Rockfax Description
An elegant groove-line. Worth seeking out - one of the best of the grade at Swanage. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 28.3.98 28/Mar/1998

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

climbomaniac 27/Sep Lead O/S


badgerjockey 18/Jul Lead dog
with Rich/Kuang
john lynch 11/Jun Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
tsyrett 18/Apr TR RP
tsyrett 18/Apr Lead RP

Struggled at first due to slightly greasy conditions and poor route finding. Got it on second lead attempt after a clean ascent on top rope to figure out the moves. Definitely better friction keeping left. A great line in an awesome position makes for a great photo...

BRoe ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead O/S

Sick route,nice movement. Strange limestone,quite glassy but with dots of flint friction in it,keep an eye out for the friction on the top slab before the chains.

Pete Scott 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Laramadness 01/Aug/14 Lead dog

Poor reading lead to hold fumble and lob! Eejit!

with RF
Dan_Carroll 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
nath_casper 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gibsond 13/Aug/13 Lead dog

Went bolt to bolt to put clips in and then on red-point came off when moving up to undercut. No time to do it again.

Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 25/Jul/13 Lead RP

The greasiest day in the world! Got to the top third before slipping off a small sidepull. Nice route. 2nd go

with Jamie Hawton
Monkey_Alan 18/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd try. Went too far right on O/S attempt, cruised it second go.

with Matt Tyson
will moy 09/Jun/13 Lead RP
with paul taylor
paultaylor 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alex More 01/Jun/13 Lead
with trev
drewish 02/May/13 Lead RP

Bit gutting to pop off from wet holds first go, turns out the alternate (dry) method was easier. Superb!

Sophie Nunn 02/May/13 Lead dog
with Drew
Hidden 02/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 20/Sep/12 Lead dog

Gutted not to get OS....made all the moves up and was fairly tired so rushed the last move and came off!!!! Should know better.

IanMulvany 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Brilliant climbing, tried it last year, got it clean today, very happy.

with Daniel Keller
sparkass 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
blob737 01/Oct/11 TR O/S
with Elliot Jones, Bryce Johansen,
Chris_barr 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Bob
EmilyElouise 29/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 28/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Alex
AlexD 28/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Sophie
davewing 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Andy H
clipskipper 11/Jun/11 Lead β
with Dave Wing
andyhurford 11/Jun/11 TR dnf

Not good after lunch.

Hidden 21/May/11 TR dog
Daniel ?/May/11 Lead dog

What a beauty! Totally agree with you Ian.

with Ian Mulvany
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
al99 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 23/Apr/11 2nd dog
MontyH 09/Apr/11 TR β
with Brian, pete frost
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
IanMulvany 14/Mar/11 Lead dog

wow, wow, wow, what an amazing climb, totally blew my mind. Hard to onsight, I got caught up on the crux with a couple of options and peeled off, but it's just so fun. Really well bolted, and a great atmosphere.

with Daniel Keller
monsteratt 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Good climb, very nice position. Only just cleaned it. Getting pretty pumped at top. Did a very ungraceful knee finish onto ledge

with Jess and Guy
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
Ceridwen 15/Aug/10 TR dog
with Sophie Nunn, Heather
Ben Vieyra 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Great position above the sea at the edge of the main quarry. Quite sequency climbing for the grade. Interesting scramble back from belay ledge!

ollie1 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
davidrblakeman 26/Jun/10 Lead β
with Oli (Death Rope) Mills
trev_f 22/May/10 Lead RP

Retro onsight

with Alex M
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
LiLaMont 15/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with rache
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Ed Babs 21/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Trevor
adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
clipskipper 22/Mar/08 Lead dog

Trickier than it looks!

with Ed Babington
sadams 23/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
feilx 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
bigie bob ??/2005 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Jun/03 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
shoulders 15/Jul/00 Lead
with dai
steve taylor ??/1998 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James Yearsley, jrccrosby, Alex Bryant, tsyrett, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set