Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
M1** E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Wil E. Coyote
 
Bleep >>
35m. A fantastic route for the grade taking a strong line up the shield with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as described, in one pitch, but careful rope work will be needed to avoid drag around the roof. Any in-situ gear should not be trusted, but natural protection is plentiful. Climb the groove, strenuous, but with rests, taking care gaining the sloping ledge (possible belay). Move diagonally left to clear the roof and finish more easily up the groove, which is a touch loose. There is a park-bench belay 15m back from the edge, but it is a stretch to reach it with 50m ropes. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968 FA. Doug Scott, Claud Davies (A1 ) 1961 © ROCKFAX
FFA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Bruce Campbell-Kelly 1969. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 104 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/14 with Eve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14

Soooo annoyed, to roof easy (although most of gear falls out) then did the same as last time and went wrong way, dead end - fell off ripped cams from under roof ending up a long way down on the peg (wire in flake ripped as well - DONT USE FLAKE,VERY EXPANDING AND WILL NOT MAKE BELAYERS DAY WHEN IT COMES OFF). Much rsing to get back on route from Wyle E Coyote.
philhilo - Lead dog - 03/Jul/14 with misha

Seconded Phil as the warm up. Wasn't a warm up for him as he went too low going round the corner into the finishing groove and fell off, ripping a poor cam or two - fortunately the peg held. He pulled back onto the route but another bit of gear popped out of a dodgy flake and he ended up falling even further, ending up on Will E Coyote! Fortunately the peg held again!!! After all that excitement he managed to pull back onto the route again and finished it clean.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Phil

mike mo - 2014

Lenny - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Les

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Masa

Well protected, reasonable rests, and not particularly hard moves. The start was overgrown. Good route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Adam Booth

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Tony Payne

shark - 2nd - 19/Jun/13 with Sam Harvie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

John Postlethwaite - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with liam

Forgotten how steep and sustained High Tor is. Wasted doing the first groove and finally ran out of gas before entering the top groove. Great route.
philhilo - Lead dog - 04/Jun/13 with esther bott

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Phil

Fell of the very top on the damp and dirty holds, glad i put a pice of gear in before the top:-) still a 10m whipper:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 12/May/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/13

As one pitch.
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with pep

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Neil Furniss

migs493 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with LO

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Si

Pleased to get this clean, quite sequency, but a few OK rests.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mike Todd, Misha

A very good route, slightly spoiled by the top out on suspect rock and vertical grass. Felt hard after two days at Swanage, though this route is a bit of a slab by Swanage standards! Fortunately there are plenty of rests and the gear is good, if you have a full rack of cams up to #2. It's not all about the steepness either as there are good moves on the traverse. The belay consists of a 'dangerous cliff' sign post (seems reasonably solid) and a tree stump hidden in the undergrowth (seems reasonably solid for now), plus potentially a bench. Case for a stake once the stump weakens?
Misha - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mike T, Ed

Good route. A bit hollow at times, but generally sound.
andi turner - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with John Perry

Done in one pitch. Pegs can all be backed up. Loads of other gear by wire in the 'creaky' flake. I used the bench (15m back) to belay and it was a pain to reach with 50s.
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Lisa

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

This is well worth 3 stars. On any other crag it would be the most popular / best route. It's up there even with the classics on the main face. The old fixed pegs are all crap and the flakes at the start of the traverse do flex, but there is ample other gear which is good. The last few moves are a little loose but no worse than eg the whole of Lamplight. The rest (that one flake excepted) is very solid. Holds are all there but it does feel very committing in places.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/11

metal arms - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

tigertim - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with Tony Payne

Nice route. Another High Tor classic.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Ian Wyatt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

gazfellows - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/09 with shaun d

Phill Mitch - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with mick

Brown - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Pete

A great route, brilliant climbing, in extreme terrain. the fixed gear, is old but but not needed. Surely 3 stars if your use to trad limestone.
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Swain16

Awesome route!
JDSwain - 2nd - 24/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

First route back after tendon injury. been at curbar all morning, was hot and wet. Came to high tor with intentions of doing debauchery but it was busy, so someone recommended this route. its briliant and sustained.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with andy gravestock

best route i have ever done and its only s two star
andy gravestock - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08 with alex mason ,

alaan - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Matt

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Alan Royle

Pete Graham - Lead - 22/Apr/08 with James Fleming

Hidden - 2008

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/07

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/05 with daniel lee

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 18/May/04 with Simon Wren

1st route at High Tor
bigphil - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Toby & Eric

Obi-Wan is lost... - 2nd - 2004 with Eric

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/02

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/98 with Steven Delderfield

great route,
nickdonohue - Lead - 08/Aug/98 with Caley Latham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/98

phardman - Lead - 22/Feb/97 with Bill McKee

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/96

Billg - Lead O/S - 1996 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/94

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/94 with jon

nai - Lead O/S - 1992 with Cal

Neil R - 2nd - 17/Aug/91 with Richard W

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/91

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/91

Hidden - 1990

rob.grafton - 1990 with barry maybank

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/89

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/Jul/88

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/88

eroica64 - 2nd - 12/Apr/87 with Ray Hancock

andybirtwistle - Lead - 11/May/86 with Dennis Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/86

Derek Furze - 1986

Hidden - 26/May/85

shark - 2nd - 09/Mar/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

neilh - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/84 with simon webster

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/84 with Phill Dickens

David Smith - Lead - Aug/84 with Andy Bennett

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/83 with Alan Bennett

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/82 with Andy W

Was led to believe it was HVS.
Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/81 with Irish George

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Jun/81

Hidden - 1981

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 02/Mar/80 with Mark Brewster

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Irish George

Falko - Lead O/S - 04/May/75 with Peter Brashaw

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, RFWilkie, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 75
hard E30 of 25
E30 of 25
easy E30 of 25
hard E219 of 25
E24 of 25
easy E21 of 25
hard E10 of 25
E11 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
hard 5b20 of 26
5b6 of 26
easy 5b0 of 26
hard 5a0 of 26
5a0 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
3 Stars10 of 24
2 Stars14 of 24
1 Star0 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead55 of 104 (52.9%)
Followed30 of 104 (28.8%)
Alt Leads8 of 104 (7.7%)
Unknown11 of 104 (10.6%)

'Climbed'45 of 104 (43.3%)
clean O/S50 of 104 (48.1%)
clean β1 of 104 (1.0%)
clean rpt4 of 104 (3.8%)
dogged3 of 104 (2.9%)
dnf1 of 104 (1.0%)