Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
 
Ledgend Direct* HVS 5a

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[The Jurassic coast from belay of Ledgend Direct 18m (1st pitch) , Guillemot Ledge ., 1 kb]33m, 2 pitches. A popular route up a gear-packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over the years and now fully merits its HVS grade. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb a wall to gain the corner, which leads steeply to a ledge on the left, as for Ledgend. 2) 4a, 15m. As for Ledgend pitch two. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Neame, A.Monnery 12/Feb/1967

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: The Jurassic coast from belay of Ledgend Direct 18m (1st pitch) , Guillemot Ledge . © Boogs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 185 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/14

soft. Backup these nasty pegs!
Murilo Lessa - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Hiannan

Lead second pitch
TomRiddelsdell - AltLd O/S - 26/May/14 with Shane Williams

Quite a few moves in a row but never too hard. Good rock on the crux but often a bit damp feeling on holds you would much rather bone dry!
CurlyStevo - 2nd - 25/May/14 with Mick Ward

Run out more than I wanted because I wasn't that confident placing gear whilst weighting my arms, not for lack of options. Decided to make the easy moves instead of hanging round
islandlynx - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with TomRiddelsdell

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd rpt - 14/May/14 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 14/May/14 with Julian Prieto

brian watson - 2nd rpt - 11/May/14 with Sophie Nunn, scott titt

Sophie Nunn - Lead rpt - 11/May/14 with Scott, Brian

All steady stuff
clipskipper - AltLd β - 04/May/14 with Davey Boy

P1
Peter Lovell - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Gabi

P2
leglesslizard - AltLd O/S - Apr/14

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Andy

Final route of the day. Quite tired and so found it tough especially the left hand start.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

damp on the crux. Done as one pitch.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/13

will moy - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Jim Oakley

Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Ian Pegg

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/13

francois - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Chawn

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/13

Vincej - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Nevil

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with mandy clement

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 24/Jul/13 with Joe

Thought I was climbing batt crack, but realised once under the overhang it was too tough for elliot ( good excuse as I was getting pumped and climbing shite!). Had to climb back down and sacrifice a sling lower down. Damn. Big cam handy under the overhang.
darren hudson - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/13 with elliot ford, David Ford

P1
WalnutHorse - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Josh Rigby

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/13

Bit soapy and upset the grumpy man climbing Ledgend as apparently we shouldn't have chosen a route so close to his...
jezb1 - Lead - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead - May/13

Tightsgirl - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Ali Rose

arose - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Hannah Francis

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Again John considerately lead both pitches at a good rate . Engrossing climb with some fingery holds and tricky moves in a corner below and left of second pitch belay .
Boogs - 2nd β - 18/Nov/12

As 1 pitch. Finally got this one ticked!
Monkey_Alan - Lead RP - 11/Nov/12 with Bob Mott

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Nov/12

Nice route with solid gear , highly recommend .
LaMentalist - AltLd - Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Was a bit shagged after the last route but thought I'd be ok on a VS, but was blowin o.m.a at the top of the crack and had to hang about on the rope, getting on to the first ledge was a bugger to start with too. Much relieved to see it's now an HVS. Must get a new guide book.
mikehenesy - AltLd dog - 15/Sep/12 with Tim Johns

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/12

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Dizz - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Hugh T

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12

Great moves on the overhanging bridging crack on pitch 1.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Johnny Richard

Lead second (largely non existent) pitch. Great lay back in crux
jwhp - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12

therat - Lead - 04/Aug/12

A great climb! Difficult but well protected crux.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Sam Lands

Hidden - AltLd dog - Jun/12

P1, did pitch 2 bare foot for fun.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Will I Am

will moy - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with paul taylor

nic42 - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/12 with air, stef, simon

VS with one 5a move
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Dec/11

led p1 with one fall
Kirill - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/11 with Charles Moreton

Led p2
cem - AltLd rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - Lead - 05/Nov/11

DOVEY - Nov/11 with Budd

After all the psych I was surprised at how easily it went (although it was lovely and dry - no grease at all). Bomber gear and just a couple of committing moves before the pre ledge jugfest. Can't believe I've actually lead my first HVS - get in there !!!! Done as a single pitch.
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Fatclimber

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11

Fatclimber - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11 with Ciderslider

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/11

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

riddle - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

nickdonohue - Lead - Oct/11 with Emma Grant, Chris Ridgers

Lead second pitch
Steve27 - AltLd - 24/Sep/11 with Paul Wilson-Roberts

Done in one pitch
Geoffers - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/11 with Tim

jasonpm - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Martin Hore, Simon Chandler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11

P1
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Graham Westbrook

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/11

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Phil Belcher

LukeyG - Lead - Jun/11

Have lead before
jezb1 - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

lead pitch 1
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Julian P

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Frodo Stickel

grease central
AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Scott

Well protected with a thuggy crux. Lots of safe fun.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/11

Hidden - 2011

I led first pitch, Leon led second
risby - AltLd rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Leon Jones

Ris P1, Me P2. Came off at the hard bit.
leonjones - AltLd - 07/Nov/10 with Ris Wright

Failed at the same point as before, but this time had strength to pull onto the ledge after a rest on the rope.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 07/Nov/10 with Mark James

Lead first pitch. Crack thinner than it looks but holds plenty of gear.
Andre Clarke - Lead dog - 24/Oct/10 with Tom Vaughan

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Oct/10

Led second pitch on blue rope after Tom had already led it on green rope while Andre belayed us both direct from the ledge end.
risby - AltLd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Andre Clarke, Tom Thorne

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/10

Hidden - Aug/10

Followed first pitch which was testing but enjoyable. Personally found the crack slippery due to salt. Boring second pitch.
matt.jj - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

martin one - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Tim

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

led first pitch. hold on layback crux felt like someone had poured cooking oil over it - argh!
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Patrick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/10

risby - TR dog - 23/May/10 with jill stevens

Tried leading, damp in crack near the top of P1. Tried to move up several times before getting hands to the ledge and finding... nothing. Eventually feet popped off and I fell a short distance onto a good cam. Arms too pumped to try again, so got Paul & Jill to lower a top rope.
Monkey_Alan - TR - 23/May/10 with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Ris Wright

led 2nd pitch
breed - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ellis Bird

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Chris Brooke

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Rich

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Sam Fergason

First climb of the day, brilliant!
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Priit, Mario

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

The Ivanator - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with Sean

(1st pitch) dont like trad! but looked like a good climb with a ballsy overhung crux, where i laid loads of protection like a scared little girl!
Perryman - AltLd dog - 19/Aug/09 with Ivan Bicknell

lisapaling - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Andy Lamont

Ld both pitches. My old guide book says VS 4c, and it felt harder to me so glad the new book gives it the new grade. Really enjoyed it.
jezb1 - Lead - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Jun/09

tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with tomek

MarkRyder - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Lee

tom led in 1 pitch
SGD - 2nd - 21/May/09 with Tom Relf

Ceridwen - AltLd dog - 20/May/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 20/May/09

Lead first pitch
RFWilkie - AltLd O/S - 09/May/09 with Bec

becster - AltLd - 09/May/09 with Ralph Wilkinson

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Heather

Hidden - 2009

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Oct/08

The crux felt scary but it was just a case of grabing one jug after another and it was all over. Strung both pitches together
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Peter Murphy

Thuggy crack and layback. Used a cheeky knee jam to rest before the crux.
Rollo - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Tom

Tom Gadsden - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/08 with Roly

PilarMartinez - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Roland

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with anna barnes

Led to the crux - then set up hanging belay to get Luke up to attack the crux - reachy!!!
davenev - AltLd dog - Aug/08 with luke

Greasy crack makes crux tough. But good gear.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with davenev

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Kate

Danos - Lead - Apr/07 with Barry

timharrison - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Seb

Hidden - 17/Mar/07

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/07 with helen gibson

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - 2007

Bern - Lead O/S - 2007 with Andy Mos

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 23/Sep/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/06

andyfeds - 2nd - Jun/06 with Max S

DM
Marq - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Daniel Dennehy

Boxy - Lead - 25/Jun/05

feilx - 2005

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2005

ferdia - 2nd - 31/Oct/04 with Mike Mavrolean, Andrew Wielochowski

Outdoorfun37 - 2nd - 15/Jun/04 with Paul Chidel

9th ever lead, and first HVS, altho was VS in my guidebook at the time. Remember finding it hard.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/May/04 with Matt Baynham

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - Apr/04

five - Lead O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - Feb/01

climbtim - AltLd - Oct/00 with ghost

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Nov/99

Backed off it on lead
cem - 2nd β - 12/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman

With RW
Lepista - Lead - 29/May/99

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Mar/99

CMacD - 1999

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/98

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/98

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - Mar/97

kp64zl - AltLd - Jan/96 with James B

colin milton - Lead - 26/Aug/95

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Bean

jasper11 - 1994

sdht - 1993

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 16/Nov/91 with Joe

Roped solo using an upside-down shunt.
Nigel Coe - Lead - 13/May/87

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 10/May/87 with Jeremy Cole

Nigel Coe - Lead - 23/Nov/86 with Mike Scott

Moses - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/86

RichardMc - Lead - 22/Jun/86 with Chris Owens

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 16/Jun/82 with Tim Dunsby

turnerk - Lead O/S - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Simon Cahill, gilmourheid, Andre Clarke, tasmat, andyfeds, Hidden, jamie ward, Tom Gadsden, jl, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 157
hard E10 of 47
E10 of 47
easy E10 of 47
hard HVS3 of 47
HVS33 of 47
easy HVS8 of 47
hard VS3 of 47
VS0 of 47
easy VS0 of 47
hard 5b0 of 45
5b1 of 45
easy 5b0 of 45
hard 5a7 of 45
5a32 of 45
easy 5a3 of 45
hard 4c2 of 45
4c0 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
3 Stars8 of 65
2 Stars28 of 65
1 Star24 of 65
0 Stars5 of 65
Bag of .....0 of 65
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Style of ascent

Lead66 of 185 (35.7%)
Followed32 of 185 (17.3%)
Toproped2 of 185 (1.1%)
Alt Leads72 of 185 (38.9%)
Unknown13 of 185 (7.0%)

'Climbed'69 of 185 (37.3%)
clean O/S80 of 185 (43.2%)
clean β5 of 185 (2.7%)
clean rpt14 of 185 (7.6%)
clean RP1 of 185 (0.5%)
dogged13 of 185 (7.0%)
dnf3 of 185 (1.6%)