36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route. Start just right of Ledgend Direct.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb a short wall to a ledge, then move up rightwards to enter and follow a corner to an overhang. Go right to a ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 18m. Ascend a groove and flakes, then move right and up to a ledge. Pass another ledge and a small roof on the left. © Rockfax

FA. D.Hadlum, G.Reynolds 25.3.67 25/Mar/1967

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
lawlolly 29/Sep AltLd O/S

2nd pitch lead. First pitch pumpy. First route on swanage limestone.

Hidden 28/Sep Lead rpt
MontyH 29/Aug Lead rpt
Paul Milton
Robin Woodward 21/Aug Lead O/S

Pumpy up to the roof at which point I made my classic mistake of basically climbing into the gap under the overhang, making the traverse onto the mid height belay a sketchy pain.

Guy Lowndes 21/Aug AltLd
Mark Deketelaere
stephen ashworth 08/Aug AltLd

P1 lead.

Ian hendy
mdolan 15/Jul AltLd O/S

Seconded Zack. Lead second pitch

rajeshwarbisht 04/Jul Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Robs_Uren ?/Jul AltLd dog
Hidden 30/Jun AltLd
elfka 26/Jun AltLd O/S

lead first pitch

Jon Wilson
Hidden 13/Jun Lead O/S
vicky_cairns 13/Jun 2nd
Steve954 06/Jun Lead O/S

The crux was really tough, got up and got some gear in high in the corner but could not get the past it so back down for a rest then pushed back on an got past it up to under the overhang which is tough to move out from. But finished it and happy.

Paul Archer
Robin Brooke ?/Jun Lead
Pryan ?/Jun 2nd
Joris.Roulleau 23/May Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr 2nd
elliptic 24/Jan AltLd
Tom R.
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s

Tim Freeman
Deary65 27/Dec/14 Lead

Great crack at the start. Enjoyed stepping right under overhang. Ledge a bit small. Bigger stuff to finish.

Julian Prieto 30/Nov/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2

Monkey_Alan 30/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
petrch 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Maarten Youngman
jasonpm 27/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Simon Hockin
Mike Turner 27/Sep/14 AltLd
Cheese Monkey 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Hideously greasy and wet made it feel utterly desperate. Top pitch was great fun romping up the flakes

Ian Miller 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/14 Lead
hotfeet 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
tev 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
Dave G, Viskii
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
LaMentalist 05/Sep/14 AltLd dog
rushy11111918 31/Jul/14 2nd
Paul Davis
paultaylor 28/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
Matt Roberts
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 18/Jul/14 AltLd
Paul Taylor
Sophie Nunn 05/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
TiffTiff 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

bsparky 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Kane Harris, Karl Gregory
UnkArl 05/Jul/14 AltLd
Julian Prieto 22/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led P1

cliffy 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
islandlynx 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

led p1 and 2

AmyAmy 21/Jun/14 2nd
Murilo Lessa 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Had a quick rest by the end of the roof. Was too seaty and greasy to wedge myself in the bloody crack! :p

Dave Thompson 03/Jun/14 AltLd
Mark Lee
RKirke 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
BenL 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Pero 31/May/14 AltLd

Led P2

GDS 31/May/14 2nd
Bryan M 30/May/14 AltLd
Dave Thompson 23/May/14 AltLd O/S
Steve Melvin
anthonydouglas 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2.. P1 was hard for the grade!

Joe Fraser
mattprince 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Pete Scott 04/May/14 AltLd
Big Lee 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Sustained climbing but plenty of gear. Quality route.

annak 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 16/Nov/13 AltLd rpt

improvised harness day

will moy 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Jim Oakley
sonic46 29/Sep/13 AltLd
mr random 21/Sep/13 -


Teri chan
mr random 21/Sep/13 -


Teri chan
andrea83 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Hamish P2. Enjoyed this but found quite tricky.

Hamish777 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Andrea led P1, I lead P2.

Hidden 20/Aug/13 AltLd
Matt Smith 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


Matt Cooper
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd
crossdressingrodney 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Better than both Tensor II and Tatra I think.

Hidden 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

2 good pitches. Very good stance at end of pitch 1, don't know what jurrasicparks was on about.

Ben Knudson
Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/13 2nd
joedoherty 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Josh Rigby
stonemikey 02/Jun/13 2nd
Mark Ward
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Kirill 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

CurlyStevo ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead pitch 1

matt.jj 18/May/13 Lead rpt
jackjock85 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
TommyA 11/May/13 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 11/May/13 Lead O/S
mikehenesy ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 05/Mar/13 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 26/Jan/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1. Sopping wet in the crack.

ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Leo49 ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 2nd
LJKing 30/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
Rob Marson
Monkey_Alan 07/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Kevster 30/Sep/12 2nd O/S
tonevert 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
saz_b 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, lead p2. 1st pitch corner at top was tough for grade. Belay ledge still intact, but careful gear placement and equalising needed, good work by rollo.

Rollo 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Good climbing

Stuart Johnston 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch

Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead
jcook1980 23/Aug/12 Lead
Katy Jeans
Hidden 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
MinHazeldine 14/Aug/12 2nd
AndyCook 04/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 29/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1. Not sure about jurassicsparks' comments from 25/Jul/12 - the ledge is still there and as comfortable as ever.

Piers Harley 29/Jul/12 AltLd
Paul Winder
uncontrollable 29/Jul/12 AltLd

lead p2

Alan B
Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
jurassicsparks 25/Jul/12 Lead

BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair chunk had already fallen off (Dorset has been in the news for this over the last week) as I could only just stand on it near an old peg right of the O/H. I made a couple of steps further right to see if it got any better, and the whole thing collapsed beneath me! Think this might be a one pitch route now! I hurt my foot in the fall and we were rightly spooked so didn't go back up for the gear or to see what was left of the ledge. It is possible that the traverse around the O/H is now harder than VS 4c - really depends on what is left of the ledge.

martin one 21/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Liam Ingram 19/Jul/12 Lead dog

An awful lot of loose holds at the crux. Not worth 2 stars.

catrin289 19/Jul/12 2nd dog
LozM 30/Jun/12 AltLd

lead P2

Mark J
homing-penguin 25/Jun/12 -

Seconded the glorious leader. Made a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRa6lcq1ujA&feature=plcp

Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Philippa Arding 18/Jun/12 2nd
olan oarkinson
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Stroppy 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Sam Lands
mc fifi 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 AltLd
carl_123 15/May/12 AltLd O/S
ali macphee 15/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 24/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
TimKnight 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Joemanglerocks 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Lead P1

Theeni 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Second Pitch

Matt Kemp
Geoffers 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Headjamm 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Gareth Bowen 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

Nathan Goddard, Dave Whitely
Hidden 22/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
LukeyG 20/Mar/12 Lead

In one long pitch

Hidden 11/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 11/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

paultaylor 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
will moy 21/Jan/12 AltLd
paul taylor
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Steve27 04/Dec/11 AltLd
gilmourheid 04/Dec/11 AltLd
Amy Kilpin 05/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead
SnowdonGypsy 03/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch

DOVEY ?/Nov/11 -
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
AlexD 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Oct/11 Lead

best route of the day (good 1st & 2nd pitch unlike a lot of others on guillemot ledge)

Emma Grant, Chris Ridgers
BelayBunney 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Found it quite hard for a 4c. Nice route though.

al99 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
martinazando 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Dunx 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
ASchwirtz 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch, Helen led the second pitch. I was intending to warm-up on Ledgend but Helen had done both climbs last year and mistook one for the other as the guidebook descriptions are similar, and so led me to base of Batt Crack. Never going to take route-finding advice from her again.

Helen King
jasonpm 31/Jul/11 Lead
Martin Hore, Simon Chandler
Chris Manasseh 27/Jul/11 AltLd

Led pitch 2 and top half of pitch 1 (Andy backed off it)

Andy Gee
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 2nd
Ciderslider 27/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 first climb of the day

nick hawkins 26/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
chris_B 19/Jun/11 AltLd β

me pitch1

louby 19/Jun/11 AltLd
Darron ?/Jun/11 -
Simon Cahill 22/May/11 Lead O/S
davewing 22/May/11 AltLd
matt.jj 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Lead 2nd pitch

Rhys Jones 13/May/11 Lead O/S
Jon Gupta
Leiko Miura 06/May/11 2nd
Ali Bahar
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Okecroak 28/Apr/11 AltLd
chris ebbutt 27/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
colkurtz 23/Apr/11 AltLd
djking1983 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Led both pitches

Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd rpt
lostinmidlands 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch, Tris led 2nd.

Hidden 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
benjino 06/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Mahon ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
risby 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
rd20 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

RD led P1

uncontrollable 18/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

lead first pitch, Mark lead second pitch and found an interesting finish

Mark J
Tightsgirl 12/Sep/10 2nd
DAJ, Clare Francis
riddle 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, a tough corner for the grade.

Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Jen Crook 24/Aug/10 AltLd


Hidden 24/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Ceridwen 01/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Guy Wilson 29/Jun/10 2nd
Rick Cotgreave
martin one 26/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Different Steve 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Emma Hawkins, Clio Jameson
Clee 20/Jun/10 2nd
kleinej 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Patrick P1, me P2.

WalnutHorse 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Zoomer 06/Jun/10 AltLd

Hard moves under the overhang.

Hidden 06/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Spence22 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
climbtim 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Top pitch bit loose

Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
five 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
nickdunn 06/Mar/10 2nd
tscoobydoo ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
phillip belcher
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
timmyhobby ??/2010 Lead

both pitches

DaNo123 26/Sep/09 2nd
The Ivanator 05/Sep/09 AltLd

I led P1.

Rich God 3 05/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
leonjones 24/Aug/09 AltLd

Me P1, Phil P2

Phil Barley
Dizz 09/Aug/09 AltLd

led 2nd pitch

jacobjlloyd 08/Aug/09 2nd rpt
cayteye 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Brian led pitch 1, I led pitch two but went off route slightly- probably making it harder

Brian Mead
dan gibson 02/Aug/09 Lead rpt
jacquie robinson
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Norman and Sonya
uncontrollable 25/Jul/09 Solo O/S

roped solo

Monkey_Alan 18/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

Lead 1st pitch. 1st Swanage VS.

igneouscarl 18/Jul/09 AltLd

Tom led the first and I the second. Excellent fun.

Tom Stahl
Indy Nile 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P1 Alan, P2 me

jezb1 21/Jun/09 AltLd

lead p1. not bad

strapless 13/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
John Scarrott, Natasha
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
MarkRyder 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
SGD 21/May/09 Lead

Lead in 1 pitch

Tom Relf
lyneux 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
Chris Bull
RFWilkie 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

becster 09/May/09 AltLd
northnorthnorth 03/May/09 Lead O/S

My first 'real' Swanage climb. Loved it.

Graham Westbrook ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 26/Apr/09 2nd
Jill Stevens
@ndy 27/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
RocknRoll 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt

Followed Peter up it.

Peter Murphy
Rollo 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Tom Gadsden 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Rich HJ
PilarMartinez 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 11/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 02/Aug/08 Lead rpt
anna barnes
davenev ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

take the right turn :)

mikehenesy 30/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Chris Lodge
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
jamie ward 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Testing first pitch led by Robbie very Sandy crack. Steepens towards top of crack, good in situ Cam protects move which needs to be made out right before you get to high! Excellent second pitch, exposed good gear and solid.

Robbie Smyth
JDSwain 11/May/08 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 11/May/08 AltLd

Fell off 1st ledge unexpectedly - hand slipped on crumbly hold and barndoored off. Ended up a few inches off ground thanks to bomber sling through thread! Led cleanly from ground on 2nd attempt.

MontyH 16/Apr/08 Lead

great evening's climbing.

Paul Milton
Lloyders 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Merlin 10/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
RocknRoll 18/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Ilead first pitcch, Tris lead the second

Marq 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S


Daniel Dennehy
cmsg 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Luke Gannarelli
Sophie Nunn 11/Aug/07 AltLd
cmsg 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Luke Gannarelli
dan gibson 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
clipskipper 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

First pitch a bit trickier that I'd expect for the grade

Kevin Knight
kevinknights 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Crack was a bit desperate!

Andy Chubb 17/Jun/07 Lead
Mike Hewson
jl 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
pennyb 10/Jun/07 2nd
Tom Gadsden 09/Jun/07 AltLd dog

Tom P1 Kit P2 Tough move to the belay at the fault!

Kit Gillibrand 09/Jun/07 AltLd

1st pitch - Tom 2nd pitch - Me not a pretty traverse!

Hidden 28/May/07 AltLd O/S
AJ007 28/May/07 AltLd
Different Steve 05/May/07 AltLd rpt

Led P1, an excellent pitch.

Simon Curtis
Rob84 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
MontyH 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Paul Milton
Hidden 02/Apr/07 AltLd
Norman_P_W 02/Apr/07 AltLd
Danos ?/Apr/07 2nd
eldre070 ?/Apr/07 AltLd
Paul Rigg
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
Sylvi 15/Mar/07 AltLd
timharrison 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
trevor macalonan 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Andre Clarke ??/2007 2nd
Southern Mark Smith ??/2007 -
tobydunford 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Got a bit desperate at the top of the first pitch, crack was filled with grease - nice! Enjoyable!

tobydunford 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 28/Oct/06 2nd β
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Salomon Fernandez
Hidden 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 23/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
John Inkpen
MontyH 21/Aug/06 Lead rpt
Paul Milton
Hidden 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
cem 11/Dec/05 2nd
Dorset 12/Jul/05 2nd
Neil Weymouth
Hidden 11/May/05 AltLd
Ed Babs ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Martin Hugi
timharrison 27/Jan/05 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch

feilx ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead O/S
Geoffers ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Simon, Tim
brian watson ??/2005 Lead O/S
Alaric 31/Oct/04 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Tough crack on 1st pitch although may have felt worse as was climbing barefooted.

Paul L
Haglington ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Tom Palin
Hidden 29/Jul/04 AltLd
Outdoorfun37 18/Jun/04 2nd
Paul Chidel
Owen W-G 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Roger Lau
Hidden 15/May/04 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Sep/03 AltLd
MontyH 14/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Pete had trouble at top belaying

Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Hidden 03/May/03 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
MontyH 13/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/00 -
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Lepista 21/Mar/99 Lead

Climbed with Rin

Hidden 15/Nov/98 Lead
Hidden 10/May/98 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/98 -
kp64zl ?/Nov/97 AltLd
Budge 11/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
Mike Oates
pezzerrr ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
sdht ??/1993 -
Dave Musgrove 06/Mar/88 AltLd

David led crux pitch

DDDD ??/1985 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 09/Aug/80 Lead
Saxon Ridley
Nigel Coe 20/Apr/80 -
Steve Portnoi, John Walmsley
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 2nd
Mike Morrison
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 82
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 72
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set