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Bottomless Buttress* HS 4b

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[Pitch 1 Bottomless Buttress, 3 kb]30m, 2 pitches. A worthwhile and enjoyable climb that is in the main well protected and on good holds. Start on the right-hand side of the big undercut buttress. 1) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner on the right and traverse left to gain the front of the buttress. Two cracks lead to the fault-line and a good ledge (large nut belay). 2) 4a, 15m. Climb up for 5m then move right to climb a corner to finish. The final half of this pitch is on less than perfect rock. © ROCKFAX
FA. I.Howell, A.Hartley, A.Rowe 16/Jun/1964

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Orange Spot Swanage.

Photo: Pitch 1 Bottomless Buttress © Ciderslider
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 231 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

froglette - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with Stewart Armstrong

Nexonen - AltLd rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Sophie, Floris

leglesslizard - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13

Peter Lovell - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/13

jezb1 - Lead - 19/Apr/13

Led both
HfH - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Mandeep

Enjoyable. If HS is your limit, pitch one may feel a little committing.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Matt

Rapid ascent to avoid the dark after having abbed off from the first belay of Aventura. Made it, Ewen only just beaten by the setting sun. Cold at the top.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Ewan

Lead pitch 1 this time - very short crux moves to belay ledge.
Ciderslider - AltLd rpt - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Stephenson

Lead 2nd pitch
ciderspider - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ciderslider

MontyH - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with Kate, pete frost

Sent Tim up the first pitch I did the second. Ewan really enjoyed the second pitch.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Tim Johns

Solid 4b at top of first pitch. Worth a star.
eroica64 - Lead - 06/Sep/12 with Audrey Morrison

Rob Laird - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12

mr random - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Rob Laird-

first route at Boulder Ruckle, very enjoyable, crux looked harder than it was
pippa_g - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Alan Blanchflower

Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/12 with James Bridger, Pippa Gillingham

Climbed with Luke and Nick, 2nd'd both pitches
Steve27 - 2nd - 11/Aug/12 with Luke Rathmell

Geoffers - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/12 with Lauren, Tim

Headjamm - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Geoff

Steve27 - AltLd - 01/Jul/12 with Ewan Gilmour

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Andre Clarke

gilmourheid - AltLd - 01/Jul/12 with Steve27

lukerathmell - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with Nick, steve, Rachel Bennett

theocelano - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12

ben.richards - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Theo Celano

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd rpt - 06/May/12 with Hector Prieto, Andy Combes, Ollie Dorrell

hector - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Julian Prieto

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 19/Feb/12

Ian JL - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Nov/11

LJC - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Oct/11

Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 09/Oct/11 with Jeremy, Viskii Chicu

tev - AltLd β - 09/Oct/11 with Tom S

me p1,thomas p2.nice position!crux just before belay in fault
tomshanti - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Thomas Vaughan

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 08/Oct/11 with Matt Swain, John Inkpen

Shonkhor - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Ben

Led the whole lot and had to suffer the hideous top out. Bottom pitch is the best with all the holds beng where you want them. Chose to add an additional belay by the initial pedestal to avoid drag as we were on a single rope.
maresia - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Billy

jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Katy Jeans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Pete Scott - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Jimbo

Ciderslider - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Paul Davis

Led the first pitch, Sonya led the second. I got the better end of the deal, lovely pitch with great exposure and good gear. Chossy top out. When you're in the corner there's an overhung block that's only held in place by mud. Got a shower of pebbles in my face when the rope was being pulled up.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Sonya Crowe

I led first pitch
Fiona McFarlane - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Kirsty Kerr, Shona Hamner

Shona H - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Toby Dunford

colkurtz - 2nd - 01/Jul/11 with Robb

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/11

LukeyG - Lead - Jul/11 with C-nunez

recon - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with benny b

Dieter Z - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with benny

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Steve Knaggs

Me P1, Roy P2
leonjones - AltLd - 14/Jun/11 with Roy Smith

Nexonen - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Jake

Hidden - Jun/11

norb - 2nd - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

The top pitch of this has around 5m of pleasant climbing above the break, after that it is very loose and dirty.
MarkRyder - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with James P

jamespilgrim - AltLd O/S - 27/May/11 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/11

Good first pitch and a half, nice technical layback crack to reach the belay ledge. Dirty loose looking top out.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Stewart

Very nice route, more than 1 star. Nice if tired! Lead 2nd pitch.
matt.jj - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Julian King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11

Led P1. Rockfax topo shows the traverse line being higher than it actually is. Went too high as a consequence and had to downclimb a little. Quality first pitch. Felt high end 4b. Second pitch a lot easier but dirty once at the corner. First Ruckle route - will be back!
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 08/May/11 with Daniel

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 30/Apr/11

Rhys Jones - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with CalshotDave

Led p2
nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with steve

Steve27 - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Nick Hawkins

LJC - AltLd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with ben.richards

Led P2
LozM - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Mark J

ben.richards - AltLd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Luca Celano

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/11

Steve27 - AltLd - 27/Mar/11 with Tom Kett

Pitch 1. Ben lead p2. Climbed with our rucksacks for some Alpine training which made some of the balency moves on the face of p1 a little tenuous!
LJC - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with ben.richards

Climbed with rucksacks full of gear in training for Dolomites this summer, even took the Jetboil for a quick coffee on the belay ledge!
ben.richards - AltLd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Luca Celano

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

Led P2
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Viskii Chicu

Stewart Armstrong - 2011 with Ivan Bicknell

Tough move gettting upto the big ledge
LukeyG - AltLd - 24/Nov/10

Andre P1, Me P2
leonjones - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Andre Clarke

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/10

Lead first pitch. Took a fall on the second pitch below the roof when the block I pulled on can away in my hand!!! (Got to love the Ruckle). As a result I sliced the top off my finger, hit the ledge and had to start the pitch again.
gibsond - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/10 with Pilar Martinez

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tim

climbtim - AltLd - 08/Aug/10 with Tom Thorne

1st pitch: JL led, DL 2nd, DJ 3rd 2nd pitch: DJ led, DL 2nd, JL 3rd
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb

FINE LEAD BY STUART, LACK OF ROCK TIME AND SCARY BOULDER RUCKLE WITH ITS CRAZY LIMESTONES. WELL DONE!
mikehenesy - AltLd rpt - 07/Aug/10 with Stuart Fletcher

Ld both pitches
jezb1 - Lead - 03/Aug/10

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Aug/10 with Andre Clarke

I led first pitch; up corner, traverse diagonally up left, round arete into wind, up crack to crux just before ample ledge.
risby - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Leon Jones

Ris P1, Me P2
leonjones - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with Ris Wright

Lead first pitch
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

First trip to the Ruckle after two failed attempts (one due to weather, the other due to an less-than-encouraging word from a fellow climber moments before abseiling "OOH, the Ruckle, better have your prussiks ready!" - thanks a lot buddy!) Anyway - really fun climb, great holds, good gear, interesting rock formations too! I'll certainly be back for more!!!!
ben.richards - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Luca Celano

RD P2
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Martin

smolders - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Robert D

Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/10 with Andy

Calder - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Andy Clow

LJC - 2nd β - Jul/10 with ben.richards

Laurel and Hardy go climbing. Oh dear, stuck gear, more stuck gear, too wierdly windy to hear each other, more stuck gear, cods freezing off etc etc. But despite all that it was a good fun climb all the same. So when does it get warmer?
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with Ian Holloway

Nice climb to warm up on.
Skullfire - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10 with Mike McKenna

3rd time
dickie01 - AltLd rpt - 09/May/10 with Joe Heasman

tom lead the first pitch me the second
Ben Sidsaph - AltLd O/S - 05/May/10 with Kate Bolton, Tom Norton

Climbed with Tom and Ben. First multi-pitch with a big ledge for the belay point.
KateBolton - 2nd - 05/May/10 with Ben Sidsaph, Tom Boeckx

andyfeds - Lead rpt - 03/May/10 with Ed W

tscoobydoo - Lead O/S - May/10 with phillip belcher

P2 this time
jezb1 - AltLd - 18/Apr/10

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Ian

Led 1st pitch
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Cat Tabbner, Max Streeton

tev - 2nd - 14/Mar/10 with Mark J, Des

led both pitches
Indy Nile - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/10 with Mark James, Thomas Vaughan

i led pitch two 4a
cayteye - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Brian Mead

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/09 with Tim

Richard Morgan - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Toby Kluth

awful conditions!
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 07/Sep/09

Dunx - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Joe M

joeym - 2nd - 30/Aug/09 with duncan curry

Lead pitch 2
nick hawkins - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09 with peter

Ld P1. Not as good as I had hoped but ok.
jezb1 - AltLd - 12/Aug/09

Led both pitches, Colin 2nd, Mark 3rd
Indy Nile - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/09 with Mark James, Colin Cook

tavarua - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Sarah, Des

Lead 1st pitch
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Karl, Stella Moggs

me p1, Matt p2, Sarah 2nd both pitches
Indy Nile - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Sarah Ramplin, Matt Burke

tscoobydoo - Lead O/S - Aug/09

leonjones - AltLd - 19/Jul/09 with Des Jerman

P1 Leon, P2 me. last half of 2nd pitch was dirty and loose.
Indy Nile - AltLd rpt - 19/Jul/09 with Leon Jones

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 10/Jul/09 with Clare

leonjones - AltLd - 04/Jul/09 with Des Jerman

P1 me, P2 Leon
Indy Nile - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Leon Jones

Lead 2nd Pitch
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 27/Jun/09 with Frodo Stickel

uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 27/Jun/09 with Alan B

Pete took the second pitch
MontyH - AltLd - 03/Jun/09 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Led 2nd pitch.
garywong - AltLd O/S - 09/May/09 with Patrick Goodwin

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09

adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Gwilym Starks

jamie ward - AltLd - 05/Apr/09 with Marcus Harvey

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Andy Combes

Lead the pitch I climbed in the dark yesterday and reclaimed a No5 hex that I couldn't retrieve in the dark, excellent route, even better in daylight!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Andy Mosienko

roped solo
uncontrollable - Solo O/S - 21/Mar/09 with roped solo

Ed Westwood - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with nilsamelinckx

It got dark while we were still only half way up, we had one head torch between us.. luckily! I ended up seconding the top pitch in total darkness, unable to see my feet! The leader sent the head torch down, so when I climbing up as far as the last piece of gear I could see!! Very exciting, apt for first boulder ruckle experience!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Ed & Nils

@ndy - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Simon Goldman

Led P1
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Luke Gannarelli

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Feb/09

mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/09

hrgcb - 2009 with Joe Prinold

Hidden - 2009

MontyH - Lead - 11/Oct/08 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Oct/08

nice climb!
dickie01 - AltLd - Oct/08 with Joe Heaseman

At last an easy, enjoyable route. Fine positions and exposure for the grade.
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tim Gledhill

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 21/Sep/08 with Max Streeton

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Trevor

trev_f - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Ed

davenev - 2nd O/S - Aug/08 with luke

mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Chris Lodge

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/08

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/08 with davenev

MontyH - Lead - Jul/08 with Paul Milton

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Nov/07

Great exposure...climbed as sun was setting!
prinny - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Henry

Clee - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/07

felt harder than last time? led both pitches.
MontyH - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/07 with pete frost

Lead first pitch
vet - Lead - 08/Jul/07 with Helen

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 06/May/07 with Dave Gale

Lead both pitches. We abseiled in to boulder ruckle for the first time on my second day ever at Swanage and my first trip on trad in a year. We watched as a young muscle bound lad struggled on the crux getting onto the platform for the belay at the break and thought about prussiking back out. Decided to try the climb though and wasn't as bad as it looked.
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - May/07 with Peter Rolph

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/07

Damp start until around the corner. A lot of rope drag so Si belayed before ledge, I led through to the top.
Sylvi - AltLd - 17/Mar/07 with Simon

Rob Kennard - 2007

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2007

thin before the 1st belay!
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Lee

Last section of the first pitch is trickier than you might expect for the grade.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Kevin Knight

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/06

Ybot Htulk - AltLd rpt - Sep/06 with Kristoffer

kristofferalpsjo - AltLd O/S - Sep/06 with Toby Kluth

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/06 with Patrick

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/06 with John Inkpen

great 1st pitch, dirty 2nd 1/2 of 2nd pitch.
MontyH - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/06 with Brian

winter_burn - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/06

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Olly and Ant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/06

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Jun/06 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/06

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Ian

Gareth - AltLd - 05/Mar/06 with Andrew

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

repeat ascent
Piers Harley - AltLd β - 22/Dec/05 with Simon Clark

Piers Harley - AltLd β - 07/Dec/05 with Paul Winder

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/05

Outdoorfun37 - 2nd - 12/Apr/05 with Paul Chidel

Hidden - 15/Feb/05

feilx - 2005

timharrison - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/04 with Matt Perks

Richard White - 2004

Alaric - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/03 with Steph Owen

colin milton - Lead - 14/Sep/03 with Dave V

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/03

cliffy - AltLd O/S - Sep/03 with Bob Mott, Adrienne Adlington

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/02

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 07/Jul/02 with Steve Webster

Jim Walton - 2002 with Matthew Stammers

aged_ape - Lead O/S - May/01 with Rob B

andybenham - 2001

climbtim - AltLd - Nov/00 with ghost

climbtim - AltLd - Nov/00 with ghost

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/00

Hidden - TR - 16/Jan/00

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2000

Hidden - 23/May/99

andyfeds - Lead - 13/Apr/97 with Shep

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - May/93 with Chris

sdht - 1993

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 11/Jun/89 with Joe

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, simonjkinsella, Hidden, bradholmes, Rich K, johnpr, Hidden, griff90, doyle12

Voting
Total votes cast 122
hard VS0 of 44
VS0 of 44
easy VS1 of 44
hard HS8 of 44
HS33 of 44
easy HS2 of 44
hard S0 of 44
S0 of 44
easy S0 of 44
hard 4c0 of 42
4c0 of 42
easy 4c1 of 42
hard 4b3 of 42
4b31 of 42
easy 4b6 of 42
hard 4a1 of 42
4a0 of 42
easy 4a0 of 42
3 Stars0 of 36
2 Stars11 of 36
1 Star23 of 36
0 Stars2 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 231 (0.4%)
Lead49 of 231 (21.2%)
Followed30 of 231 (13.0%)
Toproped1 of 231 (0.4%)
Alt Leads134 of 231 (58.0%)
Unknown16 of 231 (6.9%)

'Climbed'83 of 231 (35.9%)
clean O/S111 of 231 (48.1%)
clean β4 of 231 (1.7%)
clean rpt33 of 231 (14.3%)