Elysium*** E1 5b
[On the arete, 4 kb]38m. A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.1.68 07/Jan/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: On the arete © eroica64
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 253 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

Bristoldave - 2nd - 15/Nov/14 with Luke

Si dH - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14 with Stuart Fox

stevoland - Lead β - 17/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/14

Dave Thompson - Lead - 17/Sep/14 with Oli Lewis

roberts1234567890 - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with Will Moy

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/14

will moy - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Matt Roberts

RFWilkie - Lead - 06/Sep/14 with Mark

nige pacer - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Mike Lea

Kirill - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/14 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/14

climbingpixie - 2nd - 01/Aug/14 with Andy

khalidq - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Jon Leighton

jonleighton - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

brices - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Llinos

Great route! The crux was just below the roof, holds were a little greasy. Once established in the corner there's a hands-off rest and pretty straight forward from there. ***
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Alex

Three weeks from now, I will be harvesting my crops. Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line. Stay with me. And if you find yourself alone, riding in green fields, with the sun on your face. Do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium and you're already dead! This is probably one of the best climbs, to top of one of the best days climbing I've had. Ever.
Alex Hallam - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Matt Rust

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

Llinos C - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

tash - 2nd - 12/Jun/14 with ali k

markalmack - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with james marjot

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14

bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14 with Chris Allan, Chris Bull

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/14

First clean E1 second, well pleased with myself (followed this with a clean E2 second). Took plenty of rests and shook out loads! So happy with this.
MPSBunny - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14 with John Brannock

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/14

Brannock - Lead - 25/May/14

Hard start and very un-Swanage like crux on crimps. Missed the peg as it's awkwardly mid crux and there are good wires below. Going round the roof and up the corner was surprisingly straightforward, lots of jugs to aim for. Great hands free rest in the corner. A good route but somehow lacks the 'top 50' quality in my opinion.
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Sue

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/May/14

wolverine - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Ben Meakin

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with john nightingale

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Tony

Perfect weather - fantastic place
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Martin Haworth

Brilliant. Sustained interest but with a great crimpy crux.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Bubbles

Pleased with this one. First crux was completely obvious what to do so had no issues. Second crux getting into the corner was tricky!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Iggy

Great lead from Ben. Never too tricky but serious and foreboding, a wonderful climb with atmosphere and challenge.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Ben

andycash - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Ash

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14

desperate, metal led upto peg and I led on his gear with one rest
mike lawrence? - Lead - 04/Apr/14 with Metal

Luxulyan - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Tim

Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/14

brices - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/14 with Remus

cymjt - 2014

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with Lawrence Dudley

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

Good climbing but with a tricky, crimpy crux.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 25/Jul/13 with Joe

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Jul/13

LukeyG - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Sophie Nunn - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Sarp, Tiff

Sophie led.
sarpedon - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Strong Sophhie

TiffTiff - 2nd β - 20/Jul/13 with Sophie

wi11 - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Mat, Vicky H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Dan Browne

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Good lead from Rog. I found the moves around the pegs tricky and getting the blasted thread out!
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke

RKirke - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop

Rockwarrior - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with Shabad Chawla

ianto - 2013

michael00693 - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Adam Ryan

well protected and sustained.
nigel pearson - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Robin

Robin Woodward - Lead - Sep/12

nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Ian Bryant

Kevster - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/12

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with kevin faux

Got a bit too psyched before leading and jittered up the first bit. Settled into the first crux on the lower wall and calmed a bit. Climbed the face after the mid height break, out right, and avoided the thrutchy corner. SO much climbing. So good. Need to get back to Swanage ASAP. Great trip. Thanks Johnny.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Johnny Richard

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12

Hard and awkward around the corner!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Caroline

CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Becca

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Mike

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12

w-watson - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/12

Leiko Miura - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Asha Osbon

1st trad lead of the year, quite a wake up call!!
cooperman - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Greg Foster

Crux was very greasy and felt 5c
richardr - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Chris Wyatt

Tip: - wait till the sun gets on it before climbing. Good lead by Rich in damp conditions
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with rich

tricky crux on small crimps. the body jam was a very welcome rest. looking forward coming back for the lead
will moy - 2nd - 13/Jun/12 with paul taylor

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12 with Will I Am

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12

3 Names - Lead dog - 19/May/12 with Ed Bulman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12

chakrit - Lead O/S - 10/May/12

billb - Lead O/S - May/12 with Mark Warnet

Chris led.
stuaart - 2nd - 22/Apr/12 with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn

louby - 2nd - 22/Apr/12 with Stuart Reeves, Chris Burn

chris_B - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Staurt Reeves, Lou Atkin

Great to have some nice technical face moves before a hands free rest and a spot of chimneying, jamming and underclings. All withing a few meters! There's solid gear to make it all fun too...
Alan100 - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Alan Murray

LJC - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/12 with ben.richards

First E1 and its been a long time coming! Nice moves up the finger crack, a bit thuggy getting into the first corner, then the rest is sailing on jugs. Pumpy, but good rests when you need them.
ben.richards - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Luca Celano

Simon Allcock - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Wilki

Ciro - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Ramon

Three years after having a bit of a nitemer on this I finally led it. sweet!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Mar/12 with Ted Piper

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/12

Kevster - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Finally... no nesting birds, other climbers on the route, water in the crack, or blood on the initial section! It was a long time coming!
LJC - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Too hot to climb
riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson

One of my first extremes - a fantastic, long pitch. Take a full rack!
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Matt Jackson

Awesom!
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - Oct/11

jasonpm - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Steve IMC

Different Steve - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11 with Jason

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Beautiful climbing up soapy chalk-slime covered cracks, less chalking up and more wiping hands on trousers, perfect!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Cherry

First (proper) E1! Took some time working out the crux, but got there eventually!
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Alex Dennis

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/11 with Monkey Alan

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11 with Andy Mosienko

Aaargh! Nightmare of soapy rock & sea mist. Should have known better, but thanks to whoevers left all the jammed wires behind.
annetweddell - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

wi11 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Frank C

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Alex

AlexD - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Sophie

tonanf - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

second time up this, really enjoyed seconding, the upper part of lightning wall is such fun.
manwithacam - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Mike R

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Trevor

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Emmanuel

uncontrollable - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11 with Daj

John Tanner - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Matt Smith

Really annoyed i didn't get it clean, did the traverse (crux?) and then slipped taking out gear. Brilliant route though.
Matt Smith - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/11 with John Tanner

halfwaythere - 2nd - 09/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/10

halfwaythere - 2nd - Nov/10

Great to do this at last! Hurray
manwithacam - Lead - 24/Oct/10 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Dan Metcalfe

cem - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

nordix - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Fell on the crux-finger crack. Would like to do it again clean!
petitflous05 - Lead dog - 13/Jun/10

WalnutHorse - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

brian watson - Lead β - 02/May/10 with scott titt

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - May/10

Bern - 2nd rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Richard White

Spicy move just below the roof but it is well protected.
givemetea - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Louisa

Single hard commiting move (for the short) above the peg on the lower section to reach the fault/break. Good gear.
LoopyLou - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Roslyn

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/09

shark - 2nd - 28/Aug/09 with Ed Southwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

sgl - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Jez

Pretty sustained and full on. Top route though.
jezb1 - 2nd - 30/Jul/09

PilarMartinez - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/09 with TheCherokee

left hand start less well protected than the central crack start that the locals did. caused a bit of rope drag and all.crux sequence very nice.
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with david coley

feilx - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/09 with Angus

mark89 - AltLd - 17/Jun/09

Fell and rested on the crux, which seams a bit reach dependent. So a bit gutted, fantastic climb none the less.
Ceridwen - Lead dog - 06/Jun/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 06/Jun/09

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Pete

timharrison - 2nd rpt - 20/May/09 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

danm - 2nd - 04/May/09 with Sion

Bern - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/09 with Richard White

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/09

Wet
Rob Pitt - Lead dog - 31/Mar/09 with Nick Arding

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Angus

did the crux, made a mistake going round the corner and had to take a rest....gutted! Great climb.
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 14/Feb/09 with davenev

Had to clip a piece of gear to recover a bomber hex placement - otherwise clean. Strenuous sustained climbing
davenev - 2nd - 14/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

DDDD - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

adamscottthomas - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/08

clipskipper - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/08 with Ed Babington

Seconded with Iain Moodie 19 May 2012. I had forgotten how good this is!
Ed Babs - Lead β - 13/Jul/08 with Coz

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 03/May/08 with Rebecca Holland

Tobes - Lead O/S - May/08 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/08

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 11/Feb/08 with eddie church

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Andy N

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07

Katex - 2nd - 09/Aug/07 with Dan

tonanf - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with rich

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 04/May/07 with Guy Reid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Brilliant climbing, never too steep
DrGav - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Andrey

Excellent route, well worth three stars - finger crack section fine and well protected, the cruxy bit is the higher run out wall to gain the groove and the easier upper wall.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

chrisbevins - 2007

timharrison - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/06 with Suse

Top route!
Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/06 with Jen Towill

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06

Brilliant
Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

timharrison - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Tim

timharrison - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Mike Clifford

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/06 with jamie evans

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2006 with scott titt

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Nov/05 with Bernard Lam

Seconded a few times since and felt harder than I remember on crux and traverse R just above, conditions maybe a factor?
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/05 with Max

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/05

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 20/May/05 with Ben Gilbert

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Feb/05

feilx - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/04

I will lead this one day.
timharrison - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/04 with Matt Perks

Dave Reeve - 2nd O/S - Jun/04 with Tony Payne

benjino - Jan/04

cem - 2nd - 27/Sep/03 with Graham Dolman

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/03 with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Viv

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/03

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2003 with Paul Wood

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/01

Hidden - 2001

WB - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/00 with Guy

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/99

DafSWMC - 2nd dog - Feb/99

Richard White - Lead O/S - Jul/96

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead - 1994

OMSKB - 2nd O/S - 05/May/93 with Richard Winfield

kp64zl - Lead - Mar/92 with Giles

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/92 with jon

ewjudge - 2nd O/S - 05/May/91 with Sven Wardle

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

steve taylor - Lead O/S - Apr/90 with Ket

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/90 with Pete Finklaire

jasper11 - 1990

living in Bristol at the time.
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 31/Oct/88 with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 18/May/86 with Brian Wyvill

adriandesouza - Lead O/S - May/86

DDDD - AltLd - 1986

ill_bill - 2nd - 1986

GuyM - 1985

Richard Weller - TR - 02/Sep/84

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 23/Feb/84 with Pete Oxley

Nigel Coe - Lead - 20/Nov/82 with Dave Kyle, Tim Dunsby

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with Various

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, lukerathmell, mattrm, JonmapDL, Alex the Alex, budchawla, crag_hopper_Jay, Graham C, Steve27, Master Chief, Jon Didymus, pigeonslipper, rustaldo, stvredmond, Ciderslider, johnpr, riddle, Dan Lane, alimckay, Andy Chubb, andyfeds, The_Boy_ODwyer, clipskipper, Oli

Voting
Total votes cast 238
hard E20 of 80
E20 of 80
easy E20 of 80
hard E18 of 80
E168 of 80
easy E14 of 80
hard HVS0 of 80
HVS0 of 80
easy HVS0 of 80
hard 5c0 of 79
5c0 of 79
easy 5c2 of 79
hard 5b8 of 79
5b63 of 79
easy 5b5 of 79
hard 5a1 of 79
5a0 of 79
easy 5a0 of 79
3 Stars63 of 79
2 Stars15 of 79
1 Star1 of 79
0 Stars0 of 79
Bag of .....0 of 79
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf