciderslider, Hidden, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, riddle, Hidden, Dan Lane, alimckay, Hidden, Andy Chubb, Hidden, andyfeds, The_Boy_ODwyer, Hidden, clipskipper, Oli
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 86
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 84
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set