33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route up a gear-packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over the years and now fully merits its HVS grade.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a wall to gain the corner, which leads steeply to a ledge on the left, as for Ledgend.
2) 4a, 15m. As for Ledgend pitch two. © Rockfax

FA. P.Neame, A.Monnery 12/Feb/1967

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

nigel bassam 08/May Lead
with paul
Leelogs 07/May Lead O/S
with Sarah, Dan
mattc 18/Apr Lead β

First pitch. Re climbed after bailing the day before.

with tim
timharrison 18/Apr AltLd rpt
with mattc
Chris Sansum 17/Apr AltLd O/S

Truan P1, Chris P2. P2 is poor. Would probably be better to join another route and head for the top rather than traversing out.

with Truan Willis, Ruth White
mjeffery 13/Apr Lead O/S
with Rob
LJKing 25/Mar AltLd rpt
with Steve Melvin
tsyrett 06/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/15 Lead rpt
DavidFarrow 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Marianne Khoo
mariannekhoo 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Led it in one pitch

with Dave Farrow
AJM 12/Sep/15 2nd β
Tubs 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Good but I thought this was a gift and more like average VS. Maybe it's one that's easier for us shorties.

with AJM
Julian Prieto 12/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Pat Sollom 12/Sep/15 TR O/S

Julian took approx 15m lead fall from near top. Knocked unconcious below roof after smashing into rock face upside down. Julian suffered a mild concussion and temporary amnesia from the shock of the fall. Someone named Ian top rope belayed us out with 20 minutes sunlight left.

with Ian
DampRice 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
kenneM 22/Aug/15 AltLd

2nd pitch

with Chris
mattprince 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Jon Wilson
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb, led in 1 pitch

Monkey_Alan 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
GPN 03/Jul/15 Lead
with Annette
net 03/Jul/15 2nd

Horribly greasy and hot!

with George
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Jan.Hrb 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ales
mikespooner 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Caitlin Ripley, Robin Uren
Robs_Uren 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Caitlin 13/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 07/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with Clare Johnson, DAJ Johnson
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Jun/15 2nd
FlavioL1989 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
mishabruml 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Led P1. Got to the crux easily, placed high gear and came down for a rest. Went up and down to the tricky moves a few times, thought I couldn't do it because of the slime, but then just went for it. Scary, but once you get high feet and layback hard the holds which I thought were nasty jams become good sidepulls. Very nearly fell though and had to take quite a long breather before I built the belay!

with David Gainor
jungle 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf
with Paul Mcarthy
Hidden 10/Mar/15 Lead rpt
roberts1234567890 24/Jan/15 AltLd
with Will Moy
elliptic 24/Jan/15 AltLd
with Tom R.
Dave Mahon ??/2015 Lead
matt.jj ??/2015 2nd
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 2nd

In one pitch

hotfeet 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
andycash 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ash
mattprince 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tricky move up the lay back, good gear all the way.

with Will Graham
Norman_P_W 05/Jul/14 Lead
with Max S
Murilo Lessa 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

soft. Backup these nasty pegs!

with Hiannan
TomRiddelsdell 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

CurlyStevo 25/May/14 2nd

Quite a few moves in a row but never too hard. Good rock on the crux but often a bit damp feeling on holds you would much rather bone dry!

with Mick Ward
islandlynx 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Run out more than I wanted because I wasn't that confident placing gear whilst weighting my arms, not for lack of options. Decided to make the easy moves instead of hanging round

Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Julian Prieto 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P1

Monkey_Alan 14/May/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

brian watson 11/May/14 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 11/May/14 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd
clipskipper 04/May/14 AltLd β

All steady stuff

with Davey Boy
Peter Lovell 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


stuart34 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Gabi
leglesslizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


Martin Haworth 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Final route of the day. Quite tired and so found it tough especially the left hand start.

CurlyStevo ?/Dec/13 Lead

damp on the crux. Done as one pitch.

Hidden 24/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
will moy 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Oakley
Martin Bagshaw 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ipegg 22/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
francois 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Chawn
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Nevil 31/Aug/13 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Nevil
Nick Clement 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 24/Jul/13 AltLd
darren hudson 13/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Thought I was climbing batt crack, but realised once under the overhang it was too tough for elliot ( good excuse as I was getting pumped and climbing shite!). Had to climb back down and sacrifice a sling lower down. Damn. Big cam handy under the overhang.

with elliot ford, David Ford
WalnutHorse 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S


joedoherty 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Josh Rigby
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
jezb1 18/May/13 Lead

Bit soapy and upset the grumpy man climbing Ledgend as apparently we shouldn't have chosen a route so close to his...

Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Tightsgirl 20/Apr/13 AltLd
arose 20/Apr/13 AltLd
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Boogs 18/Nov/12 2nd β

Again John considerately lead both pitches at a good rate . Engrossing climb with some fingery holds and tricky moves in a corner below and left of second pitch belay .

Monkey_Alan 11/Nov/12 Lead RP

As 1 pitch. Finally got this one ticked!

Bob M 11/Nov/12 2nd
LaMentalist ?/Nov/12 AltLd

Nice route with solid gear , highly recommend .

Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 15/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Was a bit shagged after the last route but thought I'd be ok on a VS, but was blowin o.m.a at the top of the crack and had to hang about on the rope, getting on to the first ledge was a bugger to start with too. Much relieved to see it's now an HVS. Must get a new guide book.

with Tim Johns
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
tobydunford 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Dizz 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Hugh T
Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mattyork2 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great moves on the overhanging bridging crack on pitch 1.

with Johnny Richard
jwhp 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead second (largely non existent) pitch. Great lay back in crux

therat 04/Aug/12 Lead
Stroppy 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A great climb! Difficult but well protected crux.

with Sam Lands
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd dog
paultaylor 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

P1, did pitch 2 bare foot for fun.

will moy 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
nic42 08/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with air, stef, simon
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S

VS with one 5a move

Kirill 13/Nov/11 AltLd dog

led p1 with one fall

cem 13/Nov/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2

Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead
DOVEY ?/Nov/11 -
with Budd
Ciderslider 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

After all the psych I was surprised at how easily it went (although it was lovely and dry - no grease at all). Bomber gear and just a couple of committing moves before the pre ledge jugfest. Can't believe I've actually lead my first HVS - get in there !!!! Done as a single pitch.

Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
Fatclimber 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
mikeyjbs 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Oct/11 Lead
with Emma Grant, Chris Ridgers
Steve27 24/Sep/11 AltLd

Lead second pitch

with Paul Wilson-Roberts
Geoffers 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch

with Tim
jasonpm 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Martin Hore, Simon Chandler
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
wi11 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd
trevor macalonan 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
LukeyG ?/Jun/11 Lead
jezb1 26/Apr/11 2nd

Have lead before

uncontrollable 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

with Julian P
Julian Prieto 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

AlexD 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

grease central

with Scott
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd
clipskipper 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Well protected with a thuggy crux. Lots of safe fun.

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
risby 07/Nov/10 AltLd rpt

I led first pitch, Leon led second

leonjones 07/Nov/10 AltLd

Ris P1, Me P2. Came off at the hard bit.

Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 AltLd dog

Failed at the same point as before, but this time had strength to pull onto the ledge after a rest on the rope.

with Mark James
Andre Clarke 24/Oct/10 Lead dog

Lead first pitch. Crack thinner than it looks but holds plenty of gear.

with Tom Vaughan
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
risby 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch on blue rope after Tom had already led it on green rope while Andre belayed us both direct from the ledge end.

Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
matt.jj ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Followed first pitch which was testing but enjoyable. Personally found the crack slippery due to salt. Boring second pitch.

martin one 26/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Tim
climbtim 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
givemetea 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. hold on layback crux felt like someone had poured cooking oil over it - argh!

with Patrick
Hidden 06/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
risby 23/May/10 TR dog
with jill stevens
Monkey_Alan 23/May/10 TR

Tried leading, damp in crack near the top of P1. Tried to move up several times before getting hands to the ledge and finding... nothing. Eventually feet popped off and I fell a short distance onto a good cam. Arms too pumped to try again, so got Paul & Jill to lower a top rope.

with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Ris Wright
breed 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with Ellis Bird
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Sam Fergason
pelvoux 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

First climb of the day, brilliant!

with Priit, Mario
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 19/Aug/09 AltLd
with Sean
Perryman 19/Aug/09 AltLd dog

(1st pitch) dont like trad! but looked like a good climb with a ballsy overhung crux, where i laid loads of protection like a scared little girl!

LiLaMont 15/Aug/09 2nd O/S
jezb1 14/Jun/09 Lead

Ld both pitches. My old guide book says VS 4c, and it felt harder to me so glad the new book gives it the new grade. Really enjoyed it.

Elliot King 10/Jun/09 Lead β
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
with tomek
MarkRyder 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Lee
SGD 21/May/09 2nd

tom led in 1 pitch

with Tom Relf
Ceridwen 20/May/09 AltLd dog
Sophie Nunn 20/May/09 AltLd
RFWilkie 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Bec
becster 09/May/09 AltLd
TiffTiff 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/08 AltLd
RocknRoll 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

The crux felt scary but it was just a case of grabing one jug after another and it was all over. Strung both pitches together

with Peter Murphy
Rollo 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Thuggy crack and layback. Used a cheeky knee jam to rest before the crux.

with Tom
Tom Gadsden 30/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Roly
PilarMartinez 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Roland
dan gibson 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
davenev ?/Aug/08 AltLd dog

Led to the crux - then set up hanging belay to get Luke up to attack the crux - reachy!!!

with luke
Mr Tickle 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Greasy crack makes crux tough. But good gear.

with davenev
tebs 22/Jun/08 2nd β


with Mike
Hidden 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Bob M 05/Aug/07 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Ed Babs ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Danos ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Barry
timharrison 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Seb
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Bern ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Andy Mos
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
andyfeds ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Max S
Marq 08/Apr/06 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
Boxy 25/Jun/05 Lead
feilx ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead O/S
ferdia 31/Oct/04 2nd
with Mike Mavrolean, Andrew Wielochowski
Outdoorfun37 15/Jun/04 2nd
with Paul Chidel
Owen W-G 16/May/04 Lead O/S

9th ever lead, and first HVS, altho was VS in my guidebook at the time. Remember finding it hard.

with Matt Baynham
Richard Horn ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
five ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
climbtim ?/Oct/00 AltLd
with ghost
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Bob M 21/Nov/99 2nd dnf

Jill fell off, runner pulled, one broken ankle. Self rescue by crawl to the ab rope and prusik to the quarry, then called out coastguard.

with Jill Stevens
cem 12/Sep/99 2nd β

Backed off it on lead

Lepista 29/May/99 Lead

With RW

Bob M 07/Mar/99 2nd
with Richard Broadhead, Jill Stevens
CMacD ??/1999 -
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead dog
Bob M 22/Mar/98 2nd
with Pam Jolliffe
pezzerrr ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Jan/96 AltLd
with James B
colin milton 26/Aug/95 Lead
Geoffers ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Bean
TonyF 15/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
sdht ??/1993 -
MoWalker3 16/Nov/91 AltLd
with Joe
Nigel Coe 13/May/87 Lead

Roped solo using an upside-down shunt.

Andy Chubb 10/May/87 AltLd
with Jeremy Cole
Nigel Coe 23/Nov/86 Lead
with Mike Scott
Moses 25/Oct/86 Lead O/S
RichardMc 22/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris Owens
Nigel Coe 16/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
turnerk ??/1979 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Simon Cahill, gilmourheid, Andre Clarke, tasmat, andyfeds, Hidden, jamie ward, Tom Gadsden, jl, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 74
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set