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Zo Zo* VS 4b

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[Paul Lloyd on 'Zo Zo' VS 4c, Guillemot Ledge, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches. An impressive climb for the grade that has an excellent first pitch, but finishes on some poor rock, requiring care. 1) 4b, 25m. The large corner needs some big gear. At the fault-line move left to a large ledge and belay. 2) 4a, 17m. The wall and groove above and to the right of the corner is steady but has some loose blocks. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Swanage A-Z.

Photo: Paul Lloyd on 'Zo Zo' VS 4c, Guillemot Ledge © purple sue
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 136 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Fairly slick lead before sunset
CurlyStevo - Lead - 11/Jan/14 with clipskipper

mattc - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Lead as one pitch, I have to agree with other voters there is a 4c move on this route, worth VS whatever though as its a quite runout here and there (can be tamed to some degree by huge cams I imagine) and fairly sustained in places. I didn't find it as easy as some of the other swanage VS routes and I like cracks.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Nov/13 with MattC

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/13

francois - 2nd - 07/Sep/13 with Chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/13

Led P2.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Stevo

Lead pitch 1
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

Lead the first pitch which was very nice, looked harder from the bottom. Second pitch is just a formality really.
Sam Husband - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Ed

Lead P2 a.k.a. the joke, not worth leading P2. P1 was really good though, impressive and fun.
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Sam Husband

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

P1 is Stiff, P2 is rubbish and loose.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with Brian Mead

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/12

Had to sit on gear at the crux.
Fatclimber - Lead dog - 25/Feb/12 with Dean Chapman

louby - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Chris Burn

chris_B - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Lou Atkin

Ian JL - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11

Lead P1, Rich pitch 2 which was a lot more solid than I expected (and a lot better than some top outs on boulder ruckle !)
Ciderslider - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/11 with Rich

BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Mike Kendon, Lizzie

Found crux hard - tight rope. Led top (4a) pitch.
eroica64 - AltLd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Peter Roberts

MontyH - Lead - 06/Jul/11 with pete frost

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn, Brian Watson

MarkyGee - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Young Tony, David Clark

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Alan, Brian

brian watson - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn

Awesome route - loved it all the way, and worth some stars. Great climb for the grade.
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11

Had to retreat from first pitch as had no big gear with me and couldn't reach the higher crack or overlap!
AlexD - AltLd - 03/Apr/11 with Scott

Ali.B - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/11

Bit greasy and felt harder than I remember, led the easy second pitch today.
The Ivanator - AltLd rpt - 10/Mar/11 with Jez

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/11 with Rich

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 2011

lead first pitch, Mark second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 18/Sep/10 with Mark J

Stunning first pitch
riddle - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Yasmina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10

Excellent first pitch. 2nd pitch very lose but not too freaky
Andre Clarke - Lead - 25/Jul/10

risby - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Darrell Gibson

gibsond - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Andre Clarke, Ris Wright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10

Tightsgirl - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with DAJ, Clare Francis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 18/Mar/10

Great first pitch. Loose second but it goes okay. Nice new fence posts to belay on.
eroica64 - 2nd - 18/Oct/09

silhouette - 2nd - 15/Oct/09 with tonanf

Led 2nd pitch.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Julian Prieto

I led P1.
The Ivanator - AltLd rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Stewart

Led 1st pitch
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Alan Blanchflower

Perryman - AltLd - 25/Aug/09 with Ivan Bicknell

Led P1, great climb although gear is well spaced, a few largish Cams help a bunch.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Sean

martin one - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/09 with patrick

lead pitch 1
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Des

p1 Frodo, p2 moi
Indy Nile - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/09 with Frodo Stickel

Lead 1st pitch. Gained the belay ledge very inelegantly.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 18/Jul/09 with Des Jerman

P1 Alan, P2 me. started up left for second pitch, chucking holds off left, right and centre, route looked like it could come down any minute, so went right into the corner to finish.
Indy Nile - AltLd rpt - 18/Jul/09 with Alan Blanchflower

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Clare

leonjones - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Des Jerman

Leon did 1st pitch but didn't quite get the crux, so I finished 1st pitch. Leon followed through to finish
Indy Nile - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Leon Jones

MontyH - Lead - 30/May/09 with pete frost

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - May/09

mark89 - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Alex More - AltLd O/S - 2009 with bob

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 24/Aug/08

mikehenesy - AltLd - 29/Jul/08 with Chris Lodge

PilarMartinez - Lead β - 12/Jul/08 with AlisVet

Andy Chubb - Lead - 30/May/08 with Gideon Castro

good route, done it a few times though
MontyH - Lead - 10/May/08 with pete frost

Book says big gear for the crack, but it needs to be huge! Unprotected for the first 30 feet otherwise. Crux is thoughtful but the gear is pretty good by then and the holds positive. Top out loose and no stakes.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Kevin Knight

muffed first pitch crux. 2nd pitch easy
kevinknights - AltLd dog - 21/Oct/07 with Lee

cliffy - AltLd - 23/Sep/07 with Leon Jones, Andrew Combes

leonjones - 2nd - 23/Sep/07 with Ian Clifford

Tom Gadsden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Kit

Started off leading, but couldn't make the first crux. Lame.
Kit Gillibrand - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Tom Gadsden

Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Aug/07

Rob84 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Olly

Lee's first time down, no problem for him.
MontyH - AltLd rpt - 16/May/07 with brian and lee

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/07

MontyH - Lead rpt - 04/Apr/07 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - 2007

Hidden - TR O/S - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Nov/06

climbed both pitches
MontyH - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/06 with Mandy and Paul

Good first pitch, which I climbed poorly.
MontyH - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Brian

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 23/Sep/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/06

Hidden - AltLd - 11/May/05

Hidden - 06/Mar/05

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/04

timharrison - Lead O/S - 2004 with Keith

Jon Greengrass - 2004 with Paul

On Climbers' Club meet
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 13/Sep/03 with Pete Finclaire

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/03

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead - 02/Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jan/03

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jan/03

Hidden - Lead - Feb/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/00

Hidden - 31/Oct/99

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/99

CMacD - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 15/Nov/98

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/98

Hidden - Feb/98

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1996

colin milton - AltLd - 26/Aug/95 with eric milton

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Bean

Hidden - 1995

sdht - 1993

Marti999 - AltLd - Sep/92 with kev

MoWalker3 - 29/Jun/92

kp64zl - Lead - Dec/91 with Giles

rogerskews - AltLd - 21/Sep/91 with Martin Coward

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Aug/91 with Alison Dorey

Hidden - Lead - 18/Dec/88

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 06/Mar/88 with David

Nigel Coe - Dec/86 with Scott Titt

RichardMc - Lead - 22/Jun/86 with Chris Owens

ill_bill - AltLd - May/86

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Nov/80

Nigel Coe - Lead - 14/Oct/79 with Richard Christianson

Falko - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/77 with Howard Lancashire

Falko - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/77 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, bradholmes, benny b, andyfeds, Tom Gadsden

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard HVS0 of 33
HVS0 of 33
easy HVS1 of 33
hard VS8 of 33
VS22 of 33
easy VS1 of 33
hard HS0 of 33
HS1 of 33
easy HS0 of 33
hard 4c0 of 33
4c1 of 33
easy 4c15 of 33
hard 4b12 of 33
4b5 of 33
easy 4b0 of 33
hard 4a0 of 33
4a0 of 33
easy 4a0 of 33
3 Stars3 of 26
2 Stars9 of 26
1 Star13 of 26
0 Stars1 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead38 of 136 (27.9%)
Followed18 of 136 (13.2%)
Toproped1 of 136 (0.7%)
Alt Leads65 of 136 (47.8%)
Unknown14 of 136 (10.3%)

'Climbed'69 of 136 (50.7%)
clean O/S46 of 136 (33.8%)
clean β1 of 136 (0.7%)
clean rpt16 of 136 (11.8%)
dogged4 of 136 (2.9%)