Rockfax Description
8m. Crank on those classic jams up the handle-shaped crack to a trickier finish. Short but oh so sweet, and 5a for wall-rats! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950s 1955

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire "crackers dozen" crack school, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

liebs 16/Nov TR dog
RKirke 25/Oct Lead G/U

Slipped first off, quite a struggle for a VS. Need to improve my jamming.

Stroppy 25/Oct 2nd O/S
gavster 03/Oct TR
BAdhoc 22/Aug 2nd O/S

First jamming VS that I haven't fallen off!

drewish 31/Jul Lead O/S
with SteveE9
BDC 15/Jul Lead
with Alec
fulton333 19/Jun Lead
with Struggs
FlavioL1989 29/May Lead G/U

One year later, same weekend, same belayer but with more gear in the crack and better jamming skills. Happy to still have both my ankles.

Jamie Everitt 29/May 2nd dog

Had to lay back to start, couldn't get a jam hand until it was too late!

MichaelGallimore 29/May 2nd rpt

Second time lucky. Nice to put this one to bed without incident.

with Flavio
James Oakes 26/May Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May 2nd rpt
with noaks
shaunhumphreys 23/May Lead O/S

Stonkin jams but not exactly a pushover!

with Dawn
franhammond92 23/May -

stonking jams. class route

Dawn_K_B 23/May 2nd
mike8331 21/May Lead
Stoff 12/May Lead dnf

So very hard ! Yet more proof that I just can't jam !!!

with Mark L, gpcomps
gpcomps 12/May Lead dnf

I think I need some coaching on crack climbing

DanChad 10/May 2nd RP

Dad led using the gear I placed on my failed attempt at leading it. Guess I just need to get better at jamming.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 10/May Lead

Led this on Dan's gear after he couldn't get up the to the top of the crack. Not ideal style, but at least I didn't weight any gear. Felt a lot harder than Bond Street at Millstone (or pretty much any hvs 5a/b I've done recently on the Eastern Edges).

tom bre 10/May 2nd dog

Normally hate logging climbs I've fallen on seconding as they are logged as dogged, still this time with the effort that went into each try I'm just pleased to of got up! Nice climb would of liked to do it in better style!

with dan, Chris
adamre12 04/May Lead O/S

Great jamming definitely worth taping up for!

with Siwan Jones
Jake Young 19/Apr Lead O/S
with Michael Robinson
M_Robinson 19/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr Lead dog
mapperley samurai 21/Mar 2nd
quiffhanger 02/Jan Solo β

Interesting choice of warm-up by Peter...

adam 24 02/Jan Solo G/U
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
switch 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Leanne
jon22 27/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Lenny 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
thetradlad 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Megan
Rosie Henstock 06/Sep/14 2nd dog
TGreen 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Classic VS, cracking. Freeman had the worst of it mind, but I thought it was brilliant!

with Ben Freeman
Hidden 04/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead rpt
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Babika 20/Jul/14 TR

perfect jams but I managed to puff and blow a lot - as well as rest once in the middle :((

Nick Russell 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt

3/31. Went smoothly.

Alex Winter 20/Jul/14 2nd rpt

3 on Staffordshire nose

with Nick
MaccMark 02/Jul/14 Lead
with Helen Boothman
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
fatbuoybazza 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with deborah
Jonny M 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead
PeteWilson 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S


with Dave
morganator 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith, Sophie Whyte
soph 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
FlavioL1989 31/May/14 Lead dnf

I'll be back.

MichaelGallimore 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Flavio, Goodstuff
Jimbo C 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Ouch, my hands hurt after this. Harder than The File, but shorter and not quite as good (still VS 4c, of course). Still a really great route though, the quick thrutch at the top is awesome.

with Chris
Andy Chubb 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitely hard VS, if not HVS. Tough to get off the ground, but then great jams lead to a break, and getting past that to the finishing holds is not easy.

with Steve Goodman
ldadams 02/May/14 Lead β
soph 24/Apr/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
cmars89 13/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Not a VS, massively over graded just like every other route at this extremely green crag. Good protection options though for when you inevitably slip off

Kyrros 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
friendzone1234 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

lead 3 times in a row followed by solo, an excellent roue

friendzone1234 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

lead 3 times in a row followed by solo, an excellent roue

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
g1m147 16/Mar/14 2nd
Joey C 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead
Alex Winter 14/Mar/14 2nd rpt

This did no good for my hangover.

with George
georgeevans88 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 08/Mar/14 Solo O/S
luke glaister 02/Feb/14 Lead G/U

Such a fun route. Took my first trad fall on this from half height. A shame cause it was an unexpected foot slip wile placing the next cam. Gear held. So I lowered off for round 2 and got it clean. Great little route.

casey johns 02/Feb/14 Lead dnf

haha fancied this unti i got on it. seconded it and rested but enjoyed the climb

disturbed_one51 24/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
CragDog 21/Sep/13 Lead β
Sophieeee 21/Sep/13 2nd
Hannes B 02/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Climbster 01/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Another top route, put a hex in from the ground then went straight to the top break and banged in a cam, job jobbed!

with Matt
rockmaverick ?/Sep/13 2nd dog

total nightmare...couldn't find a jam

with Ian Ackerley
Lukem6 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
andybirtwistle 03/Aug/13 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
stratandrew 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Excellent Jamming crack. Taped up for this and very glad of it

with Mark Pilling
MaccMark 10/Jul/13 2nd
with Andy Stratton
galpinos 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Sam
Mike W 11/Jun/13 2nd O/S
augustus trout 11/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Stopsy 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Townley
j.townley 09/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Stops!
g1m147 28/Apr/13 Lead
with Mick.
Paul Hy 07/Apr/13 2nd
with Jack C
onlyfoddington 17/Feb/13 2nd dog

Tried it several times on lead without getting anywhere. Found it painful and strenuous to second especially when I slipped off twice.

with Adam
alooker ?/Feb/13 Lead
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
thomasaneurinsmith 14/Oct/12 2nd

What a lovely crack. Wanted to rest, but didn't.

with Stuart Reeves
stuaart 14/Oct/12 Lead dog


Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
Sam Cooke 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A fight.

with Mark Challoner
Jay C 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Matt B
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number Three of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
Adam Booth 09/Sep/12 TR RP

Jamming practice. Ground up!

Ellen Cobby 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
auld al 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
bibster1989 01/Sep/12 2nd
HIGHTOWER 05/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Tom Hansford
Hidden 04/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead dog
Neil Henson 25/Jul/12 2nd

Narrowly missed being hit in the face by a large falling cam. Cheers Mark!

with Mark Collins
Mark Collins 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

At last, I did the Crank! Not before dropping a big cam which narrowly missed my belayer, oops sorry Neil.

with Neil Henson
Nick Russell 07/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Shame it doesn't go on for longer, I was just getting into the jamming

WillDoyle 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd β
EmilyElouise 24/Jun/12 2nd dog
Alex Winter 21/May/12 2nd rpt

Never a chore.

Hidden 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 13/May/12 Lead rpt

Always a pleasure.

with Jake and Niels
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
rich_hw 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt
MaxR 12/Apr/12 2nd
with Toby
tobyk 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
LeeWithers1987 ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
mark20 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
LakesWinter 11/Mar/12 2nd

Harder than the File

with Liam, Mark R
TM_Horton 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
thefuturesmiles ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
cookacat 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

The crack contains 2 cans and a sandwich box. Fortunately, these are too far back to affect the climbing.

with huw
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Kyrros 15/Feb/12 TR
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 TR RP
MJP 20/Nov/11 TR dog
cat22 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 29/Oct/11 Solo rpt
with Jim
Jim Slater 29/Oct/11 Solo O/S

That was a scary solo.

timmyhobby 29/Oct/11 Lead
Roonix 29/Oct/11 2nd dog

Got the hang of jamming towards the end! Great fun.

kipman725 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
The Green Giant 22/Oct/11 Lead dog

Fuck me.

Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andrew hammond 22/Oct/11 2nd
with Phil Davies
phildavies84 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Dave Mason 18/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Adam Gill
TM_Horton 22/Sep/11 Lead dog

learning to jamm hurts... that is all :) mannaged to concure this beast with one rest however !!! loved it. starting to become a crack addict !

with LOTTIE, macky
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/11 2nd rpt
TerryLines 07/Aug/11 Lead
krispy_fish2000 07/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
Stevepg 06/Aug/11 TR dog
with Olly, Simon
Hidden 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Simon_Letman 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Frickin ace, its jammable all the way even with fat hands..so no need fur laybacks..

with jim
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
BeccaSnowden 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Still nails!

with Tom
JRae 23/Jul/11 2nd
with A Saul
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Solo O/S
benkelsey 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

bomber jams/gear

thomasadixon 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with Becca
Reaver2k 23/Jul/11 Lead
with JRae
Dan Geh 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

excellent jamming

tgeh 13/Jul/11 Lead dog


with dan geh
James Oswald 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Brutal but awesome. Almost fell off trying to rest at the ledge. Such a great little route

Peakpdr 29/Jun/11 2nd
with james
shafiq lalloo 24/Jun/11 2nd
rikbattye 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with shafman
minirollsrule 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S

so awesome! jam the fuk out of it!

pebbles 11/Jun/11 Lead

had to hang on jam at top of crack while getting buddy to fetch and throw large cam which I had cunningly decided i didnt need. placed and clipped cam still without incident then - argh - bloody slipped off for no apparent reason. ah well. good route, hardest at the bottom, good gear.

with andrew
Graeme Hammond 08/Jun/11 Solo O/S

perfect jams 4b?

simonward 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
peter myers 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
thrutch 10/Apr/11 Lead
with Ryan
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
highfivekrissy ?/Apr/11 2nd
amy ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
bavarianGaz 20/Mar/11 2nd dog
with DJ
A Downing 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Gaz
A Downing 20/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Gaz
Mark Dennison 20/Mar/11 Solo O/S
deejmonkey 20/Mar/11 AltLd
with Andy D
Double Knee Bar 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf

DNF Again :-@

geddicakes 19/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S


CharlieMack 11/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Got David on this, struggled but made it. Then i cruised on awesome jams. So much better this way then my original layback approach!

with David
bigie bob 30/Jan/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Climbfool_88 ??/2011 2nd β

jammed it

Hidden ??/2011 Solo
djking1983 13/Dec/10 2nd O/S
nickcanute 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with tim parkinson
Rich Kay 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Went too slow.Lowered off :{

Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf
switch 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Nickie
sam820 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Fresher
willoates 06/Oct/10 Solo β

beta from belaying steve, was expecting harder to be honest, although jamming technique could still be better

with Steve
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dnf
lukebowman551 04/Sep/10 2nd β
with henry crosby, Duncan Bourne
Spidermunkie 02/Sep/10 Solo O/S
with Alex
saalty 02/Sep/10 Lead RP
with andy, colin
ldadams 02/Sep/10 2nd
grady ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Peakpdr 15/Aug/10 -
Alex Winter 11/Aug/10 2nd rpt
rylett 11/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
Byronius Maximus 08/Aug/10 2nd dog

Pitiful effort

cem 08/Aug/10 2nd
Irn Bruce 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Spidermunkie 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S

I love lay backing!

simeclimb68 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Rob Jarratt 24/Jun/10 Lead dog

Annoyed with myself for hanging on the rope, I had done the hardest bit by then, once you reach the break it is pretty easy. Great jams. Lovely climb.

with Andy Crawley
Hidden 24/Jun/10 2nd dog
mattyork2 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Highland, Ruth Colston, Jimmy Highland
RuthC 21/Jun/10 2nd
The Bad Cough 15/May/10 2nd dog
with Christian Minett
cooper leek 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with ky
Ky 14/Apr/10 Lead dnf
with Tim
alan moore ??/2010 -

Knees seemed useful for the grovel into the wide upper crack.

Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead
david morse 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Lambros
CharlieMack 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Keith Kilcommons
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 25/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with J. Iles-Smith, C. Prescott
jiles 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Alex Winter, Chris Prescot
Hidden 25/Aug/09 2nd
victim of mathematics 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S

In no way is this 5a. It's much easier than The File, although no less awesome. If only it was several hundred metres longer!

with Alex
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S
mic_b 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd dog
Jesse Dufton 09/Aug/09 Lead
mol 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Jesse
mlmatt 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with chris jones
dan gibson 03/Jun/09 Solo rpt
nickwhimster 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with monty
monsteratt 30/May/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Abe and & Co
Mr. K 23/May/09 Lead dnf
with Bryn Wood
Peakology 08/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with cat
BeccaSnowden 08/Apr/09 Lead dog

Arrgh! Jamming cracks definitely aren't my favorite type of route but I seem to be making progress, slowly... I did actually enjoy it! 5a

Chalky Cat 08/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Great handjams surprisingly shaped to support and grate your hands at the same time, loved it. Winds at the top were a little intimidating!

with Dom
Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead
Theeni ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
leepip 22/Feb/09 Lead dog
with al mason
Alex Winter 16/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 16/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Sidekick ??/2009 Lead O/S
gradbachmark 29/Nov/08 2nd

better than the last attempt :)

with peakphil
Hidden ?/Oct/08 TR O/S
jcurley 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Karlos 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Ben
gb83 25/Aug/08 2nd rpt

love this climb. get the right foot jamming and you're laughing

with masa
masa-alpin 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

What a route!! Short but superb! I didn't take a rest, but to be fair, the rope was often tight, so it wasn't very fair to claim an onsight.

OffshoreAndy 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with New Mills Duncan
Jesse Dufton 21/Jul/08 Lead
gradbachmark 16/Jun/08 2nd dog
with peakphil
Rob Davies ?/Jan/08 2nd
with Phil Ashton
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
bobpilgrem 02/Oct/07 TR

Found it hardest to start- but once established jammed smartly up-jamming a toe in crack takes some of the weight(pain)of the jams.

with Bob/Nic
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
simoncov 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Simon Chetwynd
Jon Read 03/Sep/07 Solo rpt
tonanf 02/Sep/07 2nd
with burt
gb83 31/Jul/07 Lead dog

fell a good few times at the lower section trying to jam it, gave up and laybacked it. jammed the final 2/3rds. great line

chriscopps 31/Jul/07 2nd
Peakphil 18/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Laybacked it in style all the way up the vertical crack...then lost all style doing the top section, not sure there is an elegant way to do it though!! Get this route done, its fantastic.

Pythonist 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Hidden ??/2007 Solo
deklan ??/2007 Lead
Tom Last 01/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Cordelia Molloy
Si dH 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Steve Banham 21/Nov/06 Lead RP

Hard when you can't jam

Howard J 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Stig 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Budge 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ludovic Laurioux
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
adam carless 30/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Full on gritstone jamming, a classic.

Rampikino 30/Jun/06 Lead
with Cat
FrankW 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Iain H
Coel Hellier 04/Jun/06 Lead
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
Alex Mason 05/Mar/06 Lead O/S

awesome clean cut hand jamming crack, similar to higgar tor the file but better

with R simpson and J berry
Hidden ??/2006 -
jackiechimp ??/2006 2nd dog
Andrew Abraham ?/Jun/05 Lead dog

Took one fall, losing a lot of skin to the crack

Chris Davids 02/Apr/05 2nd RP
with Reuben
Hidden ??/2005 -
Dave Bond 09/Dec/04 Solo
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Wilson
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead
TobyA 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dunc
r0b 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Andy Smith
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 02/Oct/03 Lead

Amazing route- should be done by all who pass.

Hidden ??/2003 -
Jon Read ?/Aug/01 -
Chris Ellis 13/May/01 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead O/S
kato'sdad 24/Feb/01 2nd
RobSimmo 24/Feb/01 Lead
Gus ??/2001 Lead
Boy ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Soldier Chris
Jim Brooke 09/May/99 2nd RP
with Rich
petekeron ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/97 Lead
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 30/May/95 Lead O/S
D Tempest 13/Jul/94 2nd
with Rick
Gordon Stainforth 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S

Stephen needed quite a tight rope to second it ... :)

with Stephen Venables
Hidden 24/Jun/92 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jun/92 2nd
Hidden ??/1992 Lead RP
Roget 11/Sep/91 Solo O/S
Peakology ??/1990 Lead O/S

Mod led- perfect jams.

with dom
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
tlr 29/Dec/89 TR
with Fin
Tim Bateman 18/Apr/85 2nd
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/82 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
mikej 18/Apr/81 Lead
with Bob Lewis, Mike Mason
GeoffG 30/Jul/75 Solo
rogerskews ??/1974 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DBoothroyd, hthom, Hidden, leoch01, nesbear, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Stopsy, althesin, PeteWilson, Hidden, Hidden, AsleepOnBelay, AndyM-LVB, MattT88, simoncov
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 79
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set