Rockfax Description
A great climb with some testing moves through the hanging groove. From a block, step right onto the wall and climb to the groove. Pull out left and head up to a roof, step right to a groove then pull up and back left above the bulge (direct is 6b+ and on the left it is 6b). Finish up the easier grooved arete above. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch, Sid Siddiqui 1994

Ticklists: Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Fraser hill-casey 25/Oct Lead O/S

Went direct over the bulge.

Tall Gecko Hands 25/Oct Lead dog

Great long route. First bolt is above a decent drop. The slab is very fun with a one-arm mantle. It gets a bit scary after that. It is a bit confusing at the second roof, but you actually have to traverse right.

MichaelConstantinou 11/Oct Lead dog
AdamBrown 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Chris O
gavinpeach 03/Sep Lead dog

Tried direct through second overhang without success. Went via normal route to top out as freezing and getting dark.

bigdrew 12/Aug Lead O/S
Chris Wright 09/Aug Lead rpt
embob 08/Aug Lead

Started up the route to the left by mistake, but back on track by the third bolt. 6b version, some nice moves but felt a bit like I was cheating going left.

with Alex
Nick Sherring 03/Aug Lead rpt

direct through the bluge, pretty tricky. Not as good overall as Apollo Creed.

psborland 03/Aug Lead O/S
with Nick
Ash Sayers ?/Aug Lead O/S
Nick1812P 09/Jul Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 09/Jul Lead O/S
with Nick
Stickle Tarn 04/Jul Lead RP
tom_lewis89 03/Jul Lead dog

Really annoyed I came off at second roof after i'd done most the hard work. Need to repeat!

Nick Sherring 27/Jun Lead dog

going direct is pretty tricky and run out. hung around too long and ran out of juice. Another bolt towards the top would be sensible as you are risking a nasty fall, otherwise a good climb!

dprctr 10/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun Lead β
Maddie 25/May Lead O/S
with Dan Hostford, Alun
Dan Hostford 25/May Lead dnf
JimboWizbo 16/May Lead dog

Hard to onsight the crux. Very windy. Edit: Turns out we were on the adjacent 6c+, that makes more sense

with Mike
AlexRenshaw 25/Apr Lead
julesmckim 25/Apr Lead O/S

Just in time before torrential downpour! Great climbing throughout

with Alex Renshaw
gavinpeach 05/Apr Lead

Tried direct through 2nd overhang at 6b+ but not successful; went right. Normal variation went without error but a massive run out on the top two bolts compared to the rest of the route.

with Scott
fifth 05/Apr Lead O/S

Gav left his draws in place, made it easier. Run out at the top

with Gav
Tommyads ??/2015 -
nickcanute ??/2015 Lead
tom.truhelka 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Getting confused with the other routes around.

andyman666999 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Doubtful for 6b reckon more like 6a. Nearly all the holds are jugs. The difficulty is figuring out where the hell the route meanders to. Not a strong line. Not a fan.

with Cathryn Johnson
DanielGyi 07/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
John Jefferies 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tim
DaveMo 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Jan
gpcomps 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew
langirl ?/Jul/14 2nd
mrteale 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MrBIond 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tom3667 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really nice route, some excellent moves on it

Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
stp 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Hardcore Pat 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Adam_42 13/Jun/14 Lead dog

Tried going right, didn't fany the run out so went direct but fell. Could do with some extra bolts methinks!

with Joey Capper, Chris Shannon
mbxcs1 13/Jun/14 Lead dnf
George.nunn1993 ?/Jun/14 Lead
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with George Nunn
Tommy Moore 12/Apr/14 TR O/S


tmawer 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 05/Oct/13 TR dog
with Tony
pie_eater_pete 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Fragmod 12/Sep/13 Lead
Somerset swede basher 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jack ULMC, Chris ULMC
Chris Redding 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jack93 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dsgarner 03/Aug/13 TR dog

1 fall at crux

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
chrisbussell 16/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Nathanie1 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 14/Jul/13 TR β
Andrew Barker 11/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Also did the direct start and finish at 6c+ (the direct start is on Ask Mr. T for Tea).

danoflynn 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Hatto, Ian Robinson
Chriswallis2 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
DaveMo 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Very pleased. Took a while on the route as sequences were hard to read and the route meanders. But climbing slow at present anyway.

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Shit route. Shit crag.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
al99 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Percy
gripped01 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Al Benson, Dave Tait
mark20 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Gallant 28/Jul/12 Lead β
Nick Allen 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Hidden 21/Jun/12 TR dog
Sam Simpson 12/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Tom Doldon 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with sam simpson 48
sopaz 10/Jun/12 2nd dog
M_W_Court 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Stuart Cartwright
Oliver Branagan 27/May/12 Lead β

Direct variant, was sure I was off. Just managed to stick a last desperation slap. Enjoyed.

with Mick R
Mick r 27/May/12 Lead dog

wrong sequence and no stamina...

with Olli
Roberto 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 11/Mar/12 Lead β

On Robin's QDs. Hard for 6b - harder than Apollo Creed - and surprisingly imposing. Don't reckon it's quite as good as Apollo either.

with Robin
robin_hackney 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
PAJames ??/2012 -
justin c ??/2012 -

desperate if you try to climb the groove on the L ... About 6c+

rob 528 ??/2012 Lead O/S
steven 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Ade
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead
thomasadixon 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
Adam Booth 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

3 stars???? Come off it. Average climb in a manky quarry.

Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead dog
drcorbasisgod 03/Jul/11 Lead
Jonathan Hall 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jane Rigby
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead dog
Laurence Everitt 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead dnf
AsleepOnBelay 10/May/11 Lead RP

Yowser. Had a bit of a mare around the third clip first time but got it clean second time round. There's a fresh scar there, has a bit come off? Went for the traverse but would like to do the direct version.

with Rich G
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead dog
smudge 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Technical climbing, really good line. Surprising quality for Harpur Hill ;o) Definitely worth a couple of stars!

Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead
Phill Mitch 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with bleggs
richardr 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Didn't enjoy the route, or the style of climbing, and couldn't feel hands. Sacked it after a bit of an epic.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead dog
R8JimBob88 04/Sep/10 Lead β

Can't really call it an onsight as I have climbed apollo creed and the two routes meet near the top. This route was the harder of the two.

with Laura
john lynch 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with ian turton
Jim Slater 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
natalie28 30/Jun/10 2nd
with Rik
Hidden 29/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 02/Jun/10 Lead dog

annoying! but still not giving up some bloke gave me beta since the O/S is blown :( only hard part for me is second roof the first roof is messy but just keep your eyes on the look out :)

Hidden 15/May/10 2nd dnf
jamesgodwin64 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf

lol went wrong way and couldnt reverse the moves :P

Diggler 17/Oct/09 Lead dog

One fall foot slipped under roof

with Andy o Boy
simon1965 18/Sep/09 Lead
Alex Winter 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
tedj234 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with David Liu
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd
Coel Hellier 05/Jul/09 Lead
thrutch 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Sarah Brookes 02/Jul/09 TR dog
Chris the Tall 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Excellant route, low crux but above it's sustained and quite an intricate line, so thanks to Matt for all the beta

with Matt B
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead
Morgan Woods 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Iain
SeanHopkins ??/2009 -
DannyK 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Climbed 6b+ varient

with Katie
Andrew Barker 23/Jun/08 Lead β
with Wormatron
Joe Dove 23/Jun/08 Lead
with paul
Sankey 11/May/08 TR O/S
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 11/May/08 Lead O/S

6b+ direct finish

with Stephen
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 TR β
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 24/Jul/07 Lead β
with dean howard
Nick Taylor 16/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Mick B 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dave & Gary
Ian Broome 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead rpt
MeMeMe 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
Stig 18/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Jonathan Teale
Tom Phillips 03/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with leo
Stig 11/Jun/06 Lead dog

Attempting the 6b+ direct

with Maciek
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Chesh ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with ScotsPaul
Dave Mason ?/Sep/05 Lead dog
with Trev Tatler
just one more 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with chris nunn, tim b, Svenn G
Hidden 07/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Dickie & co.
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Carl Smethurst 05/Sep/04 TR
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/03 Lead
goi.ashmore 10/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Tree
Duncan I ?/Jul/03 -
with Goi Ashmore
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 01/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/00 2nd
uphillnow ?/May/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/99 AltLd
D Tempest 08/Aug/99 Lead
with Rick
Roget 05/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mrduk, AshleyLong, Gary Coggon, Boulderdaz, Jack Whiteley, tom3667, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, marcduhig, jamesgodwin64, dashitboarder, AndyM-LVB, Hidden
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set