M1*** E2 5b

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route for the grade taking a strong line up the shield with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as described, in one pitch, but careful rope work will be needed to avoid drag around the roof. Any in-situ gear should not be trusted, but natural protection is plentiful. Climb the groove, strenuous, but with rests, taking care gaining the sloping ledge (possible belay). Move diagonally left to clear the roof and finish more easily up the groove, which is a touch loose. There is a park-bench belay 15m back from the edge, but it is a stretch to reach it with 50m ropes. © ROCKFAX

FFA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Bruce Campbell-Kelly 1969. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

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This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Quality, pushey pumpy start, bold middle section relying on some pretty dodgy pegs, another hard bit, to a final top out which would do boulder ruckel proud. Very atmospheric.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15

Well out of shape, got pumped
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/15 with Ben Bransby

Joughton - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/15

Not too hard but exposed. Soft e2
theomoore - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with robertmctague

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15

Started leading but the head was not in it and promptly bailed. Felt hard enough on second.
Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Dan Metcalfe

Similar to Highlight insofar as it traverses round a roof. Good steep fun, reminiscent of Boulder Ruckle classics but with sound of motorbikes not waves. Satisfying route.
manwithacam - Lead - 18/Apr/15 with Joris

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/15 with Nick Conway

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/15

Hidden - 2015

Most of this is great except for the scary, loose top-out which had me totally gripped.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/14 with rachel slater

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/14 with Eve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14

Soooo annoyed, to roof easy (although most of gear falls out) then did the same as last time and went wrong way, dead end - fell off ripped cams from under roof ending up a long way down on the peg (wire in flake ripped as well - DONT USE FLAKE,VERY EXPANDING AND WILL NOT MAKE BELAYERS DAY WHEN IT COMES OFF). Much rsing to get back on route from Wyle E Coyote.
philhilo - Lead dog - 03/Jul/14 with misha

Seconded Phil as the warm up. Wasn't a warm up for him as he went too low going round the corner into the finishing groove and fell off, ripping a poor cam or two - fortunately the peg held. He pulled back onto the route but another bit of gear popped out of a dodgy flake and he ended up falling even further, ending up on Will E Coyote! Fortunately the peg held again!!! After all that excitement he managed to pull back onto the route again and finished it clean.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Phil

mike mo - 2014

Lenny - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Les

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Masa

Well protected, reasonable rests, and not particularly hard moves. The start was overgrown. Good route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Adam Booth

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Tony Payne

shark - 2nd - 19/Jun/13 with Sam Harvie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Forgotten how steep and sustained High Tor is. Wasted doing the first groove and finally ran out of gas before entering the top groove. Great route.
philhilo - Lead dog - 04/Jun/13 with esther bott

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Phil

Fell of the very top on the damp and dirty holds, glad i put a pice of gear in before the top:-) still a 10m whipper:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 12/May/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/13

As one pitch.
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with pep

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Neil Furniss

migs493 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with LO

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Si

Pleased to get this clean, quite sequency, but a few OK rests.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mike Todd, Misha

A very good route, slightly spoiled by the top out on suspect rock and vertical grass. Felt hard after two days at Swanage, though this route is a bit of a slab by Swanage standards! Fortunately there are plenty of rests and the gear is good, if you have a full rack of cams up to #2. It's not all about the steepness either as there are good moves on the traverse. The belay consists of a 'dangerous cliff' sign post (seems reasonably solid) and a tree stump hidden in the undergrowth (seems reasonably solid for now), plus potentially a bench. Case for a stake once the stump weakens?
Misha - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mike T, Ed

Good route. A bit hollow at times, but generally sound.
andi turner - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with John Perry

Done in one pitch. Pegs can all be backed up. Loads of other gear by wire in the 'creaky' flake. I used the bench (15m back) to belay and it was a pain to reach with 50s.
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Lisa

LisaA - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Andy

This is well worth 3 stars. On any other crag it would be the most popular / best route. It's up there even with the classics on the main face. The old fixed pegs are all crap and the flakes at the start of the traverse do flex, but there is ample other gear which is good. The last few moves are a little loose but no worse than eg the whole of Lamplight. The rest (that one flake excepted) is very solid. Holds are all there but it does feel very committing in places.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/11

metal arms - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

tigertim - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with Tony Payne

Nice route. Another High Tor classic.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Ian Wyatt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

gazfellows - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/09 with shaun d

Phill Mitch - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with mick

Brown - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

A great route, brilliant climbing, in extreme terrain. the fixed gear, is old but but not needed. Surely 3 stars if your use to trad limestone.
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Swain16

Awesome route!
JDSwain - 2nd - 24/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

First route back after tendon injury. been at curbar all morning, was hot and wet. Came to high tor with intentions of doing debauchery but it was busy, so someone recommended this route. its briliant and sustained.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with andy gravestock

best route i have ever done and its only s two star
andy gravestock - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08 with alex mason ,

alaan - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Matt

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Alan Royle

Pete Graham - Lead - 22/Apr/08 with James Fleming

Hidden - 2008

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/07

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/05 with daniel lee

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 18/May/04 with Simon Wren

1st route at High Tor
bigphil - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Toby & Eric

Obi-Wan is lost... - 2nd - 2004 with Eric

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/02

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 2000

Andy Edgar - 2000

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/98 with Steven Delderfield

great route,
nickdonohue - Lead - 08/Aug/98 with Caley Latham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/98

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/98

phardman - Lead - 22/Feb/97 with Bill McKee

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/96

Billg - Lead O/S - 1996 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/94

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/94 with jon

Mick King - Lead - 08/Nov/92 with Pete Hankinson

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 01/Nov/92 with Ted Lister

nai - Lead O/S - 1992 with Cal

Neil R - 2nd - 17/Aug/91 with Richard W

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/91

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 10/May/91 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - 1990

rob.grafton - 1990 with barry maybank

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/89

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/Jul/88

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/88

eroica64 - 2nd - 12/Apr/87 with Ray Hancock

andybirtwistle - Lead - 11/May/86 with Dennis Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/86

Derek Furze - 1986

Hidden - 26/May/85

shark - 2nd - 09/Mar/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

neilh - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/84 with simon webster

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/84 with Phill Dickens

First route after a spell in Alps. Feeling rather too cocky and put minimal gear on in the first part. Then decided I needed pro and rush to get something in, but only took a light rack and most didnt fit! All fine anyway.
uphillnow - Lead - Aug/84 with Andy Bennett

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/83 with Alan Bennett

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

TonyF - 1983

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/82 with Andy W

Was led to believe it was HVS.
Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/81 with Irish George

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Jun/81

Hidden - 1981

Chris Terrey - 2nd - 1981 with Mike Morrison

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 02/Mar/80 with Mark Brewster

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Irish George

D Tempest - Jan/78

Falko - Lead O/S - 04/May/75 with Peter Brashaw

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, benw681, hutchay, RFWilkie, Owen W-G

Total votes cast 92
hard E30 of 31
E30 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard E221 of 31
E27 of 31
easy E22 of 31
hard E10 of 31
E11 of 31
easy E10 of 31
hard 5c0 of 32
5c0 of 32
easy 5c1 of 32
hard 5b22 of 32
5b9 of 32
easy 5b0 of 32
hard 5a0 of 32
5a0 of 32
easy 5a0 of 32
3 Stars12 of 29
2 Stars17 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S
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Clean repeat