Rockfax Description
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow this rightwards past small wires and a bolt to gain the vertical crack on the right. Follow this past another bolt, to a position about 3m below a third bolt. Place a wire below this and traverse left for 3m past a small cam-slot to gain the base of a steep flake/groove. Climb this on good holds to a triangular ledge, with a bolt on the right. Move right past the bolt and head up past another bolt, crux, to gain a diagonal crack above. Head more-or-less direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route with pretty good gear compared to other E5s. All of the hardest moves are protected by fixed gear.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, slate E5's, Jacobs Half Term Goals, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
pete johnson 27/May Lead

Just beat the rain! Fell by 1st bolt. Felt like the hardest part of the climb to me. Fantastic route.

Hidden 27/May 2nd dog
jamestaylor92 16/Apr Lead O/S
with tom morgan
Ian craigie ??/2015 2nd
with Simon lake
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Alexis
shed_hed 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great route! First E5! Cherry wanted to do the top pitch of Central Sadness but I wasn't sure about leading the first pitch, so got on this instead. Felt pretty steady with good gear where it's needed and plenty of rests. Bolts protect the hard moves and it takes a surprising amount of gear in between (though it can be a little fiddly) - had to get more gear passed up a few times! That being said there is still the potential for some big (but safe) falls if you come off the easier moves. There were a couple of wobbly holds, some of which are quite large, but nothing felt loose. Well worth doing and probably a good first E5, especially if you like slabs.

Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Superb climbing with sustained interest. Would be a good first E5.

with stefan
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2014 2nd

Seconded Darren in the dark with a headtorch! Cool climbing that seems well protected in its hardest sections.

Ewan Russell 27/Oct/13 2nd O/S

amazing route! Secretly glad I didn't win the toss to lead it.

with gwen
Ed Booth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Was in a rush and Strayed onto the big surr in the middle cause I hadn't looked at topo properly. Got back on track and thought it was a good pitch.

with Will N
tim newton 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with leon
charlietorrance 27/Jun/12 2nd dog

really cool climbing fell off the foot traverse found that really hard. the rest is ok.

with callum
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd dog
willoates 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S

great consistent climbing, felt quite a bit easier than poetry pink but with more climbing.

with Iona, Lotta
JulesV 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Mason 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Wicked route, slightly more run-out than the description above suggests. A little bit of suspect rock, but on the hole a great route with brilliant flowing climbing between good rests. Sweet.

with Mikey G
david morse 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S

An awesome route up an immaculate face. First E5

with callum
Luke Brooks 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S
barni 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

could not clip 3rd bolt

Toby Dunn 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 06/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
chrisdavies ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 26/May/91 2nd O/S
with Bob Smith
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Steve Walker ??/1990 Lead
Mike Owen 05/Jun/88 -
with Rick Newcombe
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, spidermonkey09, Hidden, andyinglis, Mattlamb90, theomoore, harry_lewis, Andy Peak 1, jacob shieldhouse hadley, Adam Booth, Dan Geh, Hidden, Hidden, richiebongo, Nick Nitro, rustaldo, Hidden, Alex Mason, timo.t
High E6
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High E5
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High E4
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Votes cast 16
High 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
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