Rockfax Description
A fantastic route for the grade taking a strong line up the shield with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as described, in one pitch, but careful rope work will be needed to avoid drag around the roof. Any in-situ gear should not be trusted, but natural protection is plentiful. Climb the groove, strenuous, but with rests, taking care gaining the sloping ledge (possible belay). Move diagonally left to clear the roof and finish more easily up the groove, which is a touch loose. There is a park-bench belay 15m back from the edge, but it is a stretch to reach it with 50m ropes. © Rockfax

FFA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Bruce Campbell-Kelly 1969. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Brannock 15/Aug Lead O/S

Quality, pushey pumpy start, bold middle section relying on some pretty dodgy pegs, another hard bit, to a final top out which would do boulder ruckel proud. Very atmospheric.

Adam Long 21/Jul Lead O/S

Well out of shape, got pumped

with Ben Bransby
Joughton 21/Jul Lead O/S
theomoore 06/Jun Lead O/S

Not too hard but exposed. Soft e2

Hidden 30/May 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr 2nd O/S

Started leading but the head was not in it and promptly bailed. Felt hard enough on second.

manwithacam 18/Apr Lead

Similar to Highlight insofar as it traverses round a roof. Good steep fun, reminiscent of Boulder Ruckle classics but with sound of motorbikes not waves. Satisfying route.

with Joris
Stoney Boy 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Nick Conway
Hidden ?/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Rachel Slater 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Most of this is great except for the scary, loose top-out which had me totally gripped.

tim newton 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 19/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Eve
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
philhilo 03/Jul/14 Lead dog

Soooo annoyed, to roof easy (although most of gear falls out) then did the same as last time and went wrong way, dead end - fell off ripped cams from under roof ending up a long way down on the peg (wire in flake ripped as well - DONT USE FLAKE,VERY EXPANDING AND WILL NOT MAKE BELAYERS DAY WHEN IT COMES OFF). Much rsing to get back on route from Wyle E Coyote.

with misha
Misha 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Seconded Phil as the warm up. Wasn't a warm up for him as he went too low going round the corner into the finishing groove and fell off, ripping a poor cam or two - fortunately the peg held. He pulled back onto the route but another bit of gear popped out of a dodgy flake and he ended up falling even further, ending up on Will E Coyote! Fortunately the peg held again!!! After all that excitement he managed to pull back onto the route again and finished it clean.

with Phil
mike mo ??/2014 -
Lenny 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Les
Hidden 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Masa
masa-alpin 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Well protected, reasonable rests, and not particularly hard moves. The start was overgrown. Good route.

Dave Reeve 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
shark 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Sam Harvie
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
philhilo 04/Jun/13 Lead dog

Forgotten how steep and sustained High Tor is. Wasted doing the first groove and finally ran out of gas before entering the top groove. Great route.

with esther bott
Hannes B 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Phil
Andy Peak 1 12/May/13 Lead

Fell of the very top on the damp and dirty holds, glad i put a pice of gear in before the top:-) still a 10m whipper:-)

Hidden 12/May/13 2nd rpt
Haydn Jones 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

As one pitch.

with pep
Si dH 01/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
migs493 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with LO
Hidden 26/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Si
eduardo 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Pleased to get this clean, quite sequency, but a few OK rests.

with Mike Todd, Misha
Misha 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

A very good route, slightly spoiled by the top out on suspect rock and vertical grass. Felt hard after two days at Swanage, though this route is a bit of a slab by Swanage standards! Fortunately there are plenty of rests and the gear is good, if you have a full rack of cams up to #2. It's not all about the steepness either as there are good moves on the traverse. The belay consists of a 'dangerous cliff' sign post (seems reasonably solid) and a tree stump hidden in the undergrowth (seems reasonably solid for now), plus potentially a bench. Case for a stake once the stump weakens?

with Mike T, Ed
andi turner 24/Aug/11 Lead

Good route. A bit hollow at times, but generally sound.

with John Perry
bigdrew 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. Pegs can all be backed up. Loads of other gear by wire in the 'creaky' flake. I used the bench (15m back) to belay and it was a pain to reach with 50s.

with Lisa
LisaA 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Si dH 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

This is well worth 3 stars. On any other crag it would be the most popular / best route. It's up there even with the classics on the main face. The old fixed pegs are all crap and the flakes at the start of the traverse do flex, but there is ample other gear which is good. The last few moves are a little loose but no worse than eg the whole of Lamplight. The rest (that one flake excepted) is very solid. Holds are all there but it does feel very committing in places.

with Tom Lambert
Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead dnf
metal arms 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 12/Sep/10 2nd
with Tony Payne
Brian Rodgers 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice route. Another High Tor classic.

with Ian Wyatt
Hidden 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
gazfellows 15/Jun/09 2nd dog
with shaun d
Phill Mitch 05/Apr/09 2nd
with mick
Brown 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A great route, brilliant climbing, in extreme terrain. the fixed gear, is old but but not needed. Surely 3 stars if your use to trad limestone.

with Swain16
JDSwain 24/Jun/08 2nd

Awesome route!

Alex Mason 05/May/08 Lead O/S

First route back after tendon injury. been at curbar all morning, was hot and wet. Came to high tor with intentions of doing debauchery but it was busy, so someone recommended this route. its briliant and sustained.

andy gravestock 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

best route i have ever done and its only s two star

alaan 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 22/Apr/08 Lead
with James Fleming
timbanton ??/2008 -
Chris_barr ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 05/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
dominic lee 10/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
Hidden 28/Jul/04 2nd
Dave Bond 18/May/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
bigphil ??/2004 2nd O/S

1st route at High Tor

with Toby & Eric
Obi-Wan is lost... ??/2004 2nd
with Eric
Hidden 05/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/02 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/98 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 08/Aug/98 Lead

great route,

with Caley Latham
Hidden 16/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/98 2nd
phardman 22/Feb/97 Lead
ste_d 15/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 12/Jun/96 Lead
Billg ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden 16/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Roget 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Mick King 08/Nov/92 Lead
with Pete Hankinson
AlexRenshaw 01/Nov/92 Lead
with Ted Lister
nai ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Cal
Neil R 17/Aug/91 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 28/Jun/91 2nd
Rich Kirby 10/May/91 2nd
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/1990 -
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/88 2nd β
Hidden 05/May/88 Lead
eroica64 12/Apr/87 2nd
with Ray Hancock
andybirtwistle 11/May/86 Lead
with Dennis Lee
Hidden 20/Apr/86 AltLd
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
Hidden 26/May/85 -
shark 09/Mar/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
neilh 07/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with simon webster
shark 11/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
uphillnow ?/Aug/84 Lead

First route after a spell in Alps. Feeling rather too cocky and put minimal gear on in the first part. Then decided I needed pro and rush to get something in, but only took a light rack and most didnt fit! All fine anyway.

with Andy Bennett
charlesmfrench 10/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Alan Bennett
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 -
mark-abz 18/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Nic Robinson 01/Aug/81 Lead O/S

Was led to believe it was HVS.

with Irish George
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/81 AltLd
Hidden ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
Mark Kemball 02/Mar/80 AltLd
with Mark Brewster
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Irish George
D Tempest ?/Jan/78 -
Falko 04/May/75 Lead O/S
with Peter Brashaw
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Keith Swainson, deacondeacon, Hidden, benw681, hutchay, RFWilkie, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
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